delicious的May 2018目录

WHAT CONSTITUTES A baking revolution? Colin Fassnidge’s version of one-tray roast beef, or Matt Moran’s beef and speck cottage pie? Perhaps a date and chestnut cake with pomegranate butterscotch, served at super-stylist Sibella Court’s Friday soirée? Maybe the roasted white chocolate fudge cake with tahini cream from Hartsyard’s Gregory Llewellyn? Intrigued? You should be: so many of the ideas in this issue dedicated to baking are the product of kitchen revolutionaries. When it comes to baking, much has certainly changed, yet so much defers to tradition. Let’s call this latest movement ‘Baking 2.0’. The new wave of Australian bakers, chefs and cooks is reviving classics using modern flavours, techniques and ingredients that are very of-the-moment. Breadmaking is back; ‘starters’ are the new kombucha; and bakers are solving the world’s problems…

BARBECUED RADICCHIO WITH SAUERKRAUT AND PROVOLONE SERVES 4 AS A SIDE 1 radicchio 1/4 red cabbage, very thinly sliced (we used a mandoline) 150g sauerkraut 1 tbs each extra virgin olive oil and verjuice Juice of 1 lemon Shaved provolone, to serve SOUR CREAM & MUSTARD DRESSING 1/4 cup (60g) sour cream 1 tbs buttermilk 1/2 small garlic clove, finely grated 2 tbs Greek yoghurt 1 tsp red wine vinegar 2 tsp wholegrain mustard Juice of1/2 a lemon For the dressing, whisk all ingredients with1/2 tsp salt flakes and1/4 tsp ground black pepper in a bowl until combined. Heat a barbecue or chargrill pan to high heat. Grill radicchio whole for 2 minutes each side or until grill marks appear. When cool enough to handle, tear and separate radicchio leaves,…

ON A RECENT holiday, I travelled to Marrakesh in Morocco, a place I’d always wanted to visit. I’ll admit I had a certain perception of Marrakesh – that it might have lost its old city charm. But as I made my way to my riad , a traditional Moroccan house or palace with an internal garden, in the old medina, my fears were allayed. Outside the four walls of the medina were massive resorts and paved roads; inside were narrow cobblestoned streets on which cars and motorbikes zoomed past. It was organised chaos, and I found it exhilarating. The old medina is filled with dark alleyways leading to more dark alleyways, all filled with shops selling everything from spices to handcrafted items to teapots to tagines to leather goods. Among…

EVEN AS A YOUNGSTER , mince, for me, was always all about the flavour. You’re using a secondary cut, which means more muscle. And the more the muscle works, the more flavour it develops. You mince blade or brisket or those sorts of cuts and you’re getting that beautiful intensity. And mince is such a versatile ingredient; so good in so many dishes. You can mix a couple of different minces together – the pork and veal in the ragu, say – to make the most of the wonderful taste of the veal and the fattiness of the pork. Then there’s the cottage pie. I was brought up on that sort of stuff – it’s a good old Aussie tradition with lamb mince. Together with the potato topping, it’s just…

OVER TIME, IN and out of restaurant and editorial test kitchens, I’ve cultivated my own cooking style, which is hard to classify. I wouldn’t call it lazy – I prefer the term ‘lo-fi’ – but to give you some insight into my life as a home cook, I don’t own a blender, and up until a few months ago, I didn’t own a food processor (my love for good breadcrumbs finally broke my resolve). The recipes in this book follow my general approach, in that I would never ask you to toast nine different hard-to-locate spices on a Monday after work, and I’d never suggest you make something that takes two hours if there were a simpler and equally delicious way to do it in one. I’ve been calling these…

COCONUT ALMOND CAKE WITH HONEY-GLAZED PLUMS SERVES 8 3/4 cup (150g) solid coconut oil (should be similar consistency to soft butter) 3/4 cup (105g) coconut sugar 3 eggs 1/2 cup (125ml) coconut milk 1 tsp vanilla essence 1 cup (100g) almond meal 1/2 cup (45g) desiccated coconut 1/2 cup (55g) White Wings Coconut Flour 2 tsp gluten-free baking powder 2 tbs honey 4 small ripe plums, halved, stones removed 3/4 cup (200g) coconut yoghurt (substitute thick natural yoghurt) beaters until combined. Add eggs, 1 at a time, beating well between each addition. Add coconut milk and vanilla essence, and beat until an even consistency. In a separate bowl, mix together almond meal, desiccated coconut, coconut flour and baking powder. Add dry ingredients to wet ingredients and mix well. Pour batter…

“WE WERE ALONE ON OUR GAME DRIVES, INCLUDING ONE WHERE WE FOLLOWED A PACK OF YOUNG MALE CHEETAHS.” HAVING BECOME ADDICTED to safaris, I was privileged recently to travel through Kenya – considered the safari capital of the world – to experience two different adventures. Kenya is unique in its diversity, and home to some of the world’s most ancient and endangered species. Its myriad landscapes encompass beaches, mountains, desert and savannah. It’s like looking into the heart of Africa. Our Kenyan expedition began in the Maasai Mara after crossing from the Serengeti in Tanzania, following the annual animal migration. As we swooped down from the sky in our little Safarilink Cessna air taxi, a lone Maasai warrior waited under the solitary tree on an expansive plain – by far…

SWEET OR SAVOURY? A bit of both. I am a sucker for fruit crumbles and flans, but will often serve cheese, too. At the moment I’m loving La Luna goat’s cheese by Holy Goat in central Victoria. It’s hard to find, but heavenly. DRINKS ORDER My go-to aperitifs include Lillet Blanc, the aromatised French wine, served on ice. I also love a classic Manhattan. After dinner, I usually serve guests Mr Black, an Australian cold brew coffee liqueur. People rave about it. CHOCOLATE KISSES I’m a big fan of dark chocolate, especially Lindt’s raspberry flavours. I also adore baking Toll House chocolate chip cookies, the original American style. TEA, COFFEE OR MATCHA I’m a New Yorker, so most certainly prefer a ‘cawfee’. I used to drink American coffee, but living…

#MAKEITDELICIOUS MARCH’S MOST-LIKED POST 5394 Likes, 237 comments PSA: Easter’s just a week away… We’ve firmly got our eyes on this double-chocolate mousse cake by @phoeberosewood (Wicked, April 18, p 118). @markroperphotography @kirstenljenkins MIKE’S THE MAN: How true are Mike Bennie’s words (Drinks, March 18, p 32). Since reading his article I have bought four of his recommendations and intend on doing so in future, too. Time saved reading labels in store, money saved on wines I have not enjoyed. Win, win. Cheers, Mike! Kate Fitzsimons ABU DHABI DO: Having had a recent short holiday in Abu Dhabi and gone to a few of your ‘must-visit food stops’ (Global Flavours, March 18), I was inspired to come home and make Palestinian lady cheeks (p 128). Wow! What a knockout recipe.…

OVER THE PAST decade, we have seen the concept of dessert dramatically change, eschewing tradition for a course where chefs can flirt with different textures and flavours. Dan Hunter served us parsnip mousse at Brae, while Jo Barrett (Oakridge) and Analiese Gregory (Franklin) thrilled us with silky potato-skin cream and salted-caramel potato tart, respectively. Thus, with a sweet finish no longer dominating diners’ psyches, we have moved into the next-gen of dessert. This has given rise to an era of Asian-inflected ingredients that add a new flavour dimension, making dessert an anytime occasion. You’ll have seen matcha, the herbaceous, umami powdered green tea, in everything from Cho Cho San’s soft-serve cones to croissants at Melbourne’s LuxBite (where kaya – Malaysian coconut jam – and citrussy yuzu also star) and Gontran…

ENFIELD WINE CO. PRETTY HORSES RED BLEND 2016, $68 A succulent red with grace and a lovely, seamless flow. This style has a good dash of peppery spice and herbal character that’s sprinkled over juicy, dark berry fruits. It’s beautiful drinking. SANDHI SANTA RITA HILLS PINOT NOIR 2013, $75 Sandhi is the work of two wine industry professionals who were determined to elevate the offering of fine, fine-boned pinot noir from California. This is fragrant, silky, beautiful wine. Find some confit duck, ASAP. MATTHIASSON RIBOLLA GIALLA MATTHIASSON VINEYARD 2013, $113 Ribolla gialla is a white grape from Friuli in Italy, though it now finds a home on the Matthiasson estate, among other Californian vineyards. This example is wildly perfumed, crunchy, deeply flavoured and utterly compelling. LIEU DIT CHENIN BLANC 2016,…

“As the weather cools, I look for hearty, seasonal vegetable dishes that are nourishing, but also a little indulgent. The result? Golden, bubbling bakes that can hit the mark for meat-free Monday, or as dishes to linger over on the weekend.” Phoebe Wood, Food Director @phoeberosewood CAULI CHEESE PASTA BAKE WITH CRISPY SAGE SERVES 6 250g shell pasta 100g unsalted butter 2 bay leaves 1 onion, finely chopped (we used Woolworths Macro) 3 garlic cloves, crushed 1/2 bunch sage, roughly chopped, plus extra whole leaves 1 tbs plain flour 900ml pure (thin) cream 200g smoked cheese, coarsely grated 11/4 cups (100g) finely grated parmesan 1 large cauliflower, blanched until just tender, cut into wedges 1/4 tsp freshly grated nutmeg Preheat the oven to 200°C. Grease a 2.5L baking dish. Cook…

“Gouda is made traditionally with fresh cow’s milk, is soft and creamy, with balanced intensity.” The cooler months are here, the perfect excuse to whip up this simple Gratin - loaded with irresistible Frico Gouda cheese, creamy spinach and potato. Gouda is a classic Dutch cheese and takes this recipe to another level. Serve as a tasty side dish or make it the hero for meat-free Monday, either way it won’t let you down. CREAMY SPINACH & POTATO GRATIN SERVES 4-6 2 tablespoons butter 4 medium potatoes, peeled & thinly sliced 8 Frico Gouda cheese slices 2 teaspoons oregano 2 handfuls spinach (about 80g) 2 medium garlic cloves, minced 250ml milk 250ml cooking cream 1/2 teaspoon salt 1/4 teaspoon black pepper 1/4 teaspoon nutmeg 3/4 teaspoon garlic powder 1 bay…

“I’M PUTTING THE BEST OF THE SEASON’S CITRUS TO GREAT USE IN RECIPES THAT BRING COLDER-WEATHER COMFORT FOOD TO LIFE. GET ZESTING AND JUICING, THEN FIRE UP YOUR OVEN FOR TANGY RESULTS THAT WILL BRING SMILES TO THE DINNER TABLE.”Samantha Coutts, Assistant Food Editor ROAST LEMON CHICKEN AND POTATOES SERVES 4 You will need kitchen string for this recipe. 1.4kg whole chicken Finely grated zest and juice of 3 lemons, plus 1 extra lemon, halved 1 bunch lemon thyme 1/2 cup (125ml) extra virgin olive oil 1.5kg chat potatoes 2 leeks, white part only, chopped 8 garlic cloves, bruised 1 cup (250ml) chicken stock 2 bunches broccolini, tops cut into 3cm pieces, stalks thinly sliced If you like, chill the chicken, uncovered, overnight (this helps dry out the skin).…

“It’s stylish, intuitive and easy to use. With the app, I can order my regular coffee from my phone while still lying in bed. Genius!” Kerrie McCallum, delicious. editor-in-chief Just about gone are the days of “white with two”. Now, it’s all about perfecting that piccolo, macchiato or creamy flat white and serving it at home to suitably impressed coffee connoisseurs – also known as friends and family. As the world gains more coffee drinkers than ever, tastes are evolving and becoming more discerning and unique. De’Longhi’s stylish, versatile and easy-to-use PrimaDonna Elite Experience coffee machine has, then, entered the market at just the right time WELL-GROUNDED FEATURES There are plenty of ways to enjoy coffee, which is why De’Longhi’s PrimaDonna Elite Experience comes with a host of intuitive touch-control…

ITALIAN INDULGENCE Potato pizza with Italian sausage and fontina cheese, p 87 San Marzano Manoro Primitivo IGP 2016 Pumpkin, rosemary & truffle ricotta lasagne bake, p 70 Tim Smith Eden Valley Viognier 2017 Apple & rhubarb pie, p 116 Brimoncourt Brut Rosé NV  “I love the changing scenery, cooler weather and muted colours of late autumn, especially as it heralds the reawakening of some heartier red wines. Indulge yourself with a rustic, earthy-toned chianti or, better still, go the whole hog and choose an Italian primitivo. It’s Southern Italy’s answer to our very own Barossa Valley shiraz. Full-bodied with licorice and violet, primitivo wines are packed full of flavour and will support the heartiest of pizza and pasta dishes. Try one and I promise you’ll never look back.” Simon Green,…

Award winning, innovative and sustainable, King Valley Dairy on the banks of the King River in Moyhu, Victoria, champions local produce in their cultured dairy products. Originally, founder Naomi Ingleton aimed to make a true cultured butter to rival European imports, using locally sourced ingredients and employing sustainable and ethical production practices. Now, the cultured dairy products made by King Valley have diversified, but their incredible butter remains at the core of the business. Made in small batches, the butter is naturally cultured, with its raw ingredients sourced from an all-Australian dairy co-op. The flavour of the butter develops over 18 hours of production, lending it a slight acidity and crisp, clean finish. Adding to the dairy’s sustainable nature, all water is reused in the garden to grow food for…

1. Crow Canyon brownie pan in Blue Marble, $34.95, from Everten, everten.com.au  2. Crow Canyon loaf pan in Pink Marble, $34.95, from Everten 3. De Buyer 4.5cm fluted Bordelais copper canele mould, $43.50, from Essential Ingredient, essentialingredient.com.au 4. Gobel traditional-finish 8.25cm brioche pan (set of 6), $20, from Williams Sonoma, williams-sonoma.com.au 5. De Buyer 5.5cm fluted Bordelais copper canele mould, from Essential Ingredient 6. Stainless-steel shallow cake pan, $19.50, from Essential Ingredient 7. Wiltshire 24cm round springform pan, $17.60, from Coles, coles.com.au 8. Nordic Ware ‘Anniversary’ loaf pan, $50, from Williams Sonoma 9. Mini springform non-stick cake pan, $2, from Kmart, kmart.com.au…

THE WILD BARRAMUNDI fishermen of Australia’s Top End are as fabled as the hero Australian fish itself. The threat from freshwater and saltwater crocodiles is second only to that posed by paralysis- or death-inducing creeping, crawling and flying fauna. The fishermens’ toughness is part of the legend of the great Aussie barramundi. “It’s a member of the catadromous family, meaning it’s equally at home in salt, fresh or brackish water,” says John Susman of seafood consultancy Fishtales. “In Australia they’re found across the Top End from the Noosa River to Shark Bay in WA.” Wild barra has umami characteristics, Susman adds, with mild mushroom notes and a broad scalloping yet meaty flesh that’s “absolutely extraordinary”. He foresees a renaissance of appreciation for the wild fish. However, he also reveals that…

THE US SUPER BOWL has been decided and now the bookmakers have set the odds for the soccer World Cup, which is upon us once again (June 14-July 15). This got me thinking who would win a culinary world cup if the countries headed to Russia were each asked to field that most fashionable of items – a food bowl that represented their cuisine. Which would be the bowl you’d most like to have play in your own kitchen? To help you choose, here is my form guide to my Food Bowl World Cup. THE FAVOURITES Let’s be brutally honest, the best bowls come from nations that are at the longest odds of winning the World Cup. So we’ll focus on them. Go to delicious.com.au to see other countries’ offerings.…

AUTUMN HAS ARRIVED, and what better seasonal bounty to celebrate than pumpkin? I love to go nuts about one ingredient. I’ve been growing different varieties of pumpkin for the past 15 years – they come in all sorts of shapes and sizes. Pumpkin has the most wonderful ability to cling onto flavours, making it extremely versatile, and it works beautifully with all sorts of cuisines. Butternut may be the most common one on sale – and we rightly love it for its savoury-sweet flavour – but more varieties are popping up on the shelves these days, and it’s well worth giving them a try. As long as the flesh is a rich orange colour and dense in texture (as opposed to mottled or stringy), you’re going to get a good…

Exceptional itineraries for travellers seeking extraordinary experiences have been at the heart of Scenic’s five-star luxury journeys for more than 30 years. Australian owned and operated since 1986, Scenic has maintained a progressive course through the ever-evolving travel sector to stay not only relevant, but leading the pack. In January 2016, it sailed into Southeast Asia river cruising for the first time, offering an unprecedented level of luxury along the Mekong and Irrawaddy rivers. With exclusive tours to corners of our planet less travelled, on a Scenic cruise passengers can expect itineraries that are rich in culture and content, and which will always journey to the heart of a destination to learn about its present, its past and its people. Breathtaking natural wonders, incredible architecture, rich history, unique dining experiences…

ANDY BOWDEN’S SALTED MAPLE CUSTARD PIE WITH ROSEMARY AND MACADAMIA SERVES 6 “I love serving this rich, custard pie with caramelised apples and creme fraiche.” Begin this recipe at least 4 hours ahead. 125g salted butter, chopped 200ml maple syrup 2/3 cup (165ml) pure (thin) cream 1/2 tsp vanilla bean paste 150g caster sugar 2 1 /2 tsp cornflour 4 eggs 1 tsp apple cider vinegar 1/2 cup (75g) macadamias 1 tbs rosemary leaves Creme fraiche, to serve PIE CRUST 160g plain flour, plus extra to dust 2 1 /2 tsp caster sugar 95g cold unsalted butter, cut into 2cm pieces 25ml apple cider vinegar For the pie crust, place flour, sugar and a pinch of salt flakes in a bowl and stir to combine. Add…

“IT’S SUCH A CONTRAST: THE NOTHINGNESS OF THE DESERT AND THE EPICENTRE OF OWNERSHIP THAT IS VEGAS.” We met at E.P. & L.P. first thing in the morning with a few long nights at Cecconi’s and Jumbo’s under our belts – as fresh as daisies, natch It’s only a four- to five-hour drive to Vegas, but we had the whole day mapped out for the journey, and our crew was ready to roll. On the trip were me, Icebergs director Maurice Terzini, Vic’s Meat CEO Anthony Puharich, sommelier James Hird, E.P. & L.P. chef Louis Tikaram and Vittoria managing director Rolando Schirato. The day before, we’d collaborated with Louis at his restaurant, so we packed the muscle cars with food and hit the road. Driving through LA, we passed famous…

1. Springcourt B2S 2021 canvas sneakers , $170, springcourt.com.au 2. Levi’s Graphic Set-In 2 T-shirt, $59.95, levis.com.au 3. Levi’s 502 jeans, $129.95 4. Apple HomePod , $499, apple.com/au 5. G-Star ‘Rackam Deline’ sneakers , $220, g-star.com 6. Prada L’Homme Prada L’eau Eau De Toilette 50ml, $105, from David Jones (davidjones .com.au) 7. Bose QuietComfo rt 35 wireless headphone s II, $499, bose.com.au 8. Duskii red weekender bag, $169, duskii.com 9. Calvin Klein board shorts, $119.95, calvinklein .com 10. Lekker Sportief men’s 3-speed bicycle in deep blue, from $698, lekkerbike s.com.au 11. Giorgio Armani sunglasses , $330, from Giorgio Armani, 1300 655 612 12. The Upside x Nadia Fairfax Capsule ‘Korbut’ Crew, $189, theupside sport.com 13. DJI ‘Mavic Air’ drone, $1299, from DJI Store (store.dji.com) 14. Duskii ‘Kailua’ racer bikini top, $130 15. Apple Watch Series…

The Riverina is an Australian heavyweight when it comes to food production. Driving through the region, you are flanked by citrus groves as far as the eye can see, vineyards stretching to the horizon and small brown mountains of harvested almonds. But only recently has it been recognised as a destination for food lovers, as young entrepreneurs return in droves to embrace their country roots and set up restaurants, wineries and tour companies, and producers and growers hop off their tractors to give farm tours as those behind the scenes take a step forward. This is the heartland of farm-to-fork and paddock-to-plate, where more often than not, nearly everything you’re eating is local and seasonal. We meet the chefs, artisans, winemakers and growers sharing the bounty this region has to…

all natural Enjoy a creamy Australian-owned cheese with The Norco Natural Cheese Co.’s Elbo Style Cheese. The full-flavoured offering is low in salt, suitable for vegetarians and contains acidophilus cultures for good gut health. Visit: norcofoods.com.au finishing touch Dress (the table) to impress with designer paper napkins imported from around the world by McMillan. Marvel at designs from Caspari, IHR and Marimekko, including strong three-ply, sustainably printed options. Visit: mcmillancards.com.au sweet spot Add depth and complexity to your culinary creations with CSR Dark Muscovado Sugar. The notes of toffee and treacle will intensify both sweet and savoury dishes, whether it’s a fudgy chocolate cake or moreish marinade. Visit: csrsugar.com.au fun of the festival Celebrate Australian food, wine and lifestyle at the Noosa Food and Wine Festival this May. Enjoy meals…

Smeg’s powerful appliances help create family meals that are fast, fresh and flavourful, and with their striking retro styling, they make ideal gifts for Mother’s Day MODERN CLASSICS The architecturally-designed Smeg Stand Mixer’s impressive form is equalled by its function. It does everything you’d expect – whipping, kneading – and more. It mashes, shreds and even creates fresh pasta with optional pasta roller and cutter attachments. Two additions to the range are the Variable Temperature Kettle, with preset heat settings for various teas and coffee, and the all-purpose Hand Blender, which whips, whisks, blends, chops and much more. Mum will thank you. • Visit: smeg50style.com.au…