Inhaltsverzeichnis für April 2018 in Wanderlust

One of the most hotly anticipated events of the Wanderlust year is the annual Reader Travel Awards (p131). We know that you’re the most discerning travellers around, so your opinion really does count. This year’s results were – as ever – a mix of old favourites but also contained some surprises, too. You awarded a brand new ‘Top Country’ for instance, while I must admit I’d never have predicted Russia entering your top ten. Given your intrepid spirit, we visit some distant parts this issue. Mark Stratton reports back from Pitcairn (p104) and we seek out the world’s other remote islands (p116). Plus, Phoebe Smith walks Greenland’s Arctic Circle Trail, a route that only receives 300 visitors a year (p82). Talking of adventurous souls, bravo to the readers who made…

1 Jungle Flight, Chiang Mai, Thailand Zooming the rainforests of northern Thailand, this zip line not only flies through Doi Lankah mountain but the company behind it also holds tree-planting ceremonies each year to help restore the jungle. 2 Zzip the Flying Fox, Yungas, Bolivia Despite the questionable name, this wire offers epic views and is a much-needed community-minded initiative, which employs locals from the nearby Yolosa village. 3 Zip-line, Pulpit Rock, Norway  one Norway s holy trinity of stone wonders – Pulpit Rock – for views across Lysefjord, then recover your breath by sliding part of the way down the alpine descent. 4 Ziptrek Ecotours, Queenstown, New Zealand Billed as the Adrenalin Capital of the World’, New Zealand has its share of zip lines, with the Bob’s Peak wire…

1 = India Explore a lesser-known corner Delve Inside Karnataka with Holiday Architects and hunt hidden India. Take in the temples of Belur and Halebid, sniff out incense centres in Mysore and spy tigers and elephants in Nagarhole NP. See the Tibetan communities and coffee region of Coorg, and end on the sands of Neeleshwar. Who: Holiday Architects (01242 253073; indiaholidayarchitects.com) When: Year round How long: 13 days How much: From £2,800 (incl flights) 1 = Ecuador Cruise the Galápagos See wonders on Llama Travel’s Galápagos + A Taste of Ecuador tour. Stroll colonial streets in capital Quito before cruising star-turn the Galápagos Islands aboard the San Jose, spying wild marine iguanas and penguins before climaxing in tropical Guayaquil. Who: Llama Travel (020 7263 3000; llamatravel.com) When: Selected dates Mar…

The great naturalist Charles Darwin once described the Galápagos Islands as “a little world within itself,” and his words still ring true today. Countless miraculous creatures – many of which can’t be found anywhere else on Earth – call this remote Ecuadorian archipelago home, and much of its landscape appears as if ripped straight from another planet. It’s little wonder that it still appears top of most peoples’ bucket lists (and rightly so). Now tour operator Latin Routes is offering you and a friend the chance to realise a long-held travel dream in style, with a place on your own Galápagos cruising adventure. It’s your ticket to discovering a land like no other... COLONIAL CHARM The trip isn’t all about the Galápagos, though. Your cruise will be sandwiched between days…

Seeing all that India has to offer can be an impossible task – but it needn’t be. The state of Rajasthan is a microcosm of this wild, varied land, squeezing in brightly-hued cities, fine architecture and incredible wildlife. And now, tour operator India Unlocked is offering you and a friend the chance to tour its many facets with a place on its Rajasthan Forts & Tigers trip. All you have to do is tell us the name of the magnificent fort (and now a hotel) in the image above – and if you need a clue, head to www.indiaunlocked.net for a hint and some fresh, inspirational ideas on how to explore this remarkable country. The Land of Kings For a region ruled by a monarchs until 1947, it’s no surprise…

‘Always remain respectful when visiting spiritual places. It is your responsibility to behave, whatever the reasons for your visit’ Q Is a self-drive trip in Colombia safe? What precautions should I take along the way? Lauren Howard, via email A Safe? Maybe. But worth it? Maybe not. Buses cover most of the country (except parts of the Pacific Coast and Amazonia, which have no road access); they’re also good value and comfortable, from local minibuses to luxury long-distance coaches. Several Colombian airlines offer competitive fares, too, saving you travel time, which you can then spend exploring. Nevertheless, if you’re set on driving, it does allow more flexibility to go where and when you like. La Guajira, in the isolated north-east, has few buses, so it’s recommended either to hire a…

HOOD This is usually adjustable courtesy of a drawstring or cord; others may not offer this or simply make the hem elasticated for a closer fit. Consider what you plan to use it for the most – if you’re headed somewhere cold or with biting insects, for instance, then you will probably benefit from a hood that fits tighter to your face. WEIGHT Always key when travelling, though remember it’s a case of – literally – balancing weight with the features and level of warmth you want. Some that offer fleece lining will naturally be heavier than those that don’t, and while those that don’t have a zip will be lighter, you might miss the ability to undo the front when it gets warmer. FABRIC Depending on the end use,…

There are some places in the world that seem to have truly earned their name. Consider the Valley of the Rocks in southern England, a place defined by its castle-like stone structures; or the Land of the Dawn- Lit Mountains (a literal translation of India’s Arunachal Pradesh), a state famed for its iconic undulations, which do indeed catch the morning light in spectacular fashion. But when it comes to Greenland, I’ve always felt its name was something of a misnomer. Renowned for its icebergs and huge ice sheet (the second-largest of its kind outside of Antarctica), not to mention polar bears and epic expeditions across its frozen interior – surely Whiteland would have been more apt? So, when I heard that this country, a land defined by a frosty tundra…

At Matavai Bay the incoming waves hurried through a gap in the reef before breaking on the chocolate-coloured sand. I sensed history in the warm breeze on a beach that, two centuries ago, saw one of the most remarkable travel stories ever told unravel. It was 26 October 1788 and the HMAV Bounty had slipped through the reef to anchor in this northern Tahitian bay. The Bounty’s mission was to collect breadfruit saplings to transport to Britain’s West Indian colonies. Lieutenant William Bligh’s discipline had been so exacting that Tahitian life proved a hedonistic sojourn as the crew consorted with the island women and feasted well. Discipline had collapsed. Weeks after departing Tahiti in April 1789, Fletcher Christian led the famous mutiny on the Bounty, seizing control of the ship…

Get orientated St Petersburg is down to one man’s tenacity. Mere marshland a little over 300 years ago, its boggy setting would tell most builders that it’s no place for a city. Not Tsar Peter the Great. Once he nabbed the land off the Swedes in 1703, he set to work. It came at a price – the bones of labourers line its foundations – but just nine years later, Russia had a new capital. At the time it was a big statement of intent, and its elegance has stood the test of time. The web of canals built on the marsh draws comparisons to Venice today, and its smart mansions and avenues smack of Paris – not surprising considering the Tsar’s fleet of European architects at the time. Russia…

HANGING OUT Bahia, Brazil Photographer: Luciano Candisani Having clambered up a cecropia tree in the Atlantic Forest, photographer Luciano Candisani came nose-to-snout with a three- toed sloth swinging on a branch as it fed on the leaves. This rare close-up, taken high in the canopy, impressed visitors to the Natural History Museum’s Wildlife Photographer of the Year 2017 competition, so much so that it won the ‘People’s Choice’ award. Proof that if you make the effort on your travels, you never know what kind of rewards you’ll find. The Natural History Museum’s Wildlife Photographer of the Year 2017 exhibition is open until 28 May 2018; nhm.ac.uk FACES TELL STORIES Madagascar Photographer: Serge Anton As much as an otherworldly landscape or a flash of wildlife is an inspiring…

Why go? India is laced with some glittering experiences but a trip to Punjab’s Amritsar, deep in the far north-west, is truly dazzling – literally. Its gilded shrine is the undisputed star of the city, and it’s now only a single jump away with Air India’s newly launched direct flights from Birmingham. Amritsar’s Golden Temple (Harmandir Sahib) is Sikhism’s holiest site, and its crowds of pilgrims create an infectious atmosphere for travellers. Look past the gold, however, and you’ll find the shrine is part of a much wider temple complex – a city within a city. The milky blue waters of Amrit Sarovar – which the city is named after – are skirted by marble walkways, while the Central Sikh Museum houses paintings, manuscripts and a wealth of religious history.…

1 BOAT OR 4WD IN THE PANTANAL, BRAZIL WHERE: Grosso Grosso Ignore that the public face of the Brazilian Pantanal is the piranha, and just dive (figuratively speaking) into the world’s largest wetland region – either by boat or by driving the 147km Transpantaneira across Mato Grosso. The Pantanal is home to more than 1,000 bird species while its long list of mammals includes the giant river otter, wolf, tapir and jaguar. WHEN: Most visit between April and November, but the best time to see mammals in the wild is between July and October, as dry season ramps up. HOW: For the northern Pantanal, fly into Cuiabá and it’s a 1.5hr drive to the Transpantaneira; for the south, fly into either Corumbá or Campo Grande. 2 SNORKELLING IN THE WORLD’S…

The early-morning bus shuddered to a halt in the little town with a big name: Thiruparakundaram. Deep in the south-east corner of India, we arrived near the gateway of the temple I’d come to visit, where a cluster of sodden pilgrims were preparing to perform a puja (worship) after their ritual bathe. The air was still cool and the bazaar quiet, save for the roar of a kerosene stove at a tea stall and what sounded like chanting coming from a side road. At first I thought it was a recording; then I realised the voices were real, and that there were lots of them, producing a swirl of notes that rose and fell in archaic intervals, underscored by strange, syncopated rhythms. The sound was coming through the open windows…

After dozens of visits to Canada, nothing has stayed with me as vividly as my time in Churchill, looking for polar bears around Hudson Bay. But while the wildlife is the main attraction here, this town of about 1,000 people is an extraordinary place, with visiting scientists, lifelong Churchillians and non-Canadians so drawn to its wild beauty that they have made it their home. It recalled the same spirit that I found in accounts by the British explorer Samuel Hearne, whose journeys through the Arctic over two centuries ago made rich reading during the long, dark nights. The first polar bear I saw was dozing in the lee of a snow-covered rock and blended so well with its surroundings that I was about to leave the safety of the vehicle.…

What’s the news with penguins? Well, on 25 April it’s World Penguin Day – and for good reason. It was established to mark the day when the penguins of Antarctica typically migrate to the icy, glacier-studded waters north of the White Continent. Sadly, their future is now in the balance. Penguin statistics for Antarctica are tricky to obtain – not surprising given the environment they live in – but in 2017 it was claimed that there were as few as 12 million. It sounds large, but doesn’t take into account that numbers of chinstrap and Adélie penguins have halved over the last 50 years. By 2100, scientists predict numbers will dwindle further still. Why are they under threat? Loss of habitat, basically. Floating icebergs act as platforms for penguins to…

Time is relative in Cairns and the Great Barrier Reef region. Why? Turn the clocks back a millennium or ten. Australia’s Aboriginal and Torres Strait Islander culture stands as one of the oldest living societies in the world, and here in the rainforest-draped north there are thousands of years of human history to be discovered. The region grants travellers rich insight into the Indigenous way of life. Take, as an example, Flight Centre’s full day Cape Tribulation, Daintree & Mossman tour (prices from £135pp), which combines the crystal-clear pools and towering trees of the gorge itself with rich insight from its Indigenous people. But for those keen to explore more areas steeped in tradition and heritage, the region provides plenty of opportunity to wander further: you can catch mud crab…

Few people realise quite what a natural wonder ‘the Sunshine Coast’ is. The area contains an astonishing diversity of landscapes that go beyond the usual beachy escapes and gift travellers the chance to experience Queensland at its most verdant and varied. Case in point is the Noosa Everglades, one of the planet’s two official Everglade systems. This 60km labyrinth of swamps, river and lakes is nature at its rawest. Walk its trails or – better yet – explore via kayak to reveal its wealth of fauna and flora; the Cooloola section boasts a greater density of flora than any other part of coastal Queensland. Visitors can then enjoy a double-hit of nature at its richest. The Great Sandy and Noosa Biosphere Reserves are the only two UNESCO Biospheres in Queensland…

Where does your Wanderlust take you? Every month, we ask ‘Where does your Wanderlust take you?’, giving you a chance to win a goody bag including a versatile 100% Merino Wool Buff® – the ultimate travel accessory (£26.75 RRP). But can you top Liz (above)? Show us where your Wanderlust takes you and where you take your Wanderlust! Take your magazine with you on your next trip and share a pic with us. Post it on our Facebook wall, tweet it to us at @wanderlustmag, email it to fromtheroad@wanderlust.co.uk  or hashtag it #wanderlustmag on Instagram.…

Before you arrive “They say that in that bar there is a certain drink you can order where staff will do something rather ‘special’ with the beer bottle,” said my guide, leaving the comment to hang in the air as we drifted further down the wide streets of Vesterbro. Formerly a seedy area of the city famed for its prostitution, drugs and porn shops, this district – sat to the south-west side of the central train station and main shopping area – is now one of Copenhagen’s most up-and-coming areas. It’s all the more surprising given that when most people think of the Danish capital, they recall the innocent tales of Hans Christian Andersen, celebrated here in the Fairytale House (a museum dedicated to the author’s life and stories) and…

“There’s nothing quite like climbing on board the epic Trans-Siberian Railway – you fee like a pioneering explorer, and in 2018 there’s no better time to exp ore some of the country’s lesser-known cities.” Peter Wybrow, Russia Travel Specialist With its grand cities, incredible history and undiscovered regions, Russia is one of Regent’s favourite destinations. We have been pioneering travel experiences through this fascinating country for over thirty years. Most first-time visitors head to the current and former capitals, Moscow and St Petersburg. Both cities possess their own unique charms; Moscow with its air of chintzy glamour, iconic landmarks and incredible architecture, and St Petersburg, a cultural hub, where world-class ballet, opera and theatre flourish, and serene canals line boulevards oozing Parisian sophistication. Russia is also home to one of…

With their snow-white faces, blood-red lips and perfectly sculpted hair, geisha are an icon of Japanese culture. But if you’re in western Japan, particularly Kyoto, the correct term for them is geiko (or maiko if they’re still in training). Still, regardless of nomenclature, they’re a big draw for visitors to Kyoto, your pick as Top City in Wanderlust’s Reader Travel Awards 2018 (see p131). Where can I see geiko? All across the city. Kyoto has several geiko districts that date back to Japan’s Edo period (1603-1868), a boom era for the country’s arts and entertainment. Here, ochayas (teahouses) – the most exclusive of geiko haunts – and seasoned restaurants act as checkpoints for the ladies as they scoot between jobs. It’s these A-to-B transitions where you can be most hopeful…

Finding that next big trip is the enduring conundrum. Every year, countries across the globe serve up fresh new experiences, but they can be hard to track down. That’s where Journey Latin America come in. With nearly 40 years of experience sending delighted travellers around South and Central America, the specialist tour operator knows plenty of places across the continent that have something to shout about. So here’s what they say should be on your wishlist… Peru The release of Paddington 2 had us fall in love with Michael Bond’s creation all over again. With a new Paddington Bear book celebrating its hero’s 60th anniversary hitting shelves in 2018, it seems only right to visit the country and the native ursines that inspired it all. The cloud forests of northern…

Ensuring we’re safe while travelling is something we all think about, no matter the ‘perceived risk’ of the country we’re visiting. However, sometimes it can be hard to know what safety measures to take or what to believe from all the cautionary tales. Read on for our essential safety tips... Before you go Research is the best kind of preparation, no matter where you’re heading. “Your first stop should be the Foreign and Commonwealth Office (FCO; gov.uk/foreign-travel-advice),” advises Lloyd Figgins, travel risk expert and author of The Travel Survival Guide. “Don’t just rely on one source, though. Mix up your research with local government websites and good old guidebooks, too.” It’s worth thinking about upgrading your bags if your destination is known for petty crime. Look for one that offers…

Craggy stretches of mountains gouged by rocky canyons. Crystalline waters rippled by the paddling limbs of turtles. City markets echoing with morning chaos. Oman is the Arabia your mind pictures. Now, the Ministry of Tourism, Oman and tour operator Wild Frontiers are offering you the chance to experience the country on the eight-day Forts & Deserts of Oman tour. It’s time to see the real Arabia... TAKE TO THE SANDS In a region where oil-fuelled excess rules, Oman is refreshingly steadfast, seemingly paused in time. It is a country proud of its heritage, and nowhere represents the Arabia of old better than the Sharqiyah Sands, a golden expanse where dunes top 100m and snake over 170km. The sense of solitude is almost humbling as the horizon unfolds before you. A…

They call Queensland the Sunshine State – but that golden weather is just the start of it. This fabled stretch of Australia is so rich in natural beauty and diversity, so layered with adventure and spectacle, that its reputation among travellers has become as vast as the state itself. The twin pulls of the Sunshine Coast and the Cairns & Great Barrier Reef region make it the kind of place travellers want – and need – to explore for weeks. It’s easily visited, too – a straightforward flight into Brisbane and out of Cairns, or vice versa. It’s even more stress-free if you book with a company in the know. Flight Centre’s decades of experience means its Travel Experts are able to tailor the perfect Queensland itinerary for travellers, combining…

Here’s the first thing you need to know: it’s called the Sunshine Coast for a reason. Statistics show that this part of Queensland basks in an average of seven hours of sunshine every day, even when you’re including the months that pass – rather laughably – for winter. It’s blessed too with the kind of location that could have been designed specifically with Instagram in mind, occupying the scenic hinterland and coastal strip between Brisbane and Fraser Island. But it’s not just winning on aesthetics. The area’s also rammed to the gills with proper, trip-defining experiences: the food scene, the natural variety and the festival calendar are all top class, and having somewhere as incredible as Noosa up its sleeve gives it serious pulling power. What’s more, with activities ranging…

EASTER ISLAND, Chile GOOD FOR: Strange and intriguing statues 2,000km from anywhere When your nearest inhabited neighbour is almost equally remote Pitcairn, you know you’re far from home. Despite its Polynesian roots and its mid-Pacific location some 3,500km west of mainland South America, Easter Island belongs to Chile – it was annexed by the country in 1888. However, by that time, the traditional society of the local Rapa Nui people had already collapsed, due to deforestation, slave raiders and outbreaks of disease brought by foreign explorers. Thus little is known about the island’s most remarkable attraction: its mysterious moai. No one quite knows why the Rapa Nui carved more than 800 of these huge stone heads, which weigh up to 86,000kg. Theories abound; some think they’re the work of aliens.…

The lad with the gelled hair and fashionable jacket was in his mid-teens, cool but in a rather self-conscious way. He pulled out his phone, extended his arm and grinned widely as he did a thumbs up to the camera. Just like any other tourist selfie really – except that in this case he had carefully positioned himself so that a pillar adorned with human skulls was just over his shoulder. If he had read the slightly chilling inscription at the entrance to the chapel – ‘We, the bones that are here, we await yours’ – then he was showing no sign of contemplation or reflection. Capela dos Ossos, the Chapel of Bones, is perhaps the best known but most macabre sight in Évora, one of Portugal’s most beautiful towns,…