CROWN -julkaisun Issue 1 2025 -irtonumeron sisällysluettelo

“The only reason for time is so that everything doesn’t happen at once.” – Albert Einstein The pursuit of time is eternal. We treasure, document, and measure it with precision – yet sometimes, we can’t help but wish we could pause, holding on to fleeting moments that slip away no matter how hard we try. And yet, as human beings, we are resilient and adaptable. When time proves impossible to grasp, we create machines to capture it – remarkable instruments that preserve memories and bear witness to the passing of generations. What the mind may forget, the heart remembers – much like how the earliest mechanical timepieces have seen centuries of change while steadfastly keeping time. My journey through the world of horology has been anything but conventional – wearing…

There has been a boom in artistic watchmaking across every segment of watchmaking. Microbrands, major watchmakers, independents, and avant-garde labels are all experimenting with artistic expression in their own way. Naturally, the leaders in this segment are raising the bar even higher - Vacheron Constantin’s Les Cabinotiers atelier has introduced the Le Temps Divin (‘Divine Time’ in French) that presents time through the lens of East Asian culture. To express the idea of seasonal or cyclical time, they have chosen the Four Symbols, also known as the Four Gods or Guardians, across various Asian cultures and presented them using wood marquetry. Each is a marvel, and the entire collection offers one of the finest examples of wood marquetry work we have ever seen. In total, 150 types of wood were…

This year marks two important anniversaries at Rolex: it’s the 120th anniversary of the Swiss manufacture and the 80th anniversary of the Oyster Perpetual Datejust. As the very first wristwatch to present a date indication on the dial, the Datejust stands as a milestone in mechanical watchmaking. It heralded a new, modern era where the leap week calendar (developed because each Gregorian cycle has a whole number of weeks) gave way to more specificity as modern lifestyles demanded greater long-term planning in business and leisure. Presented in 1945 in an 18 ct yellow gold case with a thin fluted bezel and white dial, the Datejust introduced several innovations for the brand while simultaneously commemorating Rolex’s 40th anniversary. At its launch, the watch was sized at a rather generous 36 mm…

If you are a fan of IWC, you’ll no doubt have noticed that the Schaffhausen watchmaker tends to focus on a particular collection and theme each year, with some exceptions in the past. 2023 was the Ingenieur’s, and IWC delivered a second overhaul of the collection by Christian Knoop. The highly anti-magnetic, design-centric wristwatch designed by Gérald Genta for the brand is its civilian luxury sports watch built for high performance, rather like a homologated version of a Formula 1 automobile. The refined and updated Ingenieur gives Genta’s original SL a very contemporary and mindful tweak. Even as it retains the codes of the Ingenieur SL, Knoop has applied fine watchmaking considerations to the model, such as standardising the positions of the bezel screws on the watch case. In particular,…

Judging by what we have seen in recent months, it looks like this decade’s latest trend is the square watch case. The previous era of design-led fine watchmaking took place in the ’70s and ’80s, and a slew of fantastic timepieces emerged during that period. One of them was Rado’s Anatom, which was created in 1983 and designed like a modern jewellery bracelet. It had a convex sapphire crystal with a square case that also curved to match the human wrist’s curvature, including a convex caseback that fit between the ulna and radius. The original Anatom still looks incredibly relevant today thanks to the returning watch-as-jewellery trend. This is likely why Rado has promptly brought out five new Anatom Automatic references, maintaining the size and proportions of the 2023 refresh…

For anyone who says steel isn’t a precious metal in watchmaking, we refer you to this incredible record set last November by Patek Philippe. The now-discontinued Ref. 5711 in steel was specially offered for the charity gala auction hosted by Children Action in Geneva. Since 2005, the watchmaker has been a supporter of Children Action, which commemorated its 30th anniversary in 2024. Children Action is based in Geneva and focuses on five core aspects of children’s needs, starting with access to care, education, nutrition, and biopsychosocial support. It has funded over 50 projects in the last 30 years, helping over 215,000 beneficiaries in nine countries, including Switzerland. The programme works with medical professionals to provide needed care in places where the healthcare needs of young people are often overlooked. For…

This year is a significant one for Corum, given that it’s our 70th anniversary, the 65th of the Admiral, and the 45th of the Golden Bridge. It’s also a decade since we brought back the Bubble, which has had independent success with new collectors. We have been considering how we can honour the brand’s origins and watchmaking philosophy as we continue to mature as part of a group. The post-pandemic mood of ‘spending for the moment’ has faded, and the luxury industry is now in competition with other evolving lifestyle trends, such as experiential travel and sustainable living. The impact of those changes is being felt by brands of all sizes. One positive benefit for Corum is that consumers are actively looking for products with a different identity or individuality.…

The LVMH Watch Week has become a regular programme that almost kickstarts the industry. Right after the event and the announcement of the LVMH Watch Prize, the industry is heading to its next goal post: Watches and Wonders Geneva. It seems almost prophetic that the LA fires led to the sudden cancellation of the event, as the industry faces a stress test with retail shrinking and watch pricing continuing to rise. DANIEL ROTH Extra Plat Souscription Ref. DBBE01A1 The gold guilloché dial, polished case and hand-finished DR002 movement. Chef’s kiss. One thing that’s wonderfully convenient about reviving a brand like Daniel Roth is that there’s a generous choice of remarkable creations to draw upon from its past. After seeing overwhelming interest in the Tourbillon Souscription and the Tourbillon Rose Gold,…

Anyone who is a fan of Grand Seiko, and even those who are not, would have heard of the 44GS, which is one of its icons. It defined the Grand Seiko Style when it was released. That same year, Grand Seiko also released another case design with its first automatic calibres. The 62GS shares the same Zaratsu polishing and angular construction, but where the 44GS really emphasises linear planes, the 62GS adds a gentle curvaceousness to its design. This spring, Grand Seiko has introduced three new Heritage collection watches styled in the modern 62GS look. The Ref. SBGH368J is especially significant as this is the first 62GS-style gold model that is not a limited edition. The dials of all three models have a breathtaking pattern, like irregular brushwork on a…

It’s always interesting to see what the first watch launches of the year are and what they portend for the industry as a whole. 2025 does not disappoint as Longines is one of the early birds with an innovative and technically impressive watch – the Ultra-Chron Carbon. The watch has a rather long history, originating as a diving watch with a high-speed 5Hz movement, an industry-first at the time. The cushion case – almost a square – with sharp polished chamfers had a very rugged identity, one that Longines brought back in 2022 with the Ref. L2.839.2.52.9 Ultra-Chron. What was key to the 2022 revival was the high-frequency 5Hz Calibre L836.6, which is based on the C07.811 construction, exclusively for the brand. Running at a faster pace, the L836.6 movement…

At the end of last year, we pointed out that artistic dials appear to be on the rise across all segments of the industry, from Patek Philippe to Timex (there’s a quartz-powered Q with stone dials, amazingly). It’s quite remarkable, but it also makes perfect sense, as everyone today is seeking something unique that shows their personality on their wrists. However, to demonstrate that the top tiers of watch maisons still stand strong in this field, Piaget released a very limited release of just eight Altiplano watches in January. Guided by Stéphanie Sivrière, head of Piaget’s Design Studio, designer Constanza Candamil came up with the idea of fusing enamelling and gem-setting in a seamless whole. The Altiplano, which is Spanish for plateau, has always been one of the most elegant…

Leaning into experiential watchmaking with levitating tourbillons Vanguart wants you to push it real good. The young avant-garde boutique watchmaker has only launched two models so far, but both the Black Hole and Orb Tourbillons are glorious creations. The manual-winding Black Hole Tourbillon and newly-released Orb Tourbillon (which we hope to catch a glimpse of in April) infuse techno-organic design into the wristwatch. Textures, colours, and visible movement are integrated, making watchmaking more interactive and experiential. The concentric display of the Black Hole Tourbillon, for example, with its central levitating flying tourbillon, is like high-tech timekeeping roulette, with a digital display and easy controls. And the Orb Tourbillon has a fully exposed movement, a secret spinning gem-set rotor that’s on the dial, and a foolproof operation: pushers to swap out…

Frédéric Arnault (CEO of LVMH Watches, former CEO of TAG Heuer) has had a very busy 2024. Right after the LVMH Group partnered with the Paris Olympics, he joined his father, Bernard Arnault, in announcing a 10-year global partnership with Formula 1 under Liberty Media. As part of this partnership, TAG Heuer will take over from Rolex this year as the Official Timekeeper of Formula 1 until 2034. For the watch brand, which introduced luxury brands outside of the automotive sphere to Formula 1 sponsorships, it’s a return to history. TAG Heuer’s association with automobile racing kickstarted in 1969, a pivotal moment for mechanical chronograph wristwatches. Then-CEO Jack Heuer met Jo Siffert and invited him to promote the Calibre 11 chronograph on the racetrack. Siffert would wear an Autavia with…

An industry veteran recently opined. “The watch industry is slow to pick up evolutions in consumer trends,” As a result, rapidly evolving consumer trends and the hefty impact of popularity in social media algorithms have created a mainstream look in fine watchmaking. It has also led to a reverse pushback, with some brands simply doubling down on their identity for better or worse. These watchmaking trends that are shaping up are not all positive, but by and large, they are likely to remain. The trend of microbrands sourcing and assembling watches in China remains strong, with no signs of slowing – evident in the success of several Singapore-founded brands. Though quality varies, companies like Atelier Wen have proven that strict quality control can yield high craftsmanship. This has undoubtedly caught…

It’s a big year for Vacheron Constantin. At the start of the year, it introduced its latest Les Cabinotiers creations featuring incredible wood marquetry and enamelling work on two sets of timepieces. Right after that, it marked the start of its celebrations for its 270th anniversary. The first release has us sold (and our credit card limits extended and on hold). It’s, of course, the 222, which will be permanently in the brand’s offering as part of its Historiques series. The Ref. 222 was, of course, Vacheron Constantin’s take on the integrated bracelet timepiece, a luxury sports watch trend that had taken over the run of the 1970s and 1980s. It was introduced in 1977 on the brand’s 222nd anniversary, hence its reference. Its designer, Jorg Hysek, is also very…

The mystery watch has a long tradition in watchmaking, dating back to nearly 190 years ago. Jean-Eugène Robert-Houdin, a French magician and clockmaker, came up with the first such device in 1839. Using optical tricks to hide the moving components of a clock, he made it look as if the hands moved freely without support. Mystery clocks have come a long way since, but they still have a particular mesmerising charm by offering a different experience of timekeeping. Creating a different experience of time is the rationale behind Parmigiani Fleurier’s “Objets d’Art” collection. The series, which is typically presented on his birthday, combines artistically stunning timepieces with a finely developed chiming complication. It celebrates founder Michel Parmigiani’s love of repeater complications, as well as the idea of going beyond just…

It’s rare that we see innovation in watchmaking coming from the bottom up, but this is an era of unusual moments. Microbrands, which we traditionally know as brands that are startups, crowdfunded, or work on small-batch production using OEM components, have been pushing standards of watchmaking forward. One area in which they have surprised many is the use of artistic crafts for watchmaking. The most common use of an artistic technique is probably lacquering, and that has become even more accessible today. But 2024 saw stone dials appearing on Timex Qs, which surprised, nay, shocked, many in the industry. Since then, there have been even more unexpected additions to inventive dials. Here are a few that we think have great potential to disrupt. HOLTHINRICHS Holthinrichs has been making waves in…