Inhaltsverzeichnis für September 2022 in Wallpaper

Regaled with Ben Kelly’s tales from the heady heights and very late nights of the 1980s Manchester rave scene, it’s easy to feel transported right back to the heyday of his best-known creation, the city’s legendary Haçienda nightclub. ‘There was this very anarchic approach to everything,’ he says. ‘We all just wanted to break the rules.’ Transported only briefly, though, as Kelly, now 73, is talking animatedly over a cup of tea in his studio, which sits in the backyard of his coastguard’s cottage on the East Sussex coast. It is lined with shelves that creak with stacks of design and art books; through the window, a John Constable-worthy powder-blue sky hangs above rolling hills dotted with cows and sheep, grazing just beyond Kelly’s own vegetable patch. While Kelly still…

Rana Begum and fashion designer Roksanda Ilinčić’s first collaboration consisted of a web of coloured fishing nets spun across the Giles Gilbert Scott-designed Durbar Court, the stodgy heart of the UK government’s Foreign Office. Carving up the lofty inner sanctum, the luminescent nets shot across three storeys of columns and landed on the marble floor to form a prismatic set for Roksanda’s A/W20 collection. Begum, an artist fascinated with interplays between light, colour and space, seemingly met her creative kith and kin in Ilinčić, a designer revered for her colour-block, ballooning sculptural pieces. It’s been a long-standing admiration, ‘even before our collaboration,’ says Ilinčić. ‘Very cheekily, I used one of her Folded Grid series as inspiration for my pre-fall 2019 collection. You could see this wonderful aura of pinkness floating…

Our September Style issue sees our usual Newspaper section reinvented as ‘In Fashion’, an edit of 11 stars of the A/W22 collections, photographed by Matthieu Lavanchy. From a fuzzy wide-brimmed hat inspired by a Dutch Old Master painting to a fluffy tie-dyed shearling bag, from a sequinned dress recalling a kiwi fruit to a hooded sweater and allin-one combo (our newsstand cover star), each item embodies the game-changing exuberance of the fashion industry. Our limited-edition cover by Ben Kelly conveys a similar spirit: an acrylic-on-canvas artwork featuring the hazard stripes and International Orange that have been his signature since he designed the interiors of the legendary Haçienda nightclub in Manchester four decades ago. One of the most influential shapers of 1980s British music culture, Kelly has stayed on the cutting…

EDWARD CUMING Madrid-based Australian designer Edward Cuming is intent on stripping away the formality of classic menswear to create something that feels softer, less industrial. His desire is to design wardrobe building blocks; ‘clean, clear and edited’. A longline duster coat and sheer diaphanous vests and shorts that skim the body are not just emotive but useful, while traditional shirts and suits are rethought in deadstock viscose lining, washed so the colours bleed into each other. His ethos intuitively reflects a shift towards a freedom and fluidity that is flourishing not just in menswear but throughout global culture. edwardcuming.com GEORGES WENDELL At 23, Parisian designer Pierre Kaczmarek has already taken one self-started fashion label, Afterhomework, to global acclaim and closed it at its peak when it didn’t suit his creative…

01. ‘META-HORIZONS: THE FUTURE NOW’ The debut exhibition at the new Design Museum at the Zaha Hadid Architects-designed Dongdaemun Design Plaza, ‘Meta-Horizons’ explores ZHA’s work across digital technology, artificial intelligence and sustainable strategies. Created in collaboration with artist Refik Anadol, the show is a captivating, multidisciplinary collision of virtual and physical worlds. Until 18 September, 281 Eulji-ro, Jung-gu, ddp.or.kr 02. OUL AT THE FOUR SEASONS SEOUL The newly opened Oul bar offers a contemporary take on the long history of Korean liquor crafting and fermentation, from a reimagined Gyeongseong-era sujeonggwa cinnamon punch to a kimchi highball with a twist of green chilli soju. With its dynamic obangsaek colour palette and neon signage, Oul is a new hotspot for experimentally-minded night owls. 97 Saemunan-ro, Jongno-gu, fourseasons.com 03. FRIEZE SEOUL The inaugural…

For stockists, see page 161 Model: Harry Browse at Elite London Casting: Svea Casting Grooming: Bari Khalique using Boy de Chanel and No.1 de Chanel Essence Lotion and Body Serum-in-Mist Hair: Maarit Niemela at Bryant Artists Photography assistants: Alex Gale, Sinclair Jaspard Mandy Fashion assistant: Kris Bergfeldt Production assistant: Jackson Compton…

For stockists throughout, see page 161 HEAD ON Inspired by the attire seen in Pieter Bruegel the Elder’s 1559 painting Netherlandish Proverbs, Raf Simons’ collection included a series of hats created with master milliner Stephen Jones – from fuzzy helmets to a cap that fell away into a cloak.…

To subscribe, visit wallpaper.com/sub22 A Wallpaper* subscription ensures: * Collectable, artist-designed covers * 12 issues a year for £100/$140/€157 * Delivery every month Our limited-edition covers, available only to subscribers, are created by a leading artist, designer or architect each month. Past contributors range from Jony Ive to Jenny Holzer, Yayoi Kusama to Tom Sachs, Isaac Julien to Karl Lagerfeld. See just a few of our favourites here, and subscribe for many more unique artworks to come. Offer closes CREDITS 31 December 2022. For full terms and conditions, visit magazinesdirect.com/terms…

In the eight years since Kvadrat and Raf Simons joined forces to develop an upholstery range (see W*180), their luscious fabrics have gained a near-mythical status. New launches are always greeted with fervour at design fairs, and tote bags made from the fabrics and offered to a select few on these occasions have become collectibles among those in-the-know. Thus the arrival of a Kvadrat/Raf Simons accessories collection this August is destined to be welcomed with open arms: so confident is the Danish textile brand in this collection’s success that they are breaking from tradition to open a dedicated accessories store in Copenhagen. The collection comprises cushions, throws, a tote bag and a shopping bag, as well as a small tray, an accessory box, a magazine holder, a sleeve, a cap,…

Until Pieter Mulier was named creative director of Alaïa in February 2021, he was largely known only by fashion insiders; he was a right-hand man, the confidante and creative partner of fellow Belgian Raf Simons, whom he first worked for as an intern at the latter’s eponymous label in the early 2000s. Their partnership would continue during Simons’ tenures at Jil Sander, Dior, and finally Calvin Klein, where, in 2016, Mulier was made global creative director to Simons’ chief creative officer (there, after the presentation of each collection, they would take their bow as a pair). Two years later, they exited the American behemoth together. Mulier cited ‘fashion burnout’. ‘At some point, I started asking myself: who buys all this?’ he said at a talk last year in Antwerp. In…

A Aaron Esh @aaronesh Accoutrement accoutrement.co.uk Alaïa maison-alaia.com Alexander McQueen alexandermcqueen.com Ami amiparis.com B Balenciaga balenciaga.com Bottega Veneta bottegaveneta.com Boucheron boucheron.com C Cartier cartier.com Celine celine.com Chanel chanel.com Chloé chloe.com Church’s church-footwear.com Comme des Garçons Homme Plus at Dover Street Market doverstreetmarket.com D Dior dior.com Dolce & Gabbana Casa casa.dolcegabbana.com Dries Van Noten driesvannoten.com Dunhill dunhill.com E Edward Cuming edwardcuming.com Emporio Armani armani.com F Fendi fendi.com Francesca Elliott Vintage Jewellery francescaelliott.com G Georges Wendell georgeswendell.com Gucci gucci.com H Hereu hereustudio.com Hermès hermes.com J Jimmy Choo jimmychoo.com L Loewe loewe.com Louis Vuitton louisvuitton.com Lu’u Dan luu-dan.com M Marie Lueder luederluederlueder.com MHL by Margaret Howell margarethowell.co.uk P Paul Smith paulsmith.com Prada prada.com R Raf Simons rafsimons.com Rick Owens rickowens.eu S Saint Laurent by Anthony Vaccarello ysl.com Salvatore Ferragamo ferragamo.com Sportmax sportmax.com Sunspel…

For full credits, see page 161 Bold, colourful and distinctively Italian – the same words often used to describe Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana’s fashion can equally be applied to pasta alla Norma, a staple at their Martini Bistrot in Milan and a recurring favourite at the designers’ festive lunches. ‘We like the simplest recipes of the Sicilian tradition, those made with fresh local products: tomato, aubergine, salted ricotta, and lots of love,’ they say. Naturally, the dish is best served on tableware from the newly launched Dolce & Gabbana Casa label – specifically from the ‘Carretto’ range, whose vibrant hues and rambunctious patterns perfectly evoke Mediterranean summers. casa.dolcegabbana.com. For Dolce & Gabbana’s recipe, see Wallpaper.com…