Table of contents for #203 - June-July 2019 in Threads Magazine

How does where you live influence your sewing? PATRICIA ROBISON (“Sew with Sequined Fabrics,” p. 68) says, “I live in the Pacific Northwest, a place known for cloudy, overcast weather, which has led me to be fascinated by the color gray. I am intrigued by all the grays, from taupe to greige to lavender. Everything I’m sewing and knitting right now is some shade of gray. It’s intriguing to me, seeing how the shade and surface texture of the fabric or yarn affects the color of the end result.” Patricia has spent the past 20 years refining her skills in bridal alterations. She is a long-time member of the Association of Sewing and Design Professionals. TheBridalTailor.com IRINA SIMEONOVA (“Get Started with Draping,” p. 42) owns and teaches at the New…

Serge and cover-stitch confidently The Triumph serger/cover-stitch combination machine is Baby Lock’s top-of-the-line serger. Its RevolutionAir threading system enables you to thread loopers and needles quickly and easily. Pull about 15 inches of thread loose from each cone and insert the ends into the tubular loopers, then press the threading button, which causes the thread to be drawn through and out of the loopers with a whirring noise. The traditional drawback to a combination machine, rethreading, is made simple by the RevolutionAir feature. The Triumph also features variable speed control and automatic tension adjustments, and it is lit with six LED lights arranged around the upper throat space. The Triumph has a capacity of up to eight threads, 87 stitches settings, and a 5-inch throat space to the right of…

The large fabric flowers shown on the back cover inspired this creation. Make the soft blossoms to suit any ensemble by changing the materials: Consider velvet, denim, organza, and silk. You can make them with pin backs so they can go from one garment to another. Once you get started making these, you’ll want to create a whole garden. Contributing Editor Judith Neukam finds inspiration in vintage styles and techniques. Select pretty supplies You need only small quantities of materials. Fabric for blossoms and blossom lining: Choose two coordinating tones. I used hand-dyed silk crepe. Two circles for each flower: Use felt or soft leather for the center and backing circles. Decorative center: Opt for textured ribbons (as was used in the sample at left), lace, sequined fabric appliqué, or hand-sewn…

I’ve been a collector of Chanel garments for many years and have come to appreciate the chic and classic nature of the design house’s skirt suits. Through my research, based on original pieces I own as well as vintage garments in museum collections, and published information, I’ve culled key construction techniques. These yield a skirt that’s sleek, nicely shaped, and exquisitely finished. Applying these methods to a pattern of my own design, I can make a timeless, comfortable, and long-wearing skirt, and so can you. The skirt in question is a faux-wrap style with a straight silhouette. In most versions I’ve made, the outer fabric is quilted to a soft silk lining, mimicking Chanel methods. The style is subtle, and some of the refinements I’ve included aren’t visible in the…

Every family has its share of interesting characters. In the diverse lineage of sewing machine needles, the double-eye needle is the candidate for family oddball. It is currently available from Schmetz or Bernina, in size 80/12 with a universal point and, of course, two eyes stacked vertically near the tip. While its appearance may be unconventional, the double-eye needle has a purpose. The key to unlocking its potential lies in using different thread combinations and stitch patterns. The double-eye needle is intended to carry two strands of upper thread while creating a single stitch. Layering threads creates a uniquely textured top-stitching effect. The creative opportunities for using such a needle are obvious, but it does require a few adjustments and considerations to ensure accurate stitching. It can also create extralong…

French couturière Jeanne Lanvin is credited with introducing the robe de style in the 1920s. It was a popular alternative to the straight chemise silhouette of the flapper dress, and it was enthusiastically embraced in American and French fashion. The robe de style is characterized by a slightly dropped waist and full skirt that may even be supported by panniers. The bodice is often sleeveless with a modest neckline. This version, made around 1924, includes ruched trim on the bodice and skirt and a contrasting fabric flower adornment on one shoulder. Turn to p. 22 to learn how to make the large blossom. Source: The Sue Ann Genet Costume Collection, Syracuse University School of Design…

EDITOR’S NOTE Restarting projects We recently taped an episode of our monthly Sewing with Threads podcast that focused on incomplete projects. I have a large wooden chest at home full of them, from dresses that need hemming to coats that came to a halt at sleeve setting. While looking for a project to talk about during the episode, I was surprised by how many stalled sewing projects I have. Time is a factor, as it is for any busy person who is also passionate about making. Yet I find some time every day to invest in personal sewing—so why shouldn’t I complete these garments? In talking about it with other members of the Threads team, I found there were three curable causes that led to many of my incomplete projects.…

With embellishment, sometimes what you take away is as important as what you add. In the technique shown, fabric is cut away to uncover a floral design backed by sheer chiffon. This method blends elements of cutwork and reverse appliqué to create an adornment as simple or intricate as you like. To achieve this effect, back a garment’s fashion fabric with a sheer fabric, sew a design through both layers, and cut through the fashion fabric to reveal the design’s outlines and the sheer fabric within. You can choose a tone-on-tone look or opt for contrasting colors in the face and backing fabrics. The designs are sewn with small stitches, and you’ll want to take your time making them. If you enjoy free-motion stitching, you can try that method instead.…

Ruching has been a popular detail recently on ready-to-wear garments as well as on the runway. I set out to find a simple way to add ruching to a basic straight skirt. The result is a stylish skirt with ruching at the side front and a curved slit. Achieving this look requires only basic pattern manipulation and construction. The skirt back and any facing or waist-band pattern pieces remain the same, except for the back hem, as noted in the instructions. The skirt front is split and transformed, using the slash-and-spread method to create extra length that is then gathered. The ideal pattern for this technique is a darted straight or pencil skirt with side seams and a center-back zipper. Front seaming or side panels may impede the pattern alterations,…

Draping was the earliest means of creating clothing. From ancient Egyptian times to the present, the technique has evolved. During the Industrial Revolution, clothing manufacturers started using flat patternmaking to design garments, but today, draping is still the core technique used in the couture and high-end apparel markets. This three-dimensional approach can yield designs that would be difficult to create through patternmaking alone. Draping requires a sensitivity of touch, a creative eye, and the ability to trust the fabric and let it guide you to the desired result. Every fabric has different properties and each drapes uniquely. In general, we use muslin (or toile) to drape a design rather than fashion fabric. It’s usually 100 percent cotton and has no finish. I will show you how to drape a bodice…

It makes sense that a water-resistant coat developed in a rainy country. In 1823 in northern England, Charles Macintosh came up with a rubber-based substance. Sandwiched between cotton layers, it made a waterproof fabric. Early difficulties—the fabric stank and was heavy, stiff in the cold, and sticky in the heat—were overcome, and demand grew. John Emary opened a shop in London in 1851 and featured garments made from his own rainproof cloth, called aquascutum. Then Thomas Burberry invented gabardine in 1879. Originally waterproofed with lanolin before being woven, the fibers were wool or wool and cotton. Gabardine’s tight, twill weave made it water-resistant and durable. He began using it for overcoats. DESIGNED FOR UTILITY In his book, Military Style Invades Fashion, (Phaidon Press, 2016) author Timothy Godbold sums up the…

Meet Our Digital Ambassadors Threads presents three sewing personalities who share their excitement and expertise in online articles. Becky Fulgoni has been sewing her own wardrobe since elementary school when she grew past any standard ready-to-wear pant lengths. She was introduced to sewing by her mom, an accomplished art quilter. Becky continued honing her craft as a costumer at the Guthrie Threater in Minneapolis, Minnesota. She blogs at TBallooons.blogspot.com. Pamela Howard is the owner of Pamela’s Closet, Inc., based in Newnan, Georgia, and specializes in teaching advanced garment construction techniques, tailoring, and fitting. Pam writes for Threads, and has been a tester for the Pattern Review department for many years. She is also a Bluprint/Craftsy instructor. Peter Lappin began his blog, MalePatternBoldness.com, in 2010. It’s a fun, whimsical, stylish chronicle of his sewing…

LOOK FOR THESE ICONS ON THE PATTERN REVIEWS Includes sizes 24 and up Fast and easy Challenging techniques Petite options For knits Downloadable pattern Charm Patterns: Night and Day Dress (CharmPatterns.ByGertie.com) With a total of 72 design combinations, this retro-style dress is a versatile addition to any wardrobe. There are two highly fitted bodices with bust and waist darts, and a round or square neckline. Each bodice has a collar option that fits into the neckline. The round neckline has a Peter Pan collar with a scarf-like tie at center front, and the square neckline has a square collar with mitered corners. Included are three skirt silhouettes: flared; below-the-knee trumpet; and a wide yoke with gathers beginning at the side-front hip and extending around the back. The flared and yoke…

Threads issues an annual challenge to the members of the Association of Sewing and Design Professionals (ASDP) to spur their creativity and test their design chops. In 2018, we asked the designers to sew unique ensembles inspired by the artistic and technological innovations that characterized Dallas, Texas, in the 1950s. That decade saw the introduction of the integrated circuit by Texas Instruments, multiple achievements in modern architecture, and a visit to the Neiman Marcus flagship store by none other than Coco Chanel. We asked the ASDP members to create a special-occasion look that combined innovation, luxury, and updated 1950s styles for today. The entries were judged on design merit and construction excellence. Judges included Patricia Robison, a past ASDP challenge winner; Michael Crigger, owner of Dallas fabric store Tissu; Threads…

web extra For information about sequin history, visit ThreadsMagazine.com. For drama, sparkle, and visual impact, sequined fabrics are without equal. They can be rich with red-carpet glamour, glow with quiet elegance, or add a hint of sparkle to a simple garment. Depending on how densely clustered the sequins are, the fabric can be difficult to work with. Machine-stitching over sequins can dull or break the needle, so special care is needed when sewing sequined fabrics. In this article, I will go over several types of sequined fabrics and explain the best methods for working with them. Textiles embellished with sequins are widely available, and a close look at the specific fabrication helps determine proper garment construction techniques. Release your inner magpie and make your wardrobe shimmer. Patricia Robison is an expert…

I expected my first year away at university to be filled with scintillating new experiences. Instead, it was full of home-sickness and disappointments. I felt that I needed to “grow up,” and I forced myself to stay on campus even when I was alone and miserable. I had graduated second in my high school class and aimed to maintain a 4.0 grade point average in college. Despite my hard work that first year, I failed to keep an A average. I ended the school year happy to escape. My initial plans for the summer were to complete an unpaid internship out of state, but I had neither the physical nor emotional energy to deal with the stress. I went home instead; relinquishing this opportunity felt like yet another failure. I needed…