Decanter -julkaisun December 2019 -irtonumeron sisällysluettelo

Obituaries JEAN-BERNARD DELMAS 1935-2019 Charming, extraordinary and revolutionary are just some of the words that have been used to describe winemaker Jean-Bernard Delmas, who has died, aged 83. He spent more than 40 years, from 1961 to 2003, as manager and technical director of Château Haut-Brion, also overseeing the other wines of estate owner Domaine Clarence Dillon, including La Mission Haut-Brion. Jean-Bernard succeeded his father Georges at Château Haut-Brion and was subsequently succeeded by his own son, Jean-Philippe. After leaving Château Haut-Brion, Jean-Bernard went on to manage Château Montrose following the Bouygues brothers’ purchase of the estate in 2006. He retired in 2011. Jean-Bernard Delmas ‘was a mentor’ to many. ‘My family has never known Château Haut-Brion without the presence of this great man and extraordinary winemaker,’ said Prince Robert…

Andrew Jefford ‘Drinking this half-bottle meant a lot to me – I was fully emotionally invested’ Twice a year, I judge wine lists from leading global restaurants. It’s in those establishments that many of the world’s greatest bottles are lying, stacked up in dark, windowless, air-conditioned rooms or in wine refrigerators under lock and key. When the moment comes, they’ll be marched importantly out to a table and sold (at three times market cost) to an amply resourced customer who, 20 minutes earlier, had no idea that he or she was going to buy and drink this wine, and who simply wants something that looks right, tastes nice and will make the kind of splash the occasion requires. To those of us who struggle to buy just a few great…

Letter from Oregon Steven Spurrier ‘These Oregon wines are very site-specific – they remind me of Burgundy’ This summer I was guest speaker at the 33rd International Pinot Noir Celebration (IPNC) in Oregon, my theme being ‘Chalonnaise, the third Côte’. Having been viewed over the years by the Côte de Nuits and the Côte de Beaune as a sort of distant cousin, extensive replanting with selected clones, better attention in the cellar and total attention to quality has brought the Côte Chalonnaise firmly back into the Burgundy family. Apart from the Chalonnaise masterclass and two smaller events, my time was spent focusing on Oregon’s own wines, especially the Pinots. The success of the region is clear from the increase in plantings – in 1987, 59 estates/wineries made wine from 1,804ha;…

The Decanter interview JANCIS ROBINSON MW & HUGH JOHNSON Almost 50 years since it was first published, The World Atlas of Wine has reached its eighth edition. John Stimpfig talks to its two authors to discover how this revered book has documented the extensive developments in the world of wine over that time Photograph: Catharine Lowe (www. cathlowe.com) October saw the launch of the eighth and latest edition of The World Atlas of Wine by Hugh Johnson and Jancis Robinson MW. First published in 1971, the original tome was hailed as an instant classic and essential reference work for wine lovers. Since then, the past seven editions have sold nearly five million copies between them and been translated into 14 languages. Decanter caught up with the…

Chablis vintage preview CHABLIS 2018 This hot, early and bountiful vintage was a welcome relief for weather-plagued producers. But while the quantity is there, quality is patchy, says Tim Atkin MW, with much depending on yields, picking dates and producer nous. Here he selects 35 wines to buy, from grand cru to Petit Chablis First the good news: there’s lots of 2018 Chablis to go round. After the hail- and frost-imposed penury of 2016 and 2017, nature was munificent this time, filling cellars to overflowing. ‘In 2017, we needed 10 vines to fill a basket with grapes,’ says Christian Moreau of Domaine Christian Moreau. ‘In 2018, we needed only one. Two more days of harvest and we’d have run out of space!’ Producers took advantage of the maximum permitted yields,…

Piedmont red top buys MY TOP 40: PIEDMONT REDS BEYOND NEBBIOLO For everday drinking like the Piedmontese do it, Stephen Brook picks his favourites from a line-up of 112 of the less-famous local labels – here are the 40 he rated 90 points or more It was once estimated that half the plantings in Piedmont were of Barbera, and I dare say it’s still true today. It’s a workhouse variety, but in the best sense. Its lively acidity makes it a suitable match for many Piedmontese dishes, and along with Dolcetto, it is the region’s house wine. So it wasn’t really surprising that Barbera dominated this tasting. It’s planted throughout the region, and plays a part in many blends. Moreover, some decades ago certain producers found it responded well to…

St-Emilion: know your vintages 2017 Worst frost attack since 1991 led to heavy crop loss. St-Emilion plateau fared best, otherwise variable. 2016 Later harvest but both quality and quantity. High tannin, acidity and alcohol but, nonetheless, wines that are pure, balanced and precise. 2015 Great year for Merlot. Wines with a sunny disposition: rich, powerful and opulent. Lower acidity than 2016. 2014 Saved by an Indian summer. Medium-bodied wines are fragrant, elegant and classic in style. Can provide value. 2013 Most taxing vintage in the last 20 years. Difficult flowering and rot in the Merlot. Light and early drinking. 2012 Up and down season, but Merlot generally harvested before October rain. Fruit and charm for earlier drinking. Some wines offer value. 2011 Challenging year with varied quality. Initially hard and…

South Africa THE 30 BEST CAPE WINES UNDER £20 South Africa has its fair share of supermarket bargains, as well as premium wines that rub shoulders with the world’s best. But it is quality in that middle ground, between £10 and £20, that is often hard to find. Greg Sherwood MW was happy to take on the challenge… If you haven’t been drinking South African wines over the past five years, you’ve been missing out big time. Where have you been? South Africa, in my opinion, is making the most exciting wines of any New World country at the moment, with several wineries producing reds and whites that are more dynamic than many equivalent offerings from the masters in France, Italy and Spain. Yes, call me biased, but read –…

PROMOTIONAL FEATURE Art Russe: the making of a masterpiece The renaissance of Château la Grâce Dieu des Prieurs and the unique fusion of fine wine and Russian art When the opportunity arose in 2013 to purchase the historic Château la Grâce Dieu des Prieurs estate, quietly nestled among the world-renowned vines between the towns of Saint-Émilion and Pomerol, Russian philanthropist and entrepreneur Andrey Filatov found the perfect avenue to unite his passions for both art and wine. With a desire to build bridges between his culture of birth and the French way of life, Filatov enlisted a team of experts to upgrade the estate and modernise the winemaking process, embarking on a project which would see the promotion of Russian art through the creation of a boutique grand vin named…

Port PORT VINTAGES: A Decanter guide Hovering over those dusty old bottles, wondering which to crack open? Richard Mayson provides full ratings for Port vintages since 1963, and picks his top wines for drinking now When it comes to vintage Port, we’ve never had it so good – an unprecedented run of fine vintages in 2017, 2016 and 2015 were all worthy of an outright declaration, with 2018 and 2019 looking promising too. But to drink these wines now would be infanticide, so it begs the question: what to enjoy now while these wonderful recent vintages slowly mature? Fortunately, some of the rather good years in the 2000s and 1990s are now becoming approachable. They divide between so-called ‘classic’ declarations and single-quinta vintage Ports (SQVPs). The…

PROMOTIONAL FEATURE Kim Crawford Making Marlborough Amazing There is a lot about New Zealand that is unusual in the world of wine. It is the only major wine producing nation totally surrounded by ocean, with three hours flying to the nearest landmass in any direction. The combination of high sunshine hours and cool winds delivers the freshest fruitiest wines in the world. New Zealand really is “new” – there were no mammals till the first people arrived 800 years ago. And no serious farming till less than 200 years ago. And when Kim Crawford Wines was founded in 1996,Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc was only 15 years old. But in a short time Kim Crawford has become a major part of the success story that has seen 24 successive years of growth…

Steven Spurrier’s FINE WINE WORLD Decanter’s long-standing consultant editor and 2017 Decanter Hall of Fame Award recipient picks fine wines for drinking now and recommends others for laying down, all priced from £25 upwards FROM THE CELLAR Domaine Chantal Remy, Chambertin Grand Cru, Burgundy 2009 Having worked for almost two decades in France, the concept of taking most of August off is firmly ingrained: two weeks and more in Tuscany, preceded by a stopping-off drive down through France and the same back, on very different routes. Many bottles are enjoyed of course, but few ‘grands vins’; however, a lunch at Denise Diesen’s fine ‘manoir’ in Fleurie broke this rule. Diesen is Canadian, married to a Norwegian, and for many years created Burgundy investment funds for private clients, from the Côte…

THE JUDGES Simon Field MW Field was a buyer for Berry Bros & Rudd for more than two decades and now works as a consultant on areas which particularly interested him during that time, with Champagne topping the list in France along with Rhône and Languedoc, as well as Spain and fortifieds. Field is also a DWWA judge. Peter Liem Resident in the Champagne region, Liem is a wine writer and author of ChampagneGuide.net, as well as the DWWA Regional Chair for Champagne. Formerly a senior editor and tasting director for Wine & Spirits magazine, his most recent book, Champagne, was published in October 2017 (Mitchell Beazley). David Vareille Vareille is head sommelier at The Arts Club in London. Raised in Chablis, he began his career at 16 working in…

Panel tasting THE VERDICT High scores aplenty confirmed there is very good quality in California’s 2015 Cabernets, with a consistent standard overall, though a tendency to super-ripeness persists, says Stephen Brook If there was one thing the judges were in complete agreement about during this extensive tasting, it was that 2015 is an excellent vintage for Cabernet Sauvignon in California. There was, however, considerable regret that some significant regions submitted few or no samples. There were some wines from Sonoma, but far fewer than in previous years’ editions of this tasting; and Paso Robles, often a source of good-value Cabernets for relatively early drinking, was conspicuous by its complete absence. The excellent performance of the two wines from Santa Cruz showed that tasters are by no means Napa-fixated, and it…

Travel CHRISTMAS MARKETS If you’re heading to one of Europe’s traditional Christmas markets this year, take the opportunity to sample the local food and wine while you’re there. Fiona Sims offers a guide to five of the best cities for foodies Berlin The market: There are many Christmas markets located all over Germany’s sprawling capital city – more than 70, in fact. The largest is in the old town of Spandau, lit by 1,000 fairy lights and complete with glassblowers; 25 November to 22 December. www.visitberlin.de Long seen as the world capital of the underground, and still somewhere to which artists, musicians and writers flock, Berlin now has another face, one of tech start-ups and electronic music, stylish designer hotels and cutting-edge restaurants, with cuisines that span the world. But…

Vineyard land value growth inspires new investment fund A new regulated fund for wealthy wine lovers and institutions aims to build a portfolio of vineyards around the world with a total market value of €50 million. Rising prices for quality vineyard land, fuelled by investor interest from Silicon Valley to China, has prompted WSF SICAV plc, a sister company of Wine Source Group, to launch a Vineyard & Terroir Fund. Investors must put up at least €200,000, or $200,000 in the US, for a minimum of five years. Partnerships with new and established winemakers who believe in sustainable farming methods will be key, said the group. Burgundy premiers crus, Piedmont and the UK are among its primary targets. For more on this story, visit: Decanter.com/wine-news…

WHAT I’VE BEEN DRINKING THIS MONTH Fratelli Alessandria, Barolo, Piedmont, Italy 2013 I bought six full bottles of Fratelli Alessandria’s 2013 Barolo in the UK (for £35.68 delivered) and suitcased them home – it’s hard to find much from Piedmont in France. Grave, refined, clear, settled and serious, exactly as I remember Vittore Alessandria himself from my visit in 2015; the limpid Verduno style, classically realised. More acidity than tannin, note, and poised ripeness qualifying both.…

WHAT I’VE BEEN DRINKING THIS MONTH Adelsheim, Quarter Mile Lane Vineyard 2017 Dinner the first evening in Oregon was hosted by David Adelsheim, former president of the IPNC. Of the two whites, Love & Squalor’s Willamette Valley Riesling 2015 was rich and just dry, while Adelsheim’s Ribbon Springs Chardonnay 2016 was citrussy and elegant. Two Pinots followed, the black cherries of Adelsheim’s Quarter Mile Lane 2017 taking the edge over the floral, precise Mercurey 1er Cru En Sazenay 2017 from Antonin Rodet.…

PROMOTIONAL FEATURE CÔTES DE BORDEAUX Unusual Côtes to enjoy It makes sense for the Côtes de Bordeaux, the youngest appellation in the Bordeaux region, to also be one of its true centres of innovation. This is a grouping of five sub-appellations - Blaye, Cadillac, Francs, Castillon and Sainte-Foy - that are all found on the Right Bank of either the Garonne or the Dordogne rivers and that were brought together under an umbrella name in 2009 to showcase wines that are full of flavour, prioritise authenticity and easy pleasure and that are more than 90% independently-owned, with the family owners invariably living on site and taking care of all parts of production themselves, often selling direct. There are high-profile names here - Thienpont, Valette, de Boüard among them - but…

Lawther’s pick: top-value St-Emilion 1 Château Figeac, Petit-Figeac, St-Emilion GC 2016 94 £53.17-£59.17 Fine & Rare, Millésima, Montrachet, The Vinorium A great introduction to Figeac, this wine is 20% of its production. Refined floral and dark fruit aromatics. Plenty of lift and freshness. Beautifully smooth texture. Very fine tannins and appealing fruit. Difficult to resist. Drink 2021-2032 Alcohol 13.5% 2 Château Moulin St-Georges, St-Emilion GC 2015 92 £22.92-£28.64 (ib) Christopher Keiller, Farr Vintners, Corkr, Crump Richmond Shaw, Montrachet Ripe and generous but not overblown. Cherry and damson notes with a creamy edge. Palate is opulent and round but with a fresh, minerally sensation behind. Plenty of reserve. Chalky note on the finish. Drink 2021-2035 Alc 14.5% 3 Château Quinault l’Enclos, St-Emilion GCC 2016 92 £36.67-£45 Averys, Cambridge Wine Merchants, Millésima,…

PROMOTIONAL FEATURE Ramón Bilbao: the sustainable way to wine nvesting in a sustainable future – waste reduction, recycling, energy efficiency, water management and lower greenhouse gas emissions – means that Spain’s Ramón Bilbao is already well on the way to meeting its target of a 20% reduction in all areas by 2020. For Chief Winemaker Rodolfo Bastida, precision viticulture has become central to his mission to maximise the potential of the Ramón Bilbao vineyards in producing fresh, elegant, modern wines with balanced structure. ‘Using technology such as drone flights, we can manage our vineyards efficiently all year round,’ Rodolfo explains. ‘Monitoring areas with excessive vigour or higher yields, we can control leaf canopy as required and still achieve optimal ripeness without the excessive use of water.’ Rodolfo also uses detailed…

Key facts Total vineyard area: Red: 8.5ha - varieties 90% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Franc White: 1ha 100% - variety Chardonnay for Vin de France Soil composition: Brown sands, clay and limestone Average yields: 30hl/ha Average vineyard density: 6,600 vines per hectare Average vine age: 35 years Average annual production: 30,000 bottles under the Saint-Émilion Grand Cru appellation Ageing: Radoux Blend barrels made of fine-grained French oak for between 18-22 months using 100% new oak Corks: Latest generation natural NDTech corks No second wine…

Port Port vintages: drinkability guide 2018 Early days as yet, but a good growing season should produce some promising single-quinta wines. Keep. 2017 A magnificent vintage, generally declared hard on the heels of 2016. Rich, intense, powerful, fruit-driven wines balanced by unusual freshness and verve. Keep. 2016 Generally declared. Structured and well-balanced wines for drinking from the late-2020s and over the long term. Keep. 2015 Very nearly outstanding, with Ramos Pinto and Niepoort opting to declare in preference to 2016. A limited declaration, resulting in mostly single-quinta wines. Drink from the mid- to late-2020s. 2014 A challenging growing season. Noval declared. Mostly single-quinta wines for early to mid-term drinking from 2022 onwards. 2013 A good single-quinta vintage, especially in the Douro Superior which escaped the September rain. Noval and Poças…

Decanter Retailer Awards THE 2019 WINNERS Has there been a more challenging wine retail environment? It’s hard to think of a more adverse set of conditions, beset as we are by low consumer confidence, Brexit issues, a fluctuating currency, ever-greater competition and consolidation, punitive duty… and people drinking less. ‘We need our best wine retailers now more than ever,’ says chairman Peter Richards MW. ‘These awards not only celebrate our best wine sellers, they also remind us how lucky we are as a drinking nation to be served by such talent, imagination and resilience in adversity.’ Outstanding Retailer of the Year Winner Waitrose Several exciting names from very different ends of the wine spectrum were in the mix for this award. Waitrose ultimately earned the accolade through bravery, creativity and…

The Spurrier selection Boekenhoutskloof, Semillon, Franschhoek, South Africa, 2017 93 £25.48-£32 Carruthers & Kent, Harrogate Fine Wine Co, Lay & Wheeler From three vineyards planted in 1902, 1936 and 1942 on original rootstocks. Silver-pale, showing a complex, orange blossom and beeswax nose, with white peach and a zest of lime on the palate. Stunningly original with a good future. Drink 2019-2027 Alc 14% Ritme Celler, Etern, Priorat, Spain 2015 93 £46.95 Lea & Sandeman Just 2,274 bottles produced from very low-yielding 70- to 95-year-old vines, 80% Cariñena and 20% Garnacha on steep Priorat hills. Dense ruby colour, autumn berries and pot pourri spice on the nose, rich but firmly textured fruit on the palate, terrific depth for the long term. Drink 2019-2035 Alc 15% Terracura Wines, Silwervis Cinsault, Voor Paardeberg,…

BEHIND THE TASTING We assembled 65 pairs of Champagnes in the Decanter tasting suite in London. Tasted by myself along with former buyer Simon Field MW and sommelier David Vareille, each Champagne was represented in both 75cl bottle and 1.5-litre magnum, and most of these were brut non-vintage styles – that is, Champagnes blended from multiple harvests – although there were a handful of vintage-dated Champagnes from various years as well. It’s important to note that while the same wines were featured in both bottle and magnum, this tasting didn’t directly compare each wine in both formats: rather, we blind-tasted all of the magnums together and all of the bottles together. In addition, while disgorgement dates were generally within range of each other, they were not the same for bottles…

Panel tasting 2015 CALIFORNIA CABERNET SAUVIGNON Recent vintages in America’s sunny west coast state have been generally well received, producing many highly rated wines, and, reports Stephen Brook, the latest release 2015s are true to form Both 2013 and 2014 were acclaimed, if not entirely consistent, Cabernet vintages in California, and another vintage of comparable quality turned up in 2015. However, after a cool spring in Napa Valley the flowering was patchy, leading to crop losses ranging from 10% to 60% depending on local conditions. The summer that followed was dry and hot. This was to prove a mixed blessing. The poor set at flowering meant that berries were often small, resulting in very concentrated juice with high sugars. Moreover, in late summer and during harvest, there were heat spikes…

THE JUDGES Dave Allen Allen is director of Californian specialist wine merchant The Vineyard Cellars in Berkshire. He started at Coe Vintners before progressing through sales and managerial roles there and later at Enotria&Coe, and has spent most of his career selling premium-level wines and spirits in the on-trade across London and the southeast. Stephen Brook Decanter contributing editor Brook is the author of almost 40 books on travel, wine and more, and has won numerous awards for his writing on wine. His works include The Wines of California (Faber & Faber 1999), which won three awards, and his monumental survey The Complete Bordeaux is now in its third edition. Terry Kandylis Kandylis is head sommelier at London’s 67 Pall Mall private members’ club. He earned the title of Best…

My perfect day in Puglia MORNING After starting the day at Cantina Terra Jovia’s B&B in the old family farmhouse, drive to the stone erected in Contrada Liponti to commemorate the spot where the first ever Primitivo grapes were planted in Italy, at the end of the 18th century. Don Francesco Filippo Indellicati was responsible for introducing this hardy grape that laid the basis for Puglia’s wine-growing success. Now travel on to Mottola, one of the many beautiful hilltop towns in Puglia, where you can enjoy a light lunch at the bright, white Taverna del Piffero  (www.tavernadelpiffero.it), established in 1998 but recently radically redecorated. Here the pizza dough is leavened over 48 hours and then slow-cooked in a wood-burning oven. AFTERNOON Taking the flyover across the SS100, visit Cantina Pantun…

ReadersÕ queries Notes & Queries Each month our experts answer readers’ wine queries and share their knowledge Another fine mesh Why do some bottles of Rioja have gold mesh around them? And does it say anything about the quality of the wine within? MIchael Ballard, Surrey Sarah Jane Evans MW replies: The golden mesh, or malla, around the bottle was an early form of protection against counterfeiting. It was introduced towards the end of the 19th century by the Marqués de Riscal, to protect his increasingly successful wines from tampering. Undoubtedly they added a certain glamour to the packaging, too. Given the medal-winning success of the Riscal wines, the golden cage came to be seen as an indicator of quality. Producers of cheaper wines and other…

In brief Stay up to date with the latest wine news on Decanter.com, or follow us on Facebook or Twitter @Decanter ■ Pierre-Emmanuel Taittinger has hailed the end of an era with the announcement that his daughter Vitalie will replace him as president of the Champagne house from 1 January 2020. As part of the generational handover, his son Clovis will take over the role of general manager from Damien le Sueur. ‘I can hand over the reins, secure in a sense of accomplishment,’ Pierre-Emmanuel said. ■ ‘Exceptionally strong winds’, the aftermath of drought and a ‘serious shortage of manpower’ have led to Santorini’s smallest Assyrtiko crop since 1991. Producer Domaine Argyros said winds destroyed more than 20% of the potential harvest, while Santo Wines reported its 2019 crop was…

Letter of the month Daunting prospect When I first became interested in wine – in the early to mid-1960s – there was a limited range available in the UK and few wine writers to consult. In terms of the range, there was France, largely Bordeaux, Burgundy and the Loire (Alsace being largely unknown) and Germany, mainly Rheingau and Rheinhessen. Apart from Sherry, Spain was barely on the horizon, Portugal was basically Port, Italy was largely Chianti. Beyond Europe was terra incognita. Book authors and column writers were few until Hugh Johnson’s Wine and then his World Atlas of Wine presaged a blossoming in the number of writers and TV personalities who started to push lesser-known regions and to commodify wine as an everyday drink. What then…

Hugh Johnson ‘A muck-and-magic story with a French accent’ Blinking in the sun on a slatey southern slope or surveying the brown Gironde from a gravel dune of vines, it is not hard to believe in the magic of terroir. It is the perfect word for a muck-and-magic story with a French accent. It is less easy to take in if you’re in the middle of a forgettable field, pancake flat, brown, a bit stony, miles from anywhere. A farmhouse, a few trees, a chilly wind… and rows of hunched, gnarled vines not two feet high, scrawled like Arab calligraphy in wobbly row. What are we looking at? The oldest vineyard in France, nearly two centuries old, planted with a vine you’ve never heard of and propagated by marcottage, or…

Wines to taste Château Ducru Beaucaillou, AOC Saint Julien 2nd Growth 2003 There are markers of a hot vintage in this wine, no question, but they translate into a beautifully exotic saffron and clove edge. The tannins are still present, surprisingly so, and overall this is a rather wonderful wine. It’s not dried out as many 2003s are, just extremely open and welcoming. Its soft menthol freshness on the finish is a brilliant example of how the proximity to the river pays off in the heat. Drink 2019–2034 94 points. Château Ducru Beaucaillou, AOC Saint Julien 2nd Growth 2016 This is powerful, inky in colour and feel, with black olive, liquorice and cigar smoke alongside cinnamon, black pepper and Cabernet character of blackcurrant bud. Intense and powerful and is going…

Carato Venusio Cantina di Venosa’s “jewel in the crown” is the Aglianico del Vulture called Carato Venusio: • Gold Medal with Decanter World Wine Awards in 2018 and • Four Corkscrews in the AIS Guide 2020. This wine is a cuvée of 100% Aglianico grapes that grow on vines 15-30 years old at an altitude of 400 meters, vinified in small fermentation vats. The alcoholic and malolactic fermentations are then completed in stainless steel tanks before the wine is transferred for ageing into oak barrels to enrich its fruity profile with tertiary aromas. Tasting note: complex structure, ample but well balanced alcohol content, fresh tasting and savoury with black-fruit flavours to balance the finish.…

The wines Télos Il Bianco Made from Garganega and Chardonnay grapes, with delicate and pervasive aromas of citrus fruit and medicinal herbs such as feverfew, mint, sage and thyme, and a twist of bitter almonds on the finish. To be savoured with passion. Refreshing and persistent, with a continually developing palate, this is an ideal wine to use as an aperitif, or pair with starters, vegetables or fish with light sauces. Télos Il Grigio First presented at Vinitaly 2019, Télos Il Grigio is the latest addition to the range and an unmistakable wine. Naturally balanced, its flavours hark back to the Pinot Grigios of the past. Soft and pervasive on the palate, supported by good acidity and body, Il Grigio balances aromas and flavours perfectly with hints of white flowers…

Bordeaux ST-EMILION: FINDING VALUE It really needn’t be seen as a contradiction in terms, explains James Lawther MW, who selects 15 great wines that offer both quality and fair pricing from this much-admired Bordeaux Right Bank region Write a feature on finding value in St-Emilion, the editor said. It doesn’t exist was my instant reply. The name alone carries a premium, conjuring up everything from images of the heavily visited medieval town itself and the accolade of UNESCO World Heritage site, to legendary names like Châteaux Ausone and Cheval Blanc. Properties are small, 8ha the average size, and land prices rarely fall below €200,000 per hectare with some running to millions. Value: you must be joking. But then I gave the subject some thought. Scratch below the surface and you…

PROMOTIONAL FEATURE Finding Bordeaux AOC gems in challenging vintages Photograph: Bonnaud Guillaume Photograph: Bonnaud Guillaume 2017 may not be in the same category as top red Bordeaux vintages like 2005, 2010, 2015 or 2016, but one can find excellent values. A terrible late April frost wiped out at least 40% of the potential crop: the lowest quantity of red Bordeaux produced since 1991. The frost damage was so widespread that the government allocated funds to help estates that had been especially hard hit. Public spending helped pay for new vine plantings to replace those destroyed by frost, for example. But for properties that were able to make wine, many 2017 reds are ripe, bright and smooth, as the tasting notes show. International wine consultant and harvest observer Bill Blatch said…

PROMOTIONAL FEATURE Marchesi di Barolo Founder pioneers of Piedmont’s most famous wine The ancient cellars of the Marchesi di Barolo company lie in the centre of the town of Barolo, in Piedmont, in a palazzo overlooking the Castle of the Marchesi Falletti. Right here, more than 200 years ago, a beautiful story began. And now, the Abbona family controls over 200 hectares of UNESCO World Heritage Vineyards. The history of the winery coincides with the history of a wine, Barolo, which was born in these cellars, and begins in 1806 with a love story: between the Marquis of Barolo, Carlo Tancredi Falletti and a French noblewoman, Juliette Colbert de Maulévrier. No one could have imagined then that one day this wine would become king: the King of wines, the wine…

Pinot Meunier Lascelles’ pick: 10 top Meunier styles 1 Laherte Frères, Les Vignes d’Autrefois Extra Brut, Champagne, France 2013 95 £55.45 The Whisky Exchange, WoodWinters Very appetising nose: fresh, slightly yeasty. Excellent focus and definition on the palate, zippy Bramley apple, dried apricots and a fine, creamy texture, followed by a slightly salty finish. Thrilling. Drink 2019-2025 Alcohol 12.5% 2 Chartogne-Taillet, Les Barres Extra Brut, Champagne, France 2013 93 POA Vine Trail Distinctly ‘Meunier’, with a big bouquet of apples and flowers and complex layers of flavour. Full-flavoured yet still lean: bright, racy acidity keeps it moving through to an elegant finish. Drink 2019-2025 Alc 12% 3 Gosset, Grand Blanc de Meunier Extra Brut NV, Champagne, France 93 £84.99 The Whisky Exchange, WoodWinters Rather understated at first, but flowers into…

Art Russe vertical 2017 No grand vin produced due to frost damage. 2016 This is tight and dense with a dramatic, dark fruit and tobacco-laced nose. The palate is similarly dark and brooding with rich cherries and blackberries alongside slightly spicy notes from the oak (they use a medium+ level of toast for their barrels). There’s hidden power here with generous, mouth-coating tannins and a lengthy finish. More robust than the 2015, it needs time to settle but this will go the distance and should be kept to age. 21 months ageing. 14% alcohol. 92/100 2015 This is a ‘gourmet’ wine according to Prosperi who suggests a juicy duck breast as a food pairing option. The nose and palate are extremely expressive with an abundance of cherry flavour. Soft tannins…

Seasonal treat: Mayson’s top Ports to drink soon 1 Ramos Pinto 1994 97 £50.88 Lay & Wheeler Based on the Quinta do Bom Retiro in Torto valley, the 1994 is magnificent: opulent, ripe plummy fruit on the nose, dark chocolate concentration. Rich fruit, broad tannins, powerful finish. Wonderful now but a long life ahead. Drink 2019-2050 Alcohol 20% Croft 2003 95 £52-£60 Bentley’s of Ludlow, Berry Bros & Rudd, Connolly’s, Davy’s, Fine & Rare, Goedhuis & Co, House of Townend, Private Cellar, The Whisky Exchange, Thos Peatling, Vintage Wine & Port, York Wines Still tight-knit but with underlying definition, fruit and intensity, a touch of tar and spice reflecting the heat of the vintage. Wonderful purity of fruit on the palate initially, backed by powerful spicy tannins with great definition…

THE JUDGING PANEL Peter Richards MW is an awarded wine writer, broadcaster and consultant, and DWWA Regional Chair for Chile Laura Clay is the current chairman of the Association of Wine Educators Andy Howard MW is a contributing editor to Decanter. He was formerly a retail wine buyer for 30 years Peter Ranscombe is a journalist, author, wine columnist and drinks blogger for Scottish Field Matt Walls is a contributing editor to Decanter and a former buyer for a London wine retailer Official sponsors of the Decanter Retailer Awards 2019…

THIS MONTH’S PANEL TASTINGS Champagne: bottle vs magnum & California Cabernet 2015 WANT MORE? Decanter.com/ premium has full tasting notes for both panel tastings, plus exclusive tasting reports and more Steven Spurrier’s fine wine world Our consultant editor and 2017 Decanter Hall of Fame recipient picks fine wines to drink now and to lay down, all priced at £25 and above Weekday wines By the Decanter team Want something more adventurous in your midweek wine selection but don’t want to make an expensive mistake? We’ve found 25 exciting wines to try for £25 or under Champagne: bottle vs magnum 130 wines tasted Is it always better from the bigger bottle? Our judges put the claim to the test, with some fascinating results California Cabernet 2015 197 wines tasted…

WEEKDAY WINES Looking to try something different or adventurous, but don’t want to make an expensive mistake? The Decanter team has done the hard work for you, picking out 25 exciting and accessible wines available in the UK for £25 or less Angel & Four, Masterstroke, Gloucestershire, England NV 88 £9.99 Aldi A fun change from Prosecco, made from the Germanic varieties that were once more widely planted in England: Reichensteiner, Madeleine Angevine and Seyval Blanc. Spring hedgerows on first sip, lemon sherbet, and a zestiness on the finish. AW Alcohol 12% Artisan, Chardonnay, Tasmania, Australia 2017 92 £16.99 www.aldi.co.uk Rich, creamy flavours of spiced peaches and lemon curd with a modern, struck-match note, zippy acidity and a long, nutty finish. This wine is part of a new online-only ‘icon’…

Panel tasting THE VERDICT Sweeping conclusions are hard to make, since much can depend on disgorgment dates, but as a rule of thumb, think magnums for ageing and bottles for immediate enjoyment, says Peter Liem Our results varied widely depending on the wines, but looking back at the data after the tasting, there were more wines that scored higher in magnum (32) than in bottle (25), which corresponded to our general impressions during the blind tasting. The most significant difference for me was the texture in magnum, which was consistently finer in tone, with a silkier mousse. While I had anticipated this to be the case, it was nevertheless striking to see it displayed across so many examples, and in some instances the differences were pronounced, as with our samples…

CAL CAB: KNOW YOUR VINTAGES 2016 A cool summer was followed by a warm September that speeded up ripening. Outstanding Cabernet with concentrated and layered wines. 2014 A warm though not excessively hot summer delivered vibrant Cabernets with fine tannins. 2013 A normal growing season, but small berries and thick skins gave ripe but tannic Cabernets that need time. 2012 A year of even ripening and generous yields. A precocious vintage, resulting in supple and generous wines. 2011 A difficult flowering meant a small crop after a fairly cool summer. Rain at harvest required many producers to sort unpicked fruit. Very good but inconsistent wines. 2010 A cool and late growing season, giving wines of fresh acidity and moderate alcohols, but stylistically controversial.…

Expert’s choice MOULIS & LISTRAC 2016 Beyond the big-name regions and famous châteaux, there is value to be found in Bordeaux, says James Lawther MW who combed two of its smaller appellations to find stars from the 2016 vintage Looking for that satisfyingly dry, savoury, Médoc flavour but unwilling to pay classed growth prices? Try Moulis and Listrac, the tiny communal appellations that rub shoulders with Bordeaux heavyweights Margaux, St-Julien, Pauillac and St-Estèphe. The châteaux are less trumpeted, but good value is practically guaranteed. Absent from the 1855 classification, Moulis and Listrac have a long-standing viticultural history dating back to the Middle Ages. This is prime cru bourgeois country, its vineyards established by the 18th century. By 1932 Château Chasse-Spleen in Moulis was labelled cru bourgeois exceptionnel, while 14 châteaux…

Your Puglia address book ACCOMMODATION Masseria Borgo Egnazia Ideal for families and for those seeking fine dining, this new-build masseria and ‘village’ in Savelletri di Fasano has done a great job of looking as if it were built centuries ago. www.borgoegnazia.com Masseria Camarda Outside the foodie town of Ceglie Messapica, a thriving farm that has also opened Palazzo Camarda, a hotel in the medieval town centre. www.masseriacamarda.com Masseria Naturalis Bio Resort Simplicity and wellness are key at this restful masseria in Martano, where redevelopment has been kept to a minimum. Owner Domenico Scordari makes his own wine. www.naturalisbioresort.com Masseria San Domenico One of the first historic masserias to be turned into a hotel, San Domenico in Savelletri di Fasano is set in ancient olive groves and proudly serves its own…

TASTING NOTES DECODED Almond Perhaps most associated with Amaretto, the Italian liqueur whose name translates to ‘little bitter’, the signature bitterness of almond is thought to be caused by benzaldehyde, a chemical compound formed in wines during fermentation and also carbonic maceration – when grapes are sealed in a vessel under carbon dioxide prior to regular fermentation. As well as fermentation, it can also come from yeast influences, in a similar vein to biscuit and brioche notes. This could include wines rested sur lie (on the lees), or those that have undergone bâtonnage (lees-stirring). Levels of benzaldehyde are generally higher in sparkling wines, particularly those made using the traditional (bottle-fermented) or Charmat methods, though a ‘fruity bitterness’ can also feature in some young red Bordeaux wines, for example. In the…

DOW’S, VINTAGE PORT 1955 Douro, Portugal A legend because… There was a plethora of excellent Ports made in this vintage, but Dow’s has long stood out for its elegance as well as richness. William Warre, who sold these wines for many years, described them as ‘rather more delicate, feminine wines’ that ‘seldom let anyone down in quality’. They age well, even if in their youth they seem less structured and powerful than some other well-known Ports. They are also a touch drier than some of the more sumptuous Ports, but that doesn’t impede their ageing ability. Looking back Silva & Cosens, an Anglo-Portuguese shipper, bought the established Dow’s brand in 1877, and one of the shareholders was a member of the Warre family. Warre’s own Port was owned by…