On one side, grey cliffs tower ominously; on the other, a 37m-high rock tower reaches heavenward. And then, in between, there’s me – tiny and insignificant. The rocks of Skye’s surreal Quiraing have existed for millions of years, pre-dating even the dinosaurs. And, for much of that time, the basalt that resulted from volcanic eruptions here has been slowly creeping towards the sea. Pinnacles and other rock formations have broken away from the flat-topped, grassy ridge, creating a complex landscape that now proves an irresistible draw for visitors.
I left my campsite early this morning and, having negotiated the hairpin bends on the narrow road west of Staffin, I was in time to watch the sun rise over the mountains of Torridon on the Scottish mainland. With midges nibbling at…
