Table of contents for March 2018 in Getaway

Lately, there’ve been a couple of assaults on Cape Town’s status as the world’s top destination for tourists. People are watching with heightening interest and not an insignificant amount of glee (I see you, Twitter) for Day Zero to hit. But in the back of their minds, they also must be wondering whether this is a sign of things to come for them, too. Cape Town’s not alone in this predicament. Many Free State towns have had their taps run dry in the past two years. São Paulo is facing this exact situation, and its population is about 12 million, three times bigger than broader Cape Town. Some Twitter rumbles have suggested that so much is being made about CT in the news because it’s a white middle-class problem. There…

Whenever I travel I like to read things about the place. I don’t mean travel guides or lists of 10 things you should do. I mean writing written by writers that gives a taste of the place, an evocation, an angle. Not many writers have written about Dubai, since Dubai is younger than most writers, but I did find an essay by George Saunders. George was a guest at the Burj Al Arab, then the tallest hotel in the world but nowadays only fourth, two of the other three also being in Dubai. The Burj is still the most famous, though. It’s the one you see in every shot of Dubai, the one shaped like a yacht in full sail, with a helipad where Roger Federer and Andre Agassi once…

Three ziplining tickets with Cape Canopy Tours worth R3 000 I always wanted to do a zipline tour! So this will be an amazing dream come true. – Marianne Gouws Two-night stay for two at Pezulu Tree House Lodge worth R8 000! Looking forward to the best holiday ever of relaxing in the tranquil bush! – Kenny Williamson Bontrager Ion 800 R and Flare R cycling lights worth R2 548 These are such useful safety gadgets for late-night rides through the mountains. We are planning a trip to iMfolozi soon! – Renuka Lallbahadur 22L Rogue Canvas Cooler worth R1 790 Wow! This is an incredible prize. Thank you Getaway and Rogue. – Brian Tapson See page 99 for the gear prize this month…

WHAT Homestay with the Nkosis WHERE Hluhluwe-iMfolozi Game Reserve WHO Photographer Teagan Cunniffe ‘I think my bag is too big,’ my friend Ashley worries as we walk to the tin-roofed rondavels. It’s her first time doing a homestay, and she’s unsure of what to expect. A last curve of the gravel road deposits us at the Nkosis’ front gate. We’re on the edge of the escarpment with only green, bushy valley and mountain ahead: it’s a location that surpasses many in the reserve itself. Nunu Jobe, walking guide at Rhino Ridge and initiator of the homestay experience, calls into the empty yard to announce our arrival. A line of women and girls dance into sight, singing a welcome. The effect is overwhelming and unexpected tears prick our eyes. Mama Nkosi…

James Ndlovu of Kitchener’s, Joburg As a child I enjoyed helping my mom in the kitchen. I also liked braaiing outside with the men. So I always knew that being a chef was for me. I grew up in Bulawayo in Zim and fondly remember the wide-open spaces. I prefer a bush holiday. I switch off from work and relax to the sounds of the bush. I usually go to Victoria Falls – I love the scenic walks there. That was also where I had my most memorable meal, with my wife and kids: lamb shank, roasted veg and potatoes. The highlight of a holiday is enjoying great food with great company. My ultimate holiday food is the classic chisa nyama style. Nothing beats a braai with pap and homemade…

‘Curiosity may have killed the cat, but it’s about to scare the hell out of the dog.’ I once saw that caption beneath an image of a toddler seconds away from putting its outstretched finger into the bottom of an unsuspecting staffie. It’s a boorish gag, but it made me laugh to the point where no sound came out and I just sat there with a contorted face, clapping like a seal. At any rate, I’ve never forgotten it and, for some reason, it popped into my head after a recent assignment. See, for every beaten track there are hundreds less beaten. At Getaway, those tracks are our bread and butter. We’ll tell you in earnest that we travel them to find the best new places for you, but really…

The DJI Mavic Air drone is super portable – half the size of a Mavic Pro, 41 per cent lighter and roughly the dimensions of a large smartphone. Flight time is 21 minutes, the camera offers 18mp stills, shoots 4K video at 30fps, and 1 080p at 120 fps for slo-mo. Regular features such as active track are still there, plus new HDR mode and sphere panoramas. R15 700, ormsdirect.co.za  Previously restricted to just underwater imagery, the Sodwana Bay Festival photographic competition (26 April – 1 May) now encompasses more of the iSimangaliso Wetland Park, not only the ocean – meaning you can snap anything from turtles to seascapes to birdlife. For more details, visit sodwanabayfestival.co.za. Don’t miss our Gallery competition this year. Keep sending in your beautiful…

FALKE ARM PROTECTORS R225, falke.co.za These top-of-the-range arm protectors give great coverage and are also quite stylish, if hiker-chic is your thing. Arm movement is easy and elasticated ends add to their snugness. I was surprised how cool (as in not hot and sweaty), unrestricted and comfortable I felt in them. They are made of Drynamix yarn, designed to move moisture away from your skin for a cooling effect. These protectors also have a reflective print to provide visibility and come in two sizes. UPF stands for Ultraviolet Protection Factor, originally standardised in Australia in 1996 (as opposed to SPF, or Sun Protection Factor, used in sunscreen). UPF measures the amount of the sun’s ultraviolet rays penetrating fabric. For example, a shirt with UPF 50 allows just…

'TO DRIVE IN INDIA YOU NEED THREE THINGS,' said our driver as he weaved, dodged and hooted his way through the Mumbai traffic. ‘Number one: good horn. Number two: good brake. Number three: good luck.’ It’s probably not the first time he’s used that line but I laughed nonetheless because the incessant honking of horns was the soundtrack to my quick stopover in this capital of over 20 million people. In 36 hours I experienced unadulterated silence only once, on waking at 4am to witness the city come to life. On the way to our hotel we pass the 27-storey home of Mumbai’s richest man, urban cricket pitches and a turreted coppery facade that might be mistaken for a Bollywood film set but is, in fact, a temporary wedding venue…

THE INSIDER Mia Louw is a born-and-bred Lowvelder. She recently moved back to her hometown, Nelspruit, after a stint in the Eastern Cape. Growing up, she spent many Saturdays in nearby White River, playing sport or browsing the art galleries with her mom. From the deck of our bush cottage overlooking the Plaston Valley, I spot a brightly coloured turaco flapping noisily from branch to branch. The early morning light is watery green as it filters through the dense canopy – home to bushbabies, who less than an hour earlier had enjoyed a quick scramble on the roof. Not an unwelcome wake-up call. I reach for a cup of coffee as I slowly soak up the day and recharge in the soft sunlight – much like the pale geckos that…

18 PICNIC SPOTS We personally test-drove these spots for you, which are all in locations perfect for an easy day’s outing. The one on the right is my pick (page 62). MOZAMBIQUE It’s beautiful, it’s affordable and it has lovely warm weather and water, exactly what you’ll be looking for this winter. Why not try an island-hopping dhow safari? Melanie van Zyl adored it (page 72). TRAIN JOURNEYS If the descriptions of these short train trips don’t make you want to book a ticket with your people, I’m not sure what will (page 84). FOOD In fact, you won’t find food in this issue. But it’ll be back next month. THE GOOD-VALUE STAR Each issue of Getaway has several inexpensive accommodation options for under R550 pp (some for less) that…

In 1990, Australian Tim Macartney-Snape became the first person to walk and climb from sea level (Bay of Bengal) to the highest altitude on Earth (Mount Everest). His journey inspired him to establish Sea to Summit, a company that focuses on light, top-quality outdoor gear. Its ethos is to start at ‘sea level’ and build something great, leaving no detail untouched. This approach applies to the company’s latest cookware, the Alpha Pot Compact Cook System. Weighing just 1,2kg, the set includes two pots, four mugs, four mug holders, four bowls and a dishcloth, which all fit inside the biggest 3,7L pot – the way it all nests together is kind of beautiful. Features include: pot handles that pivot horizontally and lock behind their lid handle – easy to pack; lids…

Party in the streets ‘Mother Nature, Mother City’ is the theme for this year’s Cape Town Carnival, inspired by the fynbos unique to this part of the world, as well as the diversity of cultures that have made a home here. More than 2 000 colourful costumed performers and musicians, alongside giant puppets, create the parade on the Fan Walk (from 7pm); fantastical floats will include the ‘tree of life’, a 6m-high Mother Earth and a 5.5-metre moving butterfly. There will also be Carnival Villages this year, offering food, drink and entertainment before and after the main event. Bring your mask or paint your face and join the revelry. Free, unless you want a seat (R300 pp, quicket.co.za ). 17 March. capetowncarnival.com…

Shem says… Most photographers take along only their wide-angle lenses for photographing this famous landscape. The wind was blowing strongly from the east, so I told my clients to bring their 400mm lenses with them. It’s a big ask, to lug these heavy lenses a long way through the desert sand to get to Deadvlei. But as the sun hit the dunes and the wind blew the sand up into the air, we all said our collective thank-yous for the extra length of our lenses. shemimages.com Equipment Nikon D800E, Nikkor 200-400mm f/4, ISO 400, f/8, 1/1000 sec SHEM’S TIP The strongest leading lines are when the lines make an S-curve, or two lines lead towards each other as in this photo. Take it yourself Leading…

Klipfish is the second-most diverse species found in South Africa’s coastal waters. Their breathtakingly beautiful eyes always grab my attention first. Only once I was submerged in the ocean, I truly learned the beauty of sunlight. Shooting super-macro in surgey waters is challenging, but it reveals detail not seen with the naked eye – such as the complex eye design and gas-flame-blue hairs on the antennae of a pink hermit crab. ABOUT THE PHOTOGRAPHER His undying love for the sea is the inspirational force behind Geo Cloete’s work. Passionately and artistically crafted, his images create a greater awareness of the ocean and its marvellous creatures. His work has been bought by collectors around the world, received numerous awards and Geo has been made a Mission Blue partner.…

ACE OF SPADES R199, campmaster.co.za Fully extended, this Folding Shovel is 584mm long but can fold down to just 254mm. It locks into open position during use and even has saw edges for easy cutting. Handy to take on camping trips and for using in the garden. The shovel has a durable hard coating and comes with a one-year warranty. A MIXED BAG R250, capeunionmart.co.za Like its duffel bag, K-Way’s Foldable Backpack doubles over into itself for easy packing. It’s ideal for camping, hiking and day walks as it’s made from ripstop nylon, making it ultra-durable as well as water-resistant. This 20L backpack has one main compartment in the front, mesh backstraps, two mesh bottle-holders on either side, and a carry handle at the…

13... That’s how many places there are to sleep outdoors in the Kruger National Park – for humans, at least. We travelled the length and breadth of the park to inspect, rate and stay at the very best campsites in this bushveld paradise. We know where to book for the best game spotting, the shadiest sites and the off-grid places where you can truly retreat from the world. Read about it in the next issue of Getaway .…

Jubilee Creek in the Knysna Forest. It can hardly get better than that. Just keep the kids within sight. – Lisa Mary Narramore Woodville Big Tree at Hoekwil [Wilderness]. There are picnic tables in the forest and each one is totally private. Include the circular walk through the forest, about 40 minutes. – Su Carter Rietvlei Zoo Farm near Mall of the South Mall [Alberton]. – Zaheerah Loonat Patel Maselspoort Resort near Bloemfontein. – Ursula Lorraine The Forever Resort in Plettenberg Bay, near the mouth of the Keurbooms River. – Mawande Yengwa Budmarsh Country Lodge in Magaliesberg is beautiful. – Chantelle Le Roux [In Cape Town] Kirstenbosch, Windmill Beach and the top of Table Mountain. Also Kraalbaai near Langebaan. – Marie-Louise Kellett Boschendal [near Franschhoek] has a fully serviced picnic…

‘We want people to have some armchair travel – close their eyes, savour the food and use their imagination to be somewhere else,’ says Peter Weetman, owner of Societi Bistro in Cape Town. He’s referring to an ambitious plan, to present 21 global menus over the next five months. Diners can taste the Caribbean (spicy citrus chicken) or Cambodia (lime-marinated beef salad), Louisiana ( ‘smothered’ chicken and prawn etouffee), China (twice-cooked pork) or Japan (pork belly teriyaki), with stops in North Africa, the Mediterranean and France. The food choice changes every four days, so only diners who visit regularly will enjoy the full journey. ‘When people travel, they say they would much rather eat like the locals. These menus are what the locals eat,’ says Peter, referring to the style…

LOCAL CUISINE ‘Mykonos Taverna helps me get my Greek food fix. On the last Saturday of the month there’s dancing and plate breaking included!’ 343 Main Road, 021-439-2106. ‘The newly opened Nonna Lina is also one of my favourites. All their pizzas are delicious, and I love the classic tomatello pasta or the artichoke salad.’ 148 Main Road, 060-612-3520 SOCIAL SCENE ‘ Jerry’s, famous for its burgers, also has a really vibey bar which locals love going to for a drink.’ 148 Main Road, 021-433-1700. ‘The Sea Point promenade is very popular. It’s especially beautiful early in the morning or as the sun sets.’ CO-OWNER OF THE DAIRY DEN Sisters Tasia and Lexi opened their ice-cream parlour in October last year, following in the footsteps of their grandfather, Andreas Spheris,…

HOW TripAdvisor lists accommodation rated by guests, but as much as we love peer reviews, they don’t offer a comparative voice – so how do we know Number 1 is really the best? Pippa de Bruyn, who has reviewed accommodation for 18 years for the likes of Frommer’s and The Telegraph , scours TripAdvisor and other online sites when researching a destination. For Swakopmund, she created a longlist of 32 to inspect. The following made the cut. WHAT ARE YOU LOOKING FOR? WHAT I FOUND ABOUT ACCOMMODATION HERE • Excellent stock, and great variety too. There are plenty of hotels, B&Bs and guest houses but surprisingly few good self-catering options (although I did…

1 Werkswinkel Bar at the Tankwa Padstal. It’s become somewhat of an institution, and a Tankwa Karoo road trip just seems incomplete without a stop here. Drinks are cold and smiles are wide. It’s also your last stop for snacks for some time. hlange@breede.co.za 2 Die Mond Campsite, Tankwa. You’ll find well-shaded sites with braai facilities on the banks of a small lake at this little pocket of green in the desert. Camping from R70 pp. 023-317-0668 3 Lekkerbekkie, Wupperthal. It’s taken me more than four visits to Wupperthal to find this little gem (it’s hiding around the back of town). Browse the walls for a short history of Wupperthal’s roots as a mission station and grab a hot toasted sandwich (from R20) and a cold drink. Open Monday to…

GAUTENG 1 WALTER SISULU NATIONAL BOTANICAL GARDEN, ROODEPOORT The sound of the splashing waterfall in the background as you lie back on your blanket, looking up at luscious indigenous vegetation, is why this well-maintained garden is a favourite for a picnic. And if you feel like a stroll you’ll be spoilt with the diversity of flora – from ferns, wildflowers and woodland to succulents, cycads and clivias. There’s also a 3,5-kilometre hiking trail, which you could do before your picnic. Bring binoculars to spot the two black eagles – the pair nests in this urban area and were here before the garden was established. There are no bins provided – this is part of an ecofriendly initiative to encourage visitors to leave behind only their footprints, so bring a refuse…