Inhaltsverzeichnis für October 2021 in Wallpaper

Originally designed in 1958, Ole Wanscher’s sculptural ‘OW58’ T-chair, with its characteristic T-shaped backrest and sinuous lines crafted from oak or walnut, is the latest addition to Carl Hansen’s offering of furniture created by giants of Danish design. Wanscher learned his craft under Kaare Klint, the father of modern Danish design, and his style embodies the movement perfectly, with discreet design details and functionality at the core of each piece. ‘Ole Wanscher had a knack for in-depth design,’ says Carl Hansen CEO Knud Erik Hansen. ‘He sought to find the ideal furniture constructions, which he then gave a more modern expression.’ Faithfully reproduced with a small height adjustment, the T-chair joins a wide collection of pieces by the designer in the Carl Hansen catalogue, including the ‘Colonial’ and ‘Beak’ chairs.…

Most of us will have heard about giant data centres, where Internet Protocol (IP) traffic – colloquially referred to as data – flows every time we use the internet, email or apps on smartphones and other connected devices. Out of sight, these servers are powered up and running all day, every day, requiring vast quantities of energy to run and cool. Data flow currently accounts for one per cent of global carbon emissions, having grown 12-fold since 2010 and overtaken the aviation industry. We have become accustomed to using more and more data, a seemingly inexhaustible resource that is out of sight, out of mind. As well as the gigabytes gobbled up by my website, email and mobile usage, and the 1TB of physical storage on my devices, there’s also…

Seven years ago, French embroidery house Montex combined tiny concrete cubes with pieces of leather, inventing a totally unique fabric for Chanel’s A/W14 haute couture collection. Now Chanel has turned concrete into a sort of fabric once more, with a head-turning new building, designed by French architect Rudy Ricciotti (W*157), which is wrapped in a chrysalis of white concrete threadlike structures. Located on the northern edge of Paris, the building covers 25,000 sq m on seven floors. It houses 600 people and 11 métiers d’art, the ateliers behind millions of hours of painstaking craftsmanship (embroidering sequins, trimming feathers, sculpting sunburst pleats) that transforms apparel into art. Chanel has named the building Le 19M – ‘M’ for mains (hands), métier (craftsmanship) and mode (fashion), and 19 for the arrondissement and Coco…

Frida Escobedo is busy. While the pandemic slowed things down a bit for her and her Mexico City practice, also coinciding with a break from academic teaching, business is now picking up again. She currently has some 15 projects on the go, is about to travel to Europe to meet a client, and has been knee-deep prepping for a new design workshop she is about to lead at the Yale School of Architecture, kicking off in spring 2022. It is a stage of intense research and preparation, an incredibly demanding and rich period in an architect’s creative process that often remains unseen. While disclosing competition wins and celebrating high profile completions with sleek, immaculate photography feels central to the day-to-day of architecture practice, these are only short moments in the…

Michèle Lamy is a mesmeric force of intention. As a co-founding partner of Owenscorp and the executive manager of the Rick Owens furniture collection, her life is a tactile one. The jewelled mouth, the smudged, blackened fingertips, the clank of bangles and the dulcet French drawl are Lamy’s talismanic armour and invitation. She creates opulently monastic home furnishings and sculptures in metal, bone, wood, cement and stone – and cocoons herself in silk, wool, leather, nylon and languid plumes of cigarette smoke. When we speak via Zoom in mid-August, Lamy is fresh from an appointment with the butcher. ‘We have been doing some furniture pieces in ox bone, which looks just like ivory, and we needed some more,’ she says. ‘The artisans at the atelier like it so much because…

Warm metallic tones lend a welcome toughness to the cool whites of a wedding dress, with chunky rose gold chain links adding an androgynous touch to the femininity of frou-frou frills. Patek Philippe veers away from the overly delicate in its only collection aimed solely at women, translating the clean design codes of its traditionally male collections into the women’s Twenty-4 collection. A dial, embellished with a subtle pattern that recalls the grainy textured finish of silk, is juxtaposed with the smooth finish of rose gold and edged in a double loop of diamonds for a sporty luxe finish. A round case and the uncluttered simplicity of the face make this the ideal choice for a more casual celebration.…

Forget timeless and understated. Your big day should be all about seizing the moment, using the conduit of The Dress to really say something. Never shy of a tulle ruffle, Molly Goddard’s recent foray into bridalwear was a natural evolution for the London designer. Her distinctly feminine approach has a cool edge that keeps things on the right side of frou-frou. Meanwhile, In-Grid Studio, known for its riffs on the white shirt, expanded into wedding attire when co-founder Katie Barclay started creating ‘art-focused couture pieces’. Her clean, voluminous shapes are striking and entirely modern. Christopher Kane laces his semi-sheer, marabou-trimmed, figure-skimming gowns with a tantalising lick of subversion, while London studio Wed romantically reimagines beautiful deadstock fabrics into truly marvellous gowns – look out for its signature drapery and sequins.…

Crafted in inky lapis lazuli, Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Rendez-Vous Dazzling Moon Lazura sports a moonphase display drawn in milky white mother-of-pearl, with the moon suspended under polished gold constellations that map the night sky in accurate detail. The night scene is lit up by the halo of floating diamonds encircling the dial, which are held aloft by claws in a brilliant refraction of light. On the edge of the face sits a gold star; controlled by the second crown, it is designed to mark an extra-special calendar date – a function surely made with your wedding day in mind.…

It was the 71st night, a cold night in Rotterdam, recalls Mert Alas, when he and his team opened the oak casks in which his new gin had been ageing. They hadn’t expected to try the contents so soon, but this was all one big experiment, so why not? One sip of the honey-coloured liquid and it was immediately clear – it was perfect. Alas and his creative partner Marcus Piggott form the fashion photography duo Mert & Marcus, known for crafting glossy editorials that feature glamorised characters playing out off-kilter scenarios. Seventy One gin initially kicked off as an outlet outside Alas’ demanding, fast-paced world. ‘It started as a passion project. I was just doing it for myself as a way of doing something beyond photography,’ he says. The…

Touch, reflection and strength. How do our objects help combat isolation in a pandemic-afflicted reality? How can we foster a sense of touch in an increasingly virtual world? Wallpaper* and American Hardwood Export Council (AHEC) present Discovered, a platform to promote and support design’s next generation, in partnership with the Design Museum, London. Twenty young designers from 16 countries were invited to create objects that represent the functional and emotional connections to our everyday items, guided by the themes of touch, reflection and strength. To work with, the designers were given the choice of four sustainable US hardwoods: red oak, cherry, hard and soft maple. Their pieces have since been made by AHEC’s global manufacturing partners, and the results are unveiled here by Wallpaper* and on display at the Design…

American red oak American red oak is the dominant species in the US hardwood forests, 17.9 per cent of the resource overall, with distinctive grain and wood that is not always red in colour. The name comes from the leaf colour in the fall. Red oak may be sold on the basis of ‘northern’, ‘southern’ and ‘Appalachian’. Red oak trees grow naturally, and almost exclusively, in North America, although planted elsewhere. They are widely distributed throughout most of the eastern United States in mixed hardwood forests. The trees are very tall. There are many sub-species, all within the red oak classification, which grow at various latitudes; some high in the mountains and others on low land, giving rise to different characteristics. Thus there are significant variations in red oaks depending…

Welcome to the 25th anniversary issue of Wallpaper*, and what a quarter of a century it has been! In celebrating our 25th birthday, I wanted to join up the dots from the past, to distil what makes Wallpaper* so special, and then look forward to the next 25 years… With this in mind, I welcome my esteemed predecessors, Tyler Brûlé, Jeremy Langmead and Tony Chambers, to share their thoughts and experiences, as each wrote such significant chapters in the magazine’s history. Then, looking forward, we invite five creative visionaries, Frida Escobedo, Theaster Gates, Formafantasma, Michèle Lamy and Nendo, to each select five creative leaders of the future. We reveal the ever-brilliant artist Daniel Arsham’s furniture range with design gallery Friedman Benda (he even designed an epic limited-edition cover for our…

Jonathan Bell Do you attribute meaning to particular objects? Nipa Doshi I believe in materialism in a way that, for me, objects and things are almost a kind of symbol of our existence. They express human endeavour. JB Do you have a particular object that references your past and something which you still think about? ND One of the things I remember very distinctly from my childhood in Bombay was a portrait of my grandfather in the living room. For a long time, I thought it was a black and white photograph. It was only when I was older, and looked closer, that I realised it was painted as a black and white photograph. I don’t know if it’s still in my grandfather’s house, but the house still exists. I…

The artist Zoë Paul hadn’t planned to end up in a cave. A few months prior, the French maison Diptyque had approached her to take part in its celebratory 60th anniversary show, which has now opened in Paris, with pop-ups around the world to follow. The exhibition features original works by nine artists. Of these, five have created editioned objects fragranced by Diptyque perfume, with Paul drawing inspiration from Greece, Joël Andrianomearisoa from France, Johan Creten from Italy, Hiroshi Sugimoto from Japan, and Rabih Kayrouz from Lebanon. These five destinations were chosen because they were places Diptyque’s founders, Christiane Montadre-Gautrot, Yves Coueslant and Desmond Knox-Leet, often travelled to or took inspiration from. When the trio opened Diptyque in Paris in 1961, the store was not a fragrance house but rather…

While travelling around the British countryside, chances are you will come across a flock of colourful sheep in a field at some point in your journey. A familiar sight for country folks, and a vibrant surprise for others, smit marks – the spray-painted patches on the sheep – are commonly used by shepherds in the UK to identify animals in their herd. The chromatic custom is also the starting point for Peter Saville’s Technicolour collection of upholstery textiles, rugs and curtains created in collaboration with Kvadrat. Saville grew up visiting the countryside with his family, and developed a fascination with what he calls ‘rural graffiti’. ‘I’ve always seen the spray can as something modern, because it’s a technological development. There’s something very pop about it. So when I saw sheep…

Conceived in 2000 as an index of up-and-coming architectural talent, the Wallpaper* Architects’ Directory is our annual listing of emerging practices from across the globe. The project has, over the years, spanned styles and continents, while always championing the best young studios and showcasing inspiring work with an emphasis on the residential realm. With a 500-strong back catalogue of alumni, the Architects’ Directory returns for its 21st edition. Join us as we launch this year’s survey, casting a spotlight on 20 studios with plenty of promise, ideas and exciting architecture, from Australia, Canada, China, Colombia, Ghana, India, Indonesia, Japan, Malaysia, Mexico, the Netherlands, Nigeria, South Africa, South Korea, Spain, Sweden, the USA, and the UK. 1 Fabian Tan Malaysia Fabian Tan leads a small team of architects from his Kuala…

The life and work of Theaster Gates are famously intertwined with Chicago – the city where he was born, raised, and continues to be based, whose South Side neighbourhood he has transformed one building at a time. Lesser known is his long-standing affiliation with London. He remembers his first visit, in 1998, vividly: it included a trip to the Crafts Council Gallery. ‘I remember being so excited that I could see a Julian Stair work, and a Michael Cardew, a Shoji Hamada, and a Bernard Leach,’ he says, listing the ceramic artists who have since shaped his artistic practice. In 2012, he returned to London for his first show with White Cube, suspending a fire truck from the ceiling of its Bermondsey gallery, with a cabinet full of Ebony and…

It’s not every day a creative is given carte blanche to ‘design flames’ – yet this was one key task among many which Oki Sato of Nendo found himself tackling recently. These were admittedly no ordinary flames: they were created to flicker at the heart of the Olympic cauldron, designed by Nendo for this year’s belated summer games in Tokyo. Inspired by the sun, the white orb blossomed into ten reflective aluminium panels beneath the night sky, opening like the petals of a flower before being lit by tennis player Naomi Osaka. The lighting of the cauldron was not only the final chapter in a painstaking design journey (a two-year process involving no fewer than 85 prototypes, combined with multiple pandemic challenges). It also marked the apex of Nendo’s consistently…

First unveiled in the 1970s, Piaget’s Limelight Gala Precious Sunrise is still characterised by its asymmetrical profile and the sweeping lines that circle the bezel before continuing their journey along the bracelet. The bold colours that defined the women’s watches of previous decades here give way to bridal-friendly softer shades, with an intricate gradation of pastel blues plotted in brilliant-cut sapphires and diamonds. High jewellery elements continue in both the dial, sprinkled with snow-set diamonds, and the supple bracelet in white gold.…

Translating the magic of a fairytale garden into an horological fantasy, while also giving a nod to Christian Dior’s horticultural passions, is Dior’s dreamily indulgent Grand Soir Aquarelle timepiece. Under the glass blooms a white gold and pink gold flower, its petals studded with round-cut pink sapphires and tinted glass in a play on volume that adds layers of detail to the watch face. Pear-cut and round-cut diamonds drift across a fabric dial that looks to have been daubed with a paintbrush, with the paint blossoming over the face and infusing the white leather watch strap with colour.…

A classic with a twist is the motto behind Vacheron Constantin’s edgy sophistication, making its timepieces the natural choice for the chic watch-loving bride. This piece ​builds on the ​ Heures Créatives collection, originally released in 2015; drawing from the archives, pieces were inspired by everything from the curving forms of the Belle Époque era to the slyly humorous design codes of the 1970s. The Heures Créatives Heure Romantique model borrows from the romance of the art nouveau period, taking inspiration from a 1916 timepiece and translating it into a contemporary silhouette. Flowers, drawn in white gold and studded with diamonds, are sweet not saccharine, while glittering leaves branching from their petals make a brilliant foil for the delicate mother-of-pearl dial.…

Rumour has it Charles Darwin fitted wheels to the chair in his study so he could get to his specimens more quickly. What’s certain is that designers and brands aplenty have long looked to create the perfect solution for desk-based work. And sitting comfortably has never been thought about more. Working from home has seen us spend hours sitting on dining chairs, beds, sofas, floors, rugs and garden furniture in pursuit of a position that preserves our posture. Rather than acquire an office chair, some of us have compromised our bodies for our surroundings; but we needn’t have done. For some, the words ‘office chair’ conjure up images of black plastic, gaudy metal and scratchy fabric. But German brand Interstuhl is on a mission to change that. Uniting luxury with…

A Akris akris.com Alessandra Rich at Matches Fashion matchesfashion.com AMI amiparis.com Aram aram.co.uk Asceno asceno.com B Balenciaga balenciaga.com Baxter baxter.it Béton Brut betonbrut.co.uk Bibi van der Velden bibivandervelden.com Bocci bocci.com Bottega Veneta bottegaveneta.com Boucheron boucheron.com Buccellati buccellati.com C Carl Hansen & Søn carlhansen.com Cassina cassina.com Celine celine.com Chanel chanel.com Chaumet chaumet.com Christopher Kane christopherkane.com Christopher Thompson Royds christopherthompsonroyds.com D De Castelli decastelli.com De Padova depadova.com Dior dior.com Dolce & Gabbana dolcegabbana.com Dom Pérignon domperignon.com Dunhill dunhill.com E Emporio Armani armani.com F Falke falke.com Felix Schwake felixschwake.com Fendi fendi.com Flexform flexform.it Flos flos.com Frama framacph.com Fredericia fredericia.com Fritz Hansen fritzhansen.com G Gallery Fumi galleryfumi.com Gallotti & Radice gallottiradice.it Gayle Warwick gaylewarwick.com Gerbase gerbase.com Givenchy givenchy.com Gucci gucci.com H Hermès hermes.com I In-Grid Bride in-gridstudio.co Issey Miyake isseymiyake.com J Jaeger-LeCoultre jaeger-lecoultre.com Jil…

Japanese designer Tomoko Azumi is a director of TNA Design Studio, a London-based furniture, product, exhibition and retail interior design consultancy. She graduated with an MA in furniture design from Royal College of Art in 1995, co-founding design partnership AZUMI, and then opening her solo studio in 2005. Recent works include furniture for the UK Supreme Court, as well as pieces for Ercol, Röthlisberger and Zilio A&C. She has been teaching design since 2000 at Glasgow School of Art, Royal College of Art, Middlesex University, London Metropolitan University, Vitra Design Museum summer workshops, Iuav University of Venice, and Liechtenstein University. Maria Jeglinska-Adamczewska established her Office for Design & Research in 2012. The Polish designer graduated from ECAL’s industrial design course in 2007 and went on to work for Galerie Kreo in…

Here at Wallpaper* HQ, we love a good cocktail party (we can’t tell you how much we’ve missed them over the last 18 months). And while many things contribute to making a party one to remember, you just can’t beat a great canapé, those salty, spicy or sweet bites than can lead you to park yourself near the door to the kitchen when they’re particularly moreish. The French are credited with making canapés popular in the 18th century, the name coming from their word for ‘couch’ as some thought a piece of bread topped with food looked like someone sitting on a couch. The rest of the world soon picked up on the joys of finger foods and, over the years, a smörgåsbord of delectable canapé trends have come and…

When it comes to creating watches for women, Richard Mille doesn’t shy away from the sharp technicality and futuristic design codes that characterise its unisex pieces. The Swiss watch brand has included watches for women in its traditionally male output since its inception, but has ramped up the offering in the last decade, interweaving advanced technical functionality with a play on tough materials and intricate high jewellery techniques. The RM 037 Red Gold Snow Set watch is a case in point. A reinterpretation of the RM 037 model, it puts the skeletonised movement at its heart, with the juxtaposition of textures on the rotating discs an elegant foil for the sparkling contours of the case. Present are familiar design motifs, with the distinctive curves and bridges of the calibre here…

Formafantasma describes itself as ‘a research-based design studio investigating the ecological, historical, political and social forces shaping the discipline of design today’. This mission statement is as ambitious as it gets. But it’s apt for an outfit that, for over a decade, has constantly pushed the boundaries of design and evolved our understanding of the field. From its ‘Ore Streams’ project (2017-19), which considered the recycling of electronic waste, to the ongoing ‘Cambio’, which explores the ecological impact of the timber industry, Formafantasma’s work has inspired a new generation to see design not just as a styling tool, but also as a transformative force in an era of uncertainty. It is fitting that Design Academy Eindhoven would appoint the studio’s founders, Simone Farresin and Andrea Trimarchi, as department heads for…

Bring an offbeat elegance to the sharp silhouette of a suit with a brooch. Vintage and traditional designs, when intertwined with contemporary references, make for a very modern wedding. Playful placements can bring new life to a heritage piece; a bow tie, when drawn in platinum and tourmaline and pinned in place, brings a mischievous modernity to a Cartier clip dating from the 1940s. Other pieces make arresting adornments with colour contrasts; the cool blue of a 1930s Raymond Yard brooch, which fringes an aquamarine in opals and diamonds, is brought to life against a dark lapel, while lustrous Mikimoto akoya pearls suspended from their white gold branches are coolly current when juxtaposed against Dunhill polka dots. A hidden functionality in Boucheron’s ‘Serpent Boheme’ brooch adds a pleasing wearability: swing…

As far as timeless gifting is concerned, Poltrona Frau’s collection of objects by legends of Italian design hits the spot. The sculptural forms of Angelo Mangiarotti’s ‘Askos’ crystal pitcher and ‘Pura’ marble plate combine minimalism with a pure elegance, stretching materials to their extremes. Michele De Lucchi’s ‘Marianne’ vases, meanwhile, elegantly explore the potential of blown glass. Created using an open mould made of steel strips that give each piece a unique, distinctive ridged form, the vases combine white and transparent layers moulded together in a crucible.…

The work of Chinese-born, London-based artist Jie Wu elegantly marries East and West, the natural and the manmade. Having studied textile design at Chelsea College of Arts and the RCA, Wu turned her attention to recycled rosewood and translucent resin, which she calls ‘an inclusive material that can bring a new life to wood’. Combining the two, Wu created a collection of furniture and vessels on the theme of silence earlier this year, which included this evocatively hued centrepiece, inspired by Chinese bronzeware from the Warring States period. It would make a showstopper of an addition to your wedding table, or, considering its title ‘A Listener’, an apt gift to symbolise your dedication to your spouse-to-be.…

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When Sir David Adjaye drinks, there are no half measures. ‘One of my uncles is a huge whisky fan in Ghana,’ he tells me via Zoom. ‘West Africans brew all these high-octane things – they call it akpeteshie. Very DIY, but very loved. Whisky feels like something that’s really engaging with the body; I love that fire that goes down you. It makes you feel so alive.’ It seems, then, that far from being a surprise move, the RIBA Royal Gold Medal-winning architect’s newest project – designing the case and decanter for the oldest whisky ever to be freshly bottled – makes complete sense. In 1940, in Elgin, north-east Scotland, 26 years before Adjaye was born, father-and-son whisky team John and George Urquhart were considering the latest batch they had…

For stockists, see page 312 Our set was inspired by Himmelbett, a 1974 theoretical project by Austrian-American architect Friedrich St Florian, which imagined a steel and stone pavilion that would allow its inhabitants to float between heaven and earth Models: Gabriella Michelazzo at Milk Management, Romi Peled at Established Models, Seth Bedzo at Premier. Casting: Svea Casting. Set design: Samuel Pidgen at Bryant Artists. Hair: Tosh using Bumble & Bumble. Make-up: Victoria Martin using Glossier. Digi-tech: Joe Smart. Photography assistant: Gray Brame. Set design assistants: Clodagh Farrelly, Tom Hope. Fashion assistants: Kris Bergfeldt, Sammiey Hughes. Hair assistant: Ellie Bond. Make-up assistant: Lizzie Checkley…

Through searing, potent pieces such as The Dinner Party and her smoke sculpture series, artist Judy Chicago has reimagined and rewritten the role of women in the history of art, confronting patriarchal systems with a fearless zest. Her chosen dish, selected for its simple genius, is a Niçoise salad, with a recipe attributed to Jennifer James, who co-owns Albuquerque restaurant Frenchish with Nelle Bauer. Photographed by Chicago’s husband Donald Woodman, the salad is served with carnations and a specially created mini smoke sculpture titled Niçoise Smoke. ‘Until the pandemic, we regularly celebrated our wedding anniversary with the festive New Year’s Eve dinners that Jennifer cooked up at Frenchish. And in 2020 – our 35th – Jennifer and Nelle personally delivered our feast to us at home.’ When composing the salad,…

Discovered The Design Museum, London 13 September – 10 October 2021 Publication photography: Petr Krejčí, Tim Robinson, Winston Chuang, Jason Yates, Fraser Stephen, Nuno Faria AHEC American Hardwood Export Council (AHEC) has been at the forefront of global wood promotion for over 30 years, successfully building a distinctive and creative brand for US hardwoods. AHEC’s support for creative design projects demonstrates the performance potential of these sustainable materials and provides valuable inspiration. americanhardwood.org @ahec_europe, @ahec_anz, @ahec_sea Wallpaper* Wallpaper* is the global design authority, leading the way in architecture, design, art, entertaining, beauty & grooming, transport, technology, fashion, and watches & jewellery. Founded as a print magazine in 1996, it has evolved into a multi-channel media brand. With a strong track record of discovering next-generation talents and creative matchmaking, Wallpaper* is…