Table of contents for #200 - December 2018-January 2019 in Threads Magazine

OLGALYN JOLLY (“Luscious Sweater Knits,” p. 32) says, “If you’re a relative or close friend, it’s quite possible you’ve received a zippered pouch I’ve sewn (featuring one of my sweater knits) or perhaps a dish towel that I’ve embroidered for your birthday or the holidays. Otherwise, I share the sweaters I sew on Instagram (@ojolly) and on my blog.” Olgalyn is a knit designer, living and working in New York City. She teaches at the Fashion Institute of Technology, the Textile Arts Center, and online at OJolly.net. Her blog, Crafting Fashion.com, contains tips for working with sweater knits, as well as inspirational posts and photos of her work. VANESSA NIRODE (“Quick Fix for Jackets,” p. 52) says, “I predominantly sew for work. I’m a tailor and patternmaker for film and…

A terrific alternative to fussy facings and hems, crochet turns an ordinary garment into one that is fun and creative. A crocheted edge can be more flexible than traditional hems and facings, which makes it ideal for wrap coats, ponchos, fluid vests and tunics, skirt hems, necklines, armholes, and more. The technique works with any fabric you can pierce with a small crochet hook. It’s not a stretchy finish, so it’s best for wovens or stable knits that don’t require stretch along edges. I’ll show you the most basic stitch to get you started, and from there, the options are almost unlimited. Tools and materials You can try a wide range of needlework threads and yarns, depending on the fabric you’re finishing and the desired effect. You’ll need a small, steel…

Vogue 9298 (VoguePatterns.com) Bodysuits keep pants and skirts neat by eliminating the bulk of tucked-in shirttails. This close-fitting silhouette has a deep V-neckline, crossover front with waistline pleats, crotch snap closure, and three sleeve options: sleeveless, short, or full-length. If a less revealing front neckline is desired, wear the garment over a camisole or add a hidden snap. Our seamstress recommends tacking down the front neckline facings. All the pattern pieces align correctly and the instructions and illustrations are accurate. Fusible web is used for adhering the facings to the edges of the panty leg openings. With wear and laundering, it is possible the leg facings could come unfused. The top would be luxurious in silk jersey; the design is also appropriate for stretch velvet and stretch terry. (Sized Misses’…

When fashion icon and Vogue Editor-in-Chief Anna Wintour was made a dame by Queen Elizabeth II at Buckingham Palace in 2017, she wore a covetable coat designed by Chanel. I will never receive that honor, but I can have the coat—or a reasonable facsimile thereof. So can you, with this simple pattern adjustment. The coat’s salient feature is a pair of diagonal pleats extending from the center-front waistline toward each hip. The lower half opens at center front with abutted edges; the bodice is double-breasted with a collar that can be worn buttoned to the neck, or open to create lapels. To mimic this look, start with a double-breasted coat pattern that has a waist seam and an A-line skirt. I used Vogue 9157, but Lekala 4192 would also work.…

Winter seems to me like the season for rich and daring sewing projects. The summer may call for a quick denim skirt or a jersey T-shirt. All fall and winter, however, I want to take my time to handle cozy, lush fibers and learn construction secrets for captivating fabrics that require attention and yield worthwhile results. A new author for Threads, Olgalyn Jolly designs natural-fiber sweater knits. These glorious textiles almost convince me to put down my knitting needles (almost!) because they feature the texture, detail, and loft so lovely in handmade knits. Informed with Olgalyn’s technical knowledge, anyone can sew sweater-knit garments that wear and drape beautifully. Olgalyn shares her sewing expertise in “Luscious Sweater Knits,” p. 32. Make It With Wool is back. We are once again featuring…

Do you have a good sewing tip? Send it in, and we’ll pay you if we publish it. We’ll also select the best tip in each issue, and the winner will receive a gift package of The Taunton Press products shown above. (You can see our full line of fiber arts books and DVDs at TauntonStore.com.) This issue’s winner receives: ■ Sewing Essentials: Serger Techniques, by Pamela Leggett. If you own a serger or are contemplating getting one, then you’ll want to learn all the techniques, tips, and tricks for mastering this specialized sewing machine. This instructional guidebook and DVD workshop combo provides you with the know-how for getting the most out of your serger. ($26.95)■ Create a Master Bodice Pattern with Sarah Veblen. Fitting expert Sarah Veblen offers an…

I’ve worked as a tailor and patternmaker for film and television for more than 25 years. During that time, I have altered many men’s and women’s suit jackets and developed techniques for making common fitting alterations as efficiently as possible. One of my favorites is what I call the dart-and-drop technique; I’ve turned to it on many occasions. A DART REMOVES EXCESS CIRCUMFERENCE This adjustment solves a common fit issue: the need to take a jacket in through the body. The most obvious approach is to reduce the circumference at the side seams. However, this isn’t always feasible: Many suit jackets have a side panel, which places seams at the side front and side back rather than down the side of the body. A jacket’s side-front seams are not easily…

I have been involved in 4-H for a long time, as a member and as a volunteer instructor, and I endorse the organization’s commitment to learning by doing. Therefore, I’ve developed a teaching program for sewers in which only one or two new skills are added to each project, to prevent the learner from becoming overwhelmed. This method is ideal for sewers interested in working with wool fabrics. Sewing with wool can seem serious and daunting, but it’s a friendly fiber and well-suited as the basis of skill-building projects. If you’re interested in becoming a better sewer in general, or in learning more about how to work with wool specifically, I can show you how to choose fabrics and projects that introduce all the pertinent techniques you’ll need, in a…

STYLING SOURCES I am a Threads subscriber and I adore your publication. I don’t know how to find the reference to the maker of the white blouse the model is wearing in “Designer Skirt Secrets” by Mary Funt, Threads #198, Aug./Sept. 2018. Please advise. Thank you. —Wendy Murphy, via email Hi Wendy, the blouse is from Zara.com. We work with a stylist who provides ready-towear garments and accessories to supplement the sewn garments from our authors. Each story has photography and styling credits in the “gutter” between pages. It’s tiny print, but it’s there.—SMc THE WARDROBE PURSUIT I read with interest “Three Capsule Wardrobes,” in Threads #199, Oct./Nov. 2018. I love the details and techniques used. In November 2016, I agreed to make a 12-piece wardrobe in 12 months and…

For textiles with a built-in appearance of depth, look to 3-D fabrics. These eye-catching fabrics are layered to create the semblance of three-dimensional motifs. Available in prints from simple to intricate, the 3-D effect breathes life into the textiles. The fabric’s illusion is produced by its construction: It is made with two layers—an opaque underlayer topped with a sheer overlay—printed with the same pattern. The layers are tacked together at regular intervals. This allows them to shift slightly while maintaining the print alignment, so the motifs appear to hover above the fabric surface. In this article, I will explore some tips for easier sewing when working with these textiles and demonstrate how to create your own 3-D fabrics. Sew with 3-D fabrics • You’ll achieve the best result when using…

Begin with a streamlined silhouette, add a showstopping feature and lovely details, and you have a timeless dress such as this 1968 Donald Brooks design. The trim, coatlike garment comprises three sections, with no side seams. The lower front opening is stitched closed to prevent strain on the bottom three buttons. The star feature is the 4-inch-wide ruffle that follows the dress’s edge around the neckline, down the front opening, and along the hem. Elegant details include the satin belt construction and closure. To keep the ruffle from appearing bulky, the belt nips the wool dress in at the waist. Covered buttons and bound buttonholes create a closure that balances the ruffled edge. Within, thoughtfully designed neckline and front facings reduce bulk along the edges. An in-seam pocket is the…

With the holiday season coming up, it’s time to think about what’s on our wish list, and what would make good gifts for our sewing buddies. Threads editors, staff, and contributors have assembled a list of enticing options to get you started on your shopping. We’ve organized these suggestions into three categories: Better Basics, where you’ll find elevated tools for every level of sewer; Sewing Education, which includes materials to enable you to up your sewing game; and Technology & Tools, where you’ll find new and interesting machines and gadgets for your sewing. Better Basics Color me amazed Anyone who has been around me knows that I love color. Having the Coats 50-spool thread collection at my fingertips would be a dream come true. This thread collection would enable me…

He got his start as a fashion stylist in the duo NorrisxThrash, helping men put together confident, noteworthy looks. Now, Norris Dánta Ford teaches menswear sewing through Mimi G’s SewIt Academy.com. Norris also designs menswear patterns for Simplicity and is dedicated to encouraging men to sew. Threads spoke with Norris to learn more about his work and his hopes for the future of men in sewing. Threads: What is your background in sewing? Norris Dánta Ford: I started sewing two years ago, a year after I started dating Mimi G. I had a professional advantage over most beginners because I had one of the most talented DIY bloggers accessible to me every day for the millions of questions I had. After making my first couple of T-shirts with her construction approval,…

A colleague commented that the brown corduroy jacket I was wearing the other day was “very ’70s.” I braced myself for a wisecrack, something about how that decade represented a low point in fashion, but none came. Yes, I’m a bit sensitive about the jacket. First, because my mother made it for me when I was in high school, around 40 years ago. Second, because I suspect it might look kind of goofy. My mother took a freewheeling approach to sewing patterns, making up new styles and following her imagination. Once, I gave my mother the OK to make me a western shirt because it looked good in the catalog. Her quirky mind went to work and took it further, embroidering the yokes with outlandish designs of cacti and sheriffs’ badges.…