AFAR的July/August 2016目录

I’M IN TEHRAN, on the back of a motorcycle being driven by a random guy off the street who speaks no English. We are in a dedicated bus lane passing one bus as another heads straight for us. I yell to my friend behind me (did I mention there are three of us on the bike?), “I hope he knows what he’s doing!” I think back to a recent talk I heard by Arnold Donald, CEO of Carnival Cruise Lines. He said, “We are all afraid to die. It’s in our DNA. But we should not be afraid to live.” As the bus closes in on us, I think, maybe I’m pushing this living boldly thing too far. Obviously, we survived. It was one of those uncomfortable moments that becomes…

1 MANGIA, MANGIA The people behind the city’s best pizza (Buona Forchetta) and pasta (Bice) have joined forces at Officine Buona Forchetta. The magic happens in two gold-tiled wood-fire ovens—one dedicated to gluten-free pizzas—that produce blistered Neapolitan pies. 2865 Sims Rd. 2 SHOP to IT Slip into the SoCal way of life at Moniker General, where you can buy canvasand-leather backpacks and electric-blue surfboards, all made in San Diego. Stop at the bar for a local beer or a nitro cold-brew coffee made with Moniker’s own blend, or scope out the boutique’s salvaged-wood furniture. 2860 Sims Rd. 3 HOT STUFF Spending an afternoon at Fireside by the Patio is like hanging out in a friend’s backyard—if your friend had an enormous deck and an obsession with cooking by fire. Most…

SMALL TOWN, BIG BEACH “Spring Point Ledge Lighthouse, a small Victorian lighthouse surrounded by a dog-friendly beach, is perfect for tromping around. To explore further, take a day trip to the rustic shipyard town of Bath. I usually stroll around the shops. After, I plan a cookout at Popham Beach. From there, at low tide, you can cross a sandbar and walk out to Fox Island.” Save Alex’s picks to your trip plan at afar.com/carletonmaine ONE SAILOR’S TRASH . . . “I love tote bags. I own hundreds of them. When I discovered Sea Bags back in the late ’90s, I was hooked. The owners make them out of recycled sails and nautical rope. Another store I love is David Wood Clothiers. Owner David Hodgkins travels the world and brings…

afar.com/hotels/collection Aqua Wellness Resort Tola, Nicaragua Awasi Atacama and Patagonia, Chile Belle Mont Farm on Kittitian Hill St. Kitts Belmond Maroma Riviera Maya, Mexico Belmond Peru Cusco, Lima, Machu Picchu, and the Sacred Valley Carillon Miami Beach Miami Beach, Florida Casa de las Olas Tulum, Mexico Cavallo Point Lodge Sausalito, California Chatham Bars Inn Cape Cod, Massachusetts Dorado Beach, A Ritz-Carlton Reserve Dorado, Puerto Rico Flemings Mayfair Hotel London, United Kingdom Freehand Chicago Chicago, Illinois Galley Bay Resort & Spa St. John’s, Antigua Grace Bay Club Turks and Caicos Halekulani Honolulu, Hawaii Hotel 1000 Seattle, Washington Langham Place, New York, Fifth Avenue New York, New York Las Alcobas Mexico City, Mexico Le Guanahani St. Barthélemy, French West Indies Loews Regency New York New York, New York Loews Regency San Francisco…

Paige Russell of Austin, Texas, designed this Le Grande Zombi Scarf by cutting and arranging pieces of colorful construction paper into shapes of celebratory dancers, like a modern-day Matisse. Her inspiration? The festive spirit of NOLA and the work of folk artist William Hawkins. An image of a snake refers to 19th-century voodoo queen Marie Laveau’s pet serpent, a central symbol in the city’s Creole tradition. You’ll find the silk accessory at the recently opened Ace Hotel New Orleans. $112. shop.acehotel.com…

What can we order upstairs? Along with some of La Sirena’s sophisticated dishes, we’ve added room service standbys and have given them our own spin. Our drive-instyle burger is two patties of dry-aged beef, caramelized onions, and housemade pickles on a potato roll. What if I want something sweet? Our pastry chef, Michael Laiskonis, is a Zen master of sweetness and texture. His chocolate cream puffs are a revelation. They’re just like what you’d have in Lyon, France. What’s the last delicious thing you ate in a hotel room? When I recently arrived in my room at the Peninsula in Shanghai, there were hot dumplings and white burgundy on ice waiting for me. It was room service to the nth degree—a curious pairing, perhaps, but they are two of my…

THESE 13 UNFORGETTABLE EXPERIENCES WON’T WAIT. TAKE IN THE FEARSOME BEAUTY OF A MELTING GLACIER What’s the rush? Greenland’s Jakobshavn is the world’s fastestmelting glacier. By now you’ve likely read about Greenland. That it’s melting twice as fast as we had originally thought. That an iceberg the size of Manhattan recently vanished. But visiting and seeing the Earth evolve in real time is infinitely more powerful than words on a page. Every day, 170 feet of one particular glacier, Jakobshavn, melt away. This majestic block of ice is both ground zero for climate scientists and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Likewise, a trip there is a mix of shock and awe. There’s no better way to appreciate it than by touring with a scientist, which outfitter Cox & Kings can…

What’s the rush? With the city’s surging rents, let’s just say that if you want to drink at these bars, it’s a good idea to call ahead. It seems as though every other week, a San Francisco neighborhood bar that’s catered to passionate regulars for decades suddenly goes under to make way for a glitzy condo. It’s become the new norm in the rapidly gentrifying city where average rent for a one-bedroom has crept up to more than $3,000 a month. So hurry up and visit these classic watering holes while you can. 1. ZAM ZAM Moorish archways welcome you to this dive bar, built 75 years ago by Assyrian immigrants. Inside, you’ll find a mural of a Persian fairy tale. 2. AUNT CHARLIE’S House rule #1 at this cozy,…

What’s the rush? Iran’s relatively progressive regime is up for reelection next year. If it loses, everything could change. Tehran may not be where you’d expect to find a thriving avant-garde art scene—especially not one where women reign. But the election of a moderate leadership in 2013 opened the door for just that. Curator Faryar Javaherian, who has helped nurture this fragile movement, explains. What’s the role of women in Tehran’s art scene today? Iran is not like Pakistan or Saudi Arabia; women here have been emancipated for centuries. But when the revolution happened in 1979, many female artists left. Today, though, there are around 500 galleries in Tehran, many owned by women, most showing art by women. How did that change begin? In August 2013, Hassan Rouhani, who is…

SIT BACK, SQUINT YOUR EYES AGAINST THE SUN, AND behold THE STUNNING BOREDOM OF THE WESTERN KENYA BUSH. The intertwined zebras dozing, heads on each other’s backs, tails mindlessly wagging; the shade-seeking lions, flopped over like house cats; the contortionist leopards, wrapped in the trees, suspended. The mud-bathing buffaloes; the strolling, prehistoric rhinoceroses. Giraffes staring off into the middle distance, chewing cud. Floating crocodiles, drifting in the Mara River’s slow current. It is amidst this boredom, heavy enough to weigh on every animal in the valley, that you can engage in a kind of communion with the laziness: let the heat in, allow the body to slump against the seat of the car, stare off into the waving grass and sort out life’s big questions. In March, at the end…

I’VE NEVER BEEN partial to the 1,000 Places to See Before You Die books. I hope they’ve inspired people to travel, but the whole concept strikes me as grim, not to mention overwhelming. A thousand places? Even if I quit my job today (impossible) and started traveling nonstop (also impossible), I wouldn’t want to spend the rest of my days racing to cross destinations off a list. But hear enough reports about how places are changing—aspen trees dying in Aspen, Colorado; critically endangered black rhinos murdered by poachers in southern Africa—and travel feels more urgent than ever. Throw political and cultural shifts into the mix— the opening of Cuba and Burma to American travelers—and suddenly it seems like the name should be 1,000 Places to See Before They Change (see,…

1 POMEGRANATE INN A minimuseum, the Pomegranate Inn is filled with watercolors, sculptures, and several paintings by local abstract artist Frederick Lynch. From $199. 2 THE DANFORTH Built in 1823, the Danforth was a Prohibition hideout, a school, and an Episcopal rectory before it became a hotel. You’ll spot remnants of each in its nine rooms. From $439. 3 PORTLAND HARBOR HOTEL The convenient Portland Harbor Hotel is steps from the wharf and centrally located. Make use of the complimentary bikes and explore the historic Old Port neighborhood. From $339.…

AIPIM FRITO Fries made from starchy cassava. BOLINHOS DE BACALHAU Ubiquitous fritters made from salt cod. COXINHA Shredded chicken, onions, and, sometimes, a mild cheese are wrapped into a crunchy teardropshaped shell. EMPADA A meat-stuffed half moon– shaped pastry that’s similar to an empanada. FEIJOADA Pork-laced black bean stew—Brazil’s national dish— that’s served everywhere from pé-sujos to highend restaurants, and consumed no matter the temperature outside. FRANGO À PASSARINHO Batterless fried chicken served with a minimountain of garlic and parsley. PÃO DE QUEIJO Bite-size puffs made with (gluten-free!) cassava flour and Parmesan cheese. PASTEL Referred to as pastéis in the plural (and you will want more than one), this snack is a thin wonton filled with ground meat, cheese, hearts of palm, or shrimp. Heading to Rio for the Olympics?…

MY PARENTS WERE TRAVELING artists who brought me to Bali from Canada in 1981 when I was five months old. Back then, Ubud was a relatively peaceful town with the occasional traveler wandering through. It was really just a dirt road lined with beautiful temple gates and mud walls. I grew up outside of town in a home that overlooked a lush ravine. Instead of taking piano lessons or going to soccer practice, I learned Balinese dance and wood carving. When I slept over at my friend’s house in a nearby village, I’d help plant rice and slaughter ducks for the family’s smoked duck business. When I turned 14, I left the island for boarding school in California, then I went on to study fine art at Tufts in Massachusetts.…

What’s the rush? Master chefs from a Hong Kong institution are on the verge of retirement. The dirty secret of Hong Kong’s dim sum scene is that most places use the frozen stuff. Not so at Lin Heung, a celebrated classic. Its obsessive chefs have worked together for four long decades. Soon, master head chef Wong Kam Shing and his crew, now in their late 60s, will all retire together. When the next generation steps in, these refined creations just won’t taste the same. TINY BITES, LABORS OF LOVE 1. HAR GOW Done right, preparing shrimp dumplings requires razor focus. The shrimp is soaked and flavored so it’s plump to the touch and pops on the tongue. Chef Wong’s team actually calibrates the dough according to the day’s weather forecast.…

What’s the rush? There are fewer than 2,000 of these birds left in the Amazon. Were there ever a winged beauty that could convert the blasé crowd to Audubon members, it’s the “marvelous spatuletail” (that’s its official name) found in northern Peru. The hummingbird, with its punky purple crest, is as small as your thumb but moves with bravado. It’s all in the lengthy tail feathers. The males raise the spatulalike discs at the feathers’ tips, à la Dracula, over their head. They then frantically flap them while clicking with their beaks. Like many odd behaviors in life, it’s an attempt to win over a partner, the more demure female spatuletail. YouTube does not do this mating ritual justice, but sadly, if you don’t visit soon (try a 10-day tour…

ANGAMA MARA Book the same safari from this story and you’ll wake up to panoramic views of the Mara Triangle along with breakfast on the deck of a private, elegant tent cabin. From there, the day might unfold with a personally tailored game drive through the Mara, a visit to a Masai crafts studio, or a full-body massage in a serene outdoor setting. From $825 per person per night. angama.com SINGITA GRUMETI In the 10 years since Tanzania’s Singita Grumeti opened, the number of water buffalo in the area has increased sixfold. In addition, the lodge has partnered with the nonprofit Grumeti Fund to create sustainable living solutions for the community: vegetable gardens, chicken farms, and dozens of cleanwater boreholes. After a day of spotting wildlife, travelers have the option…

From JFK, you have seven uninterrupted hours before landing in Dublin to devote to The Little Red Chairs, a hypnotic new novel from 85-year-old Irish writer Edna O’Brien. The story starts with a stranger settling in a small Irish town and slowly intruding into the lives of several locals, including Fidelma, an unhappily married woman. Fidelma takes the stranger as her lover only to discover too late that he is a Balkan War criminal. In clear, unstinting prose, O’Brien traces Fidelma’s grim fall and slow redemption.…

In a Swiss workshop on a bank of the Rhine, IWC watchmakers have been piecing together reliable, easy-to-read pilot watches since the Allies first flew out to face Hitler. To this day, IWC’s Big Pilot watches are tricked out with superpowers that allow them to withstand a sudden drop in cockpit pressure or an icy plunge to 60 meters. And the titanium case back can take serious blows— a fall at airport security or a sudden closing of subway doors. The updated Top Gun model looks more handsome than ever with a dead-simple face, a black ceramic case, and an embossed calfskin strap. Meanwhile, inside, 311 parts silently spin and whir with tothe-millisecond Swiss precision.…

1 ADEGA PÉROLA One of Rio’s oldest bars, Adega Pérola serves all the traditional bar snacks plus more than 70 Portuguese-style seafood dishes, including vinegary raw herring rolls and octopus marinated in olive oil. Rua Siqueira Campos, 138, Copacabana 2 BAR URCA Each evening, revelers of all ages settle on the bayside wall outside Bar Urca and feast on the restaurant’s famous empadas filled with meat or seafood. The food is second only to the view of Rio’s skyline at night. Rua Cândido Gaffrée, 205, Urca 3 BAR DO DAVID Located in the Chapéu Mangueira community, Bar do David not only defies unsavory images associated with slums, but makes tongue-incheek reference to it: Try the “favela chic” plate of fried homemade sausages. On Sundays, feijoada gets an oceanic makeover with…

1 Taylor River Lodge COLORADO Cast for trout, hike through a canyon forested with aspens and evergreens, then retreat to your dreamy cabin and fall asleep to the sound of the current. Don’t Miss The cedar sauna and saltwater pool in the spa, where a hydraulic cantilevered door opens onto the river. From $1,720. 2 andBeyond Benguerra MOZAMBIQUE You can see the azure waters of the Bazaruto Archipelago’s secluded national park from these 10 thatchroofed casitas and three houses. Interiors combine tropical African design with flourishes from the country’s Portuguese heritage. Don’t Miss A bareback ride along the beach and right into the ocean. As your horse walks on the sandy floor of the shallow bay, both of you are buoyed by the warm salt water. From $765. 3 Tierra…

In a flat on Via della Scala in Trastevere, beamed ceilings run above mint-green walls, and a terrace faces historic Janiculum hill. The French-Italian owner embraces color, from magenta armchairs to a bathroom tiled in a blue the color of the Mediterranean. And her place can now be yours—she rents it out through OneFineStay, a vacation-home booking site that recently launched in Rome. High-quality linens and toiletries and 24-hour guest services are par for the course at the company’s rentals, now also available in London, New York, Paris, and Los Angeles.…

What’s the rush? In the next 30 years, reefs could die off faster than they can grow. At Australia’s most pristine dive spots, the truth of the constant headlines—MORE THAN HALF OF AUSTRALIA’S GREAT BARRIER REEF DAMAGED— can be hard to believe. For example, at Opal Reef off Queensland, you’ll still find a kaleidoscope of angelfish, anemones, and giant clams. “Everyone’s holding their breath and hoping the warning signs are wrong,” says John Rumney, owner of Eye to Eye Marine Encounters, which charters boats in the area. But the effects of warming water and polluted runoff are undeniable. In other parts of Queensland, you’ll find huge patches of lifeless bleached coral, boneyards on the ocean floor that cover 620 miles. Rumney, for one, isn’t just sitting around. After 30-plus years…

What’s the rush? Scientists have predicted it will shrink to the size of a pond by 2050. Wedged between the banks of Jordan and Israel, the famously salty Dead Sea is drying up. Why? For decades, industry has plundered the water— ten times saltier than the oceans— for its bounty of minerals. Unless a contentious $1 billion-replenishment plan is approved (and works), the sea will continue to vanish at a rate of 3.3 feet of depth per year. In the meantime, travelers have a small window to experience the greatest outdoor spa on Earth, to float in its fizzy hot waters and slather on mud loaded with these three (plus many more) restorative ingredients. WHAT’S IN THE PLANET’S MOST MAGICAL SEA? 1 SILICON DIOXIDE A mineral also found within 90…

What’s the rush? Go now, while the Rust Belt’s hip food, drink, and shopping scenes are at their peak. The abandoned factories of the Midwestern Rust Belt sat empty for decades until, in recent years, creatives types moved in. They’ve opened stylish new restaurants, shops, and art venues that have jump-started flatlining neighborhoods. You know when an area first heats up but isn’t overrun yet? That moment is now. Go before it's passed. 1 CINCINNATI: BEER PIONEER In its heydey, Cincinnati’s Over-the-Rhine neighborhood was home to 17 breweries, most of which specialized in clean, easy-drinking suds. Then, three years ago, Rhinegeist opened, and more offbeat stuff entered the equation. Try these two, which you can sample on one of the brewery’s tours: Truth, an unconventionally fruity IPA with a lean,…

PATAGONIA High Adventure Argentina’s Lakes District is all alpine meadows, graniteringed lakes, and snow-capped peaks. A five-day trek with Andes Cross includes the challenge of some major summits but also the comfort of meals and microbrews in mountain huts—and, for the brave, maybe a bracing dip in a glacier-fed lake. From $950. andescross.com SWITZERLAND Storybook Charm Dawn breaks in the Alps with fresh pastries, local cheeses, and views that preview the day’s plan: wandering mountain paths and meadows. A seven-day villageto-village trek with Alpinehikers includes homey touches like homemade iced tea brewed with herbs to quench your thirst along the way. From $3,595. alpinehikers.com TASMANIA Seaside Ramble Off Australia’s southern shore, Tasmania’s Bay of Fires is a remote stretch of white beach and granite painted orange with lichen. Tasmania Walking…