Wanderlust -julkaisun September 2019 -irtonumeron sisällysluettelo

Head deep into the land of the indigenous Guaraní tribe and uncover the ruins of Jesuit missions, built in the 17th century. Escaping the persecution of Spanish conquistadors who wanted to enslave them, the Guaraní were offered protection by the Jesuits – in exchange for adopting Christianity and building settlements. Nowadays, all that’s left of them is crumbling ruins, but you can still explore the site of the San Ignacio Miní mission and find the red ruins of the Baroque-style church – the sandstone settlement lights up at sunset.…

A million wildebeest storming through the dusty Serengeti. An enormous red sun rising on a golden horizon. An elephant mother caring for her calf at the edge of a watering hole. African safaris are full of these soul-stirring moments: the kind of experiences that can never be replicated and never forgotten. But Africa is a colossal continent with endless safari options. This can make planning a trip difficult, especially when you factor in the sheer variety of topography, wildlife and adventure available. Fortunately, the safari experts at Imagine Travel – an award-winning tour operator whose specialists have explored every corner of this vast and varied continent – have shared with us their best African safari advice. As Africa specialist, Joanna Hudson, says: “There’s something inherently simple but wonderfully special about…

Chef Sean Kuylen tells us how this coconutty fish broth celebrates the tropical nation’s history, culture and produce... “Everyone has a coconut tree in their backyard in southern Belize. Hot habanero peppers and sweet plantain grow plentifully in the Garifuna villages, too, often picked from the garden and thrown straight into a coconutty fish broth. Or, as the locals know it, sere lasus (soup) with hudut (ripe plantain). It’s the ultimate comfort food, sketching a portrait of my childhood in the village of Dangriga in just one bite. On Saturdays, the fishy broth is just what the villagers eat. No-one goes to supermarkets or chain restaurants. All the ingredients are organic; they are gathered in season, taken straight from the garden or farm. Sweet snappers and sea crabs are hooked…

Sun-bleached bones dot the dry, dusty dunes of Mongolia’s Gobi Desert; golden eagles prowl its blazing blue skies; and the thundering, ghost-like hooves of Genghis Khan’s army echo in the emptiness around you. But comfort in the wilderness awaits: a cluster of eco-conscious gers: round, felt tents, decorated warmly in the Mongolian tradition, with local materials and hand-painted interiors. This is the Three Camel Lodge. In the desert light, the only luxe lodge in the Gobi appears like a mirage, nestled between the Bayanzag cliffs and the Altai Mountains. It’s socially responsible, too – the solar-powered ger camp has banned plastic use, protects wildlife and uses profits to support struggling nomads in winter. Its remoteness doesn’t detract from its action-packed itinerary, offered via sister company Nomadic Expeditions. Hike across mountains…

1 Early birds Painted wolves follow a daily pattern of hunting at first light and at dusk. If your guide knows where the packs are, be sure to get up early – before dawn – to see them all returning from the hunt; their greeting ceremonies are a joy to watch and make for some beautiful images in the morning light. 2 Know your settings Make sure you’re familiar with your camera settings before you go out on safari; you don’t want to miss a fabulous shot of painted wolves playing together while you’re twiddling your dials. Autofocus can be tricky if the wolves are in wooded areas, so practice with manual focus. If you’re not keen on messing with a camera, leave it on sports mode to…

1 Antigua Central America’s most captivating colonial city is flanked by three volcanoes. 2 Tikal The lost city’s towering Maya temples and grand plazas loom out of a lush tropical setting. 3 Lake Atitlán One of the world’s most beautiful lakes is fringed with volcanoes and Maya villages. 4 Chichicastenango A mist-wreathed highland town famed for its colourful twice-weekly market. 5 Nebaj & the Ixil Triangle Three highland towns offering excellent trekking and a wealth of traditional Maya culture. 6 El Mirador This jungle-shrouded ‘lost city’ can be reached by a long hike or (if you’ve got the cash to spare) a short helicopter ride. 7 Livingston Take a boat ride down the Río Dulce to the home of the Garifuna, a Caribbean…

1 Snorkel with seals Enjoy face to fin encounters with friendly Atlantic grey seals. October is probably the best time to jump in as there are newborn pups to spot and the water still holds the summer’s warmth. (scillydiving.com) 2 Visit artists’ studios The isles have a well deserved reputation for arts and crafts. Visit some of the many studios to meet the artists and find the best possible memento to take home. Oriel Hicks of stained-glass fame is found at the Phoenix Studios just outside Hugh Town. 3 Go birdwatching Upwards of 400 different species have been recorded on the islands, more than any other single site in Europe. Spring and autumn are best for migratory birds, with October particularly good for finding rare birds, but…

KANSAI Where to stay? ○ In Kobe: Towering above the waterside Meriken Park and 'Harbourland', Okura Hotel has bedroom views facing either the mountains or the ocean. kobe.hotelokura.co.jp/en ○ In Toyooka: Koyado Enn, a traditional ryokan inn in Kinosaki. You can borrow a yukata for free, plus get a ticket to Kinosaki’s bathhouses. koyado.net/english ○ In Kyoto by the Sea: Hoshino-Oto at Marinetopia Resort – elegant suites beside the shore in Miyazu, with private hot spring baths and infinity pools (hoshinooto.jp/en). Cool ‘glamping’ options are also available in bubble-like pods. marinetopia-suite.com /en Where to eat? ○ In Kobe: Wakkoqu, where the skilled chefs delicately slice and cook Kobe 'Wagyu' beef in front of you. wakkoqu.com ○ In Toyooka: Sanpou-Nishimuraya, in Kinosaki, with English-speaking staff and a menu featuring Tajima beef…

1 BELARUS  Belarus’s Palieski State Radioecological Reserve is a unique wildlife sanctuary. It’s Europe’s biggest wilderness – civilisation has been swallowed up and boars and bison roam freely. Strict safety protocols are in place here, but visitors can go on eco-tours for short periods of time. 2 KIEV (Ukraine) If the thought of a trip to Chernobyl unnerves you, try Ukraine’s capital, instead – Kiev’s National Chernobyl Museum opens eyes to the cause of the meltdown and its aftermath. Then climb the bell tower of iconic St. Sophia’s Cathedral – a great city view is your reward. 3 EXCLUSION ZONE (Ukraine) Wildlife is slowly reclaiming this area: wolves and stray dogs are increasing, free from human intrusion. Head to the Red Forest and you’ll see that rare…

To the Island of Tides: A Journey to Lindisfarne Alistair Moffat Canongate Books £20 Not all journeys need to be ‘epic voyages’. Sometimes, travelling the lands that you already know can be just as rewarding. This proves to be the case for Alistair Moffat, who sets off from his beloved Scottish Borders and crosses into England towards the tidal island of Lindisfarne, off the Northumberland coast. Moffat knows this neck of the woods extremely well. The Scottish historian has been writing extensively about his homeland and its history for over 30 years, culminating in 2017’s much-garlanded The Hidden Ways: Scotland’s Forgotten Roads, which took him off-the-beaten track to reveal a rich seam of lost local detail. “As modern pilgrims walk in the footsteps of great saints, they feel more than…

As well as using gear that’s designed to protect you from biting insects there are a few other things you can do to reduce the risk of getting bitten. …Consider your colours For some reason the little biters (in particularly mosquitos) are attracted to dark colours such as blue and black so go for lighter colours such as beige, white or khaki, which, as an added bonus, will also help keep you cool in the sun. …Think about what you drink Very sugary drinks will attract wasps and flies, but if you are longing for sugar go for lemon (notice that a lot of natural repellent includes citronella) to improve your chances of enjoying your meals bug-free. …Check the time Mosquitos (much like photographers) like the early morning and early…

Sue Watt Zimbabwe feature Wildlife conservation has always fascinated travel writer Sue. In this issue, she fulfilled a 16-year-long dream – spying the bold and beautiful painted wolves of Zimbabwe’s Mana Pools NP (p46). My first great rail trip: “Zimbabwe’s Stimela Star, a restored vintage train running overnight from Victoria Falls to Hwange NP. It’s not luxury, but it’s fun, with bags of character. It’s a brilliant way to start a safari.” Nicholas Dyer Zimbabwe feature Wildlife photographer Nick’s address is often ‘A Tent Somewhere in Africa’ – but his passion lies in capturing the character of Mana Pools NP’s painted wolves (p46). My first great rail trip: “The Lunatic Express – a nocturnal adventure from Nairobi to Mombasa in run-down luxury. It ends as the languid locomotive greets the…

Dragoman are offering two places on their 23-day group tour through Argentina and Chile, including a £500 voucher for your flights. For a chance to win, just answer the following question: In which year was the Torres del Paine National Park established? (a) 1919 (b) 1939 (c) 1959 To enter and for full terms and conditions and data policies, go to wanderlust.co.uk/ competitions or send youranswer to the Wanderlust office (p. 9); state ‘more info’ if you want to be contacted by Wanderlust and Dragoman Overseas Travel Ltd. The closing date is 4 September 2019.…

GET UP CLOSE Located on the banks of the Iguazú River, the Awasi Iguazú eco-resort is a jungle paradise. Secretive jaguars and ocelots prowl close by, and it’s not far from the falls, either – ideal for the early risers who want near-exclusive access to them. GEM OF A FIND Feel amethyst, topaz and agate under your fingers at the Wanda mines, just a short bus ride south of the falls. Named after a mythical Polish princess, the caves are full of semi-precious stones and can be navigated with a local guide. MONKEYING AROUND Visit the land of the capuchin monkey on the park’s Macuco Trail, which ends at Arrechea Falls. Spot the curious primates travelling in troops, munching on jungle fruit. They’re cute – but don’t feed them!…

Imagine Travel is an award-winning tailor-made tour operator specialising in holidays to Africa, Asia and the Americas. They are known for their honest advice, exceptional value and the very best customer service: part of the reason they have a Feefo ‘customer review’ score of 4.9/5. They also have a handy travel app so you can access your trip information from anywhere. No matter what kind of African adventure you want to embark on, they are the experts to make it happen.…

Across the car park, shamans weaved their magic. The blood of a luckless chicken was sprinkled on to one of a trio of fires and the air was filled with acrid smoke and the competing aromas of tobacco, incense and pine. Inside the simple candlelit temple, believers waited patiently in line to climb the stairs to the effigy of Maximón (aka San Simón) to put in their requests and deposit their offerings of alcohol, tobacco and food. Depending on who you speak to, this hard-drinking, heavy-smoking deity – a moustachioed man in a smart black suit and hat, often with a cigar clamped between his teeth – is either a saint or the devil. He may share his temple with more traditionally dressed saints but the walls, plastered with everything…

1 Space Center Houston Admire the rockets and moon rocks on display before taking in the Mission Control room at the centre of the Apollo 11 moon landing. This is the year to visit, 50 years on from that 1969 milestone. 2 Houston Livestock Show & Rodeo Every March, Houston returns to its true Texan roots with this massive three-week fair of everything cowboy. Expect plenty of ranching skills on display, plus some classic country ‘n’ western. 3 The Houston Astros Immerse yourself in one of Houston’s most spirited crowds at Minute Maid Park, where you can sit in the huge stands, order a corn dog and soak up the energy of the Houston Astros baseball team. There’s a reason the fans are so happy: their team recently won the…

Only Japan a ferry have an open-air hot spring bath to soak in as the ocean glides by. The overnight Hankyu Ferry connects Kansai and Kyushu in around 12 hours, meaning you can set off from either Kobe or Osaka in the evening and arrive in northern Kyushu the next morning (or vice versa). Private, comfortable rooms are available on board, with large windows and western-style beds. Prices start from 6,470JPY (£47) but if you book your ticket through directferries.com you can get up to 30% off. han9f.co.jp/en…

A DRY SPELL “It has to be Victoria Falls. I looked at a sheer wall of rock, wondering where the falls were. It turned out it was the dry season!” Lance Bellers THUMBS DOWN “I took my young son to the Colosseum in Rome but he seemed really disappointed when we were there. I later discovered that he was still expecting it to be in use, with lions and crocodiles!” Isla Jarvis-Versnick THIRD TIME LUCKY “I was jogging Copacabana Beach when I put my right foot into a huge pile of dog mess. I cleaned up, jogged on and did the same again with my left foot!” Nino Amoroso NOTRE DAMN! “Wandering the city of Le Havre, I saw a sign pointing to Notre Dame Cathedral (pictured). I was disappointed…

Tom Harari, product manager at Exodus Travels, tells us about exploring the Rainbow Nation When to go… South Africa’s seasons are the opposite to the UK’s; that said, it’s a year-round destination. If you’re after whales, head to the Cape from August to November. Where to go… The Rainbow Nation has something for everyone. Wildlife lovers should head to the Kruger, trekkers to the Drakensberg Mountains and foodies to the winelands in Cape Town. Indulge in food… South Africans love good food, good wine and braais (barbecues). Meat eaters should definitely try kudu, eland or ostrich. Vegetarians are also well catered for, especially in cosmopolitan Cape Town. See the world on two-wheels… The Garden Route is one of the most picturesque coastal routes in the world and is worth doing…

A Hitch in Time Andy Smart AA Publishing, £10 Road trips don’t come more fun than a 72,000-mile hitch-hiking escapade from Liverpool to Pamplona. But that’s exactly what comedian Andy Smart (a long-standing member of The Comedy Store Players in London) embarked upon in the late 70s, spending six years living life from one bizarre situation to the next. Whether he’s running with the bulls in Pamplona or placating rifle-wielding hotel guests in the Pyrenees, things often gets out of control, but Andy’s say-yes philosophy always manages to save the day, charming any reader who dares to join him on this cheerful ride back into a more innocent time. From the Lion’s Mouth: A Journey Along The Indus Iain Campbell Bradt Travel Guides, £10 Travelling along the sacred Indus River…

Wanderlust aims to inform and inspire all your travel adventures. We strive to bring you the most trusted and reliable information in the world. That’s why we are always upfront about whether our writers have travelled independently or with a tour company. When a tour operator has been used, we always try to use those who’ve scored a minimum satisfaction rating of 85% from readers in our annual awards and we never guarantee positive coverage. Responsible, conscious and sustainable travel is at the heart of everything we do. Website Discover more great content at www.wanderlust.co.uk Twitter Catch up on the latest travel gossip @wanderlustmag Instagram See behind the scenes @wanderlustmag Facebook Join the chat at www.facebook.com/wanderlusttravel magazine Newsletter Sign up to our newsletter for offers, inspiration and all the latest…

Recalling some great Sicilian meals: Accursio restaurant in Modica served the best food that I’d ever eaten.” @delboy2828 Recalling your favourite Greek islands: We went to Lefkada for our tenth wedding anniversary. It was everything and more. Really happy memories.” @JillJJ01 Rating the palace hotels of Rajasthan: “I prefer the smaller ones. The hotel chain-owned ones are more bling than heritage, hence a magnet for celebs.” John Devereux Taking time to smell the flowers in Morocco: “Kalaat M’Gouna is so dependent on roses that even the taxis are bright pink.” @riadellaadel…

INTO THE DEEP STUDY HUMPBACK WHALES, ANTARCTICA Learn all about these creatures of the deep on The Antarctic Peninsula Whale Science Voyage by Polar Latitudes with Polar Routes. Ardent citizen scientists can participate in this unique voyages during peak whale-watching season. You’ll get to assist on crucial oceanic research and spy humpbacks and minke whales socialising in the Bransfield Strait and Wilhelmina Bay. The Lemaire Channel promises to steal the show – see the great glaciers and snowy slopes reflected in the still waters, while looking out for the water blows disrupting the stillness. Who? Polar Routes (polarroutes.co.uk; 020 3196 1000) When? 27 February – 11 March 2020 How long? 13 days How much? From £12,899 (including int’l flights) Key whales seen: Humpbacks, minke and orca whales WILD WORLD PURSUING…

“Fear is an important part of a good adventure” Do you think busking is a good way of experiencing a place? Busking was a brilliant way of giving me a flavour of Spain and it forced vulnerability, which is one of the most important tools for having a good adventure. The only risk is that unless you’re good, you’re not going to have much money, so you don’t get to experience the nice food and hotels. Hopefully, one day I’ll go back to Spain and gorge on some nice wine and tapas. Would you like to go back and do it differently? I’d never been to north-west Spain before Galicia, but I loved it! It was green and often reminded me of the Yorkshire Dales. I really would love to…

AT A GLANCE Hanoi Population 7.78 million Total area 3,329 sq km Famous for Pho soup, pagodas, the resting place of ‘Uncle Ho’, tai chi by Hoan Kiem Lake and water puppets Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon) Population 8.64 million Total area 2,061 sq km Famous for Fox holes, war museums, the Reunification Palace and boat trips on the Mekong Delta DID YOU KNOW? When Communist leader Ho Chi Minh died in 1969, a team from the USSR flew in to embalm him (a la Lenin) , but his body wasn’t unveiled at Hanoi’s Mausoleum until after the Vietnam War, so US troops couldn’t capture it. HANOI HO CHI MINH CITY…

The author travelled with African Bush Camps (africanbushcamps.com, 0800 041 8187), which offers a fully inclusive tailor-made trip to Mana Pools, including three nights at Kanga Camp and three nights at Nyamatusi. The trip costs US$9,860 (£7,878) per person, depending on season and the number of guests, excluding international flights but including return flights from Harare to Mana Pools. This also includes Nick Dyer as a private guide with a private vehicle. The author also flew to Harare via Nairobi with Kenya Airways (kenya-airways.com); return flights cost from around £690.…

The firefly danced in the dark above me. I didn’t notice it at first, too caught up in the rest of the scene – the gentle croaking of frogs, the bubbling waterfall and the silky hot water that enveloped me. I was lying in a rotenburo – an open-air hot spring bath – in the mountain-clad town of Kurokawa, on Japan's Kyushu island. As I sank deeper into the warm water, I met the eyes of an old woman on the other side of the bath. I pointed at the firefly, hoping to share my excitement with someone, but she just nodded as if it was the most normal thing in the world. I guess to her this was just everyday life. Experiences like this are common in Japan, if…

Many major cities have poor air quality; the worst are mostly in Asia but the problem is global (see, for example, airvisual.com/air-quality-app). The chemical composition of pollutants, caused by motor exhausts and industry, is complex, and ‘particulate matter’ (PM) can be used as a proxy for all kinds of urban air pollution. Air quality counts assess particulate matter that is less than 2.5 microns in diameter (PM2.5) and also particulate matter that is less than 10 microns across (PM10) – a human hair is about 50 microns in diameter. The larger particles lodge in the lungs while PM2.5 are small enough to enter the circulation when inhaled and are even more harmful to health. These particles are invisible, tasteless and odourless. The WHO suggest PM2.5 daily counts should be below…

• Eurostar: Last-minute one-way tickets go from about £25 on Eurostar Snap; you just need to be flexible about when you set off, as you can only book for ‘morning’ or ‘afternoon’. snap.eurostar.com • Budget rail: France’s Ouigo (ouigo.com) expanded to Toulouse in July, halving the usual TGNF fare from Paris by stopping at ‘secondary’ hubs (from €65/£58). Flixbus, a Europe-wide budget bus company, has also added a train service in Germany (and is set to expand across Europe by 2021) to its ‘five cities for €99/£88’ pass. interflix.flixbus.com • Gap month: Should Brexit drag on (and who would bet against it), the EU’s scheme to offer thousands of 18-year-olds across Europe a free Interrail pass for a month will continue to please young travellers. europa.eu/youth/discovereu_en • Single-country passes: Most…

This issue: Beat the bugs LIFESYSTEMS Arc Self Supporting Mosquito Net, £40 This mossie net has a lightweight aluminium frame so you can use it on most beds – single and double – with no need for hanging points. It’s impregnated with repellent and has two zipped entrances. www.lifesystems.co.uk ROHAN Trail Hooded Top, £70* Made with Insect Shield treatment and a UPF 40+ fabric, this hoodie is ideal for cooler climates. It’s stretchy, lightweight, quick-drying and has a zipped security pocket on the side. www.rohan.co.uk MOUNTAIN WAREHOUSE 2-in-1 Lantern and Mosquito Killer, £40 This multi-tasking, water-repellent light not only has three brightness settings and a UV light to attract and kill mossies (runs for 30hrs) but also lets you to charge (via USB) your phone. Genius. www.mountainwarehouse.com LIFESYSTEMS Bed Bug…

1 Find ancient forests The high plateau of Fanal is home to some of Madeira’s finest, UNESCOlisted laurissilva, the primary laurel forest that cloaked much of southern Europe 40 million years ago but is exceptionally rare. A great place for fairytale walks among crooked, beardy trees. 2 Eat & drink local Must-trys include espada (an ugly scabbard fish), espetada (beef skewers) and bolo de caco, traditional muffin-like breads typically smothered in garlic butter. To wash it down, order Madeiran wine or a super-sweet poncha, a cocktail of aguardente de cana brandy, honey, sugar and lemon juice. 3 Hike a levada The paths alongside Madeira’s irrigation channels provide fantastic hiking routes (pictured top). Pick up a copy of Madeira Walks (Trailblazer, 2018), which lists 37 good strolls for all…

Population: 1.33 million Language: English Time zone: GMT›8 (GMT›7 Mar–Oct) Int’l dialling code: +1 (619) Visas: Not required by UK nationals. You will need to obtain an ESTA before arrival; these cost US$14 (£11) and are valid for two years. Get one at the official site: esta.cbp.dhs.gov/esta Currency: US dollar (US$), currently around US$1.29 to the UK £. ATMs are plentiful and tipping is expected. Getting there: British Airways (ba.com) flies direct to San Diego from London Heathrow daily, arriving in late afternoon. Prices from £366 return. Best viewpoint: From Cowles (pronounced ‘coals’) Mountain, north-east of the city, you’ll get views of the entire area and – on a clear day – over to Mexico. Health issues: None. But travel insurance is wise. Tap water is safe to drink. Recommended…