Table of contents for December 2017 - January 2018 in Wanderlust

MARCUS ELDH Swedish wolf-howling guide Marcus has been interested in Sweden’s wildernesses for as long as he can remember. He has long championed the country’s wildlife, such as moose, lynx and wolverine, which often fall below many travellers’ radars. His mission is to bring Sweden’s fauna to the forefront of visits, and he took Wanderlust editor Phoebe Smith out to show exactly what lies in store for those who seek it, including howling alongside Sweden’s native wolves – p50 Mountain, desert, ocean or jungle… which are you? Forest and mountain. First great travel experience? Cycling my way through Laos and Vietnam. Favourite journey? Cycling and camping out in the Peruvian mountains for two months with two friends. Top five places worldwide? Sundborn, Dalarna County, Sweden; Swedish Lapland; the Lofoten Islands,…

‘Whether it’s for political or for environmental reasons, Russia matters and we need to know more about it and engage with it more’ Your programme marks 100 years since the Russian Revolution. How different is the country now to back then? One of the reasons many Russians love Putin is because he has made them a bit richer and given them some freedom [compared with the Soviet era]. Yet in some key areas, it felt that things stayed the same, with an all-powerful Tsar back in charge. It almost feels like Russians are condemned to be under the control of strong leaders. But they’ve preserved much of the pre-Revolution history and architecture, so you get to see and understand much more about Russia and its history by travelling across it.…

YES Lynda Higgs, Wanderlust reader “The sad fact is that the very locations that illicit wanderlust in any serious traveller are often also huge tourist attractions. It therefore makes sense to charge a small fee, so long as it goes towards maintaining and restoring these sites. Certainly, in the case of the Pantheon, I absolutely would pay; €3 is negligible and would hopefully help reduce the damage that is caused by ever-increasing crowds of visitors at a beautiful historic site.” NO Jon Keen, Wanderlust reader “I won’t visit York Minster now because they charge an admission fee, even though I have great memories of it. For example, I spent some quiet time there on the morning I got married. I’ve been countless times before and I’ve always donated generously to…

VITAL STATISTICS Capital: Stockholm Population: 9.9million Languages: Swedish, but English is widely spoken Time: GMT+2 (GMT+1 Mar–Oct) International dialling code: +46 Visas: Not required by UK nationals for stays of up to three months Money: Swedish Krona (SEK), currently around SEK11 to the UK£. ATMs are found in the major towns and cities. Bars, restaurants and shops accept credit cards. When to go • Best for wolf howling – winter is over, so the beaver are active. Around 100,000 moose calves are born around June, and wolf litters are born in May, so a very good chance of howling. Long summer days. • Best for northern lights – lots of snow, with a good chance of seeing the aurora. Wolf mating also means that sightings are possible; moose are also…

What happened? My family and I had a two-week trip to Lapland booked for over Christmas. We booked our flights independently with Monarch because they were direct and convenient – we all know what happened next. Sadly, the alternatives were dire in terms of flight times and stopovers, and the nearest option would have meant a huge extra cost. As for accommodation, we booked it online and, unfortunately, it had a ‘no refund’ policy. Luckily, after some desperate pleading, the hotel allowed us to transfer the booking to next year at a small extra fee, so I’m grateful for that. But both of our kids were deeply upset. How did you deal with the situation? We panicked slightly (obviously!), and then began a two-pronged approach of looking for flight alternatives…

‘Strong winds blow in jellyfish from deeper oceans, and sometimes there are broken tentacles in the weeds, which can still sting’ CASE STUDY: STUNG IN SARDINIA Mary Novakovich, freelance writer “My husband and I went swimming in a cove while we were in southern Sardinia. The water was quite seaweedy and rocky, which made it difficult to see what was in front of me. We started splashing through the waves, but within seconds both of us cried out in pain. It was a sharp, stinging pain that wouldn’t go away. I knew immediately it was a jellyfish – I couldn’t think what else it could be. I asked the Italian family that was on the beach with us if they’d heard reports of jellyfish (aptly called ‘medusa’ in Italian). There…

Our taxi had just pulled up outside the Buenos Aires tango school of Dante Sánchez – winner of the World Tango Dance Tournament 2007 – when I made up my mind to confess a nagging worry to my dance teacher, Laura. “I’m an absolute beginner,” I told her as we made our way up the school’s stairs. It was then that I caught sight, through a narrow window, of a couple executing exquisite pirouettes, both of them stern-faced yet sensuous, formal but fluid. “A total beginner, really!” Once we were in our hired room – a proper dance space with a polished wooden floor and ceiling-high mirror – she asked me, “But you lived here for ten years, didn’t you?” “Yes, and I got into the music,” I said, embarrassed.…

There’s a good reason the northern lights tops travellers’ wishlists. But we’ve all seen our fair share of jealousy provoking aurora images decorating peoples’ social media timelines, so the challenge now for visitors is to shoot its heavenly beauty in a different way. Snapper Kamil Nureev has managed to do just that, capturing the ethereal phenomenon glowing above the forest tundra of Siberia (above). Its pulsing, hollow emerald plates seem to bleed from the sky into the hyaline lake below. It’s a captivating scene taken in a part of the world that travellers are only really starting to discover (see p26); Russia’s vast frozen lakes and forests can promise an authentically wild setting for a crowd-free adventure. Kamil’s image – ‘Autumn Dance’ – has been named runner-up in the ‘Aurorae’…

1 Russia is one of the great lungs of the world, being home to a quarter of the planet’s trees; p18 2 Christmas Island is home to an estimated 45 million red crabs; p70 3 The London Underground first used gas-lit, coal-driven wooden trains. We hope they had insurance; p85 4 In West Timor, the animist villagers of Boti apologise to the trees before cutting them down; p118 5 Paddington Bear originally hailed not from Peru but ‘darkest Africa’… until author Michael Bond was told the continent didn’t have any bears; p24…

We all love a good cup of coffee, but in Turkey the drink is more an inseparable part of local life. From the moment the beloved bean first arrived in the 16th century, coffee ceremonies were intrinsic to the Ottoman court, and this soon percolated down to street level. Even today, the ritual of Turkish coffee is one that travellers seek out. Wander into any coffee house in Istanbul and it feels like something from another age. First, the beans are roasted and ground, then boiled with sugar in a copper pot (known as a cezve), and then finally served with a glass of water. It’s less technique than tradition, and one that’s even been recognised by UNESCO. But above all, coffee has a social purpose here. Chatting over a…

BRISTOL WILDERNESS LECTURES Bristol, 13 Dec 2017 & 24 Jan 2018 www.wildernesslectures.com Chemistry Theatre, Bristol University. 7.30pm. From £9.50. Visit the website to book. Epic adventurer Felicity Aston (13 Dec) recalls her feats of endurance on the White Continent, including becoming the first person to ski solo across Antarctica; and Steve Berry (24 Jan 2018) tells the story of the unexplained tracks that he discovered in the Himalaya mountains. DESTINATIONS 2018 Manchester, 18–21 Jan 2018 London, 1–4 Feb 2018 www.destinationsshow.com EventCity, Manchester / Olympia, London. Manchester from £8.30; London from £11 (under-12s free). Book online or call 0844 412 4627. Wanderlust subscribers receive two free tickets (look out for them in our February issue); non-subscribers will get a discount. Mingle with specialist tour operators, sample world foods and visit the…

VITAL STATISTICS Capital: Flying Fish Cove Population: About 2,000 Language: English, Malay, Chinese Time: GMT+7 International dialling code: +61 Visas: Australian visas are required by UK nationals, who can also apply for a free eVisitor online at: www.border.gov.au/Trav/Visa-1/651- Money: Australian dollars (A$), currently A$1.71 to the UK£. There is a bank and an ATM but commissions are high, so it pays to get cash in advance. Credit and debit cards can be used. When to go Dry season – the lowest rainfall and a little cooler (26°C average high). Red crab migration – the onset of the rains is one of the triggers; dates vary. Rainy season – wettest in Feb, then starts to ease (28°C); possible monsoons. Health & safety No particular health issues. There is a hospital with…

Malcolm Parkinson, product manager and Argentina expert at adventure tour operator Exodus Travels, shares his tips on the country’s best sights and eats... ONCE IN A LIFETIME: Over the next three years, you will be able to see two total eclipses (2019, 2020) in different regions of Argentina. They can be very moving, especially when witnessed in one of the country’s scenic and lesser-known areas, such as Salta in the north. WHAT TO EAT: You’ve probably heard about Argentinian steak and wine, but don’t forget its empanadas. In the Salta region – famous for its empanadas salteñas – you’ll find the best in the whole country, made with spicy ground beef, potatoes and spring onions. You can also find different fillings, such as chicken, chorizo, cheese or vegetables. MUST VISIT:…

VITAL STATISTICS Capital: Buenos Aires Population: 15,180,000 (metropolitan) Language: Spanish Time: GMT-3 International dialling code: +54 Visas: UK nationals don’t require visas for stays of up to 90 days Money: Argentine pesos (AR$), currently around AR$22.92 to the UK£ When to go • Spring & autumn – Buenos Aires is most pleasant in spring (Oct/Nov), when the trees are in bloom, and autumn (Apr/ May), when the summer rains turn things green and temperatures dip a little. • Winter – late autumn and winter are often cold, dark and wet. However, every August, BA hosts the International Tango Festival and Championship, which has free concerts, performances, classes and milongas. All events are free; visit turismo.buenosaires.gob.ar for details. • Summer – swelteringly hot. During this time the city can feel a…

STAR LETTER Safety in travel In your Big Debate [September 2017, issue 179], you asked if travel insurance should be compulsory. I’d never travel without it. In 2009, I had to cancel two trips, just eight months apart. A back injury would have made ten days bouncing around Botswana in a Land Rover acutely painful (and dangerous), and secondly, my mother fell ill and I had to forgo a fortnight in Cuba to care for her. In both cases it was very close to the departure and I’d paid in full. Without cancellation cover, I’d have been nearly £5,000 out of pocket and luckily, my insurers paid in full, and I could visit Botswana and Cuba in happier circumstances later on. So, I’d advise everyone to get travel insurance, just…

VITAL STATISTICS Capital: Jakarta Population: 261 million Language: Numerous regional languages unified by Bahasa Indonesian Time: GMT+8 (Nusa Tenggara) International dialling code: +62 Visas: Not required by UK nationals for stays of up to 30 days; longer visas available on arrival at the airport. Money: Indonesian rupiah (IDR), currently IDR17,770 to the UK£. When to go Barring higher altitudes, temperatures rarely drop below 25ºC all year round. • Dry season – conditions get drier heading east, and this is the least humid time, with July and August seeing larger crowds (particularly in Bali and Lombok), as prices also rise. It’s mating season for Komodo dragons, so they are otherwise occupied and seen less during this time. • Wet season – between January and March is too wet to scale Rinjani.…

PHOEBE SMITH • EDITOR • Howling with the Swedish wolves – just a two-hour drive from Stockholm... SEE PAGE 50 TOM HAWKER • PRODUCTION EDITOR • Going underground in London... but not with Paul Weller SEE PAGE 85 GARETH CLARK • SUB-EDITOR/WRITER • Saying goodbye to cabin fever by glimpsing the future of in-flight travel SEE PAGE 12 RHODRI ANDREWS • ASSISTANT EDITOR • Finding his fortune and future travels (maybe) in a cup of Turkish coffee SEE PAGE 16…

‘Qantas has trialled virtual reality headsets on its flights, which can help to calm nervy passengers’ Crammed in like sardines. No in-flight entertainment. Fees for using headphones and blankets. Despairing headlines have filled our news feeds recently with tales of how we’re getting less value for our money when it comes to flying. But this only tells part of the story. In fact, according to experts, it’s less reduction and more ‘revolution’, with airlines now starting to tailor on-board features to their passengers. “Airlines are ploughing a lot of resources into cabin innovation,” says Nadejda Popova of market research company Euromonitor International. “For example, Lufthansa is setting aside over £1bn to personalise their cabins, and Emirates has recruited a chief information officer to focus on transformation.” Leading the charge is…

The Ganges with Sue Perkins Out now, £20 (also iPlayer) A billion Hindus can’t be wrong? The engaging Sue Perkins heads off in search of the source of the holy Ganges – and to come to terms with her dad’s death. Her 2,400km pilgrimage along the Mother Goddess sees her get altitude sickness in the Himalaya and experience rituals rooted in the river’s power. And if you’re quick, you can still catch it on iPlayer for free.…

Long before he was ‘TV’s Levison Wood’, the star was on his wanders. Eastern Horizons (£20, Hodder & Stoughton) recounts Wood’s gap-year adventures on the Silk Road in 2004, revealing a restless search for the authentic in his vagabond trek through Russia, Iran and the ’Stans. Isambard Wilkinson is on a similarly resolute hunt for the real Pakistan. Travels in a Dervish Cloak (£20, Eland) tries to unravel the political and social complexities that helped turn the country into the ‘War on Terror’s’ frontline – but also what remains of the old, mystical land of travel lore. The US of A’s been getting some bad press of its own recently. In the run up to last year‘s election, Geoff Steward took a career break to go on a US road…

1 Animal Welfare category winner: Elephant Hills These multi-day nature tours prove that elephants can be an integral part of Thailand’s tourism without being ridden or kept in unnatural conditions. 2 Community-based tourism: G Adventures Judges remarked on how this tour operator works with its local partners in Thailand to link together hill-tribe communities and help educate them in sustainable development, hospitality and literacy. 3 Eco Lodge/Hotel: Elephant Hills Rainforest Camp The judges were impressed by how this tented camp in Khao Sok NP limits its waste impact, generates its own solar and wind energy and runs local wildlife-monitoring projects. 4 Marine: Mai Khao Marine Turtle Foundation A worthy winner for helping to conserve endangered turtles and for educating local children and visitors on these creatures and the challenges they…

1 Set up the shot I found this narrow trail by day, so I knew an animal would walk by this position at some point. This extra time allowed me to set up the lighting as you might in a studio – with carefully placed lights. Doing the recce first really paid off. 2 Make a spotlight The spotlight effect (where only part of the subject is lit) comes from using an off-camera light source set at about 90 degrees to the shot. One way to achieve this is to use a speed snoot (essentially a funnel to direct the light) over a portable flash. Another is to use your surroundings, manoeuvring the subject when the sun is low in the sky to the correct angle, so that the sun…

How we did the test… We asked gear manufacturers to submit the gilets that they felt were most suitable for travellers. Our editor, Phoebe Smith, then took them out on the road to assess the available options. The ‘Value Buy’ and ‘Best in Test’ are indicated. COLUMBIA Lake 22 Vest £90 Despite being the only one here under £100, this gilet has good stats: 650-fill down (certified responsible), water- and stain-resistant fabric, four pockets, a zip draught excluder and heat-sealed (no stitches) baffles. But its weight – 246g (size M); third heaviest on test – and lack of a scooped bottom does hold it back. Verdict: A great budget option with some nice touches. www.columbiasportswear.co.uk HAGLOFS Essens III Down Vest £150 This gilet is the lightest by far at just…

• Your Story A brief brush with celebrity Reader Dineke ten Hove discovers how an innocent cycle can turn you into a local star in southern China The quick photo had turned into what felt like a full shoot, after the four Chinese students practised their English on me while cycling back from Moon Hill. ‘This is what it must be like for a celebrity,’ I thought, as the fourth girl stood next to me, made the ‘V’ for victory sign and we had our photo taken. I had spent the day cycling in the beautiful countryside around Yangshuo in southern China. The jagged peaks of the karst mountains dominated the landscape here. Outside the villages, people tended to their crops in the traditional way, wearing their distinctive conical hats…

I’ve just been to Finland, the beautiful and almost forgotten ‘land of a thousand lakes’. It’s rarely visited in my experience – I believe we counted on one hand the number of foreign registration plates we saw. It was a thrill to think we had the lakes, forests, wild berries, saunas and trails all to ourselves. Wanderlust covers the most amazing off-the-beaten-track locations so, maybe it should be you to let the secret out and reveal the wonders of Finland to the rest of the world! [Editors’ note: Coincidentally, we have! See p20 for Finland’s newest national park, Hossa.] Rachel Daly, Ireland…