‘Theyʼre coming to us,ʼ said Emmanuel Ahishakiye, his voice a whisper.
This was surprising news. We were geared up and psyched to climb the steep, forested slopes of Sabyinyo volcano to find mountain gorillas, a trek that might have lasted anywhere between 30 minutes and a couple of hours. But, just a few minutes into the forest, the gorillas were saving us all the trouble. ʻThe gorillas are always moving, always searching for food,ʼ explained Emmanuel, the lead guide on the trek.
We heard them before we saw them, the sound of snapping branches announcing their arrival. I spotted a female among the bushes, and an infant, both obscured by leaves.
And then the rest emerged, one by one, sauntering along the trail, occasionally stopping to eat and to let…