Britain的January/February 2020目录

“Look to the future, but remember the past” could be the theme of this issue. As a new decade dawns, we’re busy filling the diary with plans and trips for the year ahead. Top of my list is the North Coast 500, an atmospheric drive through some of Scotland’s most spectacular scenery (Take the high road, p72). We’re also marking some special anniversaries. It’s 400 years since a certain ship set sail on an epic voyage, and in doing so, changed the course of history. In the first of a two-part series, we tell the stirring story of the Mayflower (Pilgrims ’ progress, p23). And we’re wishing a very happy birthday to the National Trust (National treasure, p35): this venerable institution turns 125 this year. Elsewhere, we tour Dorset’s dramatic…

EXHIBITION British Baroque Tate Britain called on the country's stately homes to lend artworks for their upcoming exhibition British Baroque: Power and Illusion. Some of the paintings have never been seen before, and it will be the first time that Tate has staged a show devoted to the later 17th century. From the Restoration of Charles II in 1660 to the death of Queen Anne in 1714, the momentous change of the late Stuart period gave rise to a new age of art: one that was preoccupied with status and influence. The exhibition, which will celebrate grand-scale portraiture, the artifice of trompe l’oeil and the impact of baroque mural painting, runs from 5 February to 19 April. www.tate.org.uk OPENING Naval legacy For its opening this spring, Plymouth’s new museum, The…

GETTING THERE Trains run from London Waterloo every 30min to Weymouth (journey time 3hr). The Jurassic Coaster bus service stops all along the coast. www.thetrainline.com; www.firstgroup.com WHERE TO STAY Jane Austen would have approved of Dorset House, Lyme Regis’s best B&B, with stunning Regency interiors, open fireplaces and and a generous breakfast. In Studland, at the eastern end of the Jurassic Coast, The Pig - On The Beach is a cosy retreat with a walled kitchen garden. www.dorsethouselyme.com; www.thepighotel.com WHERE TO EAT The Hive Beach Café at Burton Bradstock, near West Bay, has earned plaudits for its seafood and homemade cakes. In Lyme Regis, Hix Oyster &Fish House also specialises in seafood, and floor-to-ceiling windows allow you to watch the comings and goings in the harbour below. www.hivebeachcafe.co.uk; www.hixrestaurants.co.uk FURTHER…

The Tower of London, Blackpool’s piers, cheeky seaside cartoons: even in our age of selfies and Instagram, choosing and sending postcards still remains an essential ritual for many holidaymakers. They may even write those golden words: “Wish you were here…” This year marks the 150th anniversary of the first official postcards issued by the British Post Office (1870): buff-coloured rectangles pre-printed in purple with a halfpenny stamp and the royal coat of arms, and with space for an address to be added; the reverse was left blank for your message. While some had reservations about the “open” nature of such correspondence, including that servants might pry on news, the cards clearly offered benefits: postage cost half that of a letter and with deliveries as frequent as four times a day…

William Morris, founder of the Arts & Crafts movement, liked nothing better than inviting friends round for a spot of DIY. Once, they painted a huge mural of biblical characters on his bedroom wall – Adam and Eve, with a serpent; Noah, holding a miniature ark; and Rachel and Jacob, with a ladder. Morris’s friends included Elizabeth Siddall and Ford Madox Brown, Dante Gabriel Rossetti and Edward Burne-Jones, all future Pre-Raphaelite artists. They loved Red House, the home Morris had built and designed with another friend, the architect Philip Webb; Rossetti called it “more a poem than a house”. The red-brick building, finished in 1860, was in Bexleyheath – then in Kent, now part of London – as Morris had wanted a rural home for himself and his new wife,…

GETTING THERE Trains from London King's Cross and Liverpool Street Station reach Bury St Edmunds in 1hr 45min, and from the station it’s around a 10-minute walk to the town centre. www.thetrainline.com EAT, DRINK, SLEEP Stay at the Angel Hotel, which was given a major refresh in 2019, and eat in the cool on-site brasserie-style restaurant. For drinks, squeeze yourself into the Nutshell round the corner, which claims to be the smallest pub in Britain. www.theangel.co.uk; www.thenutshellpub.co.uk FURTHER INFORMATION www.visit-burystedmunds.co.uk…

My Dearest Heart: The Artist Mary Beale (1633-1699) by Penelope Hunting (Unicorn, £25). The first biography of the life and work of Mary Beale, portrait painter. Other Ranks by William Vincent Tilsley (Unicorn, £14.99). A First World War classic, first published in 1931 but lost in the wave of war memoirs and novels since. Utopia: The History of an Idea by Gregory Claeys (Thames & Hudson, £9.99). This book is an illustrated history of a perennially powerful idea: the quest for the ideal society. British Castles and Palaces by Roy Charles (White on Black Publishing, £9.95). This illustrated hardback is stuffed with facts about Britain’s inspiring historic buildings. Charles and Ada: The Computer’s Most Passionate Partnership by James Essinger (The History Press, £16.99). Letters shed light on the friendship between…

On 16 September 1620, the Mayflower set sail from Plymouth on England’s southwestern coast, carrying 102 passengers determined to make a new life for themselves in America. But their story starts long before, in a handful of villages in the heart of England. In the 16th and early 17th centuries life was tough for people who didn’t conform to the Church of England’s rules. Roman Catholics were famously persecuted, but even within Protestantism there was dissent from those who felt the Church of England’s ritual came between them and God. They wanted to strip away the ornament and “purify” the Church, but it was a dangerous choice. Punishment for defying the Church – and its head, the monarch – was harsh. For some, there was only one solution: emigration. Historian…

Of the sumptuous historic properties that grace the pages of this magazine, how many would still exist were it not for the National Trust? Without the vision and ambition of this much-loved organization, countless national treasures – now preserved, in the Trust’s words, “forever, for everyone” – would long ago have been scooped up by avaricious developers. It was with a typically Victorian mix of high idealism and unassailable brio that the National Trust for Places of Historic Interest or Natural Beauty was founded by a trio of nature-loving philanthropists in 1895. Chief among them was the indomitable Octavia Hill, a pioneer of affordable housing whose experiences of the cramped conditions of her urban tenants encouraged her to seek protection for London’s remaining green spaces. Dismayed by the relentless onslaught…

Have you ever visited a stately home, lingered in its sumptuous rooms, strolled the sprawling grounds, and imagined yourself lord or lady of the manor? Those in the know prolong the experience with an overnight stay on the surrounding estate, enjoying the magnificent setting once the crowds have gone home. The so-called “Downton Effect” – a renewed passion for historic homes generated by the enormously popular TV drama – is surely to thank for the fact that stately homes are increasingly offering accommodation in their grounds. And it’s perhaps no surprise that the “real Downton Abbey”, Highclere Castle in Hampshire, is one of them. After a tour of Highclere’s sumptuous state rooms you can retire to your home for the night, London Lodge, a warm, cottagey counterpoint to the formal…

Red House, London There are regular tours of the house, as well as a roster of events inspired by the Pre-Raphaelites. www.nationaltrust.org.uk Kelmscott Manor, Oxfordshire The house and gardens are undergoing conservation works and will reopen in 2021. www.sal.org.uk/kelmscott-manor Kelmscott House, London The William Morris Society is open Thursdays and Saturdays 2-5pm. Regular exhibitions, workshops and talks are organised. www.williammorrissociety.org Standen, West Sussex Join an expert-led tour to find out more about Standen’s Morris & Co connections. www.nationaltrust.org.uk Emery Walker’s House, London The house opens after its winter closure on 5 March, with tours on Thursdays and Saturdays (book in advance). www.emerywalker.org.uk David Parr House, Cambridge Hidden from view for decades, this unique house is now open for small-group tours on Thursdays and Saturdays; book well ahead. www.davidparrhouse.org…

GETTING THERE Direct trains from London Paddington take one hour to reach Oxford. If you’re based elsewhere in London, consider the Oxford Tube, a coach service that runs every 15min from numerous stops including Victoria, Marble Arch and Shepherd’s Bush. www.thetrainline.com; www.oxfordtube.com WHERE TO STAY Sister hotels The Old Bank and The Old Parsonage Hotel are each steeped in history but special in their own right. The former houses 43 luxury bedrooms in its historic building, many with unrivalled views of the city’s most famous landmarks, proudly surrounded as it is by the colleges of Merton, All Souls, Christ Church and University, and opposite the iconic Radcliffe Camera. The smaller Old Parsonage Hotel occupies a 17th-century building and channels country-house charm through its chic interiors. There are even vintage-style bicycles…

Oh, how I miss you, may I count the ways? Regent Street & Leicester Square, countless stores with wondrous ware. Oxford Street and dear old Marks; many green and lovely parks. How I long for Street of Bond, lots of goodies and beyond? Piccadilly, oh so grand; Trafalgar Square and then the Strand. City great and so sublime. Let me see you one more time. Elizabeth Mercer, Hilo, Hawaii, USA Our star letter wins a London Underground luggage tag in Central Red (£12.50, London Transport Museum Shop), a bright and cheerful accessory to add a pop of colour to your suitcase. www.ltmuseumshop.co.uk…

TOURS Adrian Gray leads Pilgrims and Prophets Christian Heritage Tours, guiding individuals and small groups on the Mayflower trail. Alternatively, Mayflower 400 have devised a self-guided tour that you can download for free. www.pilgrimsandprophets.co.uk; www.mayflower400uk.org EAT, DRINK, SLEEP Ye Olde Bell Hotel and Spa in Retford makes a good base for Mayflower-related visits and serves reliably excellent food, while the Fox & Hounds in Blidworth Bottoms is a cosy family pub with enormous portions and a hearty welcome. www.yeoldebell-hotel.co.uk; www.foxblidworth.co.uk FURTHER INFORMATION www.mayflower400uk.org Adrian Gray’s book about the Mayflower story, From Here We Changed the World, is available from www.amazon.com.…

• The National Trust is Britain’s second-biggest landowner, looking after more than 250,000 hectares of countryside in England, Wales and Northern Ireland. The National Trust for Scotland, a separate organization, was set up in 1931. • The Giant’s Causeway in Northern Ireland, one of 11 World Heritage properties cared for by the Trust, is its most popular attraction. • The Trust is the largest membership organization in the UK, with over 5.6 million members. • Properties include a theatre, a Roman goldmine, several lighthouses and 39 pubs.…

London Lodge A characterful hideaway for two in the grounds of one of the world’s most famous houses. www.highclerecastle.co.uk/london-lodge The Wellington Arms A traditional English pub and chic, contemporary rooms make this a tempting option in Hampshire. www.wellingtonarmshampshire.co.uk Lawn House A luxury B&B with stylish rooms and a pleasant garden, a stone’s throw from Hatfield House. www.lawn-house.com The Five Arrows Rooms at this half-timbered building are named after Rothschild wines. www.fivearrowshotel.co.uk Hunting Tower Located on the edge of Stand Wood, this historic tower has lovely views of Chatsworth’s parkland. www.chatsworthcottages.co.uk The Cavendish Hotel Part of the Chatsworth estate since 1830, the hotel has four-poster beds, luxurious linens and artworks from the big house. www.cavendishbaslow.co.uk Aldourie Castle The castle is available for exclusive hire but if your budget won’t stretch, rent…

GETTING THERE Inverness airport has flights from UK airports including London, Bristol and Manchester. The Caledonian Sleeper train arrives daily at 8.42am (except Sundays), having travelled overnight from London Euston. www.invernessairport.co.uk; www.sleeper.scot WHERE TO EAT Try local langoustines and mussels from the loch outside the window at the Kylesku Hotel, and don’t miss dinner at the Applecross Inn, where seafood is chalked up on the blackboard and the garden has views of Skye. www.kyleskuhotel.co.uk; www.applecrossinn.co.uk WHERE TO STAY The Torridon stands on the shores of the eponymous loch on Scotland’s west coast, offering luxury in the main hotel and simpler rooms at the inn. In nearby Applecross, Eagle Rock is a stylish self-catering eco-lodge, ideal for boutique destination gatherings, with panoramic views from its infinity hot tub. Further north, overlooking…

Newark Park’s romantic crenellated walls of soft-hued stone have gazed out over the lush Ozleworth valley towards the Mendip Hills for hundreds of years. Built around 1550, they have an ancient feel, enhanced by mysterious woodland paths, half-wild borders and crisp, formal gardens, but this former hunting lodge is a house of many eras. Some are very modern indeed. The core of the building is Tudor, built for Nicholas Poyntz, an Elizabethan courtier. Poyntz didn’t quarry the stone for his “New Worke” himself, instead looting the newly dissolved Kingswood Abbey – just the other side of Wotton-under-Edge – for materials. Newark was heavily reworked in the 1790s by Reverend Lewis Clutterbuck. He added a glamorous columned entrance hall and a spectacular staircase that utilised the window from Poyntz’s Banqueting Hall,…