Wanderlust -julkaisun September 2020 -irtonumeron sisällysluettelo

Are you travelling yet? As soon as lockdown lifted I whizzed up to a rainy but beautiful Cumbria for a few days and it was invigorating to be out somewhere different. Sadly, I didn’t get to try trekking with fell ponies (p62) but have added that to my wishlist for next time. I’m still to get on a plane but hope to before long. I find I’m missing airports; especially seeing all the place names on the departures board that always sends a pang of wanderlust through me. You’ve been telling us in your droves about some of the things you’ve been missing too (p13 & p90). I found myself smiling with recognition at so many of them, including the ‘numb bum’. We’ve loved hearing your tales of lockdown too…

Wanderlust aims to inform and inspire all your travel adventures. We strive to bring you the most trusted and reliable information in the world. That’s why we are always upfront about whether our writers have travelled independently or with a tour company. When a tour operator has been used, we always try to use those who’ve scored a minimum satisfaction rating of 85% from readers in our annual awards and we never guarantee positive coverage. Responsible, conscious and sustainable travel is at the heart of everything we do. THINK TRAVEL CONTENT MARKETING Looking for high-impact travel content? Think Travel produces customer magazines, supplements, digital content and influencer marketing for travel companies and organisations. For details, contact Chris Johnson (chris.johnson@thinkpublishing.co.uk). © Wanderlust Publications Ltd, 2020, ISSN 1351-4733 Published by Wanderlust Publications…

“Inspired by the Secret  Britain issue, I’ve walked the first 50 miles of the South Downs Way from Winchester to Amberley, camping along the way.” Cathy Hayward “Absolutely loved our trip to Colombia three years ago. What a gorgeous country. Very nice people. And I’ve not had a good bunuelo since!” Tatyana Fisher On Iceland: ”Looking forward to my bucket list trip there. Just me and my campervan!” Paula Munford On future travel: “Booked to go back to Gozo in August. Yay!” Michelle Goulding “Hooray! @ wanderlust-mag in a paper wrap helping me out with #PlasticFreeJuly” Tanya Boardman…

Laughs have been in short supply recently, which prompted us to revisit Romesh Ranganathan’s fresh and insightful travel series – only to find that the comedian had the same idea. Romesh used his lockdown to update his (mis)adventures to little-travelled places – Zimbabwe, Bosnia, Albania, Mongolia and the Arctic – with extra scenes and catching up with the people that he met along the way. You can catch with The Misadventures of Romesh Ranganathan: From My Sofa on iPlayer. The search for smiles led us to what is perhaps the year’s wierdest bit of travel inspiration: Eurovision Song Contest: The Story of Fire Saga (Netflix). Come for the daft musical parodies and killer elves, stay for the glorious scenery of Iceland and Edinburgh. Another TV show that really fired us…

BE A WARRIOR FOR A DAY Get to grips – quite literally – with Lofoten’s Viking history: row a ship, try archery and practice axe-throwing at the Lofotr Viking Museum, before exploring a reconstruction of an excavated Iron Age longhouse. lofotr.no GO SNOWSHOEING In winter you can trek through powdery snow in the woods on the outskirts of Svolvaer. Go during the day or hire a local guide through Lofoten Lights for a night time hike – you might spot animal tracks and see the lights. lofotenlights.com SEE THE LIGHT(S) Northern Norway remains one of the best places to see the aurora borealis. Boost your chances of experiencing them by staying in autumn or winter and booking a photography tour with Lofoten Tours. lofotentours.com…

VERDICT: Cosy Copenhagen’s your choice for city and coastal treats while Amsterdam’s a classic all-rounder: things to do, nightlife and the great outdoors. Both cities offer cycling nirvana and are handling COVID as well as can be expected, so the choice remains yours… DID YOU KNOW? Though the Netherlands definitely ‘wins’ on windmills (Zaanse Schans is just a short train or bike ride away from Amsterdam city centre), Copenhagen’s fortress, Kastellet, has a 17th century windmill of its own……

Georgia Hinkley, Africa Specialist at Imagine Travel, gives us her top tips for travel to Kenya… Where to go? First-time visitors cannot miss the Masai Mara. The wildlife is phenomenal, with impressive big cat sightings as well as the epic wildebeest migration. Other highlights include the more rugged Samburu in the north of the country and the palm-fringed Indian Ocean beaches. Best time to go? Kenya is a year-round destination, but you’ll want to travel from July to September if you’re hoping to see the wildebeest migration in action. I tend to avoid April, May and November, when rain is more likely. Top tip? Spend time in the Laikipia region. Comprised of a number of private conservancies, you can escape the crowds and enjoy fishing, safaris on foot and horseback,…

Grab your opportunity. When I was a young boy, tending my father’s cows, I’d see lots of animals and they fascinated me. Sometimes I’d see tourists in 4WDs and I’d watch the guides with envy. So I studied hard - you have to want to learn, studying every spare hour – and when I came to Kicheche Camps as a tent attendant I realised I wanted more. First I helped with walking safaris, and then I was given my chance to guide, an opportunity I grasped with both hands. “We saw a lion pride take down a young giraffe after trying to distract the mother for an hour” Reciprocity is critical. I learn a lot from interacting with different visitors and sharing. I love to learn from them and they…

1 Darwin may be world-famous for having conceived the theory of evolution, but a biologist called Wallace proposed it at the same time (p30) 2 Portugal’s iconic pastéis de nata (custard tarts) were first made by monks over 200 years ago (p74) 3 Who’d have thought that The Battle of Stalingrad performed by puppets would be a must-see in Tbilisi? (p92) 4 You can surf under Norway’s Northern Lights in the world’s most northerly surf resort, well above the Arctic circle (p20)…

If you’re one of the many who’ve (re)discovered cycling in recent months, then the next logical step is to go cycle touring, carrying everything you need with you. Known as ‘bikepacking’, it’s green, cheap and keeps you fit – what’s not to like? Fortunately there’s a brilliant online resource to get you started. Bikepacking.com is packed full of advice and reviews, plus it details recommended routes around the world ranging from overnighters and weekenders through to ‘Freakout’ big trips that would take months. We’re dusting off our pedals already.…

Seaweed can be used in the same way as moss to make an impromptu steamer and can lend an ocean aroma to the food. Classically, this method is used to steam shellfish or fish. Sea bass is especially wonderful cooked in this way. Method 1 First, you will need a fairly robust fire. If using driftwood, avoid wood that is polluted with oil or the food will be tainted and ruined. 2 Place a layer of seaweed on the fire, then lay a bed of wild fennel leaves onto the seaweed, followed by the fish, then more fennel and, finally, more seaweed. 3 Turn the fish once during cooking. It is done when the flesh is opaque and flakes easily when probed with the tip of a knife.…

Northern Norway has the largest population of white-tailed eagles in Europe, and birdwatchers may also see the (rather unfortunately-named) common shag. If you’re a seriously committed birder though, take a ferry from Bodø on the mainland to Lofoten’s most southerly islands, Røst and Skomvaer. Røst is only 3.6 sq km, but when it comes to birdlife it packs a punch – and September-October are the busiest months for birdspotters. Skomvaer is even more remote, reached by boat from Røst. Here you might see peregrine falcons, British storm petrels and Leach’s storm petrels. There are five bird cliffs between the two isles that together make up Scandinavia’s largest seabird colony, with chubby-cheeked Atlantic puffins being common spots over the summer.…

My South American trip started in Buenos Aires and went down to Ushuaia, across to Uruguay and then back to Argentina, to Chile, Bolivia and Peru. I was travelling for about four months before making it up to Ecuador. As I arrived, I started to see more news about coronavirus reaching South America. People were saying, ‘Maybe you won’t get to go to the Galápagos?’ I remember thinking, ‘Oh no, that’s the one place I wanted to go the most.’ At the airport to the Galápagos, they were already screening for the virus, but I made it to Santa Cruz safe and sound. Things were normal for the first couple of days. I could do the things that I wanted to, like scuba diving with the hammerheads – around 100…

Population: 1.1 million Languages: Georgian, Russian and English Time zone: GMT+4 International dialling code: +995 Visas: British passport holders and other EU nationals don’t currently require a visa for stays up to one year. Currency: Georgian Lari (GEL), currently around GEL 3.6 to the UK£. ATMs: Widely available throughout the city. Credit cards: Visa and MasterCard are readily accepted in hotels and restaurants. It’s useful to carry cash to use in cafés and taxis. Recommended guidebook: Bradt Travel Guides publishes a regularly updated guidebook to Georgia, which includes a detailed chapter on Tbilisi. Useful website: georgia.travel is Georgia’s official tourism site. It includes tips on what to see and do in Tbilisi, plus a helpful events calendar.…

Sue Watt Lake District Sue has a passion for wildlife and has been writing about African travel and conservation for over 12 years. For this issue, she stayed closer to home, walking and wild camping with the Lake District’s endangered Fell ponies (p62). Insider travel secret? “Sierra Leone has a lot to discover. Tacugama Chimpanzee Sanctuary would melt the hardest of hearts, and Tokeh Beach at sunset is just gorgeous.“ Mark Gilligan Viewfinder Photographer Mark shot a perfect rainbow in one of his areas of expertise: The Lake District (p10). Chalking up 45 years as a pro, Mark now also runs workshops in the Lakes and Snowdonia. Insider travel secret? “Research the location beforehand and once there, look for the unusual. Photographing at different times of day will produce more…

EPIC EXPEDITIONS Jopikgården Lodge opens in December on Sweden’s Hindersön Island – and you can only get there via an 8km road of ice. Once you’ve arrived, you can try snowshoeing, husky joring and (if you’re lucky) may see the northern lights too. Four-day trips from SEK12,750 (£1,133pp), based on two sharing; are available 18 Dec-15 Mar 2021. luleaarchipelago.com Meanwhile, Heritage Expeditions has launched In the Footsteps of Nordenskiöld, where you could spot polar bears, walrus and whales from the deck as you visit Nordenskiöld archipelago and Eurasia’s most northern point. The 19-day trip departs from Murmansk (12 Sept 2021); from US$13,900 (£10,955). heritage-expeditions.com Rock of Ages Congratulations to the Midlands. The Black Country is among the 15 new Global Geoparks recently announced by UNESCO, making it the UK’s eighth…

The Cubans: Ordinary Lives in Extraordinary Times Anthony DePalma £10, Penguin Random House With Cuba on the cusp of quietly ground-shaking change, Anthony wanders off the usual tourist itineraries to find out how whether the revolutionary spirit of the local people – to live better lives – has been crushed after a half-century of totalitarian rule. Subterranea: Discovering the Earth’s Extraordinary Hidden Depths by Chris Fitch £25, Wildfire Press The world beneath our feet contains illuminating insights into our past – from the Yucatan cenotes to Slovenia’s Postojna Caves – and also into our future, with places such as Helsinki’s Underground City. Chris visits 40 of these remarkable places, with glorious illustrations helping him shine a light for us. The Book of Trespass by Nick Hayes £14, Bloomsbury Publishing Going…

As the blazing sun sank towards the horizon, and the day started to cool, my trip-mates and I made the most of the pristine strip of white sand along the river Nile, kicking a football around or doing some yoga stretches. We’d spent a good hour cleaning the beach of plastic and other litter, and were now feeling the glow of virtue and a job well done. But then a felucca boat filled with a group of tourists pulled in, and the crew dumped a pile of plastic bottles and other trash on the beach. A couple of us went aboard and spoke to them. Chatting to the travellers, what struck me was how they had felt that dumping rubbish was wrong. But they hadn’t spoken up because they felt…

1 Feel truly festive Ethiopia £50 OFF What? Swap Santa Claus for something quite different next January. Genna is Ethiopian Christmas, when white-robed pilgrims flock to churches and spiritual music fills the air. Witnessing these celebrations can be combined with Timkat (Epiphany), 12 days later: head to ancient Axum, where the original Ark of the Covenant is believed to be kept, to watch costumed high priests parade with a replica, while the city erupts in dancing, chanting and song. The trip: A 16-day Festivals of Ethiopia small-group trip with Travel The Unknown costs from £3,795pp, excluding flights Suggested by… Rahul Aggarwal, Travel The Unknown Go to: 020 7183 6371, www.traveltheunknown.com 2 Do it all in a day South Africa What? There might be better-known national parks…

1 Horseriding... with a difference Gallop on a beach or climb a Lakeland peak on a magnificent Shire or Clydesdale horse (they make fell ponies look like midgets). Cumbrian Heavy Horses has experiences to suit all levels, including carriage driving for those who’d prefer not to climb onboard Britain’s biggest horses. cumbrianheavyhorses.com 2 Walking with wolves England’s last wild wolf was killed in Lakeland back in the 14th century. Based close to that spot, Predator Experience offer one-hour countryside walks with their wolf hybrid pack as you learn about the wolves. predatorexperience.co.uk 3 Take to the water  Ullswater Steamers’ cruises connect some of Lakeland’s most iconic walking routes, making a trip functional as well as enjoyable as you take in views of the valley. ullswatersteamers.co.uk 4…

ROUTE: Lisbon • Évora • Marvão • Estremoz • Monsaraz • Grândola • Mértola • Faro WHEN TO GO: Spring and autumn are best. Summers can be baking. WHY DO IT: For a multi-stop tour through sun-baked plains of cork-forest, historic towns, whitewashed villages, Moorish citadels and hilltops crowned with castles. Over the last few years the Alentejo – literally ‘beyond the Tagus’ – has become suddenly and unexpectedly popular. However, the region covers a huge area, about a third of the country but with barely a tenth of the population, so it still feels empty and in parts remote. A journey across the region between Lisbon and Faro in the Algarve, is the practical way to make the most of it. The unmissable marvel is Évora, a UNESCO World…

ROUTE: Lisbon • Alcobaça • Batalha • Tomar • Serra da Estrêla • Coimbra • Porto WHEN TO GO: Spring and autumn are best. WHY DO IT: The central regions, between the Tagus and Douro rivers, offer a window on Portugal’s national story, while some magnificent landscapes unfurl along the way. Driving north from Lisbon, sightseeing spectacles arrive thick and fast. Start with Alcobaça Monastery, raised in gratitude for victory over the Moors and best known for its effigies of star-crossed noble lovers Pedro and Inês, buried toe-to-toe. Next comes honey-coloured Batalha, the monastery built to give thanks for defeating the Castilian army in 1385. It holds some extravagant ‘Manueline’ architecture and the tombs of kings and queens. Head inland to Tomar, a riverside town dominated by the Knights Templar…

FREEDOM FIGHTING “I miss the freedom to go somewhere when you want to, like camping or a weekend break at a city hotel – we really don’t realise how something affects us until we can’t do it!” Julie Doré AUTOMATED REPLY “I’ve missed putting the ‘out of office’ on my work email...” Darren Sharp AIRPORT TAX “I have missed having a meal and a glass of wine in the airport.” Andrea Tabib ALARM CALL “I miss not having to set my alarm for at least a week and knowing I can just take each day as it comes.” Sue Murphy STRAP IN “I miss the little thrill of when the captain announces we’re starting the descent.” Michelle Watson INHALING “Hiking the mountains in the summer surrounded by flowers and then…