Table of contents for Sewing For Beginners, Second Edition in Sewing For Beginners

A key life skill as well as a fun hobby, there is no reason why you shouldn’t pick up a needle and learn how to sew. Perhaps you want to fix the odd tear in your jeans or make alterations to your garments – maybe you’re even a budding fashion designer with a creative itch to scratch. Either way, this book will teach you all the essentials necessary to start stitching. We run through all the basic sewing techniques and lingo, before introducing you to your new best friend: the sewing machine. Explore this powerful gadget and master its seemingly endless functions – you’ll be loading a bobbin or attaching a zipper foot before you know it! Learn the different types of stitches and their uses, and discover various types…

This piece of corduroy fabric is cut and laid out with the nap facing in opposite directions. See the slight difference in the shade of the color? Corduroy, velvet, suede, and flannel are some of the types of fabrics that have pile or nap. The threads on the surface of the fabric are raised and can be smoothed down with your hand. When you slide your hand in one direction, causing the threads to lay flat, it feels smooth; when you slide it in the other direction, causing the thread to stand up, it feels rough. Your pattern pieces must be cut following the nap as well as the grain. When pieces are sewn together with the nap going in different directions, the color of the fabric will look different.…

01 Guide thread from the spool Place the thread on the spool. Pull the thread off of the spool and guide it through the first thread guide mounted on top of the machine. 02 Pull forward into slot Move the thread along the thread guide. Pull it forward and slide it into the narrow slot, guiding it toward the bottom of the machine. 03 Up to take-up lever In the narrow slot, pull the thread around the curve and back up to the top of the machine. This will bring you to the take-up lever. 04 Final thread guide Slide the thread through the take-up lever and back down to the needle. (The thread will go back into the same narrow slot.) Pull it through the final thread guide, just…

Each type of stitch has a corresponding number, noted on the front panel of the machine. Underneath the digital control panel are two buttons to select the stitch number you want. The left button is for the first number; the right button is for the second number. Push up or down to get the desired number. The set of buttons to the right of the digital display control the stitch length and width. In this case, the top button is for the length (note the dotted lines in the red area above) and the bottom controls the width (note the zigzag line in the red area below).…

The best advice as it relates to tension issues is to take out both the bobbin and the top thread and re-thread the whole thing, being sure to guide the thread through the guides and take-up lever. Check to see if your bobbin is wound tight and smooth; sometimes they can get tangled on the spool. You can also check the bobbin area for lint buildup and remove it if necessary. Finally, you can_replace the needle – even a new needle could_be faulty.…

01 Mark your lines Mark your line on the fabric and either pin or use a fusible product to hold the ribbon in place while you sew. 02 Stitch both edges Straight stitch along both edges of the ribbon. Take your time to sew a straight and even line; a wobbly line of stitches will distract. Two ways you can use rickrack trim Some trims can be sewn in the seam or on the surface; it’s really up to your personal preference! Rickrack trim is a great example of a trim being used two ways. On the left side of the image, you can see the trim is sewn in the seam and just the half circles poke out—a cute detail! On the right of the image, you can see…

What you need Cotton fabric Plastic or metal ruler Fabric marking pen Rotary cutter Iron Scissors Bias tape maker tool (optional) Binding edges 01 Fold the fabric Fold the fabric with the wrong sides together, so the cut edge lines up with the selvage. Press along the fold to create a crease that runs along the bias of the fabric grain. Open the fabric and lay it flat, with the wrong side up. 02 Mark parallel lines Create parallel lines at the measurement you want for your bias tape with your fabric marking pen and ruler, using the crease as a starting point (for this example, it is a 2-inch-wide [5 cm] strip). “Create parallel lines at the measurement that you want for your own bias tape” “Press along the…

Two-hole For a two-hole button, thread your needle with the thread folded over and tied in a knot to create a double strand. Poke up from the backside through the right hole, and poke back down through the left hole through to the backside – do this three times. Secure with a knot. 01 Four-hole For extra durability, sew a four-hole in the same method as for a twohole button, but sew over a toothpick to create a bit of slack on the thread. Sew the right side followed by the left side – do each side three times. Remove the toothpick. Shank To sew a shank button, thread the needle in the same manner as for the two-hole button. Sew up from the backside through the hole and back…

Quilting is a technique where you layer three fabrics to create a thicker, padded material. It is often used to create quilts, but it can also be used to create pot holders, placemats, or even pillow covers. It’s possible to quilt using your standard sewing machine foot when working on small projects with no intersecting lines. As you advance in this area and move on to bigger projects, however, you’ll likely want to invest in a quilting foot, walking foot, or free-motion foot. The different quilting methods are shown here – follow along and practice with small scraps to perfect the technique. Note: Most quilted projects are finished off with quilt binding that wraps around the layered raw edges. You can buy it prepackaged or make your own in a…

You should read and follow your pattern instructions to know the exact method for your specific project, but on the next few pages, we show you the basic idea for attaching a collar using a simple shirt design and a basic pointed collar. What you need Standard foot attachment Scissors Iron Straight pins Point turner or pencil 01 Sew the seams shut Sew the shoulder seams and stitch a straight stitch around the neck opening. Sew the collar and turn it right side out. Use an iron to press the collar and shoulder seams open. 02 Make small cuts Snip into the seam allowance just up to the stitching line. 03 Pin the collar With the notches lined up, pin the collar to the shirt. Start at the center in…

What you need Standard foot attachment Seam gauge Fabric marking tool Iron Seam ripper Straight pins 01 Mark a hem line Use a seam gauge and a fabric marking tool to evenly mark a 5⁄8 -inch (1.5 cm) hem line around the entire curve or circle. 02 Sew a basting stitch Sew a basting stitch along the marked line. Do not backstitch; this stitching will be taken out later. 03 Trim excess fraying The stitching line now marks the fold line for your hem. If your fabric has excess fraying, trim it before continuing to the next step. “This technique works well with a gentle curve and can be done on a variety of fabrics” 04 Press the hem and pin Press the hem up along the stitched line. Press…

Important things to notice: • The grain line is a line with an arrow at each end. Line up the piece so the grain is the same as the fabric. Most grain line arrows go straight up and down, while some are on the diagonal. • Place the fold line on the folded edge of the fabric; don’t cut along this side. • You can lengthen a pattern by cutting it apart on the designated lines and adding the desired amount in between the two pieces. Simply tape them together to create a longer piece. Be sure to add the same amount to any other piece—for example, the front and back of a shirt should both be lengthened equal amounts. • Notice any transfer markings on the pattern, such as…

What you need • Knowledge of basic stitches, straight seams, quilting, binding and hand stitching • Two pieces 9-inch (23 cm) square cotton fabric, preferably in different patterns or in a patchwork design • Batting • 21/2 x 38-inch (5.75 x 96.5 cm) binding fabric • Straight pins • Safety pins • Iron • 5-inch (12.75 cm) piece ribbon for loop • Sewing machine • Walking foot (optional) Interested in the idea of quilting, but feel a bit intimidated at the same time? Make a pot holder! It’s a great way to practice basic quilting skills while designing a pretty and functional accessory for your kitchen. You can even piece together scrap fabrics to create a unique patchworkstyle design for the top or bottom layer. 01 Cut and assemble your…

What you need • Knowledge of hand sewing a running stitch • 2 colored felt squares • 1 white felt square • 6×4-inch (15×10 cm) piece fusible web, such as Wonder Under • Embroidery thread in two colors that match the felt colors • Handsewing needle with large eye • Scissors • Straight pins • Iron • Traced pattern pieces from this book Whether you’re planning a casual gettogether or a festive holiday party, these cute coasters will set the theme! Reminiscent of peppermint Christmas candies, these coasters made with felt are the perfect project for you to practice your hand-sewing stitches. This project requires very little experience and doesn’t use a sewing machine, which is perfect for a beginner. 01 Cut out pattern Using the pattern, cut one larger…

What you need • Knowledge of straight seams and sewing corners • 27 x 45-inch (68.5 x 114.25 cm) piece or several smaller 7 x 8-inch (17.75 x 20.25 cm) pieces cotton fabric in coordinating colors • Straight pins • Measuring tape • Scissors • Sewing machine • Iron Keeping your sewing machine covered is a great way to extend the life of your machine. Most models come with a plain white cover that’s a little bland! However, you can use it as a guide to create a fun and more interesting fabric cover. The cover featured here has a functional side pocket and is reversible, too. It’s a great way to brighten up your sewing space! Cover pieces to measure and cut • Front and back: 4 pieces, each…

01 Wrap around bobbin winder Bring the thread around the front of the bobbin winder thread guide. Wrap it around the bobbin in the direction shown for your machine (clockwise here). 02 Pull through Guide the thread to the bobbin and wrap it around the bobbin two or three times in a clockwise direction. Pull the thread through the slit in the base. 03 Click into place Now push the bobbin winder to the right. It will click neatly into place. For some machines you may have to push the lever toward the stationary bobbin winder instead. Next, follow the steps based on your type of bobbin. Top-loading bobbin 01 Place bobbin Remove the bobbin housing cover. Place the bobbin into the hole, following the guide for the direction the…

What you need Zipper foot attachment Seam ripper Piping Straight pins Small scissors 01 Place piping Place the raw edge of the piping trim along the raw edge of the right side of the fabric. Pin in place along the seam allowance. 02 Stitch and cut Baste stitch to hold the piping in place. Cut small slits into the seam allowance to gently curve around a corner. The curve should be smooth, not folded. “Cut small slits into the seam allowance to gently curve around a corner” 03 Layer the fabrics Layer the other piece of fabric on top with the right sides together. Match up the raw edges. 04 Pin the layers Pin through all three layers. It’s easiest to pin through the seam allowance, not through the cording.…

01 Sew a basting stitch Sew a basting stitch at about 1⁄4 inch (.6 cm) from the edge of the fabric. Do not backstitch at either end. 02 Second row Sew a second row of basting stitches just under the first row at a 3⁄8-inch (1 cm) seam allowance. 03 Separate the threads After the two rows of basting stitches are sewn, separate the top threads from the bobbin thread. 04 Pin and secure Slide in a pin on the back of the fabric, and wind the bobbin threads around it to secure 05 Separate opposite threads At the other end of the fabric, now separate the top threads and the bobbin threads. 06 Pull the bobbin threads Gently pull the bobbin threads. This will cause the fabric to bunch…

An automatic buttonhole can be done in several styles, as you can see in this series of photos. The following shows you how to use a buttonhole foot to make a simple buttonhole; refer to your machine’s manual for the specifics What you need Buttonhole foot attachment Button Fabric marking pen Ruler 01 Remove existing foot Release the existing foot, slide it out of the way, and set it aside. Position the buttonhole foot under the presser foot holder, and lower it to attach. 02 Place buttonhole lever Pull down the buttonhole lever and place it behind the notch on the foot. (This works with the button holder at the back of the foot to create the desired-size buttonhole.) 03 Select stitch setting Select the stitch setting for a buttonhole.…

What you need Ruler Fabric marking tool Iron Straight pins 01 Mark the points Mark the three points of the dart with pins. The pink pin is poked through the tissue pattern. 02 Draw your lines Use your ruler and fabric marking tool to draw lines from the two side pins to the center point. This creates a slender triangle. Inside corner This is how you create an inward corner cut into two pieces of fabric. The fabric is sewn with the right sides together 03 Fold and pin Fold up the fabric so the drawn lines are lined up. The point will be the end of the fold. Use straight pins to poke through both layers to see whether the markings are lined up exactly. 04 Stitch down the…

What is it used for? Interfacing is applied to a layer of fabric to add shape, support, structure, or firmness to collars, cuffs, waistbands, and pockets. It is also used to stiffen fabrics used in craft projects, such as purses or fabric boxes. Interfacing comes in two types: fusible and sew-in. Each type has varying weaves – knit, woven, and nonwoven – and can be light, medium, or heavy in weight. Interfacing is usually found in white/cream or black. “The weight of sewn-in interfacing should always be the same as the fabric you’re using” How do you choose the right type? When you’re sewing with a pattern, it will usually specify the type, weave, and weight of interfacing required, so be sure to read the instructions thoroughly. The weight of…

What you need Standard foot attachment Fabric marking tool Iron Straight pins Scissors Narrow ironing sleeve board (or rolled towel) 01 Basting stitches Once the sleeve is cut, sew two rows of basting stitches between the EASE dot marks. 02 Press seam Sew the sleeve side seam, and press open with an iron on a sleeve board. If you don’t have a sleeve board, roll up a towel tightly and slide the sleeve over it to press the seam. 03 Start pinning With the sleeve right side out and the shirt inside out, begin pinning the sleeve to the armhole. Match up the notches and underarm seam. “Easing is similar to gathering, but doesn’t create tucks or visible gathers” 04 Straight stitch Sew with a standard straight stitch around the…

What you need Standard foot attachment Scissors Iron Fabric or existing project 01 Place fabric together Place two pieces of fabric with the wrong sides together. Sew a straight seam at 1⁄4 inch (.6 cm) (this will fit into the standard 5⁄8-inch [1.5 cm] seam allowance). 02 Open and press Open up the fabric, and press the seam open flat. 03 Trim the seams Being careful not to cut the body of the fabric, trim the seam allowance as close to the seam as you can (about 1⁄8 inch [.3 cm]). “While the technique is simple, you must pay special attention to the direction of the fabric” 04 Fold the fabric back Fold the fabric back so the first seam is enclosed. The right sides of the fabric should now…

What you need • Knowledge of fabrics, basic stitches, sewing curved seams, corners, and finishing seams • Basic, store-bought, classic tank top • 1⁄4-yard (23 cm) piece fabric (such as cotton, lace, or chiffon) for collar • Sewing machine • Thread • Scissors • Straight pins • Iron • Measuring tape, pencil, and paper 01 Fold and trace Fold top in half at the center front. Line up shoulder seams. Trace the neckline and shoulder seam onto paper. Following the neckline curve, draw another line 2 inches (5 cm) out, and curve it up at the center front. 02 Prepare the collar Fabric layered right sides together, cut four pieces. Sew a straight stitch at 5⁄8-inch (1.5 cm) seam allowance, starting at the center front up the outside curve up…

What you need • Knowledge of curved seams, appliqués, and quilting • Two coordinating cotton fabrics, preferably in different patterns, cut into small circles of the same size (1 3/4 inches [4.5 cm] in this example) • Small piece felt for center layer, cut into the same-size circle • Lightweight fusible interfacing (such as Wonder-Under) • Key ring • 2-inch-long (5 cm) twill tape or 1/2-inch-wide (1.25 cm) ribbon Adding a stylish key fob is a great way to personalize a set of keys. You can make key fobs in a variety of shapes and sizes, so have fun with fabrics and your choice of appliqué. Make one for yourself or even a friend! 01 Cut, apply fusible web Cut out and apply fusible interfacing to the backsides of the…

Making a pincushion is a great beginning sewing project and a unique way to spruce up your sewing workspace. It helps you get rid of scrap material, and save you having to buy a one. Pick several different fabrics that coordinate well together, and you’re on your way to creating a pretty little pincushion! What you need • Small scraps cotton fabric in two colors • 11 1⁄2 x 2-inch (29.25 x 5 cm) piece cotton fabric • 50 inches (127 cm) thin ribbon or yarn • Hand-sewing needle • Scissors • Straight pins • Iron • Stuffing or batting • Traced pattern piece from this book Top Tip Using vibrant patterns and designs in your pincushion will ensure that you don’t lose sight of it. However, make sure you…

The 4 x 4 square design can be made from a variety of prints or colors. You can create a pattern or make it totally random. Use quilting cotton for the top layer (fat quarters work great!) and a durable fabric like denim or a heavyweight twill for the bottom layer. The blanket has an attached builtin roll cover with a little handle to make it super easy to lug around the park. What you need • Knowledge of straight seams, button holes, and sewing corners • Squares: 16 14 x 14-inch (35.5 x 35.5 cm) cotton fabric • Backing: 54 1⁄2 x 54 1⁄2-inch (138.5 x 138.5 cm) denim fabric (it’s best to buy a fabric that’s 60 inches [152.5 cm] wide on the bolt) • Roll cover: 2…

What you need • Knowledge of straight seams, pivoting, sewing corners, appliqué, and attaching trim • Two 18 x 18-inch (45.75 x 45.75 cm) pieces fabric (Quilting cotton is used here, but you can use any type of fabric that doesn’t have stretch.) • Scraps of fabric for appliqué • One package or 90 inches (229 cm) piping • 24-oz. package batting/polyfill • 6 x 11-inch (15 x 28 cm) piece fusible web, such as Heat and Bond • Measuring tape • Scissors • Sewing machine • Fabric marking tool • Zipper foot • Hand-sewing needle • Iron 01 Create template Use a computer or hand draw the LOVE template. Trace these letters onto your fabric, and prepare the applique with fusible web. Cut out the letters and shapes. 02…

01 Loosen needle clamp Lower the presser foot, or remove the foot to have more space. To release the needle, loosen the needle clamp screw by hand or with the small screw driver that came with your machine. 02 Pull out needle Pull out the needle. Notice the direction the flat side of the needle fits in the slot, toward the back or the front. Insert the new needle into place, and tighten the screw to secure.…

1. Overcasting foot: This foot is designed to sew just past the edge of the fabric in a zigzag motion and finishes the edge. The extended part guides the edge of the fabric, while the tiny metal guide inside holds the fabric flat. It works great with knits! 2. Button fitting foot: This foot allows you to sew on a two- or fourhole button. It works by using a zigzag stitch set at zero length. 3. Invisible zipper foot: Also called a concealed zipper foot, this foot is used specifically for invisible zippers. Invisible zippers are easy to install and are hidden under the edge of the fabric, making them invisible from the outside. 4. Buttonhole foot: This long, rectangular foot is designed to automatically sew buttonholes at a variety…

To sew the backstitch 01 Forward stitch Begin by stitching two forward stitches. 02 Backward stitch Stop sewing, then push the backstitch button and hold it down while sewing two backward stitches. 03 Forward once more Release the button and continue sewing forward. Basting: what’s that all about? The basting stitch is used to hold pieces of fabric together temporarily. It is also used to create ease or gathers. To sew this stitch, select the highest number on the stitch length selector, usually 5. Remember, basting is meant to be removed – don’t backstitch!…

Backstitch This stitch is used to create a strong seam. Start by bringing the needle up from the back of the fabric at point A. Insert your needle back down at point B. Bring the needle up a stitch length in front at point C. Insert the needle back down at point A. Continue along until you’ve reached the end of the seam. Catch stitch This stitch is used to sew a hem with hardly any stitch showing on the outside. Working from left to right and with your needle always pointing left, make a small stitch through the hem fold (A to B). Place the next stitch 1/4 inch (.6 cm) away on the backside of the garment, taking up just a few threads (B to C to D).…

01 Place in between Place the trim in between the two layers of fabric. The finished edge of the trim will point away from the raw edge. Pin. 02 Stitch the layers Straight stitch through all three layers, removing the pins as you sew. Be sure to keep the trim flat and to guide it gently with your fingers. 03 Open to check Open the fabric to see the trim extending out of the seam. You can sew the seam at different widths to have less trim show. Trim the seam on the inside. 04 Press the seam Press the seam with the wrong sides of the fabric together. Depending on the project, you can topstitch or edge stitch for extra durability.…

A zipper foot can be used on more than just zippers... • Sew piping trim on an edge of your project or into a seamline. • Topstitch around a raised fastener, like a snap. • Sew beaded trim. • Sew a circular elastic casing. • Sew in snap tape. 01 Remove existing foot Release the existing foot on your machine; it will drop down and separate from the presser foot holder. Slide it out, and set it aside. 02 Attach zipper foot Place the zipper foot under the presser foot holder, lining up the bar directly underneath. Lower the presser foot lever so it latches to the foot, and lift the lever back up. “All zippers can be sewn with a standard zipper foot, but for installing an invisible zipper,…

What you need Straight pins Small, sharp scissors Seam rippers Straight pins Seam sealant liquid (such as Fray Check) 01 Place pin Place a pin at the end of the buttonhole. This will act as a stop for the tip of the scissors. 02 Carefully cut Carefully cut forward to the pin at the end. Place a pin at the other end and cut to that end. 03 Open up and trim Pull the buttonhole open. Trim any loose threads from the fabric. 04 Apply sealant liquid For extra durability, apply the seam sealant liquid to the cut edges. Test it out by sliding a button through the hole. Who knew there were so many types of buttons Buttons are made in a variety of materials, including metal, glass, plastic,…

Basic appliqué Here, we show you how to sew an appliqué – something you’ll be using for years to come! 01 Find fusible web Make sure you have fusible web, such as Heat and Bond or Wonder Under – it’s necessary to do the appliqué. You can find fusible web in sheets or a roll. 02 Cut fusible web and iron to design Cut a piece of the fusible web large enough to cover the area of the appliqué design. Iron it to the wrong side of the fabric, textured side down. Cover the fusible web with a pressing cloth to protect it and the surface of the iron. 03 Cut design Let it cool. Cut out the design, making sure to cut through the fabric and the paper backing.…

In a pattern envelope, you’ll find printed instructions and pattern pieces printed on tissue paper. The instruction sheet shows the variations that can be made; each variation is labeled with a letter and corresponds to specific pattern pieces. You will also find a cutting layout printed for each style variation. Each pattern piece will have specific markings on the pieces and images to show the right and wrong sides of the fabric. “E-patterns usually have full-color, stepby-step pictures to walk you through” The exciting world of e-patterns E-patterns are PDFs of patterns sold online. You simply pay for the pattern, download it, and print it out on your own printer. E-patterns usually have full-color, step-by-step pictures to walk you through your sewing project, and each picture is lined up with…

What you need • Knowledge of straight seams, knife pleats, and topstitching trim • Premade or store-bought pillowcase • 3-inch-wide x 120-inch-long (7.5 x 305 cm) contrasting fabric strip (for a standard-size pillowcase) • Straight pins • Measuring tape • Fabric marking pencil • Fabric scissors • 1⁄4-inch-wide×21-inch-long (.6 x 53.25 cm) ribbon (or trim of your choice) • 1⁄4-inch-wide (.6 cm) fusible web (such as Steam-ASeam) • Iron Create your own unique bedding by personalizing a plain pillowcase! Adding a simple pleated strip of fabric and a ribbon embellishment are quick and easy ways to freshen up the look of your bedding. This is a great project for someone just learning to sew – just a few basic sewing skills are required, and everything comes together pretty quickly! Top…

What you need • Knowledge of straight seams, pivoting, sewing corners, and binding • One 18×45-inch (45.75 × 114.25 cm) piece or three 18×22-inch (45.75 × 56 cm) pieces heavy fabric, such as denim. (Use three pieces if you want a contrasting exterior and interior.) • 10×12-inch (25×30.5 cm) piece fusible nonwoven interfacing • 48-inch-long (122 cm) extra-wide bias tape • Scissors • Sewing machine • Measuring tape • Straight pins • Masking tape • Iron • Stiff, bristled brush (optional) Keep your make-up brushes clean and organized with this stylish roll-up fabric holder. The design accommodates six to eight brushes and keeps them secure in their own tiny pockets. The fabric folds over to protect them and rolls up for easy, grab-and-go style! Holder pieces to measure and cut…

appliqué Pieces cut from fabric, felt, or other materials that are then sewn onto a foundation fabric. backing The underside or lining in quilting. backstitch One or two firm stitches at the very beginning or end of a row of stitching. ballpoint needle A sewing machine needle with a rounded tip that stitches knit fabrics without splitting the fabric. bar tacks A series of stitches used for reinforcing areas of stress, such as pocket openings or the bottom of a fly opening. baste A large running stitch done to temporarily hold pieces together during both fitting and construction. batting Insulating material between the top and bottom layers of the fabric commonly used in quilts or padded garments. bias The diagonal direction between the straight grain and the crossgrain. True bias…