Table of contents for February 2023 in Getaway

If someone had asked me five years ago where I saw myself in my career today, I would never have thought that the answer would include being group editor of Getaway magazine. But here we are and I'm thrilled that this is where the crazy world of publishing has led me. It seems somewhat fortuitous that the issue for which I write this letter highlights Portugal in the main feature. You see, my great grandfather was Portuguese, born and raised in Madeira, before he decided to set off for South Africa. Here, he fell in love with a local lass and the rest, as they say, is history. Although I never knew him and I don't know the exact reason for him leaving the place of his birth, there is…

Run down and a bit seedy in the 1980s, Braamfontein's revival has been remarkable. It's blossomed into a desirable neighbourhood for all the right reasons. Once home to law firms and ad agencies, the Joburg suburb was a thriving hub of economic activity on the fringes of the inner city in the 1950s before suburban office parks and shopping malls changed the game and urban decay set in. Home to Wits University, Braam has always been a place for students, who generally don't mind - and quite often prefer - to frequent grimy bars and outof-the-way underground establishments. But some shiny new murals, a popular artisans market and a handful of focused entrepreneurs have together spawned an energetic resurgence of one of Jozi's original ‘hoods. Braamfontein now attracts people from…

Travel, it has been said, broadens the mind. But it also adds to carbon emissions and hence, climate change and rising global temperatures. And heat has a direct effect on your flight - the hotter the air, the more difficult it is for an aeroplane to get lift, and it needs lift to beat gravity. Lift is the atmosphere pushing the plane up, and planes get 1% less lift with every 3°C of temperature rise. If it's too hot, the plane needs to bump some weight: during a heatwave in London in 2018, more than a dozen flights left passengers on the ground so they could take off safely. But some airlines have initiatives to help build a more sustainable future, such as Etihad's Greenliner programme. It uses sustainable aviation…

1 My Bible I carry it with me all the time. 2 Whistle I think every hiker should carry one. If anything happens, I want to be able to whistle if I can't scream. 3 Gloves An obvious one but extremely necessary. So is biltong! But that always runs out pretty fast. 4 Vuvuzela It's my mascot. It just reminds me why I'm doing what I'm doing. It's full of little sayings or quotes that my family gave me, and it reminds me to be strong and courageous. 5 Garmin inReach To be able to communicate with my children because cellphones don't work up there.…

Roger Horrocks is an underwater cinematographer who worked on My Octopus Teacher, Our Planet and Blue Planet2, for which he won a Bafta for cinematography. Roger normally shoots with a RED Epic Dragon DSMC-2 and Nauticam Housing, with his complete setup worth about R1.6 million. The Dragon has an exceptional dynamic range for lowlight situations. ‘I just love that faeling of being in an underwater landscape,’ Roger says. ‘It feels like you're flying and you're very much in flow with no distractions.’ For beginners, Roger suggests getting a housing for your phone. ‘Start playing with that because it's amazing what the phones can do these days. ‘From there, look at getting an Olympus Tough and just work your way up.’…

MIXED MASALA I am a mixture, says chef Yuan Lee Sonny Khan, and ticks off his heritage: Pakistan, India and Zimbabwe, with a Chinese name. ‘People don't usually know what to expect.’ Expect outstanding food. Yuan is something of a magician in the kitchen. Born in Zimbabwe, he learnt to cook at his aunties’ knees: ‘My mother was one of 14 sisters and there were always family functions, so I grew up around a culture of cooking and food.’ It was honed at chef's school but, ‘they only teach you the basics. Whatever you want to pursue and however far you want to go, you have to do that yourself’. He is mostly self-taught, he says, born of a passion for flavours. He came to the bush after years on…

With 462 species of bird, 130 mammals and 64 reptiles calling the Okavango home, it can be tricky to identify precisely what you are looking at. Help is at hand, however, in the form of the fabulous Botswana Wildlife App. Download it to your phone and take it on safari with you, not just to Tsodilo or the Panhandle, but everywhere on your Botswana travels. Grant Reed, private safari guide, guide trainer, photographer, naturalist and founding director of Letaka Safaris and the African Guide Academy, has put his extensive knowledge and skill into creating this easy-to-use app. It will help you identify all the animals, birds, fish, reptiles, flowers and trees that you encounter on your safari. ‘When Covid-19 hit, I began the process of identifying and organising the 28…

David Henning WINE AND WHEELS (P 85) The things David despises most in the world are cyclists wearing spandex in coffee shops and SUVs holding up traffic outside a school when the sign clearly says ‘Stop and go’. For the sake of research - and learning acceptance - he climbed into an SUV and drove the gravel roads through the Klein Karoo before trying on some spandex and braving a sore bum to tackle the MTB trails of Plettenberg Bay. He may be seen in a spandex outfit again, but still needs to be convinced of the necessity of an SUV for the school run. Gillian Ritchie THE LONG WAY HOME (P 94) If she's not running (both after her children and up mountains), or jumping on her scooter to…

WHERE ON EARTH? Raising Awareness Sahika Ercümen, Turkish freediver and a member of the World Underwater Federation, dives amid plastic waste on the Ortakoy coastline in Istanbul to raise awareness of plastic pollution in the Bosphorus. Ercümen is a Life Below Water Advocate of the United Nations Development Programme. At least 14 million tonnes of plastic end up in the oceans every year, reports the IUCN, and plastic makes up 80% of all marine debris. It threatens ocean health, the health of marine species, food safety and quality, human health, coastal tourism, and contributes to climate change.…

People went more then a meal; they went en experience. South Africa's first Michelin-starred chef (there are now four of them), Jan Hendrik van der Westhuizen, knows what he's talking about. And then he goes on to deliver. His latest outing, JAN Franschhoek at La Motte Wine Estate, is a tiny space - it seats only 16 - at the old Veepos in the middle of La Motte's expansive lavender fields. For fans: it is the setting of his latest television show, Jan RSVP. It really is old; the date painted on the stark white exterior reads 1712. The evening begins at the La Motte manor house, from where you are ferried to the restaurant in a bright blue 1967 Volkswagen kombi, a “splity”. It's so old, there is not…

ART IN THE PARK Angus Taylor's Bearing Your Becoming looks over guests who linger near the piano; miniature works and sculptures by Norman Catherine dot the Metsi lounge, while the gin and whisky bar showcases the flamboyant Cole & Son Savuti wallpaper, a collaboration with The Ardmore Collection. The new ert at Molori Safari Lodge in Madikwe Game Reserve in North West comes with new-look interiors refurbished by South African interior design team Megan Hesse and Andrea Kleinloog of Hesse Kleinloog Studio. Works by headline artists were specially selected from the private Ichikowitz Heritage Art Collection, one of the largest of its kind, featuring South African and African artists dating from the 1950s. Recently added artworks at Molori include four Edoardo Villa sculptures; Deborah Bell's large-scale bronze Chariot is placed…

DESPATCHES | Food A few years ago, meat alternatives on restaurant menus were hard to find without asking for substitutions or omissions to dishes, and exclusively vegetarian or vegan restaurants were few and far between. Those days are almost in the rearview mirror as we speed past, and most restaurants now offer a decent selection of generally tasty vegetablefocused dishes. The number of exclusively plant-based restaurants has also grown exponentially. Chefs countrywide are pushing the traditional boundaries and exploring meat-free dining. WESTERN CAPE Plushi, Cape Town This online, zero-waste, vegan sushi restaurant experiments with vegan and Asian cuisine. It aims to find the best plant-based sushi and deliver it to your door. Look out for the monthly mystery roll featuring exciting flavour combinations. The eight-piece Zebra Roll should definitely be…

Sian Simba River Lodge Just 35km from Victoria Falls town, Sian Simba River Lodge is a newly built lodge in the Zambezi Drift stable. It is on the banks of the Zambezi River in the Zambezi National Park, with a rooftop patio and a partially covered patio, both looking out over the river, with a very welcome infinity pool overlooking it. The camp is fed by a borehole, and there is a water filtration system for drinking water. There are 12 comfortable and well-appointed en suite tents, six sleeping two as twins and six doubles; tents 6 and 7 are adjoining, to accommodate families with children. Activities on offer are game drives, game walks, island lunch (seasonal), fishing, boating, bush cooking and sunset cruising. There is an adjoining campsite (from…

GETTING THERE From Maun, take the main road through the Ngamiland District to Shakawe (370km). Tsodilo Hills is 40km (about a 90-minute drive) from Shakawe on a rough dirt road. Expect a total drive time of five to six hours. Alternatively, take a 90-minute flight from Maun or a one-hour flight from Kasane; there are several charter companies. From Namibia, use Muhembo Border Post, which is 16km from Shakawe and is open daily from 6am-6pm. Nxamaseri Island Lodge is 40km from Shakawe and 35km from Tsodilo Hills. GOOD THINGS TO KNOW BEFORE YOU GO FISHING IN THE PANHANDLE The Okavango Panhandle is one of the prime fishing destinations in Botswana. The deep and fast-flowing waters are ideal for anything from African pike to sleek catfish, as well as tilapia, bass,…

NO PLACE FOR THE SLEEPY THINK OF STELLENBOSCH AND SURROUNDS AND YOUR FIRST THOUGHTS WILL NO DOUBT BE OF TRANQUIL WINE FARMS, TREELINED STREETS AND LAIDBACK STUDENTS. BUT THIS IS NO PLACE FOR THE LAZY, AS ALAN VALKENBURG DISCOVERED Study at Stellenbosch University and you'll become well versed in the usual spots pretty quickly - the Botanical Garden, the trail behind the Danie Craven rugby stadium leading to Ertjieskloof Dam, the Rooiplein. But if you're one for leaving the crowds behind, there are other spots and sights just a little ways further, and they're well worth exploring, too. To get to some of these lesser-known spots, we called in the experts, accepting the help of the Stellenbosch Adventure Shop, which kindly supplied us with a guide and some bicycles for…

The Tsitsikamma Village Inn, a magical country hotel in the quaint village of Storms River, has hosted travellers since 1841. A privately owned and managed country hotel, it has 49 village-style rooms, each cottage individually decorated to match its specific colonial building style. The mam building has a spacious dining room, incorporating the De Oude Martha Restaurant, Hunters Pub, Cafe Bacchus and Guest Lounge. Travel back in time at the restaurant, Marilyn's 60s Diner, which pays tribute to Monroe and Elvis Presley with its collection of memorabilia and menu to match. Next door, at Tsitsikamma Microbrewery, there is a wide selection of ales and craft beers. Close to the Tsitsikamma National Park, the hotel is a perfect base to explore the natural beauty and activities of the Tsitsikamma. From R925…

The LSE version of Isuzu's new 4x4 D-Max is a great balance between affordability and style The seventh generation, locally built D-Max double cab launched in April last year and at the top of the tree was the all-singing, alldancing V-Cross model. Packed with every desirable bell and whistle for the lifestyle conscious, it's nevertheless not everyone's first pick. For some, the LSE hits the sweet spot - it has most of the V-Cross's kit and the same 3.0-litre turbo-diesel engine, but comes in at a handier price. Instead of V-Cross’ fender blisters and skid plate it has a more subtle appearance. Inside, like all new D-Max variants, the feel is light years away from the previous model. Ergonomic seats, premium new materials and a large infotainment screen mean it…

I'm a mountaineer. I'm a mother. I'm now an entrepreneur. I recently took early retirement from corporate and I'm an executive coach. I wrote a book, so I'm an author, too. It's called My Journey to the Top of the World.. .And the Lessons I Learnt Along the Way. It's a memoir about who I am: one of seven girls raised by a single mother; somebody who grew up believing I'm just an ordinary person. Even when I started climbing, I was just an ordinary African woman trying to reach extraordinary heights. I initially started climbing as abucket list thing, that's why I say I'm an accidental mountaineer. I climbed to raise money for a home that looks after street children. In the process, one of them reminded me of…

BRIEFS Gear FOLLOW US NEED MORE TRAVEL INSPO? getaway.co.za @GetawayMagazine 1| GoPro Hero11 Black R9 995, ormsdirect.co.za GoPro updates its flagship Hero Black action camera annually, with this year's Hero'll Black the third version to use the current body style, but with plenty of changes inside. Its 27MP sensor is nearly square so you can pull out vertical or horizontal frames from the same clips, and the camera now supports horizon levelling without the need for an add-on lens (incredibly, this keeps your footage straight even if your camera rotates a full 360°). Other features include 5.3K60 and 4K120 video, 8x slo-mo video recording and it's waterproof up to 10m. 2 | Pentax Ricoh WG-6 R7 099, cameraland.co.za The rugged Ricoh WG-6can really take a beating - it's shockproof from…

DESPATCHES | Sian Simba ‘The weather on the ground is hot. Hot, sunny, dry and dusty. I hope you remembered your sunscreen.’ These were not the words I expected at 30 000-odd feet. Victoria Falls, as I understood it, was a lot of water - about 625 million litres per minute - falling over a cliff 885m into the abyss, the rainforest around it constantly wet. A rainforest, you hear, constantly wet from the spray. But the captain was right. Stepping off the plane onto the melting tarmac was just that - relentlessly hot and dry, the sun frying everything under it. It was, I admit, a little disappointing. The drive into town with Alek Zulu, Sian Simba's head guide, did not lift my spirits. On each side of the…

TRAVEL Portugal What is the digital nomad dream exactly? I used to think it was working from your laptop, in a hammock alongside a pool, for just a few hours a day (or, according to Tim Ferriss, just four hours a week). You may know people who live like this. Although maybe you've unfollowed them after one-too-many social media posts saying ‘Office for the day’. I have my own dreams of a life like this. The Wi-Fi is as strong as the mojitos, every day involves a skinny dip or scooter adventure, and I make money in my sleep. South East Asia, with its affordable lifestyle and palm-lined beaches, is always where my mind seems to drift. Yet, since Covid came along, it has been Portugal that's risen to the…

If you want to really mess with your tastebuds, and we mean really mess them up, try the chilli oil milkshake at the Chilli Oil Taste Kitchen at Banhoek. We're not sure whether to recommend it or not, such was the mix of emotions it conjured. The first sip is met with cool satisfaction. Then the chilli kicks and you reach for the nearest thing to cool your tongue… the milkshake. Another sip brings only a second of relief before the chilli kicks you again like a disgruntled horse. Repeat the process until the (tall) glass is empty. The food is beautifully paired with the Banhoek chilli oil and I really enjoyed my meal. But that milkshake… I can't decide whether it was terrible or amazing. 021 300 0795 banhoekchillioil.co.za…

@ HAVE A ROAD TRIP STORY WORTH SHARING? Send it to us, and you could be published in Getaway. If we decide to publish, you'll be able to leave the mag on your coffee table, open on that page - accidentally of course - when friends and family come round to visit. Your story should be no longer than 1 500 words and include details and prices about the places you stayed, ate at, and visited. Accompanying high-quality, high res photographs are a must, too. Email your stories to alan.valkenburg@habarimedia.com. Getaway reserves the right to edit your copy. Check In FIGBERRY GUESTROOMS In Bloemfontein, we booked the Kylie, which sleeps four. From R1 150 for a foursleeper room pn 082 821 2462 figberry.co.za RIVER BEND SELF-CATERING COTTAGES In Graaff-Reinet, we…

OLD THOMAS RIVER HISTORICAL VILLAGE Halfway between Stutterheim and Cathcart there's an old station that dates back to the 1870s. It's been carefully restored - along with the surrounding buildings - and now houses small museums (Including vintage cars), a restaurant and if you're wanting to overnight here, there are accommodation options, too. oldthomasriver.co.za STUTTERHEIN ENGINE MUSEUM Travellers with an interest in mechanics will appreciate a strip in at the Stutterheim Engine Museum, the biggest stationary engine museum in the country. It's not always open, so check on the Facebook page for events and contact details. Sutterheim Engine Museum FERNDALE 4×4 With names including Diff Lock Alley, Adrenalin Hill and Wild Ride, you can be sure Ferndale's 4x4 trails (near Cathcart) are something to look forward to. Great birding, beautiful mountain…

Scan the QR code with your phone or fill in the entry form for Gorah Elephant Camp online at getaway.co.za/competitions Entries close on 28 February 2023. THE PRIZE One lucky Getaway reader will win a two-night stay for two in a luxury tented suite at Gorah Elephant Camp, including all meals, beverages, two game drives daily, walks and a visit to the meerkat colony. TERMS AND CONDITIONS Reservations are essential and subject to availability. The prize is valid until 31 October 2023, excluding the Easter weekend (6-10 April 2023). The prize is not transferable nor redeemable for cash. Not included in the prize are park entrance fees, tourism levies, extra drinks and items of a personal nature.…