Table of contents for March 2018 in delicious

SOME THINGS NEVER GO out of style, and one thing we find ourselves always looking for at delicious. , no matter the season, is quick meals prepared well. Anything that saves time has developed a currency of its own in the age of ‘busyness’ – a modern epidemic. Welcome to our annual ‘Fast Food Issue’, and when I say fast food, I refer, of course, to the speed of preparation and not the franchise variety. The challenge with cooking and preparing at speed – an oft-necessary factor for those with hectic lives – is how to develop intense flavour. The food team has risen to the challenge to find shortcuts and hacks (a word that is a modern phenomenon in itself) that deliver results that still taste amazing. ROI (return…

“PEOPLE JUST SEEM MORE INTERESTED IN THE FACT THAT WE ARE HERE NOW!” WHEN DOMINIQUE CRENN – the eloquent French-born chef behind San Francisco’s Atelier Crenn – won the World’s 50 Best ‘Best Female Chef’ in 2016, she considered rejecting the accolade. In the end, she accepted it, but declared: “I hope the award won’t exist in two years.” Two years on and, despite statistics from Parabere Forum, a platform devoted to women’s voices on major food issues, that only 18 per cent of head chef positions worldwide are held by women, the dialogue about the changing landscape of the industry has reached a crescendo as the need for gender equality, a positive energy shift and better work-life balance for all involved boil out of the pot and onto the…

NOODLES ARE ONE of my favourite ingredients. They’re just so versatile: you can fry them, have them in soups, toss them through salads, or even steam them, like you would have at yum cha. Here, I’ve used them to create a quick and easy stir-fry that’s perfect as a midweek dinner. Japchae is a Korean dish, and its name means ‘mixture of vegetables’ – which describes both the dish and the method in which it’s prepared. To create japchae, glass noodles made from sweet potato starch are stir-fried in sesame oil with beef and thinly sliced vegetables, then seasoned with soy sauce and a touch of sugar. I stumbled on the dish years ago in Korea Town in New York, at a (now defunct) place called Kristalbelli. I remember how…

WE LIVE OUR LIVES tied to an invisible bungee cord; no matter how hard we run towards the future, there is a constant pressure pulling us back to the past. And even worse, it seems we love it. Look at the current success of TV shows like Stranger Things or Riverdale , which are loaded with retro references. Look at music’s long-running desire to sample the hits of the past to make the hits of today, whether it’s Ray Charles’ ‘I Got A Woman’ popping up in Kanye’s ‘Gold Digger’, or Deadmau5 sampling Chopin. Look, too, at fashion, which seeks to reinvent everything from ’80s shoulder pads to the LBD – constantly. Food is no different. Chefs constantly seek inspiration in the past, and food websites are bombarded with requests…

“THERE IS A CERTAIN SMUGNESS THAT COMES FROM THROWING TOGETHER MID-WEEK DINNERS USING TINS AND JARS IN THE PANTRY. RIGHT NOW, I’M CRAVING CREAMY POLENTA AND GARLIC-AND-BUTTER-SLICKED BEANS, JUST THE KIND OF STAPLES I ALWAYS HAVE READY TO GO IN THE CUPBOARD.” CURRANT & CORIANDER LAMB CUTLETS WITH TAHINI BEETROOT SERVES 4 3 x 450g cans beetroot wedges, drained 31/2 tsp cumin seeds, toasted 1/4 cup (70g) tahini 2 tbs currants 2 tsp coriander seeds, toasted Pinch dried chilli flakes 1 tsp sesame seeds, toasted 12 Frenched lamb cutlets (ask your butcher to do this) 21/2 tbs extra virgin olive oil Juice of1/2 a lemon 2 zucchini, thinly sliced Coriander sprigs, to serve Place beetroot, 11/2 tsp cumin seeds and tahini in a blender and whiz until smooth. Transfer…

stand and deliver From the latest range of Smeg appliances comes this deceptively powerful ’50s-style stand mixer. With an array of optional accessories, you can easily create everything from healthy meals to decadent desserts from scratch. Visit: smeg50style.com.au sweet nothings CSR Unrefined Coconut Sugar is harvested using traditional methods. By doing so, the nutrients naturally found in the nectar of the coconut blossom are retained, including essential minerals such as zinc, calcium and iron. Visit: csrsugar.com.au gut feeling Discover the joy of fermenting at home with a little help from the Kuvings Fermenting Machine. Create home-made yoghurts, cheeses and pickles minus the chemicals or additives. Your gut and your family will thank you for it. Visit: kuvings.com.au cracking mayo The finest ingredients combine with a traditional recipe to create Birch…

#MAKEITDELICIOUS PHOTO OF THE MONTH Here’s our spin on @chefbennett23’s amazing baked white chocolate and raspberry cheesecake (Shannon Bennett, November 17, p 103). Delicious! @homeandgrain FEELING PEACHY: Thank you for the new cookbook, delicious. daily, which I received when I renewed my subscription. Needing some inspiration for a family dinner after purchasing a $10 tray of peaches, the peach tart with caramelised passionfruit honey was a huge hit – who would have thought pastry could be so easy? Wendy Hewitt PARTY ON: Hooray to Matt Preston’s liberating nod to having a Christmas party for one (Why Matt Preston doesn’t like parties, delicious.com.au). At one of the most awkward occasions for us singletons, his article was the best Christmas card I read. It’s okay to feel like you want to up…

BORLOTTI & GREEN BEAN SALAD SERVES 6 AS A SIDE 250g fresh shelled borlotti beans (substitute 250g dried borlotti beans, soaked overnight, drained) 1/2 onion, peeled, halved 1/2 carrot, halved 1 celery stalk, trimmed, halved 1 bay leaf 100ml extra virgin olive oil 500g green beans, trimmed 16 white anchovy fillets in oil, drained 3/4 cup (60g) shaved parmesan Mint leaves, to serve ESCHALOT & RED WINE VINEGAR DRESSING 1/4 eschalot, finely chopped 1/4 cup (60ml) red wine vinegar 1/2 tsp Dijon mustard 100ml extra virgin olive oil Place borlotti beans in a saucepan and cover with 4cm cold water. Add onion, carrot, celery, bay leaf, oil and 11/2 tbs salt flakes, and place over high heat. Bring to the boil, then reduce to a simmer and cook for 30-45…

AS A CHEF , you’re taught to respect the most humble of ingredients and that there’s no such thing as food waste – just wasted food. The best way to respect ingredients and pay homage to the farmers who grow them is to use everything, as in this recipe for chilled cucumber soup. Peel 1 Lebanese cucumber into long strips, reserving peel. Chop flesh and chill peel until needed. To make the chilled soup, in a blender, whiz cucumber flesh with 1 cup Greek yoghurt,1/2 small avocado, 1 tbs apple cider vinegar, finely grated zest of 1 lemon and juice of1/2 a lemon,1/2 clove finely chopped garlic, 2 chopped spring onions,1/4 tsp finely chopped chilli, 2 tbs finely chopped parsley, 1 tbs chopped tarragon and 2 tbs extra virgin olive…

FOR CELEBRATIONS: TORZI MATTHEWS VIGNA CANTINA PROSECCO NV, $25 Prosecco is the fun side of sparkling and, in Australia, increasingly produced with higher quality in mind. This example shows bright, clean, citrus and tropical fruitiness with a hint of nutty savouriness. ALL-PURPOSE WHITE: RAVENSWORTH PINOT GRIS 2017, $28 A bit of skin contact, as here, means you get a rosy hue to the wine and it sits in style somewhere between refreshing white and dry rosé. Delicious! With that in mind, this style goes across a lot of drinking occasions. TOP SHELF: CLONAKILLA HILLTOPS SHIRAZ 2016, $27 Clonakilla is one of Australia’s premier wineries, with an almost cult-like following. Hilltops is their ‘entry level’, but has all the pedigree and winemaking nous of their…

CHICKEN TWISTIES. It’s all I can think about while on course three of eight at perhaps Australia’s most famous restaurant, Tetsuya’s. It’s Tetsuya Wakuda’s signature dish. Confit of ocean trout with a salad of apple and witlof, and a quenelle of roe, but the dried kombu (salted kelp), chives and sea salt rub on top of the fish is just too distracting. Other food scribes have called it chicken-in-a-biscuit and barbecue shapes, but I’m making the call – it tastes like chicken Twisties. Either way, it’s all a little odd, don’t you think? Tetsuya’s signature is touted as the world’s most photographed dish, making it nigh impossible to take off the menu. But one can hardly blame Instagram; the dish well pre-dates its emergence. It’s a shame, because it’s tired.…

When the stylish siblings behind fashion label Ginger & Smart, Alexandra and Genevieve Smart, first set eyes on Nour Restaurant in Sydney, they couldn’t believe its resemblance to their own boutiques. “We came here for lunch one day and the design similarities with our business were really striking,” says Alexandra of the Surry Hills eatery, which opened in late 2016. “Between the rose gold, terrazzo and marble, and the influence of nature, it’s all very us,” adds Genevieve. Then they sampled the adventurous Middle Eastern menu and were hooked. So it was fitting that the Smart sisters, who recently celebrated a decade in the industry, would host a lunch at Nour to toast their latest collection. Gathered around the table were actress Danielle Cormack, photographer Ian Butterworth, artist Rachel Castle,…

“VEGOS CAN HAVE ALL THE FUN! I’VE APPEASED CARNIVORES WITH MY MEAT-INSPIRED VEGETARIAN PIZZAS. THESE NOURISHING TOPPINGS WILL RIVAL THE STANDARD MEAT OPTIONS AND EVEN PRE-EMPT A CRAVING FOR CAULIFLOWER ‘FINCE’ (AKA FAKE MINCE).” “I’VE COVERED ALL THE BASES, FROM FAST FLATBREADS AND QUICK FOOD-PROCESSOR DOUGHS TO TRADITIONAL OVERNIGHT CRUSTS, MAKING FOR SOME FAST PIZZA SOLUTIONS.” THE 15-MINUTE GARLICKY EGGPLANT PIZZAS SERVES 4-6 500g eggplant, cut into 3cm pieces 1/2 cup (125ml) olive oil, plus extra to serve 4 garlic cloves, finely grated 1 bunch garlic chives (substitute chives), finely chopped 1/2 cup (140g) tomato paste 4 Lebanese flatbreads 2 tsp sumac 200g haloumi, thinly sliced 200g mixed heirloom tomatoes, thinly sliced 2 balls buffalo mozzarella, torn 1 bunch baby rocket or wild rocket 1 tbs lemon juice Preheat…

ONE THING SHINES through when you talk to George Calombaris this is a man in love with food, and the fun to be had creating recipes people will want to cook and eat. “It’s exciting to be able to do these recipes with delicious. ,” he says. “I really hope that when the mag comes out, the pages are sticky. It’s a bit tongue in cheek, but let’s not be too serious. Food should be fun.” The chef is on a mission to export his Greek food beyond Melbourne. He’s recently opened branches of his Jimmy Grants souvlaki bars in Sydney and on the Gold Coast, while his ouzeria -influenced Gazi restaurant is coming to Sydney. “Where exactly I can’t tell you. When exactly I can’t tell you towards the…

Just when you think you know Melbourne – recently named the world’s most liveable city for the seventh year running – it surprises you. Its architectural streets and myriad of laneways (there are more than 230 of them) are packed with hidden delights waiting to be explored. From early-morning artisan coffee to fine dining among the clouds and cheeky late-night bars, this is a 24-hour city of wonders. Here, we’ve rounded up the best restaurants, bars, hotels and events Melbourne has to offer so your next visit to will truly be one to remember. WHERE TO EAT Embla (122 Russell St; embla.com.au) Pull up at the back bar for a view of the chefs deftly working the woodfired oven. Don’t miss the soured cucumbers with dill and feta . Vue…

SWEET AND SAVOURY I normally finish with one fresh or runny cheese, a bowl of seasonal fruit, such as cherries or mandarins, and dark chocolate. I am also a sucker for chocolate honeycomb. GO-TO DESSERT My two favourites are the chocolate self-saucing pudding in Bill’s Food and the nectarine and blueberry battercake from Bill’s Basics . Both are crowd-pleasers. DRINK ORDER An aperitif to begin. Then wine, then herbal tea or decaf espresso. I especially love lemon verbena tea. GLASS ACT I have a huge selection collected over the years. Alvar Aalto for water, William Yeoward for cocktails, and Riedel for wine. I also have some special glasses, hand-blown in Kyoto, that were given to guests at an extraordinary wedding I attended. PLATE EXPECTATIONS I started life as a minimalist,…

EASY EATING FAST & FRESH Tomato & feta salad with soy-roasted pumpkin seeds, p 107 Rigatoni with chorizo polettini, p 74 Apple crumble cookies, p 67 “These flavours don’t disappoint. And the added bonus? It’s all super easy to whip up during the week, with so much already on hand in the pantry. (Cookies obviously to take as work snacks, too!)” Hayley Incoll, delicious. Creative Director FLAVOURS OF ITALY VIVA VEGETARIAN Truffle, potato & mushroom pizzas with no-knead dough, p 84 Pirate Cru Dante Gabriel Vermentino 2016 Tray-baked ricotta gnocchi with capsicum and tomatoes, p 72 Millbrook Regional Sangiovese 2015 Yoghurt sorbet, roasted plums and rosemary oil, p 116 Innocent Bystander Prosecco NV Menu match brought to you by “This superb vegetarian feast is best matched with Mediterranean wines. A…

AUSSIES LOVE TO TRAVEL. Stats from Tourism Research Australia show we took about 40 million flights in the past year alone. That adds up to a whole lot of jetlag. In a world-first, Qantas is working to combat the disruptive effects of long-haul travel on our body’s circadian rhythms, aka jetlag. As the airline launches its first Boeing 787 Dreamliner flight from Perth to London this month, they’ve teamed up with the University of Sydney’s Charles Perkins Centre to reshape the travel experience. “Our partnership will examine everything from reducing the impact of jetlag, through to health, nutrition and sleep through the entire journey, from the lounge to the cabin,” says Qantas Group CEO Alan Joyce. The Dreamliners have game-changing features, including higher humidity to combat dehydration – the enemy…

THERE ARE FEW more enjoyable experiences than sitting by the sea burning your fingers on fresh-from-the-fryer fish ‘n’ chips. Flathead, flake, blue grenadier and barramundi normally suit this treatment, so I was intrigued recently to see sardines feature as the fish ‘n’ chip lunch special at Continental Deli in Sydney. It was, of course, another wacky play on a theme that we’ve come to expect from the crew who brought us the Mar-tinny and Can-Hatten canned cocktails. Fish ‘n’ chips landed as a panini filled with large fillets of canned sardines and a wodge of potato crisps. Once upon a time, Australians dismissed sardines as a greasy, mushy fish packed in cans with some kind of sauce, and although these days they’re cracking straight from the can, fresh Australian sardines…

QUICK & EASY FOOD 5 INGREDIENTS QUICK & EASY FOOD focuses unapologetically on genius combinations of just five ingredients that work together to deliver an utterly delicious result, giving maximum flavour with minimum fuss. These are dishes you can get on the table in 30 minutes or less; or that are ridiculously quick to put together with just 10 minutes’ hands-on time, while the oven or hob does the rest of the work. I want everyone to enjoy cooking from scratch and, armed with this book, there are no excuses. I’ve made it as simple as possible to cook amazing food, celebrating the joy of five ingredients, any day of the week, whatever the occasion – everything from quick weeknight suppers to a weekend feast with friends. I’ve kept…

“THESE ARE RECIPES I LOVE TO COOK AT HOME. A LOT OF IT IS STREET-FOOD-INSPIRED; STUFF YOU CAN EAT WITH YOUR HANDS OR GET YOUR GUESTS TO BUILD, LIKE THE TACOS. THEN THERE ARE THE ONE-POT WONDERS – THE CURRY, THE ALMOND DUKKAH BAKE. IT PROVES CHICKEN NEEDN’T BE DULL.” CHICKEN SCHNITTY BUN WITH CABBAGE & APPLE SLAW MAKES 6 500g skinless chicken breast fillets 1 cup (150g) plain flour 2 eggs, lightly beaten 2 cups (100g) panko breadcrumbs 20g finely grated parmesan Finely grated zest of 2 limes 50g unsalted butter, chopped 2 tbs sunflower oil 6 brioche buns CABBAGE & APPLE SLAW 1/2 small white cabbage, thinly shredded (we used a mandoline) 1 red onion, thinly sliced 1 red apple, cut into matchsticks 1/3 cup (100g) mayonnaise 1…

CLAYTON WELLS IS A busy man. As well as helming his inner-city Sydney fine-diner, Automata, he’s spending one week a month at Blackwattle, his restaurant in Singapore. Then there’s his latest Sydney venue, A1 Canteen, which is set to open any day opposite Automata in The Old Rum Store in the Kensington Street dining precinct. The demands on his time didn’t stop the hot-shot chef putting together this collection of recipes that showcases “the line we’re going to be travelling on with A1 Canteen – it’ll be a fun, casual place”. Wells’ cooking style is heavily influenced by his global travels and overarching desire to showcase the best and freshest local produce – clearly evident in the recipes here and, he says, an ethos that will carry through to the…

“BENZILAN HAS A DESOLATE, WINDSWEPT BEAUTY. PRAYER FLAGS FLUTTER, SKIES ARE BIG AND THE PREDOMINANT CULTURE IS TIBETAN.” THROUGH THE MOUNTAINOUS expanses of Southwest China winds an ancient network of caravan paths once plied, from Lhasa to Bengal, by teams of mules carrying pu’er tea and salt. The tea was traded for (among other things) tough Tibetan ponies, earning the route the moniker the ‘Tea Horse Road’. The route hasn’t been used commercially since early last century, but its romance lives on. Lux Resorts has tapped in to the old road’s lure, opening two properties in Yunnan: one in Lijiang, 500km north of the provincial capital, Kunming, and the other at Benzilan, a remote Tibetan settlement in the north. Each couldn’t be more different in look, culture and cuisine. Lijiang,…

The Bellarine Peninsula first caught our eyes as the backdrop in much-loved ABC drama SeaChange . The series was filmed around Barwon Heads in the late ’90s, and two decades on, it’s still easy to see why this part of the world, just 90 minutes’ drive from Melbourne, was chosen it’s all sandy beaches, stunning coastline, gently rolling hills and quaint historical townships. What we didn’t know then was that the region boasts serious food cred – the maritime climate is ideal for wine-making, fertile soils yield copious produce (there’s been a rich agricultural history here since the 1830s), and the surrounding waters of Swan Bay and Bass Strait are an abundant source of seafood. All up, that’s led to a profusion of restaurants, providores and wineries, all with a…