Bake from Scratch的March/April 2018目录

WANT TO HAVE YOUR CAKE AND EAT IT, TOO? Well, consider this issue of Bake from Scratch the “icing on the cake” to your baking wish list! OK, enough with the cake puns . . . for now. I want to tell you about my favorite peanut butter cake, the one my sister-in-law bakes. She brought it to the first Christmas I spent with my husband’s family, and now I request it every time I see her (because she won’t share the recipe)! I knew we needed to recreate it so I could indulge as often as I like. The recipe appears on page 36, and it’s fabulously crave-worthy! In addition to our Peanut Butter Cake, this issue features our “mix and match” cake and icing collection (starting on page…

AS DAWN TOUCHED THE PEAK OF MT. DENALI, THE FIRST SEARING SOUNDS OF THE IDITAROD DOGSLED TEAMS SLICING THROUGH SNOW AND ICE COULD BE HEARD AT WINTERLAKE LODGE. They had run through the night, beginning 198 miles away in Anchorage, Alaska, at the ceremonial start of the race, and had now arrived at the Finger Lake checkpoint. Next stop: Rainy Pass, the final milestone before a daunting journey through the looming Alaska Range, where blizzards sweep away trails, the brittle cold of wind cuts through fur and skin alike, and steep gorges threaten to drag entire teams down the slopes. But first, there was a pit stop outside Winterlake Lodge, where rich salmon hand pies, hot coffee, and homemade dog treats awaited man, woman, and man’s best friend. This was…

CRISPY STRAWBERRY TREATS Makes 12 Embrace your inner child with this throwback treat. Faintly pink with homemade Strawberry Marshmallow and studded with the bright, concentrated sweetness of Oven-Dried Strawberries, these chewy, crunchy squares offer a joyful update on a childhood favorite. 9 cups (270 grams) crisp rice cereal Oven-Dried Strawberries (recipe follows) Strawberry Marshmallow (recipe follows) 3 tablespoons (42 grams) unsalted butter, softened and cubed 1. Spray a 13x9-inch baking dish with cooking spray. 2. In a large bowl, stir together cereal and Oven-Dried Strawberries. 3. In a medium glass bowl, stir together warm Strawberry Marshmallow and butter until butter is melted and incorporated. (Marshmallow can be reheated by microwaving on high in 30-second intervals, stirring between each, if necessary.) 4. Spoon marshmallow mixture over cereal mixture; fold until cereal…

THE MORE FAT, THE BETTER. Always use high-quality, high-fat butter (at least 82 percent). It reduces the risk of cracking during rolling and folding and provides a more even distribution. IT MUST BE FRESH. To check freshness, I shave a thin layer with the tip of a knife and check the color; if the outside layer is darker than the inside and there is an off smell, it is no longer fresh and may impart a stale flavor in your pastry. KEEP IT COLD. Throughout the process, butter should be cold but malleable—firm enough so that it doesn’t melt, but soft enough to easily roll. RESTING IS CRUCIAL so the butter can keep the same consistency throughout preparation. My recipe requires a long rest in the refrigerator while the dough…

Anyone who has tried to break outside the macaroon and store-bought matzah box when cooking for Passover (Pesach) knows that the recipe options can be boring and often result in dense, dry dishes. We looked to Israel’s star baker, Uri Scheft of Lehamim Bakery in Tel Aviv, to amp up your seder table options. Born in Israel to Danish parents, Uri has made a name around the world for his beautiful European-style loaves, his luscious braided babka, and a pastry repertoire so full of hamentashen, rugelach, cookies, tarts, and éclairs that it will bring a Parisian to their knees. He opened Lehamim (Israeli for “breads”) Bakery about a decade ago and has become the remedy for Tel Aviv’s bread cravings. Bread is his life. We couldn’t think of anyone better…

W’e live in a time when all it takes is a YouTube account or one viral tweet to propel someone to “celebrity”—even if the status is fleeting. So, it’s almost mind-boggling to imagine a period not even 100 years ago when a premiere ballerina, Anna Pavlova, was so beloved and admired that chefs around the world demonstrated affection and admiration by creating dishes in her honor, with at least 50 documented Pavlova-inspired bites before 1927. In the United States, there was Pavlova ice cream. In France, frogs’ legs à la Pavlova. But it’s the airy meringue dessert bearing her name, crowned with cream and fruit, that has persisted through the years. The origin of that now-classic preparation has been a hotly debated topic in the Southern Hemisphere for decades. Australia…

BEN YUSTER Ben Yuster is a food photographer based in Tel Aviv, Israel. He has been published in numerous magazines and books in Israel, Belgium, and the United States, shooting features for international publications like Belgian publication Foodprint and Time Out Tel Aviv. Ben has also been the main photographer behind marketing campaigns for brands like Coca-Cola and Unilever. When not in his studio, Ben is globe-trotting, constantly on the search for his next shot of edible inspiration. Favorite Birthday Cake: “Anything with hot, melting chocolate that you can add ice cream to on the side. Classic, corrupt, perfect.” KAREN PALMER Karen Palmer’s food writing career reaches back more than a decade. She’s written about food and cooking in San Francisco, New York City, and her current hometown of Los…

If you’re anything like me, your first memory of coconut was in one of those fun-size Mounds bars—not necessarily the prized pick of your Halloween haul, but a sweet, sticky, chocolate-coated treat nonetheless. Perhaps you later graduated to thick, custardy coconut cream pies, snow-white coconut cakes, or chewy, rounded macaroons. My memories of coconut veer toward the homey, like the Magic Bars my grandmother used to make for the holidays, a square concoction slathered with sweetened condensed milk and sprinkled with chocolate chips and a flurry of shredded sweetened coconut. So, you’ve undoubtedly seen packages of that shredded sweetened stuff in your grocery store’s baking aisle, but let’s back up for a second. What exactly is a coconut, anyway? To confuse matters slightly, in the most technical terms, it’s actually…

RUSSIAN SALMON HAND PIES Makes 8 In my version of the Russian coulibiac (or pirok), I use brown rice, cabbage, spices, and a little bit of Manchego cheese. I shape these into hand pies for mushers to “grab and go” along the Iditarod Trail. This recipe can be made into a traditional 9-inch pie or in a jumbo muffin pan. 2 tablespoons (28 grams) unsalted butter 2 medium yellow onion (120 grams), minced 1 clove garlic (5 grams), minced ¼ head medium green cabbage or 2 cups (200 grams), cored and shredded ½ pound mushrooms (122 grams), cleaned and torn 2 teaspoons chopped fresh thyme ½ teaspoon (1.5 grams) caraway seeds Salt and ground black pepper, to taste ½ pound (227 grams) Alaskan salmon, skinned and boned Puff Pastry (recipe…

Nurturing a sourdough starter can be a wonderful thing for a passionate home baker. There is nothing more satisfying than making wild yeast-leavened breads, from true sourdough loaves with their crunchy crusts and open tangy crumb to light, soft brioche-style breads or dark, dense ryes and pumpernickels. My starter, Pilou, has been with me for a few years now and has completely changed the way I bake. Starters are easy to maintain once they are established, and it never ceases to amaze how a simple blend of flour and water can become alive and magical. But even if you keep your starter in the fridge and only feed it once a week or so, you still end up having to discard 100 to 200 grams every time you feed. This…

INGREDIENTS Sugar: Superfine sugar (or granulated sugar processed in a food processor for a few pulses) is the best to use because the smaller granules lead to easy absorption. Cornstarch: Cornstarch is an excellent way to foolproof your meringue. Use it to create added fluff and keep your hard-won volume from shrinking. Cream of tartar: Often added in when making meringues, acidic cream of tartar provides lift and stabilization. White vinegar: This keeps your meringue bright white while being baked. Egg whites: In this case, older egg whites are better. Separate the eggs when cold, but allow them to come to room temperature before whipping up. EQUIPMENT Bowl: A copper bowl would be ideal, but a deep, scrupulously clean glass, ceramic, or metal bowl will do as well. Plastic bowls…

THE FEARLESS BAKER (Rux Martin/Houghton Mifflin Harcourt, 2017) by Erin Jeanne McDowell Tackling the “how” and, more importantly, the “why” of baking, Erin McDowell’s The Fearless Baker is all about building up confidence and expertise for seasoned and fledgling bakers alike, supplying them with the tools and techniques to help face their baking phobias head-on. Whether your anxiety is baking pie, laminating pastry, or whipping up the perfect sponge cake, Erin’s reference book will help you ace the basics so that you can boldly begin experimenting on your own. CAN’T WAIT TO MAKE: Chocolate Palmiers, a demystified version of the famous puff pastry cookie with countless buttery layers, done up in sweet cocoa form. THE TAARTWORK PIES COOKBOOK (Page Street Publishing, 2018) by Brittany Bennett Blending her grandmother’s Dutch method…

SMOOTH Apply an even coat on all sides of cake. Place bench scraper on turntable so long edge is vertical against the side of the cake. Slowly turn the table without moving the scraper until surface is smooth, removing excess frosting from edge of scraper as necessary. COMBED Because it is malleable, Swiss meringue buttercream works best for this design. Apply a thick, even layer of frosting to cake. Place long edge of decorating comb—we use Wilton’s—vertically against side of cake. Gently push comb halfway into frosting, making sure comb does not touch the cake layer underneath. Slowly rotate turntable while holding comb in place. RUSTIC RIDGES Apply an even coat on all sides of cake. Place offset spatula at a slight diagonal against the side of the cake. Gently…

TARTINE BAKERY, SAN FRANCISCO tartinebakery.com Cenk’s Pick: Croissant—the classic is flaky, crisp, buttery, and rich, with well-defined layers and a deeply colored crust. PIERRE HERMÉ, PARIS pierreherme.com Cenk’s Pick: Croissant Ispahan, a decadent Pierre Hermé classic, filled with rose-scented almond paste and raspberry and lychee compote, glazed, and sprinkled with candied rose petals. MR. HOLMES BAKEHOUSE, LOS ANGELES mrholmesbakehouse.com Cenk’s Pick: Churro Croissant, perfectly tender, filled with a delicate dulce de leche cream and dusted with cinnamon sugar.…