Getaway -julkaisun September 2022 -irtonumeron sisällysluettelo

In Palau’s Jellyfish Lake, GOLDEN JELLYFISH follow the path of the sun on a daily migration route that takes them on a horizontal journey, stopping just short of the shadowy region where their main predators – anemones – live. They take a break while the sun is high and then head back to the other side of the lake Every year, in one of many unexplained migrations the usually solitary giant kingfish gathers with other kingfish and journeys far inland, up the Mtentu River in the Eastern Cape Zooplankton such as krill, are unlikely MIGRATORY ANIMALS yet their vertical movement in the ocean in search of food is considered the largest natural daily movement of biomass on Earth Caribou, or reindeer, take part in the planet’s longest land migration Over three months, they…

Cyprus, mythological birthplace of the goddess Aphrodite, is nearer Syria than it is to Europe and although itʼs deemed part of the Middle East, it is infused with the languages, cultural traditions and culinary heritage of both Greece and Turkey, ensuring that this island in the eastern Mediterranean has a distinctive flavour all of its own. Orthodox churches, ivy-clad stone houses, sun-soaked Ottoman castles, ancient vineyards producing powerful wines, clear waters supplying fresh seafood and – like Greece – folkloric ouzeri, taverns where itʼs all about shared meze, tumblers of barrel wine and ouzo shots. Raised by his Orthodox (and old-fashioned) Cypriot grandparents, Nic Charalambous got an early start in the kitchen, his memories overrun with foodcentric family gatherings and meals on trips to Cyprus and the Greek isles. He…

Seeing my first white shark was really the first time I had an ʻoh shitʼ moment in the ocean. Iʼve been diving since 2016, and had never had any typical fear of marine life. I was in a cage in Mossel Bay, filming for the Discovery Channel and looking for these white sharks to tag. I wasnʼt sure if Iʼd be happier in or out of that cage. It was a breathtaking moment – finding her, tagging her… and then I nearly lost my mind when she was named after me. Whatʼs funny about Zandi the shark is that she disappears for days and then she shows up out of nowhere. Anyone close to me knows that I donʼt necessarily stay in one place for a long time. Iʼm always…

The forecast promised highs in the balmy mid-20s. Considering that it was slap bang in the middle of winter, dawnʼs 19°C was hardly cool. The soundtrack, though, suggested a wailing banshee kicking about in one of the resortʼs pools. A glance outside and there was indeed a threatening gale, the usually flat blue-green lagoon chopped up into row upon row of line-dancing seahorses disrupting the tropical colour scheme as the wind unapologetically redistributed beach sand and frightened the palm trees. It was not what you anticipate on a tropical island holiday. But, of course, being an island, the weather can come at you from every angle; it can turn unexpectedly, get wild and hairy. Mauritius is known for its cyclones, after all. Wild wind notwithstanding, the lagoonʼs gorgeousness was indisputable…

We passed the turn-off to Sun City, a place I was a little too familiar with. When I had worked in Johannesburg back in the ʼ90s, that was as far as my weekend escapes took me. If only I had known what lay beyond. Rounding the Pilanesberg, I regaled my wife, Sarah, with Sun City stories – a blur of rock concerts, feathered dancers, shiny coins and spinning wheels. When the hills were behind us I finally shut up and we were quiet and reflective, inspired by the rust-coloured landscape more than the gambling palace. People gambled here too, you could tell by the dusty pastures for small herds of goats and cattle. Villages became more spartan; wood and daub replaced brick. After going through Molatedi Gate on the edge…

Stay Here LETSATSI LODGE Vanrhynsdorp is the gateway town to the region and there’s no better stop than at this legendary outpost. Both the accommodations and the Red Ox Steakhouse (with classic local dishes such as marrow bones on toast) have become rightly “famous”. Unparalleled hospitality is guaranteed – you just have to stop here. Chalets and luxury tents from R765 pp pn, villas from R1 200 pp pn 027 219 2828 ncfamouslodges.co.za BRANDKOP A working farm in the rugged hills north of Nieuwoudtville, close to its waterfall and quiver tree forest. Daisies, succulents, bulb species and other wildflowers add splashes of colour to the terrain surrounding the large farm house and private cottages, and there are fine mountain biking and hiking trails here on the Namaqua plateau. From R450…

Weʼd been bouncing along in shuddery zig-zags, drifting on a sea of marshmallows. And now we were going over the edge, tipping into a vertical plunge. Caught on that zany tightrope between terror and elation, I let out a tiny, unexpected swearword and our Land Cruiser erupted with laughter muffling our screams of wide-eyed panic. This wasnʼt the adrenaline spike of fear, though, but the dilly delight of a rollercoaster ride. At the wheel was Zahidullah Muhammad, a strapping Pakistan-born 4×4 expert with a square jaw and rock star swagger. Man, can he drive. ʻAll the ladies ask for pictures with him,ʼ piped up Saleh Abujundy from the back seat. Saleh, our tour guide, had “played the dunes” with Zahid countless times before, and didnʼt flinch as we nosedived into…

Zandile Ndhlovu TALES OF A BLACK MERMAID (P 22) South Africaʼs first black freediving instructor, Zandi is a storyteller, conservationist, public speaker, emerging filmmaker and founder of the Black Mermaid Foundation. Sheʼs been a self-confessed ocean-addict since 2016, and spends every minute convincing others to get a healthy dose of vitamin-sea. Through her foundation, she works to create diversity in ocean spaces by changing narratives and encouraging people of all backgrounds to get into the water. Sheʼs so cool, she even has a shark named after her. @zandithemermaid Alan Valkenburg THE KINDEST CUT (P 62) Being sent to the Pilanesberg to witness rhino dehorning triggered a lot for Alan. As he watched folks having photos taken with the drugged and prone rhinos he struggled to make peace with the casual…

1 September 1939 World War II begins with Adolf Hitler’s invasion of Poland. It ends on 2 September 1945 with Japan’s surrender. 4 September 1998 Google is founded in California, United States. 7 September 1936 The last Tasmanian tiger dies at Hobart’s Beaumaris Zoo, one of the few occasions the extinction of a species can be dated. 7 September 1986 Desmond Tutu becomes the first black leader of South Africa’s Anglican Church after being elected Archbishop of Cape Town. 8 September 1986 The Oprah Winfrey Show airs for the first time, becoming the most popular daytime talk show and running for 25 years. 13 September 1970 LSD advocate Timothy Leary (who famously coined the phrase ‘Turn on, tune in, drop out’) breaks out of prison and escapes to Algeria. 14 September 1959…

1. KWAZULU-NATAL Sodwana Bay is such an incredible place – you can come across anything there. And Aliwal Shoal is absolutely loved by sharks (like the blacktips pictured above). 2. CAPE TOWN The kelp forests blew my mind, and I’m still mindblown by them. 3. EGYPT Two spots – Dahab and Ras Muhammad – have the most magnificent coral life and crystalclear warm water, plus incredible wrecks. 4. MARICO OOG This freshwater spring in North West province is absolutely beautiful. It’s crystal clear and is a great place for beginners to learn. 5. EAST AFRICA Kenya is very similar to Sodwana. You see a lot of paper fish – they come in various colours: pink, purple, black and white. Mozambique is magical, too. And special mention has to go to…

1 | FireFly Biofuel Organic FireSpark Jnr R59, faithful-to-nature.co.za Burn time: 15 minutes Made with recycled wood, coffee grounds, sugar and vegetable wax, these firelighters have no residual chemicals or smells. The coffee component acts as a natural bug repellent and the doughnut shape enhances the lifespan and burn time. This burnt for the longest time by a fair margin, although it didn’t light easily – it has a wick, but I had to light it from a lighter directly. 2 | Fire Brick Re-usable Firelighters R169, faithful-to-nature.co.za Burn time: 6 minutes A lockdown invention, these fire bricks are made of a hydrous phyllosilicate (vermiculite), a heat resistant substrate that is porous and can absorb paraffin. When the paraffin runs out, you can refill with a top up juice (R70). Each…

The tiny rhino calf made her way along the dusty dirt road, sprinting as if her life depended on it. For all she knew, it did. Sheʼd just witnessed her mother being darted and now the noisy flying machine was chasing her. No taller than a medium sized dog, she was small but solid; one day she would pack the power of a tank. Right now, though, she was just a tiny calf, squealing in terror. The chasing chopper dipped its nose, increasing the volume and spray of dust, the tumult from its rotor blades creating in the rhino a blind panic. As she rounded the corner, the telltale pink fluff of the tranquiliser dart protruding from her rump revealed that she, too, had been darted. She wouldnʼt be on…

Madikwe is 400km from Joburg via Sun City or Zeerust, about a four-and-a-half-hour drive. From Molatedi Gate, the time to each lodge varies (a map is provided). You may drive to and from your lodge but game drives are for safari vehicles only. A far quicker way of getting there is in a small plane, operated by Federal Airlines. Forget the ratrace feel of OR Tambo – you catch your flight at Hanger 14, a private terminal on the far edge of the runway, enjoying personalised pre-boarding service (smiles, free drinks, snacks in the lounge or in the garden); then a short and shuddery taxi along the tarmac before the one-hour flight to one of two bush airstrips (Madikwe East or Madikwe West) where a vehicle and ranger will be…

SANNABIS CUP 3 September The South African Cannabis Cup is an open entry growers cup and festival. With a range of prizes from best local strain to best edible – how they judge them all in one day, we don’t know. Tickets from R200 for the event in Johannesburg. sannabiscup.com DARLING WILD-FLOWER SHOW 16–18 September The West Coast puts on a colourful display when spring arrives, and the various species of flowers in the Darling region are collected in a condensed exhibition. darlingwildflowers.co.za COMIC CON AFRICA 22–25 September Don’t just play games, live them. Local and international comic book creators and fans gather at The Johannesburg Expo Centre. There’s a cosplay championship, too. Tickets from R190. comicconafrica.co.za DELICIOUS INTERNATIONAL FOOD AND MUSIC FESTIVAL 24–25 September One of South Africa’s biggest…

FOLLOW US NEED MORE TRAVEL INSPO? getaway.co.za @GetawayMagazine The ferry to Jura boasted the proud lines and facilities of a pontoon barge, and Fiona and I sheltered from the tempest in what resembled a bus shelter. Fortunately, there were no other passengers and the crossing took 10 minutes. Disembarking at Feolin, we were spared excess fanfare or formalities. The skipper gesticulated for us to push our bicycles down the gangplank and up the concrete slipway. With only one road to choose from – a single-track lane, grandly designated the A846 – we wobbled into the head-on gale, our cycles heavily weighted with panniers, which stopped them blowing away, but limited forward momentum. We were touring the Scottish isles by bicycle; a capital idea, when planned somewhere warm and afar. Primarily…

Traceability at Your Fingertips Traceability adds to the enjoyment of a meal… like scanning a barcode at Steenberg’s Bistro Sixteen82 in Tokai, Cape Town and learning that the Cape bream on your plate was wild-caught in Lambert’s Bay the day before. Abalobi, which means “fishermen” in isiXhosa, empowers consumers and fishers. Kerry Kilpin, executive chef at Sixteen82 and at Tryn, Steenberg’s other restaurant, has been involved with Abalobi from its inception and is passionate about its use as a way of safeguarding the abundance of our waters while ensuring that fishers and diners are kept in the loop. The Abalobi platform has recently been opened to home cooks as well. ‘We started off in the hospitality and restaurant industries but during Covid were forced to create an offset for fishermen…

For the current season of our legendary Getaway photography competition we’re shaking things up a bit. Not to rock the boat, but to stimulate photography’s growth. While we’re still rewarding the very best pictures with incredible prizes, we’ll also be acknowledging creativity in a handful of genre categories. As always, we’ll continue to seek out the finest wildlife shots in Africa, acting as a platform for the talented photographers who’ve been contributing to our competition for decades. Wildlife will continue to be a focus but we want to share this platform with other photographers, too, and create a space for up- and-coming snappers to share their shots. Send your entries to gallery@getaway.co.za; find the full rules at getaway.co.za/photo/send-us-your-photos PICK YOUR GENRE When entering your pictures, we encourage you to select…

FOLLOW US NEED MORE TRAVEL INSPO? getaway.co.za @GetawayMagazine Another day. Another beautiful dirt road. And not a cooking clue what may be waiting around the next corner. Thatʼs the Namaqua West Coast for you: forgotten dorps, 360-degree skylines, salt-of-the-earth locals and back roads where you might not see another car for 50km. Many miss out on the earthy magic of this space; most are too busy blasting along the N7 highway, heading for far-away Namibia or the Kgalagadi. But those in the know watch for the Maskam massif rising up in the east as soon as they trip past Trawal. Why not duck off the tarmac and play gravel-travel roulette, following peeling signs to places with fabulously whimsical names. Think Vondeling and Douse-The-Glim, or Urionskraal, Loeriesfontein, or even Baie Vlei.…

A Cellar Pioneer Winemaking stretches back four centuries in South Africa, but the demographic has only truly shifted in the past decade or so. ‘The 20-year-old me would be amazed and in awe,’ says Ntsiki Biyela who, in 2016, became South Africa’s first black female winemaker and also established Aslina Wines, which she named after her grandmother. ‘Before studying oenology in Stellenbosch, I’d never had wine,’ says Ntsiki. ‘Savour it? Absolutely not! Even sipping didn’t feel good in my mouth, but I had to.’ She went on to do harvests in Bordeaux and Tuscany. Ntsika hails from KwaZulu-Natal and her branding echoes her Zulu heritage – the label features a calabash. ‘We’ve worked hard as black people to get recognition. We’re making award-winning wines now. Getting into the industry was…

A SECLUDED LUXURY SAFARI IN NORTHERN KRUGER In one of the most scenic areas in Kruger National Park, The Outpost offers access to remote and majestic terrain that incorporates 80% of Krugerʼs atonishing biodiversity. The architect-designed lodge has 12 contemporary suites, spectacularly cantilevered against the side of a high hill. Remote-controlled screens open to provide panoramic views of the Luvuvhu River and across the valley. Just 24 guests are accommodated in these open-plan luxury spaces, which give a sensation of floating high above a lush, majestic wilderness. The private, free standing suites are connected to the central lodge area by 500m of Zimbabwean teak walkway. This northerly section of Kruger is known for its large herds of buffalo, elephant and nyala, not often seen in other areas. It is a…

Gripped A deeply visceral study in naturally occuring textures, Armand Grobler’s picture of a dark chanting goshawk with a plated lizard in its clutches says much about the power of the image to capture moments of intrigue, filled with drama and emotion. The picture – from Armand’s book Photo Safari Kruger – was taken at close range (with a Canon 300mm f/2.8 lens) and the bird was surprisingly relaxed, even with humans present. ‘We were alerted by the sound of a squirrel alarm calling and thought – or hoped – it was a leopard,’ says Armand. ‘And then we spotted the goshawk with its meal instead, which was even better!’ In case you missed it, there are more of Armand’s pictures, all taken in the Greater Kruger, on page 52.…