Table of contents for June 2023 in Delicious UK

I want to talk about a trio of sidelined foods: the mussel, the gooseberry – and burnt stuff. First of all, it's June, which means the gooseberry is shimmying into the sunlight. So often dismissed as too tart to be palatable, this glorious fruit needs only the right recipes, savoury and sweet, to put it on a culinary pedestal. And yes, you can find those recipes on p24. While I'm in campaigning mode, my next shout-out is for cover star and understudy of the seafood world, the mussel. It's as good for the environment as it is for the purse, so three cheers for the mussel manifesto on p60, plus our food team's recipes – good prompts to put these wonderful bivalves on your weekly shopping list. And now on…

This month's star email wins a Magimix Le Micro Mini Chopper, worth £60 Small, powerful and easy to use, the mini chopper purées, grinds, blends, liquidises and, of course, chops. With an 800ml capacity, it's compact and easy to stash away – ideal for smaller kitchens. The durable stainless steel blade makes light work of vegetables, nuts, herbs and spices, while the pulse function allows for control over texture and consistency. magimix.co.uk FOR YOUR CHANCE TO WIN A MAGIMIX MINI CHOPPER… Let us know your thoughts on this month's issue by emailing us at info@deliciousmagazine.co.uk*…

DAD'S DELIGHTS If the old man is a fan of a slightly bitter cocktail (like Rick Stein – see p73), he might be pleased to receive a bottle of new Bolney Sussex Negroni from the renowned wine estate. They already made a gin and a red vermouth; all they needed was their own version of Campari – so they invented one. The result is a winner – herbal and intense. Serve in the classic way, over ice with a slice of orange (also good topped up with fizz). If Pops is into barbecuing, he might enjoy a ‘trio tube’ of British BBQ seasonings from Ross & Ross Gifts. The smoked BBQ salt with garlic and charcoal is a game changer. Bolney Sussex Negroni, £28 for 50cl, bolneywineestate.com British BBQ Trio (110g…

Recipe I can't wait to make (above): Sweet and sour dal with chickpea flour pasta rags. I didn't know that… Who knew lime leaf salt would have such a transformative effect on a tomato salad? Bloomsbury £26. BOOK OF THE MONTH COMFORT AND JOY Born in Kenya to Indian parents, Ravinder Bhogal developed an early love of veg from her grandfather's allotment and the produce of local women growers. This engaging book shares that love and revels in Bhogal's belief that “vegetables are the soul of the kitchen… [offering] endless opportunities for play”. The recipes deliver on that: hot and sour sweetcorn risotto with lime leaf butter, and mango and ‘golden coin’ curry (see p94) are among the many that insist on being made. Bhogal moved to London at an…

Simple Sunday lunch. voices in food. In all cultures, sitting down to feast on a whole roast chicken, stuffed or otherwise, brings about feelings of comfort and abundance. Until not so long ago, it was a luxury few could afford, and for festive occasions alone. While nowadays a roast chicken has become an easy casual dinner– something you'd happily eat with your hands, then lick those juices off your fingers and lips – a properly stuffed saffron roast chicken on an Iranian table still holds prestige and elegance, albeit with the same joyful finger licking. In Iran, the chicken would be the golden centrepiece of a lavish spread for a gathering, next to trays of rice – two kinds: one simple, perhaps another with broad beans and dill – and possibly…

Iremember making my first batch of sloe gin. Picking the berries, giving them a good wash, submerging them in the alcohol… then drinking it all long before it was ready. That's the issue with sloe gin – the recipe itself is easy; being patient is the hard bit. Luckily, not all infused spirits require months of waiting before they're ready – in fact, most are ready in a week or two (and some need only a day). And, honestly, steeping fruit is the tip of the iceberg. Alcoholic spirits (40% ABV and higher) are highly effective at extracting flavour from stuff submerged in them; they also create a sterile environment, making the process safe and hard to mess up. You can treat a bottle of booze as an empty pot…

PICKLE JUICE It's thought to be great for a hangover (athletes prone to cramps swear by it too) as it can replenish your electrolytes. Keep pickle juice for a morning smoothie or a bloody mary cocktail – depending on your recovery technique. The tangy brine in a jar of pickles is also good sprinkled over chips instead of vinegar, used in salad dressings or added to a marinade for chicken or meat – so use every last drop. SPICE PASTES Most of us swill out a tin of chopped tomatoes with a glug of water to avoid wasting the stuck bits, then add it to the dish. Don't forget this works with spice and herb pastes too. Curry paste, harissa, pesto… Get swilling! BRILLIANT BRINE It's sacrilege to throw away…

It sounded so much fun last year when you booked it, didn't it? A weekend, a week, two weeks away with close friends, their kids too… What could possibly be nicer? Waking up late, cooking together, lazy lunches, afternoon naps, long walks, movie nights, kitchen discos, properly catching up, quality time and all that. But then reality bites. You never realised someone could make so much noise saluting the sun at 6am or that it was possible to make a ‘quick shower’ last an hour and a half, that your dear friend's child only eats orange food on Tuesdays or that her husband has a late-onset interest in thrash metal, that one person's gentle stroll after lunch is another person's Royal Marines endurance march and that someone – as yet…

Although we've only recently met, I feel I've known Ravinder Bhogal since the day her book Jikoni landed on the doormat. Her words and recipes danced off the page. It has since become rabbit-eared with post-its: green ones for first-impression favourites; pink, recipes for that Easter weekend with friends; the blue ones picked out by my daughter to try. Even in her absence, Ravinder has been quite a presence at my kitchen table these past years. One of the reasons I find her books so appealing is the very clear sense of someone with a determination to be herself; there is an unexpectedness in the recipes and combinations that feels highly individual. This is entirely reinforced in person. Born in Kenya, of Indian parents, Ravinder came to London when she…

appetite for change. English wine is flourishing. And at Warden Abbey Vineyard near Biggleswade in Bedfordshire, it's providing benefits beyond being a quality British product to be proud of – it's helping to fight loneliness. Work on the vineyard is carried out by a team of around 70 volunteers and one paid manager. “That the vineyard is run almost entirely by volunteers makes it unique,” explains Amanda Gibson, a committee member of Friends of Warden Abbey Vineyard (FWAV), a charity that helps with running costs. SINGLE VINEYARD, GROUP ACHIEVEMENT “We have a range of people who volunteer, and it can be an ideal activity for people who are socially isolated,” adds Gerry Nolan, chair of FWAV. One comment from a satisfied volunteer reads: “What's special about it is the sense…

The recipe Serves 8 Hands-on time 15 min Oven time 55-65 min Specialist kit 23cm round cake tin MAKE AHEAD The cake can be made up to 3 days in advance. Store in a cake tin and keep at room temperature. ALISON'S TIP “If you're craving something a bit stickier, a bit sweeter, know that in lieu of the unsweetened berries, this versatile batter can be baked with 315g jam or marmalade swirled in. The result will be a little sweeter and more subtle in its delivery of the fruit, thanks to the more even distribution of the preserve, but it will still be delicious and extremely snackable.” • Cooking spray to grease • 220g plain flour • 1 tbsp baking powder • 1 tsp sea salt flakes • 365g…

Win a Flapjackery Taste of the West box of 12 giant gluten-free flapjacks plus a jute bag, worth over £50. Made in Devon, the flapjacks’ array of flavours includes clotted cream fudge and peanut butter brownie – all crunchy, crumbly and laden with golden syrup.” flapjackery.co.uk…

speedy supper. Green veg and feta galette Serves 2 (or 4 for a light lunch) Hands-on time 10 min Oven time 20 min MAKE AHEAD Cover, chill and eat within 2 days. The tart is as good at room temperature as it is warm. Heat the oven to 180°C fan/gas 6 with a baking tray in it. Whizz 75g feta, 20g any chopped soft herbs and the finely grated zest of 1 lemon in a processor until you get a green rubble. In a bowl, mix 1 finely sliced shallot with lOOg sliced seasonal greens (mangetout, broad beans, baby courgettes), 1 tsp extra-virgin olive oil and a squeeze of lemon juice, then season with salt and pepper. Unwrap a 320g sheet of shortcrust pastry but leave on the baking paper…

BARBECUE FEAST Burnt spring onions with ajo bianco sauce (p44) Spicy braai sole with maize and peppers with spinach (p77) Coal-roasted pineapple with spiced rum burnt caramel & lime cream (p49) It's all about feeling the burn – with some extra heat from the spices. Fire up the barbie, do a little prep in the kitchen, then enjoy getting your char on outside. Just the ticket for a sunny weekend. PERFECT BALANCE Sbagliato (p73) Saffron roast chicken with dried fruit (p34) Gooseberry and elderflower cobbler (p30) This menu is for anyone who loves the contrast of sweet-sharp flavours – the bittersweet aperitif will sharpen the appetite for the luxurious roast chicken. Serve with rice and whatever veg you fancy – but make sure you save room for the summery cobbler.…

“I love a gravy dinner after a holiday abroad” When did you start cooking? I always enjoyed it – it's such an immersive, relaxing experience. I trained as a professional chef at Leiths in 2014. Treasured food memory? My dad used to cook a fab Tex-Mex chicken liver dish – quite innovative for the day. Favourite family recipe? Mum's shortbread and an aunt's cherry and walnut cake. Drink order? Red wine. Cheer-up meal? I love a gravy dinner after a holiday abroad – often shepherd's pie. Kitchen stalwart? Two: the KitchenAid and potato ricer (I quite like the corkscrew too). Fridge essentials? ‘Nduja, eggs and cheese. A dish can always be made from those three. Secret weapon? Salt (taste, season, taste). Wish list? North: Tommy Banks’ The Black Swan. South:…

delicious. food editor Tom Shingler reveals which supermarket aisles to head for in a hurry SAUCE IN SECONDS Jarred sauces can often be oversweet and gloopy. This new range from Filippo Berio, however, has enough texture to seem homemade. The salinity of the olive one is good enough on its own, but melt a few anchovy fillets into it and you have a super-speedy puttanesca. £2.50 for 340g, Tesco HOUMOUS HEAVEN Whole sections of supermarket aisles are now dedicated to whizzed up chickpeas, but Holy Moly's new harissa flavour stands out from the crowd. Smoky and with a pleasing warmth of chilli, it's a great little dip or an easy addition to a mezze spread. £2.20 for 150g, Sainsbury's and Asda PASTE WITH TASTE Ready-made spice pastes save time and…

When I was five, I was given a roast dinner without gravy. It was at a friend's house and I thought, “This is dry… I like sauce.” I realised then how important food was to me. I loved eating and wanted to understand how to cook myself. After that, I was always in the kitchen with Mum, helping her, watching and learning. My mum is an amazing Caribbean cook. When she steps out of her comfort zone… not so much! I come from a working class family. I never wanted for anything in my life, but I've also never had a huge amount given to me. I'm now at a point where I can give back to others. One of the charities I support is the Mayor's Fund For London.…

Probably the world's most famous salad (and, in my opinion, the world's best), the caesar throws up many questions when in search of the perfect recipe. Worcestershire sauce or anchovies? What about mustard? How should the parmesan be added? What else can you throw in there before it becomes a different salad altogether? I'm not going to insult you (or the salad's original creator, Caesar Cardini) by incorporating dairy into the dressing, nor am I a fan of the unnecessary addition of pallid slices of chicken breast. Done properly, caesar dressing is perfectly creamy and flavourful enough to turn humble leaves and old bits of bread into something wondrous. As with many classic dishes, caesar salad was invented by mistake. It's also a relatively recent creation. In 1924, Mr Cardini,…

Use a clean, non-reactive container. That means no metal. Other than that, use whatever you like: jars, bottles, plastic cartons… As for cleanliness, the alcohol should sterilise the container but you don't want any unwanted flavours in there. Make sure your ingredients are fully submerged in the alcohol. Floating is fine, but you don't want anything sticking out of the liquid. Don't be tempted by the cheapest spirits. They need to be drinkable in their unflavoured state if you're hoping for good results with an infusion. Don't use the top-shelf stuff either, as you're paying for a subtle complexity that will be overpowered by your flavourings. Want a speedier infusion? You can finely chop, whizz or bash the ingredients so a larger surface area is in contact with the spirit.…

“Dad taught me there's joy in change but also in what's already here” The youngest of three brothers, Charlie was born into the foodbiz but is grateful to father Rick for encouraging him to strike out on his own. He's a vintner and director in the family business, managing the restaurants’ wine lists and the online drinks shop CHARLIE ON RICK “We're a restaurateur family, so all I've ever really known is food and drink. From an early age I've been lucky to have met lots of great chefs and winemakers, who were friends of Mum and Dad. I started as kitchen porter in the family restaurant, but then worked in London for eight years in the wine business. Dad said: ‘You'll learn so much more that way – and…

Cocktail of the month We challenge you to find a more summery creation than this! Our wonderful infused rum (p53) gets muddled with mint and lime for a big hit of freshness before being mellowed out with soda water. Refreshing and almost dangerously drinkable. EASY SWAPS Haven't got round to I infusing your rum? Use spiced rum instead, adding a dash of pineapple juice, and muddle in 1-2 slices of chilli. Pineapple, cucumber and chilli mojito Serves 1 Hands-on time 5 min How to make it Cut ½ lime into wedges, squeeze the juice from them into a tall glass, then add 2 tsp demerara sugar (throw the squeezed wedges in too). Add the leaves from 3 mint sprigs and muddle, then add 50ml pineapple, mint and jalapeño rum (or see…

Witbier, white beer, wit, weizen, weissbier or hefeweizen – whatever you see them called, these are fabulously refreshing beers, brewed with a significant amount of wheat alongside the malted barley in their recipe, and they're perfect for sipping in the summer sun or having with dinner. Distinguished by their hazy yellow to amber appearance, there are two traditional types of wheat beer: Belgian-style witbier (think Hoegaarden and Blue Moon) and German-style weissbier (pronounced ‘vice-beer’), with brands like Erdinger and Franziskaner. Despite similar underlying recipes (roughly half wheat and half barley) they're notably different in flavour. Witbier is typically brewed with coriander seed and dried orange peel, and it has a fruity-floral flavour, plus an underlying clove-andpepper spiciness with a crisp, zesty finish. Weissbier is usually fuller bodied, with a sweeter…

The cherry on the cake The season for this nutritious fruit is short, so make the most of cherries while they're around. They're rich in plant compounds called polyphenols as well as vitamin C, both of which protect cells from damage and reduce inflammation. There's also evidence linking cherries to reduced blood pressure, improved sleep and quicker muscle recovery after exercise. It's stoned love! THE MEDITERRANEAN DIET AND DEMENTIA New evidence suggests that a Mediterranean diet of veg, wholegrains, seafood and nuts could reduce the risk of dementia by almost a quarter. The findings, based on data of about 60,000 individuals gathered by the UK Biobank, highlight the important role diet plays in brain health as we get older. Genetic factors play a part in developing the condition and it's…

1 Which grape is used to make barolo? a) Nero d'avola b) Sangiovese c) Barbera d) Nebbiolo 2 What did Proust dunk in the first draft of A la Recherche du Temps Perdu? a) Rich tea biscuit b) Strawberry macaron c) Toast with honey d) Croissant with jam 3Crema catalana is a cooked custard; which of these is not used to make it? a) Cinnamon b) Citrus zest c) Cream d) Egg yolks 4 Which US actress had a rum cocktail named after her during Prohibition? a) Mary Pickford b) Shirley Temple c) Louise Brooks d) Lillian Gish 5 Which pest wiped out most of Europe's grapevines in the early 20th century? a) Botrytis b) Ergot c) Phylloxera d) Black rot 6 Place these curries in typical rising order of heat a) Madras b) Korma c) Vindaloo d) Bhuna 7 The Scottish lome sausage is… a) …vegetarian b) …square c)…

LOOKING FORWARD TO CAREFREE SUMMER EVENINGS? The best times aren't always spontaneous… It's still worth getting into your calendar to plan a few days out. Here are just a handful of events on our wish list this summer… STREET FOOD WITH DRAMA ON THE SIDE Independent food market Kerb pitches up outside the National Theatre on London's South Bank Wed-Sun until 23 September, with a 70-metre banqueting table. Think Portuguese sandwiches, rum punch and scoops of Big Kid Ice Cream's ‘honey butter toast’ in the sun. What's more, the free outdoor festival, River Stage, runs every weekend from 9 June to 2 July, with live music, dance and drag performances. Also in London… Enjoy small plates from the city's restaurants at Taste of London (below, 14-18 June) in Regent's Park…

delicious. world. Follow us on social @deliciousmag @sanjanafeasts Masala chai. Every day since I was 21 @gailycee Peanut butter @lincolnstlady Yogurt @pantryprovidore Nah, how boring. Variety is the spice of life… @creedBwfc I like my two slices of toast for breakfast unless there's a full English on offer, which I'll probably have with toast @FlissFreeborn I have had a cup of tea with whole milk almost every day since 2003, if that counts? @DeccanTiffin Single estate darjeeling tea every morning since I was at high school – my father got me on to it. Everyday food would include basmati rice @pcamps1 Alvalle gazpacho for lunch, summer and winter @celia_procter Toast for breakfast. Nothing else appeals (except a bacon sandwich once in a blue moon) @sbovill15 Bananas! @BalabustaOG Houmous @Smeagalsmith Cheese.…

1. BARGAIN UNDER £20 If you like coupes and you like coloured glass, these beauties are destined for your show shelves. Handblown in teal blue, with clear glass stems, they're dishwasher-safe and look the elegant part. Japonica champagne coupes, £17 for four, habitat.co.uk 2. SPOTTED ON INSTAGRAM Rose England's posters are stunning designs printed on thick, textured artist's paper, in no-fade colours. Rose creates posters of cocktails and all sorts, but I love her depictions of her favourite spots in London. Unframed prints from £40 (A3) up to £105 (50x70cm), roseenglandlondon.com 3. FATHER'S DAY GIFT ECO PICK The delicious. food team's Emily Gussin tested this beautiful knife… “A knife made in Sheffield with recycled materials by British craftsmen is a win in my eyes. It makes light work of chopping and…

The warming hug of ground ginger goes hand in hand with gooseberry tang in this wonderfully simple cake, enriched with ground almonds and yogurt A frangipane tart is a great medium for fruity flavours – especially when the fruit are plump, honey-glazed gooseberries. Chunks of white chocolate add a final note of sweetness Gooseberry and white chocolate frangipane tart Serves 6-8 Hands-on time 30 min, plus 1½ hours resting Oven time 1 hour Specialist kit 23cm fluted tart tin with a removeable base DON'T WASTE IT Not sure what to do with a glut of gooseberries? They freeze well, so make sure you pick more than you need and keep them on hand for use later in the year. EASY SWAPS This recipe works well with shop-bought shortcrust pastry too…

be a better cook Do you want to know the one thing we home cooks can do that fancy chefs never can? We can focus purely on the flavour of something, without worrying about how it will affect the way it looks. A chef needs to make sure the crackling on the pork is uniformly bronzed and the char marks on the steak are even and distinct. Anything veering beyond dark brown to black is almost always removed before it's eaten. But we all know that the best part of a lasagne is the crunchy bit of pasta that pokes through the sauce and gets lightly singed in the oven. A BURNING PASSION At home, we have the option to push food that little bit further when we want to…

The recipe Serves 8 Hands-on time 30 min Oven time 50-58 min Specialist kit 23cm loose-bottomed tart tin or springform cake tin MAKE AHEAD Make the tart case up to 2 days ahead, wrap and chill in the fridge. For the pastry • 200g plain flour • 80g icing sugar • 1½ tsp salt • 170g unsalted butter, melted and cooled slightly For the filling • 155g maple syrup, plus extra to serve • ¼ tsp ground cinnamon (optional) • 230g double cream • 1 large free-range egg • 1 large free-range egg yolk • 1 tbsp cornflour • ½ tsp sea salt flakes, plus extra to serve • Whipped cream to serve 1 Heat the oven to 160°C fan/gas 4. To make the pastry, combine the flour, icing sugar…

OYSTERS These are also sustainable when farmed, but dredged wild oysters should be avoided. Pacific or rock oysters are almost always farmed in the UK, whereas native oysters are more likely to be wild-caught. COCKLES It's best to buy from MSCapproved suppliers as some are harvested using habitatdamaging hand rakes, and in some places they're overfished. Try them in a British spaghetti alla vongole or cockle chowder. SCALLOPS Farmed scallops are a sustainable choice, but wild-caught ones need investigating. Many are dredged, which can damage the surrounding seabed. RAZOR CLAMS Traditionally razor clams are non-destructively hand-gathered (although stocks need monitoring so seabirds don't miss out). But many fisheries use dredges and even (illegal) electrical pulses, which damage other wildlife.…

“Vietnamese food is all about balance making sure sweet, salty, sour, bitter and umami flavours sing together. That makes it sound complicated to cook at home, but it really isn't! These three dishes are packed with flavour, simple and quick to prepare, and I think they make the perfect introduction to cooking Vietnamese dishes at home. There are a few of my own twists and little nods to the British larder in here, but the essence of Vietnamese cooking is front and centre in every bite” THUY DIEM PHAM Lemongrass beef, pear & chicory salad Serves 3-4 Hands-on time 30 min “This is inspired by one of my favourite Vietnamese lunches, a beef noodle dish called bun bo nam bo. It's a light meal with incredible flavours in every mouthful…

ENGLISH AND WELSH CORKERS The Uncommon Eleanor Bubbly Rose Wine, England 11.5% An easy-to-carry and recycle can of dry pink spritzy wine made from English pinot noir. With delicate strawberry and red cherry, it's perfect for a picnic. £4.99 for 250ml, Waitrose, Ocado, Marks & Spencer Velfrey Vineyard Naturiol 2021, Pembrokeshire, Wales 7% A naturally lower alcohol, still white wine made from the bacchus grape, with green pears and apple peel notes. It has quite a full finish, so bring it out for a cheeseboard or pork rillettes. £20, velfreyvineyard.com Chapel Down Flint Dry 2021, Kent, England 11% Made from a blend of four grapes delivering crunchy apple, juicy lemons and kiwi fruit, this is well balanced, not sour, and one of the best English whites at the price. £16.99…

10 min prep time Thrifty genius Bring some sunshine to your weeknight chicken dinner with this warm romesco sauce, full of tang and sweet nutty depth Friday night dinner Modern vegan Jammy courgettes and ricotta on toast Serves 2 Hands-on time 10 min Simmering time 30 min EASY SWAPS Use any bread you like; focaccia or sourdough also work well. Play around with the spices too. • 1 tbsp olive oil • 1 tsp fennel seeds • ¼-½ tsp chilli flakes • 3 garlic cloves, finely sliced • 2 large or 3 medium courgettes, sliced into 1cm-thick coins • 2 thick slices ciabatta • 250g ricotta • Finely grated zest and juice 1 lemon 1 Heat the oil in a large saucepan over a medium heat. Add the fennel seeds…

health matters. Most of us reach for a snack at some point during the day to tide us over until the next meal. But with snacking linked to weight gain and poor diet quality, eating between meals is now widely frowned upon. Should we try to avoid it altogether? Or can snacking actually deliver certain health benefits? Findings like these have fuelled concerns that snacking increases the risk of obesity and ill-health. But according to experts, snacking in and of itself isn't necessarily bad for us. Why and when we snack, what we eat and how much, determines whether it's good for our wellbeing or not. WHEN GRAZING BETWEEN MEALS IS GOOD “Snacking can help you get foods and nutrients into your diet that you might find difficult to fit…

Digital technology has brought a world of good into my kitchen – mainly in the form of inspiration. Whether I'm looking for Arkansas barbecue or Korean fried chicken, I can summon pages of recipes (with life stories attached) in seconds. Of course, it's not perfect. The marriage between gastronomy and digital tech has also birthed its share of nonsense. My life has never felt poorer for lack of a bluetooth enabled toaster. It's easy to scoff, but recent advances have proved more difficult to swallow. If you read the papers you'll know ChatGPT is after my job. Now, Artificial Intelligence-generated recipes are encroaching on the most hallowed part of my kitchen: the bookshelf. Though these developments may trigger the odd existential squeak, I'm convinced of one thing: no technology will…