Inhaltsverzeichnis für April 2017 in Wanderlust

FJORD FRONT ROW Naerøyfjord, Norway Photographer: Adam Major Glancing up at Norway’s fjords from boat or kayak is one of travel’s eye-popping sights. But as snapper Adam Major expertly shows in this shot of a hiker gazing upon glacier-carved Naerøyfjord from atop the perilous edge of Breiskrednosi, sometimes the most epic views are from above. This spectacle of nature’s paintbrush is one of the shortlisted photos featured in this year’s accompanying book for the annual Outdoor Photographer of the Year 2016 competition. Pure natural drama. Outdoor Photographer of the Year: Portfolio II (Ammonite Press; £25). Out now; www.opoty.co.uk WINGING IT Québec, Canada Photographer: Giovanni Frescura Few moments transfix our attention like a bird of prey in full flight, especially one with a wingspan like this snowy owl (up…

 Congratulations on being made a Visit Wales ambassador ! You grew up in Wales, toured the world and lived in the USA – how does Wales compare with the rest of the planet? ‘People ask where I’m from because of my accent. Believe it or not, people outside of Wales still find it hard to place Wales’ Well that’s the beauty of it. Sometimes it takes leaving a place to realise what makes that place unique. It gives you a really good perspective on your own country and it allows you to weigh everything up and appreciate it all anew. Do you keep Wales close to your heart on your travels? It’s hard for me to separate my sense of identity from the place I was brought up in. It…

YES Ruth Thomas, Wanderlust reader “Trump’s policies are completely against what I believe in and I’ve been very outspoken against him. In some ways it would be interesting to see if I did get turned back at the border. But I’m not going to test this out as I am hoping that in four years there will be a change of regime and I don’t want a black mark against my name when that happens.” NO Julia Hammond, Wanderlust reader “Hell no! He’s a democratically elected leader and boycotting the USA won’t make a bit of difference to him or the people who elected him. If we went around boycotting places because we didn’t like what their leaders were doing, there wouldn’t be many places left to visit. But I…

VITAL STATISTICS Main town: Exmouth Population: 2,207 (swells to 6,000 in the summer months) Language: English Time: GMT+8 International dialling code: +61 Visas: Required by UK nationals. British citizens can apply for a free eVisitor visa from the Department of Immigration (www.immi.gov.au). Money: Australian dollar (A$), currently around A$1.67 to the UK£ When to go Off season – no humpback sightings. Overlap period – a good chance to see humpbacks and whale sharks; the latter of these start appearing in March. Migration season – peak humpback-spotting period in Exmouth and Coral Bay, with the migration then in full swing. Health & safety Temperatures regularly exceed 40ºC, so wear high-factor sunblock at all times and a hat. Sharks are present at Ningaloo but rarely bother snorkellers. Further reading & information West…

How did you plan a multi-generational trip? I think the key for us was delegating different jobs to different people. My family live all over the country, so to get everyone to one airport at the same time can prove difficult. You need to set a date and stick to it. Choose one person to be in charge of flights and arranging special requirements at airports – this is crucial if you have people who aren’t very mobile. Similarly, it’s also good to organise transport at the other end in advance too. How do you balance everyone’s different demands and interests? We stick to activities that everyone can join in with. Although we all have different interests, everyone enjoys going on a sightseeing tours of different cities and vineyards. When…

1 Gear up  Underwater housings are available for many cameras, smartphones and action cameras, which allow you to take your device below the waves. Housing with an optical quality glass port over the lens will ensure the best possible results. Check the depth rating of the housing and avoid going any deeper with it – your device won’t enjoy an encounter with saltwater. 2 Use a good guide  Photography conditions in the sea are heavily influenced by the underwater topography of the area and prevailing weather and tide conditions. Using local, qualified dive guides or joining a dive centre trip will significantly increase your chances of seeing impressive sea life and help you to be in the right place at the right time for the best light and visibility. 3…

1 Andrés Carne de Res, Chía, Colombia Having started out as a burger shack over 25 years ago, this is now a nightlife hotspot for locals. Pulsing with music and good food, it’s a raw shot of Colombian culture – though it is outside the city, so book your ride back in advance. 2 Amaz, Lima, Peru  This notable restaurant and bar draws its inspiration from the wilds of the Peruvian Amazon, with its cocktails deriving straight from the jungle, utilising rarely tasted fruits like taperibá and cocona. 3 Jobi, Rio de Janeiro, Brazil Forget bottled beer, it’s all about chope (draft) in Rio, and this institution (dating from 1956) serves it better than anywhere else, as locals rolling in from a day on the Copacabana would attest. 4 W…

‘Life isn’t a rehearsal, and looking back over my life I now realise that whenever I made myself do something that scared me, it always turned out to be the best experience ever’ You will never see a sky as beautiful as the sun rising over the Himalayas from Darjeeling,” my father said with an unaccustomed hint of nostalgia in his voice. I was five years old and we were sitting atop a hill watching the sun go down over the Essex town where we lived. From that moment, that exact moment, I longed to see that sunrise for myself and visit Agra, where my grandfather was stationed with the army when dad was born. But it took me a while. Fifty years later, my daughter and I travelled independently…

• Your Story Stagger the line Winner of our ‘Active Challenge’ online writing competition, Caroline Nye recalls trekking in supplies for Nepalese refugees… As I shuffled to the edge of the wooden platform and squinted apprehensively up at the alluring Himalayan peak, I was distracted by a friendly, toothless grin. There stood the Nepalese woman who had just sold me a restorative Coca-Cola. Her encouraging nod gently willed me to carry on, but an arduous hike up a steep incline awaited. This was hiking with a purpose, though: to deliver medicine to the Tibetan refugee camps that scattered the foothills of the Himalaya. But while the trail I followed was well worn, thousands of years of footsteps had made it no less difficult, and I winced, envious of the sherpas…

After reading about the Trans-Siberian train journey [‘Trans-Siberia: The Wrong Way Round’, Nov 2016, issue 171], I wanted to share our adventure, where we travelled as far as we could by train. We started in Exeter and, seven weeks and 17 trains later, arrived in Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam. We travelled via Belgium, Germany, Poland, Belarus, Russia, Mongolia, China, with a side jaunt by ferry to Taiwan, and down through Vietnam! You meet so many fascinating people and see so much more along the way. I can’t wait to plan the next trip! Debra Travers, via email…

STATE CAPITAL: Sydney TIME ZONE: GMT +10 VISAS: British travellers need a visa to enter Australia. The eVisitor visa is free and can be obtained online from the Department of Immigration & Border Protection (border.gov.au). It allows for visits of up to three months. MONEY: Australian dollar (£1 = approximately AUD 1.62) WHEN TO GO: NSW is a year-round destination, with seasons that are inverse of those in the UK, with summer from December to February and a winter from June to August, which boasts average temperatures of 16°C. GETTING THERE & AROUND: Flights from the UK are frequent, with the award-winning Singapore Airlines among those offering a one-stop service. In NSW itself, there’s a good road network for hire vehicles and public buses, as well as various rail routes.…

SILK ROAD: TRIP PLANNER Your guide to seeing the best of this ancient network – including: China, Iran, Uzbekistan, Tajikistan, Turkmenistan and Kyrgyzstan PLUS North Korea – head to the north where most visitors never see... until now Kenya’s Wild Dogs – journey to Sosian Ranch with the best dog tracker in Africa Switzerland – undertake the Grand Tour of mountains, vineyards and glaciers And much, much more... FREE £50 travel voucher if you subscribe now – see wanderlust.co.uk/ subscribe for our latest special offers…

1 According to Aboriginal legend, whales beach themselves upon death to return the spirits of unborn children back to the land; p54 2 Melting snow, the midnight sun, lakes and birch forests make Arctic Sweden in summer prime walking territory; p80 3 Travelling the world by rail on your own? Many sleeper trains offer single cabins for the same price as doubles; p100 4 North Wales is a foodie hub – 41 of its restaurants appear in the 2017 Michelin guide; p131 5 Living in Canada’s Yukon is tough – some residents have to travel nearly 200km to do their weekly shopping; p24…

Our love affair with chilli peppers knows no bounds. These days, it’s a key ingredient in countless world cuisines that travellers will find placed in front of them, from the fiery stews of West Africa to the red-hot curries of India. But its origins lie in neither. Central and South America lays true claim to this humble capsicum, tracing its use back to the Mayan, Incan and Aztec civilisations. Back then, chillies were used as a meat preserve. But today, this plant (aji) has become the cornerstone of Latin American cooking. Whether it is spicing up a bland Andean diet of spuds and corn with yellow amarillo peppers, dotting a fishy ceviche in Lima or firing Venezuela’s guacamole-like guasacaca, typically served alongside tender grilled meat, visitors to the New World…

CHANNEL ISLANDS HERITAGE FESTIVAL Channel Islands, 8 Apr-10 May www.visitguernsey.com www.visitjersey.com Various locations. Visit websites for full details and tickets. The Channel Islands Heritage Festival returns for 2017, with lots of history-laden walks, tours and exhibitions. In Jersey, there are a huge range of events planned: tours of its myth-shrouded caves, castle open days and dinners showcasing its cuisine. Guernsey’s line-up is similarly packed, with exhibitions depicting its horde of myths and legends, heritage workshops and tours of its manor houses and forts. The islands of Alderney, Sark and Herm also have a number of events planned. EVEREST RESCUE London, 28 Mar www.rgs.org Royal Geographical Society, 1 Kensington Gore, SW7 2AR. From 6.45pm; tickets from £20, with a percentage going to ABF The Soldiers’ Charity. For tickets, visit tinyurl.com/everestrescue War…

Think bear watching and you think black bears in Canada. Or grizzly bears eagerly awaiting the salmon run by the rivers of Yellowstone National Park in North America – perhaps even sun bears in the jungles of Borneo, but very few travellers’ first thoughts leap to Macedonia. With balmy weather, mountainous landscapes pock-marked with deep blue lakes and as many old towns as there are archaeological sites, Macedonia slots in effortlessly with its Balkan neighbours. But there’s one thing Macedonia offers that visitors won’t find in Montenegro or Albania – the opportunity to see some of Europe’s last wild brown bears. The Eurasian brown bear was once found all across Europe but now the species range is limited to Scandinavia, Russia and the eastern regions of the continent – including…

‘Live coral looks beautiful but innocuous it is not – look but do not touch; after contact with coral it is best to irrigate the skin with vinegar’ Whether climbing into a secluded forest pond or swimming with humpbacks off the Western Australian coast, it is often the lure of the unknown that draws us into the water. Paradoxically, it is also what goes unseen that people imagine poses the biggest threat to our safety. But while it is easy to imagine piranhas or sharks lurking beneath, how likely is a dangerous encounter while swimming? The USA has suffered the most recorded shark attacks on Earth, claim Florida’s International Shark Attack File, yet the stats show you are around a thousand times more likely to drown in its waters than…

FABRIC Ripstop fabric is always a great choice, and means the trousers won’t tear far if snagged. Also look for a good UPF rating, as this offers protection from the sun – 15 is pretty decent but 50+ is the best. FIT When trying on trousers, it’s always worth seeing how they fit when both standing and sitting – make sure the waist doesn’t go down too low at the back when sat, and that the legs don’t rise up too far either. WEIGHT You don’t want your trousers to weigh you down – literally – so look for a lightweight, durable non-crease fabric that rolls down small and dries quickly. POCKETS Great if you need them, heavy if you don’t – select the model with the right amount for…

VITAL STATISTICS Main city: Kiruna Population: 250,000 Language: Swedish; Sami dialect Time: GMT+2 (Oct–Mar GMT+1) International dialling code: +46 Visas: Not required by UK nationals for stays of up to 90 days Money: Swedish Krona (SEK), currently SEK11 to the UK£ When to go Summer season – peak hiking time, with long hours of daylight and less snow. Winter season – the STF huts open in late February. April to mid-May is the best time to ski the Kungsleden (King’s Trail). Abisko is also one of Europe’s best places to witness the aurora borealis on clear winter nights (October-April) . Off season – neither snowy enough to ski the trail nor warm enough to hike; huts will also close. Health & safety The weather can change quickly – check before…

Watering holes tend to be associated with wildlife-spotting opportunities, but they’re just as good for insights into local society, too – whether remote wells or buzzy city bars. India’s stepwells were first built in 200AD, soon becoming social hubs. The intricacy of their designs matched their growing status and, while modern water systems have since replaced them, they remain as fine examples of Indian architecture, like Mahila Bag Jhalra in Jodhpur (pictured above). This stepwell and many others are the subject of Victoria Lautman’s The Vanishing Stepwells of India (Merrell Publishers; £40; out now). While they may have fallen into disrepair, images such as this that will ensure that their legacy lives on. The other way to help, of course, is to stick them on your next Indian itinerary.…

CERYS MATTHEWS Singer and Visit Wales ambassador Singer Cerys has toured all around the world as the frontwoman of ’90s Welsh indie band Catatonia, but proves nowhere is quite like home with her role as a passionate ambassador for Visit Wales. With 2017 being the country’s ‘Year of Legend’ she shares with us the folklore that the Welsh hills and coasts are plentifully steeped in (p18) Mountain, desert, ocean or jungle… which are you? Mountain. First great travel experience? Almost dying off the coast of the Pacific island of Nauru when I was wild swimming. Favourite journey? Probably when I went to Kiribati in the central Pacific. Top five places worldwide? It’s got to be Wales, obviously, and Norway. I think those two are enough! Passport stamp you’re proudest of?…

1 Mi Teleférico, Bolivia  The world’s highest cable car (over 4,000m above sea level), which connects La Paz with the Andean city of El Alto, affords spectacular cityscapes and mountain views. The cheap-as-chips 25p fare is pretty good, too... 2 Ngong Ping 360, Hong Kong  Glass-bottomed cars mean you get a first-hand, birds-eye glimpse of Hong Kong’s lush Lantau Island, zipping over its forested hills to the 34m-tall Tian Tan Buddha statue and the sacred Po Lin monastery. 3 CabriO, Switzerland  Feel the alpine wind in your hair on the planet’s only open-top cable car. Rising to the top of the 1,900m-high Mount Stanserhorn in seven minutes, you’ll bag unrivalled views of Lake Lucerne at its summit. 4 Cape Town, South Africa  One of the biggest cable car success stories,…

A packed shelf of big hitters and bigger adventures this month. Straddling both of those is Levison Wood, whose Walking the Americas (£20, Hodder & Stoughton) successfully fleshes out his Mexico-to-Colombia TV trek with rich human detail and strong context. Of course, explorers come in all shapes, sizes and ages. The Frozen Frontier (£19, Bloomsbury) sees 73-year-old seafarer David Scott Cowper sail through the Northwest Passage accompanied by his sole crew, Jane Maufe (69), the first woman to cross the Passage and who documents their journey. Martin Berthoud manages to make his life in the Foreign Office sound like one big adventure in Undiplomatic Episodes (£9, Troubadour). The inquisitive diplomat covers a career spanning Outer Mongolia, Iran, Finland, Oz and Trinidad & Tobago. Diplomacy is also the name of the…

VITAL STATISTICS Official start: Dawson Creek, British Columbia, Canada End of the road: Delta Junction, Alaska, USA Road length: 1,422 miles / 2,288km (approx) States/Provinces: British Columbia (Canada), Yukon (Canada), Alaska (USA) Visas: UK nationals require an ESTA to enter the USA ($14/£11; valid for two years). Apply at least 72 hours before your trip at https://esta.cbp.dhs.gov/esta. Canada entry requires the similar eTA, which costs C$7 (£4) and is valid for five years. Apply at least 72 hours before travel – it can take longer – at cic.gc.ca/english/visit/visas.asp Money: US dollar (USD), currently $1.25 to the UK£; Canadian dollar (CAN), currently C$1.65 to the UK£. When to go Best for a road trip – expect open roads, longer days and warmer weather. Parks and trails get busy, so book hotels…

WINTER WONDERS: Deep inside the Arctic Circle, Lappeasuando is the perfect base to enjoy a range of winter activities like dogsledding, snowshoeing and ice fishing in frozen lakes – all with the added bonus of the extraordinary northern lights! COOL STAYS: Staying in an ice room at the ICEHOTEL is one of the most incredible stays you could have, anywhere. Everything around you looks so pristine. Every guest is provided with some serious winter overall gear and boots to wear throughout. You don’t feel the cold at all, even if it’s -20°C outside! Try having dinner at the Homestead restaurant, a charming timber building built in 1768, a short walk from the ICEHOTEL – it offers a rustic á la carte menu in a welcoming and homely atmosphere. STOCKHOLM SUMMERS:…

Why are we talking about a wall? It’s not just a wall, it’s Britain’s largest surviving remnant of Roman rule – not to mention a staggering monument. Built nearly two millennia ago to protect Roman Britain’s northern fringes from marauding Picts, much of the 117km-long barrier is now in ruins, but both its route and history are still traceable. And in 2017, Emperor Hadrian’s legacy celebrates 30 years of UNESCO status – 1,600 years after the Romans left Britain. Wow. It sounds like a mighty feat. It was. It took more than 15,000 men six years (122-128 AD) to build it out of stone and turf, stretching from Solway Firth estuary in the west to where the River Tyne approaches the eastern coast. Forts and milecastles stud its length, but…

ALPKIT Karoo/ Tonka £40/£45   www.alpkit.com The test: At the budget end of the scale comes this quick-drying, fast-wicking trouser with a high UPF of 50+. The waistband is lined with a soft fabric for comfort, and the two open pockets at the front are mesh-lined, so you don’t get too hot. Inside one of the front pockets is a hidden zipped security pocket. There’s also a zipped pocket further down the leg and two open back pockets. The knees are articulated, to help you walk easier, and you can even roll up the legs and button them to allow for a thee-quarter length. They were the lightest on test (248g; size 12), so luggage friendly – but a little more stretch would have made them ideal. The verdict: A…

TOP COUNTRY: NEW ZEALAND New Zealand’s trademark combo of mountain scenery, whalewatching, giant glaciers, water-streaked fjords and sulphur-rich volcanic lands proves irresistible to you once again. Thankfully, it’s a country that more than bears repeat visits, with a vast range of experiences to be had. Spy dolphins while cruising majestic Milford Sound, listen to the creak of the Franz Josef glacier, spot kiwi birds by moonlight on Stewart Island and ascend Mount Cook in the footsteps of Edmund Hillary. The options are endless – and increasing, with the launch last year of the Mount Taranaki Pouakai Crossing, to rival New Zealand’s already world-famous Tongariro day walk. As such, it’s done the unthinkable and strengthened its grip on this title with a near-perfect score – some good news following the tragic…

Travelling solo can be a liberating experience, but only if you approach it in the right way. Here are some tips on how to stay safe, eat alone, meet others and, above all, have fun… • Eating alone can be a worry for those travelling solo. But it needn’t be. Bring something practical to do, such as filling in a diary or checking your emails – something you don’t mind being distracted from. And don’t let the waiter shut you away in a corner; a spot in the midst of things affords better people-watching, while sitting at a bar or counter allows others to join you and frees you up to talk to the staff, who usually have some good local tips. • Stay safe. It is not uncommon for solo travellers…

Wonder walks After reading about the Camino de Santiago [‘Walk ThisWay’, March 2017, issue 174], I was inspired to share some of my favourite walks. Our very own British coast-to-coast is superb. It’s a 300-odd kilometre walk that takes in the best of North England: starting with the Irish Sea at St Bees in Cumbria, then heading over the Roof of England before dropping down into one of England’s most charming fishing villages – Robin Hood’s Bay. If you run it or route-march it, you can complete it in a handful of days, but if you want to linger in the Lake District or Yorkshire villages, you’ll need two, or even better, three weeks. Helen Moat, via website After your piece on the Camino de Santiago [March 2017, issue 174],…

“Few destinations are as gloriously diverse as New South Wales, and this variety is precisely what gives the region such broad appeal” Any trip Down Under is always going to involve far more than mere sightseeing. The relaxed Australian way of life is an inseparable part of the overall experience, and in New South Wales you’ll find it in abundance – from its beach culture to its cuisine and festivals. The state’s gourmet offerings are especially enticing. Specialities include succulent prawns and premium oysters, artisan meats and farmhouse cheeses, and tropical fruit and fresh vegetables. Sydney has some of the best restaurants in the entire southern hemisphere, while many in regional New South Wales have garlands of their own. It’s vintners are just as laden with awards. New South Wales…