Inhaltsverzeichnis für September 2018 in Getaway

Our little piece of heaven on Earth Following on from your ‘Four Ways to Explore the Namib Desert’ article (June 2018), I’d like to share my story. My husband and I decided to do something different for our honeymoon – all our friends went to islands, but we decided to give Namibia a chance. All we can say is, what an amazing, amazing destination! Out of all the places we visited, Gondwana’s Namib Dune Star Camp was the highlight. It was a trip we will both remember until the day we die. It was a holiday of total serenity and peace; a place where we could empty our heads of the hustle and bustle of city life and enjoy togetherness under the African sky. To be able to sleep under…

1 The males of some antelope, like greater kudu, will rub their horns in mud to make them look bigger and more intimidating. This is called mud-packing. 2 Prey animals approach predators to send a clear message that the predator has been seen. Most predators rely on the element of surprise to hunt effectively, so they don’t waste their time going after prey that has seen them. 3 It’s not true that female lions do all the hunting – males are equally adept. But they are larger and less agile, and their big manes make them more conspicuous. 4 Elephants tend to use one tusk more than the other, like being left- or right-handed. They also tend to use their trunks to grab and twist foliage in one direction only…

‘We brought art into the space so that people can be curious and start questioning what they see on the walls, while enjoying great food and music,’ says Kenneth Nzama, aka DJ Kenzhero, co-founder of The Artivist, Braamfontein’s newest hotspot. The Artivist combines a restaurant, bar, live-music venue and gallery in one beautifully designed, open space. Floor-to-ceiling windows look out onto the street, a marble bar counter takes centre stage, and there’s a mezzanine level to give patrons a view. Kenzhero and his business partner, fellow DJ Bradley Williams, felt that the area needed something to bridge the gap between student and mature crowds. ‘You have The Orbit jazz club, which is nice and upmarket, and then there’s Kitcheners, which draws a much younger crowd. There wasn’t much in between.’…

26 INSPECTED 12 SELECTED HOW TripAdvisor lists accommodation rated by guests, but as much as we love peer reviews, they don’t offer a comparative voice – so how do we know No. 1 is really the best? Pippa de Bruyn, who has reviewed accommodation for 18 years for the likes of Frommer’s and The Telegraph , scours TripAdvisor and other online sites when researching a destination. For St Lucia, she created a longlist of 26 to inspect. The following made the cut. WHAT ARE YOU LOOKING FOR? •  The hotel with the best location (page 40) •  Somewhere in the centre of town (page 40) •  Self-catering in a log cabin (page 41) •  The full luxury safari experience (page 41)…

Day 1 & 2: East London to Bulungula DISTANCE 278km ALLOW 5 hours From East London, take the N2, past Idutywa and Butterworth. There are roadworks near Mthatha. Take the Coffee Bay turnoff before Mthatha. After 50km, turn right at the sign for Zithulele Mission Hospital. After 16,5 km, turn right at the sign for Bulungula. Follow the dirt road for 9km (ignore the left turn after 5km). After the face-brick school on your left, you will reach a T-junction – turn left, drive for 4km (ignore the right turn after 1km) until you reach the shop with the big wall. Turn left at this junction. After 1km you will see the signs to Bulungula Lodge (1). 4x4 advised when wet. Day 3 & 4: Bulungula to Coffee Bay DISTANCE…

A newly hatched green turtle makes a dash to the ocean on Praia Grande beach On a boat trip from Bom Bom Resort to Banana Beach, we passed this group of fishermen from Burras village. HOW HE GOT THE SHOTS Just before jumping into the editorial hot seat at Getaway, photojournalist Justin Fox was invited by Classic Portfolio to experience a number of eco lodges on São Tomé and Príncipe. South African entreprenuer Mark Shuttleworth has invested in the lodges to uplift these former Portuguese plantation islands. It’s not a budget holiday, so visiting is likely to be a once-in-a-lifetime experience. TRAVEL PLANNER It requires a flight from Joburg to Luanda (about R6 000 pp return) with TAAG Angola, then a connection to São Tomé on a Fri, Sun or…

1 SPOT BIRDS FROM A BOAT GARDEN ROUTE NATIONAL PARK WESTERN CAPE  The Silver Serpent snakes up the Touw River from Ebb & Flow Rest Camp a few times a day, providing an effortless way to admire the local birdlife. A cigar-shaped slip of a craft with a canvas roof, the Serpent was built by Botswana’s Aliboats in Maun – which makes safari boats for the Okavango, Chobe and Zambezi. Just eight guests at a time putter off on an eight-kilometre, 90-minute experience with skipper Mike Raubenheimer. No fitness required, just the ability to embark and disembark. ‘Every trip is different,’ says Mike. The forest upriver is a popular highlight, but so is encountering ‘thousands’ of cattle egrets and cormorants coming home to roost on reeds surrounding Island Lake at…

GETTING THERE I flew Emirates to Colombo for R7 200 (included a Discovery Vitality discount). emirates.com NEED TO KNOW South Africans need a visa (R440). Apply online. eta.gov.lk/slvisa July to October is monsoon season – generally avoided, but I went in September and it was wonderful. Ask your hosts to arrange meals for you – often the most affordable and best meals of my trip. Booking train tickets is confusing, so enlist the help of your host or a local to buy them at the station. I preferred second-class because it was cheap (R50 pp) and I could open the windows and move around freely. Use tuk-tuks for short distances in town – they’re easy and affordable; buses are cheaper but less comfortable. Pricier private taxis (sedans) can be organised…

GETTING THERE From Durban take the N3 past Pietermaritzburg and Mooi River. Take the third exit to Estcourt and carry on through Loskop for 28km. Turn left at the Central Drakensberg sign. From Joburg take the N3, exiting right to Bergville/ Winterton and follow the R74. STAY HERE The Goodland Cottages is such a find! I loved the decor of Milk Cottage – pops of yellow and antiques mixed with designer touches, such as Scandi-style side tables. There’s Wi-Fi, TV and extras – honey sticks, microwave popcorn, nuts plus a record player with LPs. From R575 pp. 078-803-0087, thegoodlandcottages.co.za Champagne Castle Hotel is set at the end of a twisting mountain drive and close to Monks Cowl Nature Reserve. From R1 090 pp sharing, full board. 036-468-1063, champagnecastle.co.za Dragon Peaks…

David Robbins Port Elizabeth, page 82 David always wanted to live in Port Elizabeth, but never has – at least not yet. So he welcomed the opportunity to write about the city and its art for Getaway. PE Central is a thrilling place, he says, packed with cultural stuff and a boisterous nightlife. He’s travelled widely in Africa but he always comes back home. ‘I love the energy here, and PE has plenty of that.’ Ondela Mlandu Wild Coast, page 50 Our multimedia journalist spent seven days among thick green forests and rolling hills, travelling along the old Transkei coast. She leapt off sea cliffs, learnt how to dodge cows and potholes and drive at a comfortable 40 km/h, and had an eye-opening experience of how supporting local communities through…

Travelling as a group of friends, we decided to check out Mpumalanga and discover its gems. We first explored Waterval Boven, once a stop on the railway line from Pretoria to Maputo. The small town is in the heart of Mpumalanga, which made it easy for us to reach all the hotspots. We came across the old railway tunnel and ran through it and up a cliff to take in nature’s beauty. Then we ventured up to God’s Window, where the cliffs plunge down 700 metres – the perfect spot to see the world through God’s eyes. The scenery was otherworldly and, as it was a clear day, we had a spectacular view of Kruger National Park. Our next stop was Pinnacle Rock. We were 30 metres up on the…

When you read this, over 1,5 million wildebeest will be gathering up the courage to cross the crocodile-infested Mara River on the border of Kenya and Tanzania. The ensuing chaos is one of the natural world’s most iconic spectacles. But let’s not forget about all the other species involved – more than 250 000 zebra and a host of other antelope also take part in this ongoing cycle, which is a clockwise search for tasty grasses and safe havens. A lesser-known fact is that the wildebeest and zebra cross the river multiple times in search of the best grazing. The usual suspects – lion, leopard, cheetah and hyena – can also be found in the area, all playing a part in the world’s biggest bonanza of wildlife activity.…

Postberg Nature Reserve near Langebaan on the West Coast opens to the public only in August and September, and is one of the best places to photograph the explosion of spring flowers. You can self-drive through the park (R77 pp entry) or get up close on the 13,9-kilometre Steenbok Day Trail (only 20 people per day). R82 pp, booking 022-707-9902. Fresh from Kinshasa and Nairobi, Wolfgang Tillmans’ touring exhibition, Fragile , is on at the Johannesburg Art Gallery until 30 September (in association with IFA and the Goethe-Institut). Tillmans was the first photographer to win the art world’s biggest award, the Turner Prize. His work, spanning 1986 to 2017, includes club culture, abstracts, portraits and the ‘beauty of the everyday’. friendsofjag.org…

As a child, I would always shut my eyes tightly as we drove on the winding N2 to my grandmother’s homestead in Nqamakwe, in the Amathole District of the Eastern Cape. According to my mother, the first time I set eyes on the steep road approaching Butterworth, I began to cry in fear that we would never make it back home. That was 20 years ago. Now I found myself behind the wheel on the same road, heading to the Wild Coast at sunrise, to find out more about Fair Trade South Africa’s links with tourism businesses in the area. In awe that I had just driven through Qunu, the rural village where Mandela grew up, I passed the villages of KwaJali, Mancam and Ngcwanguba, while using the ocean as…

1 Bulungula Lodge. There are 10 traditional Xhosa rondavels here – five are dorms, the other five private rooms, plus tents on platforms in the coastal forest. Guests share bathroom facilities. Meals cost from R30 for breakfast to R80 for dinner, but guests can self-cater. Rooms from R480 for two, tents from R450 for two. 047-577-8900 2 Pancake sunrise. Time your trip to be at Bulungula Lodge on a Wednesday morning to enjoy pancakes with coffee or tea on a dune as you watch the sun rise. R60 (Bigger groups can request this treat on other days.) Booking is essential. 047-577-8900 3 Coffee Shack Backpackers. A great spot for socialising, it includes Babalaza Bar & Restaurant (meals from R25–R75, with a free dinner on Sunday nights). Surf lessons are R60…

KLEIN-KAROO I have fond memories of a trip that I did with my father via the Seweweekspoort Pass, a rugged and scenic route through the Swartberg to the disused Calitzdorp railway station. The pass is beautiful – as much of Thomas Bain’s work tends to be – and being someone who appreciates history and has an affinity for the old-fashioned, I found the station, which now offers accommodation, an agreeable place to spend the night (081-473-3232). CEDERBERG I’ve driven my old Toyota Hilux from Cederberg Oasis to Rocklands and also done this trip many times on my motorbike. I recommend spending a night at Sanddrif (027-482-2825), so that you can see the Wolfberg Cracks and Arch, two of the most beautiful rock formations in the Cederberg. The route to Wuppertal…

NEED TO KNOW Central used to have a dodgy safety reputation, but along with the upgrading of the area come assurances of improving safety. Daytime walking is best. STAY HERE Holmeleigh is artist Estelle Marais’ home, part of which is converted into a self-contained flat with kitchenette. Estelle is a delightful raconteur who could be persuaded to give you a unique art tour around Central. R350 pp sharing. 041-582-1737 The Grand Hotel is one of PE’s original hostelries, built in 1867 and recently spruced up. It has a lovely terrace with views and an old-school bar. Stay in a period-piece double room from R396 pp. 041-582-4753 Hallack Manor is stylish and modern. Lots of spaces to relax – bar, deck, two lounges, braai area and a pool. From R425 pp…

GETTING THERE AirLink flies from Joburg to Maun (from R6 500 return, flyairlink.com). Mack Air transfers visitors to Khwai Private Reserve (about R5 000 return, mackair.co.bw). Driving from Maun to Pangolin Khwai Camp takes three hours – ask locals which roads might be closed due to flooding. NEED TO KNOW Pangolin Photo Safaris can supply photographic gear: Sigma 100-400mm lenses, Canon 80Ds cameras and memory cards. If you have your own, bring a wide-angle lens for landscapes (16-35mm) and a telephoto for wildlife. STAY HERE Pangolin Khwai Camp Well-known for houseboat-based photo safaris in Chobe, Pangolin has recently refurbished this permanent camp with seven Meru-style tents. The camp is set up for photographers, with an editing table overlooking the view and multiple plug-points for easy laptop connection and battery charging.…

Roam Private Game Reserve NEAR BEAUFORT WEST, WESTERN CAPE The 5 000 hectares of land that Roam, a new reserve about 70 kilometres south of Beaufort West, encompasses was once a typical Karoo sheep farm, converted to a game-hunting facility for 13 years. Three years ago, it was bought by a South African family to be used for conservation and eco-tourism. My family and I arrived at 8.30pm on an icy winter’s evening. Donavin Koen, trainee field manager, transferred us to Safari Lodge, 30 minutes’ drive deeper into the reserve, where a warm welcome awaited. The dining room was toasty, thanks to a large fireplace with dancing flames, and our dinner was ready to be served. Tucking into chef Francisco Chaula’s chicken breasts stuffed with spinach and ricotta made for…

Tick off flower specials Calitzdorp may be most famous for its port wines, but it also hosts an annual celebration of rare and beautiful succulents from the Klein Karoo, the rest of South Africa and the world. The Vetplantfees includes veld walks, talks and workshops, exhibitions, a rare-plant auction and ‘massive’ plant market. Fee for selected activities. 22–24 September. vetplant.co.za Over in Gansbaai, the Funky Fynbos Festival is all about getting you out into nature and sniffing the fine fynbos breezes (on MTB and trail runs, 4x4 routes, fishing etc), plus chilling at the harbour market and Lomond wine estate. Fee for selected activities. 22–23 September. gansbaaiinfo.com The Waterblommetjie Festival is on 1 September in Paarl – from potjies and bredies to tapas, pizza and ice cream, at four wine…

Take it yourself Capture the sparkling night sky by using your camera’s high-sensitivity capabilities. Go on a moonless night, and as far as you can get from urban-light pollution. EQUIPMENT A wide-angle lens, sturdy tripod, shutter-release cable, flashgun and powerful torch. SETTINGS Start at ISO 800 and work your way up. You want to get as much light into your camera as possible with a wide aperture. For shutter speed, the 500 rule determines the longest time your shutter can be open without getting star trails (see Know your stuff on the next page). Finally, vary your ISO to balance the exposure for clear stars. PRACTICAL Place a strong, interesting element in the foreground (like the tree), so that it’s not just stars and a bit of foreground. Normal composition…

FINALIST The Colony My wife and I are walking the west coast of Southern Africa, from Cape Agulhas to the Angolan border. We came across this colony of seals near Kleinzee in the Northern Cape. Thousands of them cover a four-kilometre stretch where death and life are parallel: jackals prowl while gulls circle above. Waiting for their moms to return with food, newborns lie next to the carcasses of seals. Amid the chaos, I managed to take this image of adults and pups making their way to the water. – By Erlo Brown, Hermanus Canon 5D Mk III, Canon EF 70-300mm f/4-5.6, ISO 320, f/5.6, 1/2 500 sec FINALIST A Drink at Dawn I captured this scene at about six in the morning at the Sitzas waterhole near Mata-Mata Camp in…

1 BONBRAAI R1 750, bonbraai.co.za One of the best features of this 5kg portable braai is that it can be used on any surface – from a balcony to the tailgate of your bakkie. The fire is lit in a shallow, 45cm-diameter stainless-steel dish that’s raised a few centimetres off the ground, and there’s no mess from the charcoal or ash. You can even pick the BonBraai up by the side handles while the fire is going. The grid is not adjustable and sits fairly low, so only a small amount of briquettes is needed. The unit is sturdy, simple to set up and comes with a handy carry bag. A range of accessories such as a skottel pan and collapsible table are also available. 2 FIRESIDE STAINLESS…

Mornings can be a stressful time in the bush. Dawn’s soft, delicate light is also the source of photographers’ angst: it’s a race to find a suitably photogenic subject before that same light turns harsh. Our guide, Relax Relemogeng, led us on the search. The 4x4 plunged into bonnet-deep streams and emerged, dripping, on the far banks. We peered into trees, scoured the skyline and clutched our jackets closer as the cold air seeped through the fabric. There! Perched on a branch, a lilac-breasted roller huddled against the morning chill. Relax slowed the vehicle and we hoisted our telephoto lenses. I was in Botswana, on my first-ever photo safari. I had avoided these in the past – there’s something about hoardes of photographers all firing away at the same subject…

‘HE’S THE MASTER YODA OF TEA,’ said Nick. I never found out his surname but Nick and his girlfriend, Anna, were my treehouse neighbours at an Edenic spot called Dikwella (a postcard-perfect seaside town in the south of Sri Lanka.) The Belgian couple were at the end of their two-week trip whereas I was at the beginning, so I greedily harvested advice. Formerly known as Ceylon, Sri Lanka is famous for its tea, just as Ethiopia is renowned for its coffee and France for its Champagne. The Yoda they were talking about is one Mr Siva Rajha from the Uva Halpewatte Tea Factory in Ella, a small tumble-down town perched in the cooler hill country. Nick advised I go early to see the tea in production because it would otherwise…

A SLIGHT EDGE R1 999, capeunionmart.co.za Only 50 of the Kaliber Damascus Collector’s Edition have been made. This 18cm knife, weighing 113g, is unique compared to others in the range as it’s constructed with 72 layers of Japanese steel. The handle is Micarta laminate and the straight-back fixed blade has a Damascus finish (patterns reminiscent of flowing water). The traditional Damascus ‘steel of the ancients’ was first produced over 2 000 years ago. HOME SLICE R139, campandclimb.co.za Anglo Arms is known for high-quality yet budget-friendly knives, crossbows and archery bows. Its latest item in the Camp and Climb stable is this lock knife with a two-tone handle. When open, the knife measures 17cm, when closed 9,6cm, ensuring it’s small enough to stow easily but big…