Table of contents for Spring 2026 in Threads Magazine

One of the most common reasons—likely the most common reason—people sew their own clothes is to have a wardrobe that meets their needs and preferences. Surveys we’ve run make it clear that our readers refuse to be limited by the offerings in stores and online. They know that taking control of what they wear is part of telling the world who they are. Marcy Harriell writes compellingly about this, p. 81. But there’s more to it than just the production of wearable garments—though we are fortunate to have the skills to do so. Think about the greater benefits you accrue from learning and challenging yourself each time you try a new project. In this spring issue, Saskia ter Welle, a couture expert and instructor, encourages sewists to make the choice…

After decades as a metal artist, I decided several years ago that it was time for a change; I wanted to work with something that was softer and more colorful. So it was only natural that I returned to an early love of mine: garmentmaking. I am especially fond of jackets, and now share with you how I use fabric paints to transform jacket sections before assembling them into a unique garment. Whether you’re sponging on a single layer of color or layering motifs, surface design is a fantastic way to add personality and flair to pieced textile projects. I hope this inspires you to explore it for yourself. Dale Jenssen is a designer who dabbles in a variety of mediums. See more of her work at DaleJenssen.com. Get Started…

Spandex was developed as an alternative to rubber, which was in short supply due to World War II. Spandex, an anagram of “expands,” is also known generically as elastane, and is marketed under the trade name Lycra. It was originally used in women’s girdles during the 1950s, but since then, it has become a staple fiber in almost every clothing collection. Spandex is often associated with knit fabrics, but it gets at least as much use in woven fabrics. Adding spandex to a woven fabric gives it stretch and recovery for wearing comfort. It also adds strength to most fibers, increasing the lifespan of garments. Spandex is mixed with almost every fiber in today’s textile industry. You can find it in everything from denim to lightweight cotton and silk, making…

You don’t need a five-year plan to set off on your path. You need clarity, consistency, and commitment. These six items of focus will get you started. • Curate with purpose. Choose five fabrics from your collection that reflect the direction you want to go. Let them shape your next phase, creatively and strategically. Remember that your fabric collection is no accident. It’s the result of years of refinement—of taste, texture, color, and possibility. • Define your edge. What sets your work apart? A technique? A silhouette? A story? Find it, name it, and lean into it. • Show your work. Share one finished piece that reflects your style. Don’t wait for perfection. People respond to authenticity, not polish. • Remove the roadblock. Identify what’s holding you back—tech, confidence, pricing,…

When my college roommate unpacked a pair of matching “patchwork” bedspreads on move-in day, I cringed like I’d sewn a dress dart inside out. I’d been making my own clothes since junior high home economics class, and I could identify the printed polyester from across the room. Admittedly, it was a small room. But it wasn’t just the slippery material or hodgepodge plaids I objected to. Quilts seemed hopelessly out of date, like calico curtains or crocheted doilies. How was I to start a new, independent life if it looked like I was living in grandma’s basement? I never could have imagined then that quilting would become a decades-long obsession for me. But after struggling for hours to adjust a pair of pants, I decided to try sewing things that…

Sunburst accordion pleats, as shown on the pants, p. 55, are just one option offered by professional pleaters. GETTING STARTED See more pleating styles, then learn how to choose and order pleated fabric for your next project from InternationalPleating.com, as Mary Funt did. The site provides a wealth of resources, especially for pleating newbies. You may want to start with the free downloadable Pleating 101 e-book. There’s also a video on how to order custom-pleated fabric, additional pdf e-books, skirt pattern and instructions, order forms, and George’s helpful blog. PRICING Type of pleating, fabric type and length to be used, pleat size, and construction of the end product all factor into cost. It is best to first figure out what result you want, then consult the website, and seek advice…

Q. We love the look of a quilted jacket, but when making how can you reduce bulk at the seams? A. Sewing expert Ruth Cabble, a teacher at Danner’s Bernina in Hanover, Pennsylvania, instructs her students about this method of reducing bulk at a jacket’s seams even before the quilted garment is assembled. Below, she explains how to do this at the sleeve cap and underarm seam. With this method, there’s no need to trim the batting after construction, but you’ll have bulk-free, ½-inch-wide seam allowances. Start with the chosen pattern: 1| Be sure to have two copies of the jacket’s sleeve pattern. The original is for the fashion fabric and lining; the second copy is for the batting. Make the batting pattern ¼ inch to ⅜ inch smaller than…

When you are ready to take the next step in developing your sewing, design, and textile skills, you’ll want to take a look at two books. They cover traditional and innovative techniques, giving you context and inspiration for your own work. Both books are geared toward those with some textile and sewing experience, yet the content will not be lost on a beginner. Interwoven: Exploring Materials and Structure by Maarit Salolainen (Thames & Hudson, 2024) The author of this hefty volume about woven fabrics is a longtime textile designer and professor at Aalto University in Finland. Her book may be used as a textbook, with projects intended to encourage experimentation with materials and concepts. But that’s just one facet of this comprehensive publication. In nearly 500 pages, Interwoven explores the…

Clothing has always been my armor. Growing up mixed, I was put in a color box: too light, too dark, too . . . different. And never the right fit. My parents encouraged me to loudly embrace my “different,” but my shy demeanor needed armor: wild, colorful clothing that proclaimed who I was when I couldn’t. When I discovered the voice to match my armor, it was in song and performance. In costume, I could be anything. As my parents cheered from the audience, I took the lid off the box. But when childhood passion grew into a career, I found myself hemmed in again. Dressed blandly at auditions, I’d debate which single ethnic box to tick on the mandatory sign-in sheet, knowing chances were slim if the room wasn’t…

BARBARA EMODI (“Dress for Your Next Bon Voyage!” p. 48) says, “I am a fabric-first sewist. My first question is ‘Am I in love with this fabric?’ Next, I ask, ‘How will this fabric and pattern feel on my body?’ If it is not going to be comfortable, I don’t sew it. We all start visually, but humans experience clothing as a sensory experience. This is how all intelligent toddlers choose what to wear. We can learn from them.” Barbara Emodi sews in Nova Scotia where she also writes cozy mysteries about women who make things. FInd out more at BabsEmodi.com. MARCY HARRIELL (“Closures: My Technicolor Dream Armor,” p. 81) says, “I audition my ideas more than edit them—pinning trims, draping sleeves, adding fabric on the fly—and every magpie choice…

LOOK FOR THESE ICONS ON THE PATTERN REVIEWS Relaxed, Elegant Dress LORE PIAR: KARA TUNIC DRESS AND BLOUSE (LorePiar.com) Skill level: Perfect for those looking to comfortably transition from simple projects to more detailed garment construction. Size range and fitting: Sized EUR 30 through 58 for busts 30 inches to 63 inches, waists 22 ¾ inches to 58 ¼ inches and hips 32 ¼ inches to 74 ¾ inches. This is a very roomy design. Check the finished garment measurements to guide you in your size selection. Petite wearers should double-check the sleeve length, bust point, and front tie locations. Fabrics: Linen and other fabrics with body are perfect. Wovens and structured knits are suitable, and the look will vary based on the fabric’s drape. Style and sewing details: This…

There’s a good chance you have a significant assortment of fabrics, amassed over years of planning and shopping. Each piece represents your taste and ideas, and it holds potential. But for what? You could use it to create your next favorite garment. You could use it to launch a capsule project, teach a technique, or sell pieces online. You could even use it to support a younger generation, through a donation, a challenge, a mentorship initiative. Whatever path you choose, your collection deserves more than storage. It deserves meaning, movement, and expression. Just as you are engaging your technical and creative skills, be sure to make the most of your fabrics.…

One of America’s top designers from the 1970s to the early 2000s, Mary McFadden was deeply inspired by textiles and silhouettes from many cultures and historical periods. She is perhaps best known for her pleated dresses, reminiscent of early 20th-century pieces by Fortuny. McFadden’s dresses were designed to evoke sculpted caryatids from the Acropolis, but they have a cinched slinkiness that appealed to fashionable women centuries later. The fabric she used, called Marii, was patented by McFadden in 1975. Although the process of creating Fortuny’s pleats remains a secret, McFadden’s version is a successful, modern rendition. It’s made of polyester, and was machine-pleated in the United States. You can learn to sew sunburst-pleated fabric—a different pleat style—on p. 54. Source: from the collection of the Goldstein Museum of Design, University…

ONLINE EXTRAS Links to patterns: Access links to every pattern listed in “Explore Contrasts for Spring” by using the QR code on p. 41.  Pieced and painted jacket inspiration: Threads Insiders can see more examples of Dale Jenssen’s artistic jackets, as shown in “Surface Design for Pieced Garments,” p. 12, plus a list of resources to help you create similar looks. More on pleating: View more information about Tom’s Sons International Pleating. Threads Insiders also can find out how to line pleated pants. Travel essentials: Consider some easily packable necessities besides the planned outfits for your next trip. The list is available to Insider members in an enhanced version of “Dress for Your Next Bon Voyage!” by Barbara Emodi. ON-DEMAND LEARNING with Cynthia Guffey Learn how to improve the fit of garments…

• Place opposing pattern pieces adjacent to one another on the table to avoid motif duplication in identical areas and to avoid placement pitfalls, such as putting a large pinwheel right over each breast. • Be sure to make enough paint, if you’re mixing your own color(s). It’s tricky to replicate an exact shade later. • Think about the look you want. My design goal is to create visual depth by placing colors and motifs that make the eye move around the fabric. I layer elements so that some recede into the background, while others stand out. I like to have a single motif in several sizes. Larger motifs can act as a focal point, while smaller ones create rhythm and harmony.…

When we talk about couture, it always begins with the same trinity: exceptional quality of materials, skilled hands, and a rich imagination. You can purchase fine materials; skill and creativity can be learned and developed. But for someone with a passion for couture, there’s more to achieving fulfillment in your sewing journey: You need to find your point of view, a concept of where you want to go with your sewing. From my own experience, I know that progress in an artistic pursuit such as couture sewing is as much a mindset as a set of techniques. Whether you’re considering a career in couture, or want to engage more intentionally with the garmentmaking you do for your own pleasure, I’ll offer guidance on establishing a satisfying, successful, and joyful practice.…

I’ve been a Charles Dickens fan since I first read A Tale of Two Cities in high school. I like the long ramblings, the way everyone and everything seems to connect and, most especially, the opening lines of that novel, which have cycled back into relevancy: “It was the best of times, it was the worst of times, . . . it was the season of Light, it was the season of Darkness, it was the spring of hope, it was the winter of despair, we had everything before us, we had nothing before us . . .” These lines remind me the world is more insanely beautiful and more dangerously horrible than most would suspect, and these opposing states can be true at the same time. Fashion, art, and…

Intricately pleated textiles are accessible to more than just well-heeled, couture-level garmentmakers. The textured fabrics are easily within reach of sewing hobbyists, too. Simply start with a professional pleater, such as Tom’s Sons International Pleating in Manhattan. This Garment District mainstay brings the world of custom pleating to those who sew for themselves or the small home-based business. Owner George Kalajian loves to work with home sewists. He says that the typical sewer is shocked to discover that custom pleating is available and affordable for the non-professional. You’ll find that you can incorporate beautifully pleated fabrics into your personally sewn wardrobe with his help and the following sewing how-to. I’ll explain the process for creating permanent sunburst-pleated pants, a style that can go from casualwear to dressed-up attire. Mary Funt…