Table of contents for November/December 2021 in Handwoven

“If this whole weaving thing doesn’t work out, we could always try that,” said my husband, pointing to the wall behind me. Large harnesses with flat steel heddles lined the walls of the restaurant where we were eating in Providence, Rhode Island. Quickly, I noted the width and counted harnesses (eight) before speculating about how many other diners would know what they were looking at. Not many, I guessed, unless they were weavers or friends or family of a weaver. As Virginia Postrel points out in her book The Fabric of Civilization (reviewed on page 12), fabric-related terms imbue (a dyeing-related word) our language yet are often disconnected from their source, just as the harnesses were disconnected from the loom. We throw around terms like “dyed in the wool,” “weaving…

STRUCTURE Shadow huck. EQUIPMENT 4-shaft loom, 18" weaving width; 10-dent reed; 2 shuttles; 2 bobbins. YARNS Warp: 8/2 organic cotton (710 yd/100 g; Venne), #4077 Deep Plum, 550 yd; #4048 Iris, 553 yd. Weft: 8/2 organic cotton, #3020 Raspberry and #4048 Iris, 412 yd each. WARP LENGTH 315 ends 3½ yd long (includes floating selvedges; allows 8" for take-up and 31" for loom waste). SETTS Warp: 17½ epi (2-2-2-1 ends/dent in a 10-dent reed). Weft: 17½ ppi for towel body and 15 ppi for the hems. DIMENSIONS Width in the reed: 18". Woven length: (measured under tension on the loom) 87". Finished size: (after wet-finishing and hemming) three towels, 14½" × 21½" each. Shadow weave is one of my favorite weave structures, especially for four-shaft projects. The structure of a…

STRUCTURE Honeycomb. EQUIPMENT 8-shaft loom, 58" weaving width; 15-dent reed; 2 shuttles; 2 bobbins. YARNS Warp: 22/2 Organic Cottolin (60% cotton/40% linen; 3,000 yd/lb; Venne), #4007 Turquoise, 2,880 yd. Ripple (100% cotton; 1,100 yd/lb; Made in America Yarns), Natural, 576 yd. Weft: 22/2 Organic Cottolin, Turquoise, 2,300 yd; Ripple, Natural, 450 yd. Note: This throw was woven with Cotons Nature (100% cotton; 126 yd/50 g; Bergère de France), Stuc. This yarn is no longer available—Ripple is a comparable yarn. WARP LENGTH 864 ends 4 yd long (allows 10" for take-up, 32" for loom waste). SETTS Warp: 15 epi (1/dent in a 15-dent reed). Weft: 15 ppi. DIMENSIONS Width in the reed: 579/15". Woven length: (measured under tension on the loom) 102". Finished size: (after wet-finishing and hemming) 46" × 79".…

STRUCTURE Spot Bronson. EQUIPMENT 4-shaft loom, 13" weaving width; 10-dent reed; 1 shuttle; 1 bobbin. YARNS Warp: Prime Alpaca (100% alpaca; 1,320 yd/lb; Galler Yarns), #306 Nutmeg, 375 yd. Weft: Prime Alpaca, #314 Champagne, 275 yd. WARP LENGTH 125 ends 3 yd long (allows 7" for take-up, 29" for loom waste; loom waste includes fringe). Note: An 8 oz skein of Prime Alpaca contains enough yardage to warp 5 yards for two scarves with allowance for 12" of unwoven warp between the scarves for fringe. SETTS Warp: 10 epi (1/dent in a 10-dent reed). Weft: 10 ppi. DIMENSIONS Width in the reed: 125/10". Woven length:(measured under tension on the loom) 72". Finished size: (after wet-finishing) 10¾" × 64" plus 4" fringe. Weaving with deflection can be a bit like baking…

STRUCTURE Compound weave with deflected doubleweave. EQUIPMENT 8-shaft loom, 12" weaving width; 10-dent reed; 2 shuttles; 2 bobbins. YARNS Warp: 2/18 Superfine Merino (5,040 yd/lb; Jagger Spun), Vanilla, 423 yd; French Blue, 299 yd. Weft: 2/18 Superfine Merino, Vanilla, 175 yd; French Blue, 328 yd. WARP LENGTH 222 ends 3¼ yd long (includes floating selvedges; allows 7" for take-up, 35" for loom waste; loom waste includes fringe). SETTS Warp: 20 epi (2/dent in a 10-dent reed). Weft: 17 ppi in the deflected-doubleweave sections and 24 ppi in the twill/plain-weave sections. DIMENSIONS Width in the reed: 112/10". Woven length:(measured under tension on the loom) 75". Finished size: (after wet-finishing) 9" × 65" plus 6" fringe. This scarf is the result of me expanding my weaving repertoire in three ways. It started…

STRUCTURE Plain weave with supplemental warp and weft. EQUIPMENT 8-shaft loom, 8" weaving width; 15-dent reed; 2 shuttles; 2 bobbins; 9 hanging weights of about 3 oz each. YARNS Warp: Ground: Nature Spun fingering weight (100% wool; 310 yd/1.75 oz; Brown Sheep Company), #158 Fanciful Blue, 377 yd. Supplemental: Folio (65% superfine alpaca/35% rayon; 219 yd/1.75 oz; Berroco), #4501 Pearl, 108 yd. Weft: Ground: Nature Spun fingering weight, #158 Fanciful Blue, 195 yd. Supplemental: Folio, #4501 Pearl, 45 yd. WARP LENGTH 143 ends total. Ground: 116 ends 3¼ yd long (includes 8" for take up, 32" for loom waste; loom waste includes fringe). Supplemental: 27 ends 4 yd long. SETTS Warp: 15 epi (1 ground warp/dent in a 15-dent reed). Supplemental warp ends are sleyed in dents with adjacent ground…

Throughout many years of weaving and teaching, one of my favorite phrases has been “Stay on the trail.” Winding a warp, threading heddles, and following treadling sequences at the loom all require following a path of sorts. When we “deflect” off that trail—lose our place or run into an obstacle—sometimes it causes problems. However, often those deviations lead to more interesting places. In my case, they led to my journey with deflected doubleweave. Deflected doubleweave on eight shafts is nothing more than warp and weft floats connected with plain weave. Sampling is quite fun as you toggle between pattern blocks resulting in unique shapes. The possibilities seem endless. You can find many published examples of deflected doubleweave. One of my first aha moments was the possibility of weaving two traditional…

JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2022 Deep Stash We all have yarn stashes, but have we ever looked at them critically? What yarns should be in a stash? How should you care for a stash? Is there really such a thing as a stash-busting project? This issue will feature projects and articles that are all about using, expanding, or improving your stash, whether that means adding specialty art yarns or workhorse staples. MARCH/APRIL 2022 National Parks and Museums Being stuck at home for much of 2020 and some of 2021 made many of us long for travel. What park or museum did you miss the most? This issue will include projects that pay homage to national treasures both natural and man-made. MAY/JUNE 2022 Plain and Fancy Twills Some twills are so simple they can…

The loom, as it comes to us, is just a starting point. Any modifications made to the loom, other weaving tools, and the weaving process are reflections of the creative problem-solving skills and interest of the weaver. In 3-D Hand Loom Weaving, Sally Eyring offers a glimpse into her fascination with shaped weaving, her depth of knowledge of complex weave structures, and her propensity for pushing beyond the fundamental rules of weaving. This book begins by introducing new terminology and tools and challenges the notion that all weaving output should be rectangular. The author is clear that an understanding of the fundamental rules of weaving is essential, but innovation occurs when rules are broken. Two such rules center around tension and take-up. Eyring demonstrates that you can be in full…

Weaverly Earrings Show off your love of weaving with these made-to-order handcrafted earrings from Traditions in Cloth. The earrings come in a variety of weaving and fiber-related designs lovingly handpainted by artist (and weaver) Melvenea Hodges on lightweight wood. They are available as a matched set (both earrings the same) or as a coordinated pair with two different designs. Pair them with your favorite handwoven accessories or garments for the ultimate weave-centric outfit. traditionsincloth.bigcartel.com Hot Hem Ruler Hem straighter and more precisely with the Hot Hem Ruler by Madam-Sew. Grids on the ruler measure fabric folds, while the heat-resistant material allows you to press with the ruler in place for more accurate hemming and seaming. The ruler’s nonslip material prevents fabric from moving and sliding as you iron. The grid…

STRUCTURE Turned M’s and O’s. EQUIPMENT 4-shaft loom, 16" weaving width; 12-dent reed; 2 shuttles; 3 bobbins. YARNS Warp: Onyx runner: Nile (100% organic cotton; 2,100 yd/lb; Silk City Fibers), #360 Onyx, 419 yd; #061 Dark Taupe, 99 yd; #209 Siren, 90 yd. Weft: Onyx runner: Nile, #360 Onyx, 380 yd; #061 Dark Taupe and #209 Siren, 11 yd each. Black sewing thread for hems, 60 yd. Warp: Siren runner: Nile, #360 Onyx, 90 yd; #061 Dark Taupe, 99 yd; #209 Siren, 419 yd. Weft: Siren runner: Nile, #209 Siren, 380 yd; #061 Dark Taupe and #360 Onyx, 11 yd each. Red sewing thread for hems, 60 yd. Note: Weft yardages are approximate and are dependent on treadling and color choices during weaving. WARP LENGTH 272 ends 2¼ yd long…

STRUCTURE Honeycomb. EQUIPMENT 8-shaft loom, 10" weaving width; 12-dent reed; 3 shuttles; 3 bobbins. YARNS Warp: 8/2 Tencel (100% lyocell; 3,360 yd/lb; WEBS), Spice and Red Purple, 215 yd each. Bambu 7 Variegated (100% bamboo; 2,100 yd/lb; Cotton Clouds), #984 Blue Cloud or #647 River Bed, 156 yd. Weft: 8/2 Tencel, Spice and Red Purple, 212 yd each. Bambu 7, #984 Blue Cloud or #647 River Bed, 141 yd. Note: The scarf shown alternates two colors of Tencel in the weft, but you can choose to use only one of the Tencel colors for weft to simplify the weaving. Bambu 7 is a substitute for the 5/2 rayon that Annette used. That yarn is no longer available. OTHER SUPPLIES Mild no-rinse fabric detergent such as Soak; dye-trapping laundry sheets (optional).…

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STRUCTURE Deflected doubleweave. EQUIPMENT 8-shaft loom, 10" weaving width; 12-dent reed; 2 shuttles; 2 bobbins. YARNS Warp: 5/2 Tencel (prewound hand-dyed warp; 100% lyocell; 2,100 yd/lb; Blazing Shuttles), Iris, 414 yd. 20/2 tussah silk (5,000 yd/lb; Jane Stafford Textiles), Felicitations, 378 yd. Weft: 5/2 Tencel (100% lyocell; 2,100 yd/lb; Teresa Ruch Designs), Steel Blue, 232 yd. 20/2 tussah silk, Felicitations, 215 yd. OTHER SUPPLIES Mild no-rinse detergent, such as Soak; 12" of smooth cord about the weight of bulky yarn to use as a spacer. WARP LENGTH 176 ends (92 ends Tencel and 84 ends tussah silk) 4½ yd long (allows 7" for take-up, 79" for loom waste; loom waste includes fringe). Note: The warp length is set by the prewound warp. To wind your own Tencel warp, use 176…

I love Cheryl M. Maid’s suggestion in the September/October 2021 issue (Letters) about including readers’ weaving tips. Here are two of mine: First, use color-coded quilting clips (also known as sewing clips or wonder clips) to hold the heddles at the sides of the shafts. Second, use coded stick-on numbers on the shafts to match the quilting clips so you can see at a glance which shafts you have lifted. Thank you for a great magazine every time. —Karen Tayler, via email The May/June 2021 issue covering plaids and checks was very informative and on point for me. Because we live in Hawaii, it was especially nice to see palaka revisited. I made a blanket inspired by palaka fabric for my first grandchild. I enlarged the pattern and added a…

Many weavers (and even some nonweavers) can name at least a few textile-related historical events: the invention of Eli Whitney’s cotton gin or Jacquard’s mechanized loom, the progenitor of today’s computers. But how many know that textiles spurred the Neolithic Revolution in agriculture, that weaving developed in tandem with mathematics, that a silkworm disease set Louis Pasteur on the path to his great medical discoveries, and that a sixteenth-century English curate’s sock-knitting machine is inspiring the cutting-edge 3D printers of today? These stories, and many more, are spun with humor and wonder by award-winning journalist and scholar Virginia Postrel in The Fabric of Civilization: How Textiles Made the World. For any lover of history or textiles, for anyone blessed with a curious mind, this book is a romp through space…

STRUCTURE Deflected doubleweave. EQUIPMENT 4-shaft loom, 20" weaving width; 15-dent reed; 2 shuttles; 2 bobbins. YARNS Warp: 16/2 worsted-spun wool (4,400 yd/lb; Camilla Valley Farm), #TR-031 Wine and #TR-069 Dark Green, 864 yd each. Weft: 16/2 worsted-spun wool, #TR-031 Wine and #TR-069 Dark Green, 572 yd each. OTHER SUPPLIES Two 14" square pillow forms; two 9"–12" zippers in coordinating color; 30" length of thin, strong, slick cord (Angela recommends nylon); 20" needle or hook. WARP LENGTH 576 ends 3 yd long (allows 6" for sampling, 7" for take-up, 30" for loom waste). SETTS Warp: 30 epi (2/dent in a 15-dent reed). Weft: 30 ppi (not including temporary cord picks). DIMENSIONS Width in the reed: 193/15". Woven length: (measured under tension on the loom) 65". Finished size: (after wet-finishing) fabric 16"…

STRUCTURE Spot Bronson variation. EQUIPMENT 4-shaft loom, 26" weaving width; 12-dent reed; 2 shuttles; 2 bobbins. YARNS Warp: 18/3 linen (2,961 yd/lb; Gist Yarn), Arctic, 1,495 yd; Silver, 196 yd. Weft: 18/3 linen, Arctic, 1,030 yd; Silver, 93 yd. OTHER SUPPLIES Fray Check or fringe twister (optional). WARP LENGTH 455 ends (483 threads total) 3½ yd long (includes doubled floating selvedges; allows 7" for take-up, 26" for loom waste; loom waste includes fringe). SETTS Warp: 18 epi (1-2/dent in a 12-dent reed). Weft: 15 ppi. DIMENSIONS Width in the reed: 255/12". Woven length: (measured under tension on the loom) 93". Finished size: (after wet-finishing) 22" × 89" plus fringe. Jane Patrick’s Weaver’s Idea Book was my stalwart companion for the better part of a year while I developed a rigid-heddle…

STRUCTURE Integrated plain weave and basketweave. EQUIPMENT Rigid-heddle loom or 2 or 4-shaft loom, 8" weaving width; 8-dent heddle or reed; 2 stick or boat shuttles; 2 bobbins (if using boat shuttles). YARNS Warp: Fashion Arizona (100% cotton; 109 yd/50 g; Schachenmayr), #00080 Memphis Mix, 96 yd. Bamboo Pop (50% cotton/50% bamboo; 292 yd/100 g; Universal Yarn), #123 Fuchsia, 96 yd. Weft: Fashion Arizona, #00080 Memphis Mix, 68 yd. Bamboo Pop, #123 Fuchsia, 71 yd. WARP LENGTH Rigid heddle: 64 ends 96" long (allows 8" for take-up, 18" for loom waste; loom waste includes fringe). 2 or 4-shaft loom: 64 ends 3 yd long (allows 8" for take-up, 30" for loom waste; loom waste includes fringe). SETTS Warp: 8 epi. Weft:8 ppi. DIMENSIONS Width in the heddle or reed: 8".…

STRUCTURE Deflected doubleweave. EQUIPMENT 8-shaft loom, 13" weaving width; 8-dent reed; 2 shuttles; 2 bobbins. YARNS Warp: 2/14 Alpaca Silk (80% alpaca/20% silk; 3,472 yd/lb; Valley Yarns; WEBS), Fawn, 480 yd. 8/2 Tencel (100% lyocell; 3,360 yd/lb; Valley Yarns; WEBS), Shale and Dark Teal, 288 yd each; Grey Blue, 144 yd. Weft: 2/14 Alpaca Silk, Fawn, 262 yd. 8/2 Tencel, Dark Teal, 436 yd. WARP LENGTH 400 ends 3 yd long (allows 6" for take-up, 26" for loom waste; loom waste includes fringe). SETTS Warp: 32 epi (4/dent in an 8-dent reed). Weft: 24 ppi. DIMENSIONS Width in the reed: 124/8". Woven length:(measured under tension on the loom) about 76". Finished size: (after wet-finishing) 10½" × 73" plus 5" fringe. For this project, I was excited to try Marian Stubenitsky’s…

ARIZONA Fiber Creek Suite 123, 1046 Willow Creek Rd Prescott, AZ 86301 (928) 717-1774 fibercreekprescott.com Tempe Yarn & Fiber 1415 E University Dr Tempe, AZ 85281 (480) 557-9166 tempeyarn.com The Spinster 624 E Beale St Kingman, AZ 86401 (928) 753-3660 spinsterinkingman.com ARKANSAS Red Scottie Fibers 51 Eureka Springs St Eureka Springs, AR 72931 (479) 253-0711 redscottiefibers.com CALIFORNIA Alamitos Bay Yarn Company 174 N. Marina Dr Long Beach, CA 90803 (562) 799-8484 yarncompany.com Cardigans Yarn and Fiber 3030 State St Santa Barbara, CA 93105 (805) 569-0531 cardigansyarnandfiber.com Dharma Trading Co 1604 4th Street San Rafael, CA 94901 (435) 456–1211 dharmatrading.com Hands On Knitting Center 912 New York Street, Suite A Redlands, CA 92374 (909) 793-8712 www.handsonknittingcenter.com/ COLORADO Lambspun of Colorado 1101 E Lincoln Ave Fort Collins, CO 80524 (800) 558-5262 lambspun.com…