Bake from Scratch的March/April 2019目录

AT LAST, WE RETURN TO THE EPICENTER OF BAKING: FRANCE. My love for France—the pastries, the breads, the culture—goes back almost as far as my love for baking. The Bake from Scratch team has been there many times over, constantly mining the land of pâtisserie for sweet inspiration. This well never runs dry, so here we are again for a deeper dive into cake, custard, and crème. This issue is stacked with both classic and revamped recipes signature to the French. We have the Parisian Flan, a custard creation that checks all the boxes on texture, taste, and sheer beauty. Then we’re focusing on France’s top cultured cream and one of my favorite ingredients to bake with: crème fraîche. We put fraîche spins on pain de mie, pound cake, and…

DINE La Jacobine 6th arrondissement 59-61 rue Saint-André des Arts, 75006 I always stop by this retro bistro tucked away in an arcade near Odeon for spicy tajine and their family-style desserts. Mokonuts 11th arrondissement 5 rue Saint-Bernard, 75011 Mokonuts is one of Paris’s hidden gems, serving up lunch with Middle Eastern flair and the city’s best cookies. Buvette 9th arrondissement 28 rue Henry Monnier, 75009 Instagram-famous for their cozy street-side tables, this bistro has a delicious tarte Tatin that I never miss. Le Trumilou 4th arrondissement 84 quai de l’Hôtel de Ville, 75004 This restaurant in the trendy Marais neighborhood serves up the best steak au poivre and tarte au citron around. STROLL AND SHOP Île Saint-Louis 4th arrondissement I love meandering down the streets of the Île Saint-Louis,…

You’ve written that one of the most exciting parts of baking in France is shopping for ingredients at your local market. What are your top dos and don’ts for market day in France? DL: Do be polite; the people at the market work hard, so respect what they do. Do hold your place in line. In France, if you leave space between you and the person in front of you (no matter how insignificant you might think it is), that’s often construed as an opportunity to jump ahead. Don’t touch anything or help yourself unless you see others doing it. Don’t haggle; prices at most markets are fixed, although if you’re looking for bargains, go at the end of the market. You have an affinity for chocolate and have diplomas…

Copper is a hallmark of French cooking and baking. The soft red-orange metal is as signature to France’s romantic culinary identity as farm-fresh eggs or thick wedges of melty Brie. Julia Child lovingly referred to her glorious copper pot wall as her batterie de cuisine. These pots—many first purchased in the 1950s Paris at the famed cookware store E. Dehillerin—remained with the celebrity chef for over 45 years, exquisite and useful souvenirs that transported her right back to those days in her French kitchen. Like Julia, we’re enraptured with the world of fine French copperware. Conducting heat more evenly and much faster than any other metal, it is the superior choice for all efforts in pâtisserie. Copper pans bake perfectly even and moist gâteaux, crisp and caramelized tarte Tatin, and…

If there’s flavorful, fresh (and often sourdough) bread served in restaurants today, it’s because it evolved in lockstep with a broader culinary transformation over the last decade. Bistronomy, a food movement that saw chefs rebelling against the confines of classic cooking and bringing their haute cuisine skills to a casual dining format with a hyper-seasonal, no-rules approach to dining, effectively turned the food scene on its head. It filled the gap between the mediocre bistros and pricey temples of fine dining, did away with the tablecloths and buttoned-up service, and put the emphasis back on substance after years of declining quality and care. Bistronomic restaurants were meant to be affordable, transparent in their ingredient sourcing, and unfussy. They were that and more: They put forgotten, wartime vegetables back on menus,…

Piping Tips: For piping Cream Puffs, use a round tip measuring about ½ inch across, such as an Ateco #806 Plain Piping Tip. For filling your Éclairs and Cream Puffs, use a ¼-inch round tip, like an Ateco #802 Plain Piping Tip. For piping your Éclairs and Paris-Brests, use a 9/16-inch French star piping tip, such as an Ateco #867 French Star Tip. Finally, to fill your Paris-Brests, use a 3/8-inch French star tip, like an Ateco #824 Open Star Tip. You can find these tips in your local grocery store’s baking aisle or online. Pastry Bags: You’ll need to use large, 18-inch plastic pastry bags for both your choux dough and your crème mousseline fillings. Remember not to overfill, or you’ll have dough and crème shooting out the end.…

Opera Cake Makes 1 (6-inch) cake The traditional opera cake has layers of almond sponge cake soaked in coffee syrup and finished off with a shiny ganache. Frank’s version has a luxurious chocolate cake base and a layer of Coffee Buttercream for a subtle kick. 2½ cups (313 grams) all-purpose flour 2 cups (400 grams) granulated sugar ½ cup (43 grams) Dutch process cocoa powder 2 teaspoons (10 grams) baking powder 2 teaspoons (10 grams) baking soda ½ teaspoon (1.5 grams) kosher salt 1 cup (240 grams) whole buttermilk 1 cup (240 grams) strong-brewed hot coffee ½ cup (112 grams) sunflower or vegetable oil 2 large eggs (100 grams) 1 teaspoon (4 grams) vanilla extract Coffee Syrup (recipe follows) Chocolate Buttercream (recipe follows) Coffee Buttercream (recipe follows) Almond Buttercream (recipe…

MY PARIS KITCHEN: RECIPES AND STORIES (Ten Speed Press, 2014) by David Lebovitz Blogger and man-about-town David Lebovitz captures Paris’s modern culinary culture with the recipes and anecdotes featured in his delicious cookbook. See page 33 for more on David and all the goodness that goes down in his kitchen. LE BERNARDIN COOKBOOK: FOUR-STAR SIMPLICITY (Clarkson Potter, 1998) by Eric Ripert and Maguy Le Coze Eric Ripert and Maguy Le Coze bring a taste of Old-World France to New York City with his Michelin-starred restaurant, Le Bernardin. With this cookbook, chef Eric brings it to the home kitchen, introducing home bakers to triumphs such as his Bitter Chocolate Soufflé Cake. MASTERING THE ART OF FRENCH COOKING, VOL. 1 (Alfred A. Knopf, 1961) by Julia Child, Louisette Bertholle, Simone Beck You…

@geeparee22: I love Geni’s incidentals of life in Paris. If you can’t decide what to pack, check her Paris People stories to see what Parisians are wearing! @parisjetaime: The official Instagram account of the Paris Convention and Visitors Bureau is my go-to for an inside look at the city’s best sites. @desserted_in_paris: Pastry chef Tal Spiegel takes overhead shots of pastries around the city, coordinating each epic pastry with his even more epic shoes. The man’s got taste.…

FIRST TIME EATING PÂTISSERIE? “I ordered Pierre Hermé’s mille-feuille on a Parisian pastry tour. When I took my first bite, I shed a tear! I’d never tasted something so complex. ” Joann Pai Food and travel photographer Paris, France GO-TO FRENCH RECIPE TO BAKE AT HOME? “I love the simplicity of madeleines. They’re lovely with a cup of tea and can be infused with anything. Right now, I’m keen on matcha madeleines. ” Frank Barron Food writer and founder of Cake Boy Paris blog Paris, France FIRST TIME EATING PÂTISSERIE? “Twelve years ago, I tried my first éclair. This was before less-sweet pastry was trendy, so it was incredibly sweet. It was a downright revelation! ” Lindsey Tramuta Writer and author of The New Paris (Harry N. Abrams, 2017) Paris,…

In the medieval town of Beaune located in Burgundy, France, a region known for its incredible terroir and small-production wines, mustard, and escargot, The Cook’s Atelier draws cooks and bakers from around the globe to their weekly cooking classes on Rue de Lorraine. Upon entering their storefront with copper gleaming through the windows, it’s quickly apparent that The Cook’s Atelier is a true family affair. Mother-daughter duo Marjorie Taylor and Kendall Smith Franchini lead the Burgundian-style cooking classes on the second floor of a 17th-century building, and Kendall’s husband, Laurent, tends the culinary boutique and brews the best coffee in Beaune. After school, Kendall and Laurent’s older children, Luc and Manon, spend their afternoons riding an antique tricycle around the store and watching their grandmother pipe madeleines that they’ll dust…

Dutch process cocoa powder can look and act differently in baked goods compared to other cocoa varieties. Pay close attention to labels to ensure you pick up the right stuff. When removing your baked goods from copper pans, use silicone spatulas or wooden spoons. Using sharp metal utensils will scratch through the tin lining and into your lovely copper. Test the dough for proper gluten development. Pinch off (don’t tear) a small piece of dough. Slowly pull dough out from center. If dough is ready, you will be able to stretch it until it’s thin and translucent. If dough tears, it’s not quite ready.…

Baguette: Literally translated, “wand” or “baton,” which describes the white bread’s shape. This is the most iconic of French varieties. It gained popularity in the 19th century but is rapidly falling out of favor. It’s worth noting that unlike the “tradition” (see below), the ordinary baguette is made with additives and produced mechanically. Baguette tradition: The ordinary baguette’s hand-formed, crunchier sibling with pointy ends. It often contains sourdough starter, and the ingredients are legally regulated: flour, leaven, water, and salt—nothing else. Demi baguette / baguette tradition: A half baguette, and yes, you can absolutely ask for this! Boule: A round loaf of bread (French for “ball”). Ficelle: A slimmer version of the baguette, with a lightly crispy crust and chewy crumb (sometimes called une flûte). Pain au levain: Sourdough bread.…

Cruller: Like a French doughnut, this is choux that has been piped with a star tip and then fried into a crunchy, ridged ring. Croquembouche: Cream puffs are arranged into an elegant tower, stuck together with either caramel or chocolate, and wrapped in a crystalline coat of spun sugar. Religieuse: Two chouxone large, one petite—are stacked together, with cream and dark chocolate layered between, giving the religieuse its signature likeness to its namesake, a nun. Chouquette: This plain puff is adorned only with a scattering of pearl sugar. Choux au Craquelin: These are identical to a cream puff, but with a crunchy twist: the sugar cookie-like cap of craquelin.…

L’Opéra “À Ma Façon” at Pierre Hermé The original opera cake was created in 1903 at Dalloyau in honor of the Opéra Garnier. For his Opera Cake, Frank channeled its modern incarnation created by Pierre Hermé, the country’s most renowned pastry chef. “He uses single-origin chocolate and Brazilian coffee, and I love the dessert’s clean lines,” Frank says. L’Opéra “À Ma Façon” is a limited-edition pastry at two Pierre Hermé boutiques: 72 rue Bonaparte, 75006 | 185 rue de Vaugirard, 75015 Mont Blanc at Angelina There are few desserts as iconic as the Mont Blanc, a signature of the Rue de Rivoli tea salon Angelina. “The best part of the recipe is the generous chestnut cream coating that forms a perfectly round dome,” explains Frank. “Bite into it, and you’ll…

Once béchamel is cooked, remove from heat, and let cool until it is just warm to the touch, 1 to 2 minutes. This will keep you from cooking the yolks or melting the cheese. Whisk in the egg yolks, one at a time. Stir in Parmesan. Your soufflé has everything it needs except the whipped egg whites. It should have a thick, creamy look, slightly yellow with the many egg yolks. Now’s the time to taste for seasoning (salt and pepper) because once you add the whipped whites, stirring must be kept at a minimum. Using a balloon whisk, whip up your egg whites until you achieve stiff, glossy peaks. (Alternatively, you can whip your egg whites with the whisk attachment in your stand mixer.) Properly whipped egg whites help…

These recent cookbooks are incredible references for all things French baking. For more classic French cookbooks every home baker should have on their shelf, flip to page 107. Let’s Eat France (Artisan, 2018) by François-Régis Gaudry This book is an all-encompassing encyclopedia of French cuisine and food culture, with traditional recipes and historical anecdotes accompanied by stunning photography and illustrations. Bake Like a French Pastry Chef (Countryman Press, 2018) by Michel de Rovira and Augustin Paluel-Marmont The authors, cofounders of the Paris-based cookie company Michel et Augustin, created this book to help students pass the French pastry chef certificate. It’s incredibly instructive, offering incisive tips and tutorials that make pâtisserie accessible to everyone.…

BAIN-MARIE (bah-MAH-ree): A cooking technique similar to a double boiler where a pan is placed over a hot water bath to gently heat delicate dishes like soufflés BOULANGERIE (boo-LANzhree): A bakery that specializes in the art of making bread BROCANTE (broh-KAHNT): An outdoor flea market where antiques, art, jewelry, and other secondhand items can be purchased CANELÉ (kan-lay): Rum-flavored pastry with a caramelized crust and a soft, custard interior; baked in special canelés molds CLAFOUTIS (klah-foo-TEE): A dessert made of fruit (traditionally, unpitted cherries) and baked in a sweet custard CRÈME CARAMEL (krehm-KAIR-ah-mel): A freestanding custard dessert served with a caramel sauce CRÈME MOUSSELINE (krehmmoose-leen): A light cream made by combining pastry cream and butter, used as a filling in Paris-Brests and other delicate pastries CRÈME PATISSIÈRE (krehmpa-TEES-ee-air): A thick…

If you ever have the pleasure of enjoying an authentic slice of Tarte Normande, you’ll recognize something acidic and unexpected lying underneath the familiar flavors of apple and custard. This is crème fraîche, the faintly sour counterpoint to the light sweetness of pâtisserie. It’s has a je ne sais quoi, that charming note of subtle decadence that defines French cuisine. Larousse Gastronomique, the ultimate French culinary reference book, describes the ideal crème fraîche as having a “slightly sharp but not sour flavor.” A gentle fermentation creates a delicate balance of acidity, stopped well short of the fermentation process for the more pungent sour cream. Crème fraîche’s smooth, luxurious texture comes from a high butterfat content, 30 to 40 percent as opposed to sour cream’s 20 percent. In France, the dairy…

What makes your Paris apartment special? DG: I’m crazy about my Paris kitchen. It’s very small but extremely workable. What I love most about it is that it’s got two doors (French windows) that open out to a tiny balcony. In winter, it’s full of light, and in spring, summer, and fall, I can open the windows and hear the sounds of Paris and pop out to the balcony to take a coffee-and-cake break. What is your favorite Franco-American dessert you’ve created in your Paris kitchen? DG: I love the classics as much for their tradition as for the way they invite variation. Most of the “composed” classics—the pastries that include several components—are easily played with. The peppermint Paris-Brest and pineapple and coconut dacquoise (most traditionally made with coffee filling)…

Clean the Exterior. Copperbrill is a cleanser made specifically for your beautiful copper cookware and bakeware (available at williamssonoma.com ). For a more traditional solution, cut a lemon in half, coat the pulpy end with table salt, and rub it directly onto your copper until the tarnish is removed; rinse with warm water, and dry immediately. Clean the Interior. Use a soft, nonabrasive sponge, warm water, and regular dishwashing soap on the tin interior, being sure to dry immediately after washing. Re-Tinning. Copper baking pans are lined internally with tin, nickel, or stainless steel. The lining will wear thin over time, requiring a re-tinning once every 10 years. Send your pans in to be professionally re-tinned. We like East Coast Tinning (eastcoasttinning.com) and Rocky Mountain Retinning (rockymountainretinning.com).…

A classic of French pâtisserie, pâte à choux translates to “cabbage dough,” a reference to its resemblance to an irregularly shaped cabbage head when baked up. A twice-cooked dough, first on the stovetop and again in the oven, choux is like a magic air bubble of pastry. Once popped in the oven, the outside sets, the fat crisping into a golden exterior. Inside, the liquid filling contains trapped air pockets, which combine and expand into one perfect void. Hollow and crisp, the golden shell of properly baked choux is a vessel of endless possibilities. Filled with cream and dusted with sugar, it’s the humble triumph of a cream puff. Piped into an oblong shape and coated in chocolate, it transforms into the iconic finger food: the éclair. Formed into a…

The tarte Tatin was born in the late 19th century at the Hotel Tatin in Lamotte-Beuvron, a small village in the heart of the Loire Valley. Created in an attempt to salvage overcooked (and caramelized) apples, it has grown to become one of the most celebrated and recognizable of all French desserts. Of all the Oscar-worthy pastries and cakes that food stylist Susan Spungen has twirled up for film, the tarte Tatin is especially close to her heart. Susan has been the brains and hands behind the on-screen food magic of several blockbuster hits, including It’s Complicated, starring Meryl Streep, and Eat, Pray, Love with Julia Roberts. Susan mastered the tarte Tatin while styling food for her first feature film, Julie & Julia, so it was only fitting she produce…

The pâtisseries of Paris come to life every afternoon around 4 o’clock. If you look closely, the Parisian flan, a flaky pâte brisée tart filled with creamy custard, is at the heart of it all. Children, lifted up by their parents to look over the pastry cases, select flan as their goûter, an afternoon snack. Two women pop in for a slice of flan before heading to a nearby park to savor their treats. A young man rushes out the door, boxed flan in hand. In a few hours, he’ll bring out the simple dessert as the grand finale to a soirée. Often visually upstaged in the pastry case by vivid raspberry macarons and haute lemon meringue tarts, this custard treat errs on the subtle side of beauty. Stiff enough…