I CAN THINK of only one variety that, if tucked into a blind tasting, would be instantly recognizable by any wine dabbler who had tasted it even just once before: New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc. That's been true from its early days, 25 to 30 years ago, when the bright, flashy white took our beverage scene by storm with exuberant flavors of grapefruit, gooseberry, passion fruit, fresh-cut grass, bell pepper (stay with me here), jalapeño, and canned green beans … Enough Americans, apparently, embraced even the beans, because we began drinking rivers of the wine—and identifying the entire country of New Zealand with it.
America's thirst for Kiwi wine is stronger than ever (in fact, imports were up double digits in 2015). Prompted by that surge, I tasted more than a…
