Table of contents for July 2022 in Wilderness

When we asked skilled outdoors people for their advice on getting outdoors in winter (see, p46) we weren’t sure what they’d say. But that most suggested avalanche awareness and upskilling shouldn’t be surprising. Winter is, after all, a more challenging time to be outside, especially in those areas where there’s snow. Teacher Joe Nawalaniec’s comment on why he took his students into the hills during winter struck a chord with me. He says: “I think doing something outside their sphere of experience – something they would never normally do – gets them hooked. Winter tramping and climbing is the ultimate in adventure…. And for many, it’s a once-in-a-lifetime adventure.” When I think back over all the trips I have done, it is the ones in winter that seem to stick…

Walk1200km participants can win these valuable prizes supplied by our partners.Make sure you’re registered www.wildernessmag.co.nz/walk1200km then answer the following questions. LOWE ALPINE AIRZONE TREK 45:55 $449.95 Make multi-day hiking trips and tough hut-to-hut treks a breeze with this cool, ventilated pack. To win, tell us which hut you’d most like to visit with the pack. BRIDGEDALE MIDWEIGHT MERINO PERFORMANCE FIT $42.99 We’ve got two pairs of merino socks to give away. To win, tell us how far you’ve walked to date. $100 VOUCHER FROM FURTHER FASTER Our South Island retail partner is offering a $100 gift voucher. To win, tell us in which city Further Faster is based. EMAIL ENTRIES WITH THE NAME OF THE PRIZE IN THE SUBJECT LINE TO WALK1200KM@LIFESTYLEPUBLISHING.CO.NZ.…

Walking in the footsteps of her ancestors and protecting a lake with the world’s clearest freshwater, made last summer rather special for Kylie Batt (Ngāti Apa ki te Rā Tō). It certainly made up for leaving her job as a rafting and caving guide with Charleston’s Underwater Adventures, where she’d worked for 11 years before COVID knocked tourism for six. Instead, Kylie spent the summer at Blue Lake Hut in the upper Sabine Valley, employed as the first-ever dual hut warden/ iwi guardian for Rotomairewhenua (Blue Lake). The hut and its adjacent clear blue lake have long been a popular side trip for trampers walking the Travers-Sabine Circuit. However, since becoming part of Te Araroa Trail the area has been overwhelmed. People camping and cooking beside, and swimming and washing…

There was no argument, no debate; there was hardly any discussion. We both agreed that of all the spectacular places we had rolled out our sleeping bags, this was the most dramatic. Turners Bivouac, perched on a small snow-grass terrace at around 1600m in the Darran Mountains, is a massive rock overhang with a front wall of stones stacked by people over the years. Above the dry-stone wall is a ‘window’ that provides a dramatic view of the eastern face of Mt Tūtoko. Lying in your sleeping bag, you can watch the last rays of sunlight fade from orange to grey in the evening and see the first rays light the snow at dawn. At 3am, it frames a sky full of stars and moonlight glinting on the snow. Sit…

The track begins at the Andrews Shelter on Mount White Road. Park opposite the shelter where there is plenty of space, and walk north along the road for two minutes to a sign indicating the Andrews Valley Track. In the first hour, the track climbs around 400m through beech forest, at first steeply through some less-than-picturesque sections but these soon give way to a wide benched track with a gentle gradient. The track dips in and out of several side streams. After 2–3hr easy walking, the track rejoins Andrews Stream and the valley opens out to Hallelujah Flat. The terrain allows for swift travel and you soon reach the inauspicious Casey Saddle (777m), which is so gradual, wide and easy it is almost unnoticeable. Boardwalk protects the area over the…

The Southern Walkway connects some of Wellington’s best-loved parks and suburbs between Oriental Bay to the north and Island Bay to the south. It forms the end (or beginning) of Te Araroa’s North Island section and can be walked in either direction. There are numerous connecting suburban streets and myriad sidetracks along the way. The walkway is described here from north to south. The track is marked by yellow-capped posts with directional arrows. Some parts are exposed to Wellington’s notorious winds. It begins near the intersection of Oriental Parade and Carlton Gore Road and initially zigzags onto the slopes of Mt Victoria / Matairangi, with views across Oriental Bay and the city. After crossing Palliser Road, the walkway continues up the hill in the shade of exotic and native trees…

New Zealand’s backcountry can be daunting and dangerous in winter. But it’s also at its most alluring – trees and mountains wearing a thick coat of snow, the low-angled sun creating rich textures and shadows across the landscape, smoke rising from the chimneys of cosy, riverside huts. The most benign foothills can look positively Himalayan after a southerly storm. And when the cold front passes it often heralds a big, fat anticyclone, promising a string of sunny days enticing you to the hills. Is there anything more beautiful? We ask five experts about their favourite winter trips, how to get the most out of your own tramping, climbing or backcountry skiing, and get some tips for beginners looking to create a lifetime of memories. The Adventurer “THE BEST THING IS…

That you’re reading this indicates you’re an intelligent, discerning individual who does not need to be told: always drink in moderation, on and off the trail. • Beer is not a suitable replacement for adequate hydration and should only be consumed in addition to a sufficient intake of water. Alcohol is a diuretic and, as such, can dehydrate you. • When it comes to trail beers, the lower the ABV the better. • Save your drinking until the end of the tramp so it does not impact on your ability to navigate and walk safely.…

ZEROFIT HEATRUB ULTIMATE BASELAYER $144 / 208g (unisex) MIDLAYER WARMTH FOR BASE LAYER COMFORT AND WEIGHT FEATURES: The Ultimate is a light and warm (winter weight) base layer with a mock neck and close-fitting cut. While most performance base layers use polyester or merino blends, the Ultimate is mostly woven from acrylic and nylon, with seven per cent merino and some polyester and polyurethane. The outer fabric has a smooth weave, while the inner face is soft and fleecy. ZeroFit says this fleece, which it calls ‘Heatrub Technology’, brushes against the skin ‘to generate heat instantly’, as well as trapping air next to the skin. 4/5 FIT: This is a small fitting top. While I normally wear a size small, I was a medium in the Ultimate and could upsize…

History, they say, is written by the victors. Part of the legacy of a patriarchal-dominated society is the undervaluing of the roles women have played in New Zealand’s history. Maps in particular feature few women’s names. However, a number of alpine features in Aotearoa commemorate significant women. Alpine historian Graham Langton researched dozens of names for an article he wrote for the New Zealand Alpine Journal (2018) and says the greatest concentration of women’s names in our mountains appears in the Aoraki / Mt Cook area. These include, for example, three of Aoraki’s most significant glaciers. While two (Caroline and Linda) were named after a daughter and a sister of male mountaineers, the third commemorates Sheila Macdonald, a significant mountaineer and the first woman to climb Kilimanjaro. Surnames, of course,…

Nelson’s iconic Boulder Bank is a 13km-long finger of shattered granite that creates a safe harbour and shelters Nelson Port. It’s 55m wide at high tide, varying from 6–25m in height and formed by the movement of igneous rocks being eroded from Mackay’s Bluff by sea currents moving southwards. My great-great-grandfather first sighted this natural causeway in 1853 from the nearby summit of Maungatapu. I imagine not too much has changed since then. The trip begins from Nelson’s oxidation pond and requires sturdy footwear because, at first, the boulders underfoot are quite large. Hiking poles are invaluable. A sunhat, food and drink are mandatory. As you set off westward, you’ll see this rocky finger snake ahead for 9km into the hazy distance. Inland are views across the mudflats of Nelson…

The trail begins from Aongatete Lodge with a gradual descent over 900m to a track junction. Both branches of the trail lead to the Aongatete River. Take the northerly (right-hand) track and descend 60m to the river. Care should be taken here as the river may become impassable after rain. The track climbs steeply out of the river and then ascends more gradually on a bulldozed track built for the construction of the Kaimai Railway Tunnel in the 1960s. The tunnel is directly beneath your feet. Turn right at the junction with the North–South Track. After 800m, pass the trail to Upland Road then descend gently to Poupou Stream. The track now narrows and becomes rougher. After crossing a sidestream there’s a climb over and around a spur to gain…

“DO YOU THINK WE’LL SEE ANY BLUE …” BEGAN PAUL’S QUESTION. I thought Paul was asking about blue sky. I’d already questioned the shuttle driver about the forecast and got the monosyllabic reply: “Rain”. In fact, Paul was asking whether we’d see blue duck/whio. To this, the reply was: “Yip.” Within an hour, we did see whio but not before we’d been wowed by towering podocarps and an impressive ignimbrite canyon. When Taupō erupted 2000 years ago, its ash spread over a huge area, flattening forests. The Whirinaki ash was up to 50cm thick, providing fertile ground for the growth of a new forest. Magnificent rimu, tōtara, kahikatea, mataī and miro flourished. The existing forest park is a remnant of these forests. These great podocarps grow in a rare density…

In no particular order (they’re all very tasty), here are 10 beers from Aotearoa breweries to be enjoyed after a day on the trails: 1. Garage Project Tiny But Mighty – 0.5% ABV 2. Canyon Brewing Tussock Basher – 2.5% ABV 3. McLeod’s Northern Light Lager – 2.3% ABV 4. Rhyme x Reason Joy Rider Pale Ale – 5.2% ABV 5. Altitude Brewing Sled Dog Session Hazy IPA – 4.5% ABV 6. Deep Creek Brewing Undercurrent Pilsner – 5% ABV 7. Eddyline Brewery Trail Carver Pale Ale – 5% ABV 8. B. effect Brewing Hero Dirt Session APA – 4.6% ABV 9. Choice Bros Rebel Rebel Session Pale Ale – 2.2% ABV 10. Croucher Brewing Low Rider Session IPA – 2.5% ABV…

Get your photo published here to receive a meal from Real Meals worth $17. Learn more about Real Meals at www.realmeals.co.nz. Last Weekend submission criteria can be found at wildernessmag.co.nz.…

I’M DOING IT TO GET FIT AGAIN What started as a challenge for Alison Silcock has become part of her daily life. Alison Silcock is happy to have walked more than 1200km in less than 12 months. She compares it to her euphoria after finishing her first Great Walk, the Heaphy Track, in February 2021. This was at the start of a health kick that has seen her lose 40kg so far. “I remember feeling quite overwhelmed, extremely proud and on the verge of tears,” Alison says of passing the 1200km mark in May. The Cromwell office manager used Walk1200km as a way to get back into walking after severely injuring her knee in a fall on her second Great Walk, the Routeburn Track, in March 2021. Feeling robbed by…

LOOK OUT FOR PHOTOS WHERE THE PERSON IS IN THE WILDERNESS IN A LOCATION THAT ISN’T A GREAT WALK OR THE TONGARIRO ALPINE CROSSING. Their eyes met over the line of wet socks hanging in the hut. What were his intentions, she wondered, as he wrote his next destination in the hut book. When she whipped out a bag of marshmallows to toast over the fire, he knew she’d kindled the flame. It is a truth universally acknowledged, gentle reader, that any tramper in possession of a pack and boots is also desirous of a partner in crime with whom to explore the bush. Dating for trampers in the pre-internet age seems simple in retrospect. Join a club, eye up the offerings and pick one from the herd. But now,…

Brewster Hut is a popular destination near Wānaka, but on this sunny winter’s day we had it to ourselves. The Haast River stole the warmth from our feet as we tiptoed through its icy shallows. Fresh snowfall, knee-deep in places, obscured the track and coated the alpine shrubs. Tussock peaked through the drifts. The orange poles dotting the ridge ahead provided motivation to keep going. After rounding the final climb to reach the hut, we dropped our packs on the ice-free deck for a rest and to marvel at the view. This bright red hut sits high above the valley but far below the surrounding peaks. While the hut book shows daily entries for the summer months, visitors are sporadic during winter. A lack of heating in the hut doesn’t…

This circuit combines easy gravel roads and a rough tramping track, pretty bush, scenic views of the reservoir, even a hut. The track begins at the car park adjacent to the campsite at Upper Mangatāwhiri Dam. The dam, Auckland’s second largest, was completed in 1965. It’s one of a series of rolled earth water-supply dams completed in the Hunua Ranges – the others are Cosseys, Wairoa and Mangatangi dams.  Follow Waterline Road (a gravel road, closed to general traffic) northwards past many small inlets framed by mature ponga trees along the western shores of the Upper Mangatāwhiri Reservoir. After an easy 3km, leave the road where it starts to climb to the junction with Wairoa Hill Road. The real tramping begins here. Turn right onto Ernies Track (signposted), which undulates…

The track begins from the car park at the end of Glen Nevis Station Road and is indicated by a DOC board. Cross the stile and follow the 4WD track through private farmland. Initially, a poled route ascends over 200m, so expect a breathless climb. The zigzagging ascent continues for around 3km to another fence. This is the boundary to The Remarkables Conservation Area. Once over the stile, ignore the poled route to the left and instead follow the path to the right for around 400m until reaching a fenceline, which leads directly to the summit. The climb through tussock is tough going, but the gradient soon eases. Around 1300m the tussock is gradually replaced by rocky terrain for the final push to the top. The fenceline diverts south at…

IT was by accident that ultrarunning champion Camille Herron discovered beer as the perfect drink to fuel her trail races. “I had nausea during a hot 100km back in 2016,” she recalls. Husband and coach Conor had a six-pack set aside for after the race. “He offered me a beer to help with the nausea. I perked up after that and got back running! I had another one-and-a-half beers at another aid station – I set a 28-min course record.” Herron has a number of world records under her belt, on trails and the road. It’s safe to say she knows a thing or two about what to do outdoors. And she’s not the only one to enjoy the joys – and benefits – of a trail beer. Now, we’re…

There was a time when MSR stoves were ubiquitous. A few years ago you could visit any backcountry hut and, if you had company, they would more than likely all be cooking on the same noisy conversation-killing device. Many of us will be familiar with that moment when the final hut meal is cooked and silence – and then chit chat – returns. Some MSRs are noisier than others, with the aptly named Whisperlite being much more bearable than the jet turbine roar of a Dragonfly or XGK. Huts seem quieter these days. Jetboils and other super-light canister stoves have become more common, and while being more agreeable for user’s hearing, they’re a less environmentally friendly option. I’m guilty of using canister stoves too, but for a few reasons the…

OSPREY RENN 65 $299 Used by: Pack destroyer Hazel Phillips Used for : Six months Osprey packs are known for their comfortable harnesses and the women’s specific Renn lives up to the hype. It’s contoured and padded and helps with stable load distribution (it’s designed for carrying 14-18kg). It’s an entry-level pack with a one-size-fits-all frame that has 10cm of adjustability. The mesh back helps with airflow, but it does mean the load sits slightly further away from the fulcrum of your back. It is supremely spacious. I’ve used it on a five-day trip and reckon it could extend to a week-long trip. The roomy side pockets fit a Nalgenesized bottle and have an alternative horizontal entry point, which can be useful for accessing things by reaching behind your…

Construction Socks should fit snugly and stay put when they’re on. Elasticated arches and ankles provide a tight fit and prevent socks sliding forward and bunching around the toes. The weave – in various thicknesses and knits – creates airspace against your skin to help keep feet dry and move moisture into the boot lining. COMFORT Padding is provided in key areas such as the heel, arch, toes and shin to soften the impact of trail walking and absorb pressure from footwear. Moisture management The primary purpose of a tramping sock is to keep feet dry. Feet can sweat up to a cup of water a day, and socks draw this moisture away from the foot and into the lining of the footwear. The moisture is then wicked through the…

What was your motivation for writing Chasing Whitetail Bucks? My first book [called simply Chasing Whitetails] was a personal thing, but there was a lot of stuff people were saying I should have included. Over the years I’ve known a lot of hunters, and they have a lot of stories, a lot of lore and experiences. There’s a lot of history on the island, especially hunting history, that’s never been recorded. I didn’t want it to get lost, to slip into oblivion. I also wanted to share my knowledge and experiences on Stewart Island with others and to promote recreational hunting here. The book is packed with Stewart Island hunting lore. What was the importance of having that included? Hunting history was part of the whole process of writing it.…