Esquire的October 2017目录

This month, we’re catching up with select members—from the fashion set to the f itness world—to f ind out what def ines their sense of style. GREGORY TINARI @menstyleguide “I try to bring a creative approach to my personal style—and I get inspired by what’s happening in menswear season to season.” TOMMY LEI @mybelonging “My sense of style is defined by my love of global travel—from high-fashion menswear to five-star hotels, I’m drawn to the details.” JOSEY GREENWELL @joseygreenwell “My number one rule for both my style and fitness is to keep it simple: back to basics.” + MORE / GO TO ESQUIRE.COM/COLLECTIVE…

A Cultural Guide to Just Enough of Everything There’s a startling moment in the 2014 black comedy Calvary in which Domhnall Gleeson, as a chillingly unrepentant murderer—a cannibal, no less— almost steals the film from his own father, the nevernot- magnificent Brendan Gleeson, in the lead role as a rural Irish priest. To be honest, I don’t know how he does it—he’s onscreen for only three minutes. But that’s what the great character actors do. Instead of playing uncomplicated, straight-shooting heroes, they take on the more nuanced, more ambiguous, weirder roles: the outsiders, the failures, the troubled souls. They leave the Everymen to the mainstream movie stars, with their perfect teeth and rippling biceps and year-round tans. Apart from the fair skin and coppery hair, father and son don’t look…

• • • Don’t look now, but the hottest ticket in Las Vegas isn’t Blue Man Group. It’s the Vegas Golden Knights, the NHL’s newest expansion team and Sin City’s first pro sports franchise. What took so long? In a word, gambling. All four major leagues have long been against starting a franchise in Nevada, where it’s legal to bet on the home team. But the stigma is fading because of leaders like NBA commissioner Adam Silver, who called for legalizing and regulating sports betting in a 2014 New York Times op-ed. Not only did the NHL break through, but Golden Knights owner Bill Foley says the team’s ticket revenue has already topped that of the Stanley Cup–winning Pittsburgh Penguins, and the Raiders are moving there in 2020. Will Vegas…

The Relive Box By T. C. Boyle Boyle’s latest collection features nostalgia machines, genetically modified pets, and an ass-kicking Jesus going Old Testament on ISIS. Ecco, $26 —Adrienne Westenfeld Complete Stories By Kurt Vonnegut From a giant of 20th-century American literature comes 97 stories—five of them previously unpublished— written over 66 years, compiled in a single volume for the first time. Seven Stories, $45 —A. W. True Gentlemen By John Hechinger A deeply reported (and disturbing) exposé of the fatal hazing, misogyny, and racism plaguing America’s broken fraternity system—and its lobbying arm, FratPAC. PublicAffairs, $28 —A. W. Leonardo da Vinci By Walter Isaacson The best-selling biographer of Steve Jobs and Albert Einstein takes you inside the mind of the original Renaissance man—a lateral thinker who saw no reason to choose…

“LIAM’S PRETTY STYLISH, ACTUALLY. FOR A WHILE THERE, I OCCASIONALLY WOULD STEAL WHAT HE WAS ROCKING.” CHRIS HEMSWORTH 34, Byron Bay, Australia The new face of Boss Bottled Tonic (and the superhuman muscle behind Thor: Ragnarok) talks OFF-DUTY DRESSING, stealing clothes from HIS LITTLE BROTHER, and the AUSSIE STYLE trend he hopes will stay Down Under Keep it classic: I tend to wear more earth tones. I don’t go too outrageous with my colors. I pushed it today—you caught me outside the box. [Hemsworth is wearing black.] If I’m at home, the way I dress is purely practical: board shorts and a T-shirt. If I’m going to an event, like everyone, I love a great tailored suit. There’s a certain excitement there because I don’t wear a suit every day. Supersize…

• • • How do you slow down fashion’s bullet-train pace? Try enlisting the help of an old-school shoe company. High-end Italian brand Santoni (maker of the cap-toe derbies shown here) is getting into the clothing game with the launch of Santoni Edited—a capsule collection full of pieces that (get this!) you won’t need to toss a year from now. To develop the line, Santoni brought on designer Marco Zanini, who cut his teeth reviving women’s labels Schiaparelli and Halston. He’s created garments that fit the Platonic ideal for their category. Imagine the perfect pea coat, bomber jacket, and crewneck sweater. You’ll find them here in luxe materials like silk, shearling, and cashmere. Most important, these clothes don’t have the short shelf life that comes with shoddy construction or too-trendy…

Even a surf icon, fitness model, and Most Beautiful Person Alive like Laird Hamilton has to put in extra effort once he hits the half-century mark. And while he trains just as hard as you’d expect, he’s got some pretty out-there health hacks. (Did you know that your water may be broken?) In advance of Take Every Wave, the documentary about Hamilton’s life out this month, the waterman tells us that sometimes the whole point is to take a few grains of salt. I normally train six days a week; the day of rest is the most difficult. Monday, Wednesday, Friday is land-based training. The other days, I’m in the water. That diversity keeps the body guessing, and you avoid boredom. Diversity counts in nutrition, too. Being raised in Hawaii,…

I keep cash in a black binder clip. I like to keep it for tipping. In my wallet, I’ve got credit cards, an insurance card, a couple business cards, and a blank check. When I was twelve, I started caddying at a local golf course on Long Island. I’d get six dollars a bag. That’s when I got interested in the market because everyone at the golf course was talking about stocks. There’s never been a period in my lifetime—this was the mid-’60s—when more people were talking about stocks; you’d go to the barber and they would tell you about their stocks. I took my caddying money and I put it in the only stock I had heard of that was selling for less than five dollars a share—that was…

Scribner’s Catskill Lodge This 1960s Catskills motor lodge in Hunter, New York, has the kind of custom-made furniture that may prompt you to ask, “How much?” When you’re ready to hit the trails, the lodge’s mountain concierge can help, or even guide your group. Timber Cove This stylish, newly renovated 1960s A-frame resort sits on a cliff in the town of Jenner in Sonoma County, overlooking the Pacific. It has a light-filled bar you could drink entirely too much California wine at. After the buzz, head to Gerstle Cove and hike up Stump Beach along the rocky coastline. Anvil Hotel Yes, Jackson Hole, Wyoming, is synonymous with insane powder dumps, but in warmer months you can hike the preposterously beautiful Grand Teton National Park (shown above). Rooms have rain showers…

1 CAR FOR THE FAMILY, 1 CAR FOR YOU Car-guy question: What is the perfect pair of new cars? No budget, but you do need one practical ride. Pick 1: the Porsche Panamera Turbo Sport Turismo (aka the Porsche station wagon), because nothing combines utility, speed, agility, and style better. Costco by day, clubbing by night. Pick 2: the Audi R8 Spyder. It’s the most dignified trophy roadster out there today. Maybe it’s the Bauhaus design, or the melodious V-10, but it brings joy to onlookers rather than class rage. So you won’t feel like that guy in the $178,000 sports car. For more of our favorite cars of the year, head to page 65. A BRIEF MONTHLY EXPANSION ON A TOPIC EXPLORED ELSEWHERE IN THE ISSUE (SEE PAGE 114)…

Steel yourself for a harrowing truth: White is now the most popular car color in America. Seem innocuous? Therein lies the problem. We’re living in a golden age of motoring, a time when cars are faster and more luxurious than ever before. Painting them the same color as raw tofu just seems . . . wrong. The quiet resurgence of brown, however, feels very right. Consider this a throwback to the 1970s, when fashion houses, interior designers, and, yes, automakers shifted to earth tones. Back then, Lincoln and Cadillac slathered their land yachts in assorted siennas; at one point, Chrysler’s catalog offered more than 20 shades of bronze, beige, and bister. Today, you’ll find autumnal looks on the runway from the likes of Bottega Veneta, Cerruti 1881, and Orley. San…

Two years ago, Gucci creative director Alessandro Michele ushered in a new, hypermaximalist era—louche silk shirts, tapestry-like topcoats, and embroidery everywhere. These days, everyone from Idris Elba to Harry Styles marches in the Gucci Army, and looks better for doing it. Does every man need a paisley cape? Uh, no. Could we all stand to bring a little more wit to our style? Absolutely. That’s where this briefcase comes in. Its bones are old-school Gucci: substantial, structured, with a trademark bamboo handle that dates back to 1947. That bewinged, Bengal-striped freeloader? He’s the fun part. The bag lets you channel that Gucci magic without going full Fauntleroy—take the embroidery, hold the silk and satin. If nothing else, Tony here should get you psyched for your next business meeting.…

Sometimes the boldest trends can trace their origins back to clothing that was literally standard-issue. So it is with the humble duffle coat. It became part of a Royal Navy seaman’s uniform in the 1890s. Made of sturdy double-faced wool, it featured a distinctive roomy hood (to accommodate naval caps) and toggle-andcord closures (easy to operate, even with gloves). After World War II, a tidal wave of duffles hit the UK surplus market. Impoverished undergrads snapped them up for cheap and wore them to coffeehouses, wine bars, and jazz clubs, making them an instant signifier of postwar countercultural hip. They’ve waffled in and out of style ever since, always with a slightly rebellious attitude (thanks, beatniks) until this season, when a newer, edgier duffle hit runways. Brands like Valentino, Sacai,…

It first hit us in February, when Chance the Rapper took home the Grammys for Best New Artist and Best Rap Album while kitted out in a Thom Browne suit and his trademark hat. We started wondering, What’s the trick to wearing a baseball cap and looking—if not as cool as Chance—at least like an adult? It may be easier than you think. Start by aiming as far away from the frat hat as possible. No distressed, overly bent brims; no sun-faded pastels. Instead, look for rich materials like wool, corduroy, and sturdy twill in fall-friendly colors like copper and burgundy. If you need text or a logo, keep it simple. (A team emblem? Okay. Trucker-hat innuendo? Not okay since 2006.) A little embellishment can go a long way: Chance…

If there’s someone funnier than Kristen Wiig, I want to meet that person. She’s a remarkably gifted writer and performer as well as a trailblazer—not just for women in Hollywood but as a role model for people of all genders. She cowrote and starred in the smash hit Bridesmaids. She was my favorite cast member on Saturday Night Live, and my kids are fans of her voice-over work in Despicable Me 3. She appears in Darren Aronofsky’s latest film, mother!; stars in Downsizing (directed by Alexander Payne) later this year; and was kind enough to chat with me on a Sunday morning while filming next year’s Where’d You Go, Bernadette. Adam Grant: I’m trying a new conference line that automatically records the call. It looks like you got here first…

1–10 Asahd Khaled Bon Vivant age: 1 Asahd Khaled came into this world last October with about six million people watching. His father, hip-hop hitmaker and Snapchat god DJ Khaled, broadcast his son’s arrival over the app despite the protests of the parent doing all the pushing: Asahd’s mother and social-media manager, Nicole Tuck. Yes, this baby has a social-media manager. Eight months later, Asahd was featured in his own Cartier bracelet and custom chains on the cover of his father’s latest album, Grateful. He’s accumulated more than a million Instagram followers, sat in on meetings with the likes of Nas and Rihanna, and acquired a Ferrari-branded walker that he cruises around the living room. He’s also been a social-media star since birth, a fact his mother takes in stride.…

WHAT HE NEEDED TO DO FROM NOW ON, IF THERE WAS GOING TO BE A NOW ON, WAS ABANDON HIS MORBID QUEST FOR ORDER, AND TREAT HIMSELF TO A LITTLE CHAOS.” –“The Night Manager,” by John le Carré EVERY MAN HAS HIS PERSONAL DEVIL WAITING FOR HIM SOMEWHERE.” –John le Carré…

Cynics will say that Nashville has become a lightning rod for tacky bachelorette parties. But if you know how to do Music City right, it’s also one of the most incredibly fun cities to eat and drink your way through right now. In Germantown alone, you’ll find southern-minded wood-fire pizza (City House), brisket tacos and fresh guac that should be from Texas (Butchertown Hall), and ridiculously delicious oysters served at a fourteen-seat marble bar (Henrietta Red [2]). Know that consuming Hot Chicken will be absolutely necessary at some point, and that means taking a trip to either Prince’s or Hattie B’s. Where you drop your bags depends on your priorities. The Thompson hotel [3] just opened in the Gulch last year, right across from Biscuit Love, where, yes, hangovers go…

At a little after 6:30, nearly every weekday morning, George Osborne—forty-six years old, tall, rich, boyish, tieless; for six years the chancellor of the exchequer and the second-most-powerful person in the British government; until recently a live contender to become prime minister, and someone who may still indulge that ambition— takes the bus from Notting Hill in West London, where he lives, to Kensington High Street, where he works, orders a healthy breakfast to go, arrives at the marbled and airy headquarters of the London Evening Standard, rides the elevator to the second floor, enters his corner office, and sets about destroying his political enemies Osborne assumed the editorship of the Standard in May of this year. The newspaper is one of Britain’s oldest surviving titles. It was first published…

Before I get to the point, I’d like to defer to a passage from The Moviegoer, the great Walker Percy novel about Binx Bolling, a twenty-nine-year-old New Orleans stockbroker who gives the Heisman to a chronic case of existential ennui by chasing women and going to the movie theater. Binx is an otherwise solitary guy, except for the evening here or there he spends with his landlady, Mrs. Schexnaydre. At one point in the book, he tells us it’s been eight years since he last had friends—“an ex-Lieutenant like me, a University of Cal man, a skinny impoverished fellow who liked poetry and roaming around the countryside” and “a mad eccentric from Valdosta, a regular young Burl Ives with beard and guitar.” Binx went on what appears to have been…

First, the obvious: He’s huge. Football huge. LeBron James huge. Aaron Judge looks like he is from the future—six-foot-seven, 282 pounds of sculpted muscle. Guys this big aren’t supposed to be great at baseball, but thanks to an obscene first-half slash line of .329/.448/.691, the 25-year-old from Linden, California, is fast becoming a legend. By the middle of the summer, his debut jersey sold for $160,644 at auction, the highest amount paid for any jersey in the four major sports over the past 15 years. The Yankees, a stardriven franchise bereft of marquee names since Derek Jeter and Alex Rodriguez retired, wasted no time in designating a portion of right field as “the Judge’s Chambers,” with select fans donning the traditional black robes of jurisprudence. Few saw this coming, including,…

“What brings you in tonight?” Brian and Mark Canlis had some questions about that question. It was a Tuesday evening in Seattle, and customers were minutes away from coming through the front door for dinner at Canlis, a 67-year-old restaurant that overlooks Lake Union like a sleek black opera house designed by Alfred Hitchcock. As sunlight, filtered through pine and cedar branches, poured cinematically into the giant windows, the two brothers gathered their service team in a circle. They wanted to pick apart a little hospitality tic that seems gracious on the surface but can quickly curdle into an annoyance (or even an unintentional insult) if servers aren’t careful. They offered up a scenario: A woman has taken her seat. A server asks her, “What brings you in tonight?” She…

Choosing a watchcase used to be simple. If you were rich, you went with gold or rose gold. If you were stupid rich, you picked platinum. For the rest of us, it was go steel or go home. But watchmakers have since discovered that there are possibilities beyond mere metal. Materials science is now at the forefront of watch innovation, and proprietary substances like Breitlight are leading the charge. Technically a plastic (albeit a plastic strengthened with composite fibers), the polymer is scratchresistant, anti-magnetic, and anti-allergenic. It’s also tougher than steel and six times as light. All of which makes this substantial 50mm timepiece feel like it’s floating on your wrist.…

While traveling for business, don’t let your wardrobe get away from you. Staying classic is always a safe bet, so avoid fads and go for a time-honored look. For work travel, I like to keep it lean and versatile: a navy double-breasted suit, a light button-up, a denim button-up, two ties—one knit, one striped— and a patterned blazer I can pair with my suit pants for cocktail events. I always pack two pair of shoes as well: a double monk strap and a loafer. “ WHEN TRAVELING, ESPECIALLY FOR BUSINESS, YOU NEED A VERSATILE SHOE. LOOK FOR ONE THAT WILL LOOK GOOD BOTH ON AND OFF DUTY.” - BRIAN SACAWA FOUNDER, HE SPOKE STYLE FOOTWEAR IS A GREAT WAY TO STAND OUT, ESPECIALLY WITH A CLASSIC SUITED LOOK. THE STACY ADAMS…

Sometimes you want it loud. Sex, concerts, serious cars, and certain movies— the better these things are, the more they leave your ears ringing at the end. You know it’s over with a woman, Harry Crews wrote, when before sex you daintily get undressed on opposite sides of the bed. (“If it’s love, there’s supposed to be some licking and sucking going on.”) A better definition of when things are wilting, sexually, involves acoustics: There’s no longer any screaming. Music especially needs volume to matter. As with Spi¨nal Tap and Elon Musk’s Teslas, you want to be able to turn it up to eleven. This is one argument for rural living; your twenty-ton thumping won’t rattle anyone’s kitchen except your own. Police should be willing to waive speeding tickets if…

IT’S tempting to see Robert Redford as the golden boy. The guy who never had to sweat for it. The guy who got what he got because it was handed to him, because of his looks. The guy who, as the writer James Salter said of Redford at age forty, after he had carved out his extraordinary success, had the aura of a charmed life: “As if glancing at a menu, he was able to choose his life.” The reality of Redford’s life, like the reality of anyone’s, is much more complex. The son of a milkman, he grew up in Santa Monica, California. He loved to play baseball and was offered an athletic scholarship to the University of Colorado, but at the end of his freshman year, just after his…