Table of contents for March 2022 in Delicious UK

March is a weird month – neither one thing nor the other. Or, rather, sometimes one thing and then something completely different: season, weather, mood, food. I reckon a hiatus of this kind is the ideal opportunity to master (or brush up on) some skills. We’ve relaunched and rebooted our Be A Better Cook section – important because I see it as the beating heart of delicious. The more you understand about food, the better the food that comes out of your kitchen will taste. This month, on p112, you’ll find a technical bake special, put together with the experts at the renowned Bread Ahead cookery school, with a focus on yeasted breads – some simple (focaccia and a white loaf ); some more complex (brioche and tender milk rolls).…

ADAPTED FROM A RECIPE BY ELLIE AND SAM STUDD. PHOTOGRAPH: CHRIS COURT. FOOD STYLING: KIRSTEN JENKINS Cacio e pepe Serves 1 Hands-on time 15 min NEXT TIME Stir in leftover roast veg or a handful of frozen peas or fried mushrooms. • 100g spaghetti • 1 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil • ½ tsp freshly ground black pepper, plus extra to serve • 85g pecorino romano (or regular pecorino), finely grated • 25g parmesan, finely grated 1 Cook the pasta in a large pan of boiling salted water for 1 minute less than the pack instructions. Drain, reserving 125ml of the cooking water. 2 Heat the oil in a medium pan for 1 minute to warm through, then stir in the pepper and cook for 15 seconds or until fragrant. Add half the reserved cooking water…

Jo Branston Diana Henry’s rhubarb, rose and cardamom jam from her book Salt Sugar Smoke. Wonderful on rice pudding, filling a sponge cake or straight out of the jar on a spoon! Irene Paterson I make a spicy rhubarb sauce that goes with pork, mackerel or duck – it’s great because it cuts through anything slightly fatty. Joanna Appley Stewed on Weetabix for breakfast. Yes, the milk curdles a little but that doesn’t matter! Or rhubarb jelly – stewed and sweetened, mixed into packet raspberry jelly dissolved in only half the usual amount of water. Yum! Matilda Stannard-Moore I don’t think you can beat rhubarb crumble. My late mother didn’t cook much but this was something she made every year with rhubarb from a neighbour. The smell of it cooking…

A GOOD DAY TO BAKE Creative baker Benjamina Ebuehi’s latest leans into the trend to cater to your fancies while improving your wellbeing, with more than 70 recipes to answer sweet and savoury cravings. Intriguing flavours (goose-fat potato focaccia, chamomile lemon buns) and serene photography make this a book bakers will adore browsing. Quadrille £22 (out 17 March) EAT SHARE LOVE The charity 91 Ways to Build a Global City, named for the number of languages spoken in Bristol, uses food to build local connections. Founder Kalpna Woolf brings together the community’s recipes, such as Guyanese lamb curry or ‘Brizzle’ prawn cocktail. Learn the stories behind the dishes too in this warm-hearted read. Meze Publishing £22 THE SOURDOUGH WHISPERER Blogger Elaine Boddy is an authority on sourdough. Her jargon-free ‘ultimate…

“Slightly tired of the classic, hearty cold-weather dishes? With spring’s new vegetables yet to arrive, I relish the challenge of adding fresh interest to recipes. Breathe new life into winter veg and make the most of seasonal gems to escape humdrum mealtimes”JESS MEYER, ACTING DEPUTY FOOD EDITOR Stir-fried purple sprouting broccoli with crispy garlic and shallots Serves 4 as a side Hands-on time 10 min EASY SWAPS Use tenderstem or chinese broccoli (gai lan) instead of purple sprouting broccoli. The sauce also works well with seasonal greens like kale and cavolo nero. KNOWHOW Fermented black bean paste is an umami-rich condiment made from black soy beans. Commonly used in Chinese cuisine, it’s found in Asian supermarkets and some larger supermarkets. If you can’t find any, use a good quality black…

Chilli con carne meatballs with paprika tortilla chips Serves 4-5 Hands-on time 60 min, plus chilling Simmering time 30 min MAKE AHEAD Make to the end of step 3, then chill in an airtight container for 1-2 days. • 500g British beef mince • 1 onion, grated, excess liquid squeezed out • 1 medium free-range egg, lightly beaten • 70g stale sourdough breadcrumbs • ½ small bunch coriander, stalks finely chopped, leaves roughly chopped • 1 tbsp each smoked paprika, ground cumin and ground coriander • 2 tbsp olive oil, plus extra for brushing • 500g mixed vegetables, roughly diced (we used onion, celery, red pepper, sweetcorn, carrot and sweet potato) • 2 tbsp chipotle paste • 2 garlic cloves, crushed • 330ml lager • 400g tin chopped tomatoes • 400g tin black beans or kidney beans, drained and rinsed • 100 grated cheese…

PHOTOGRAPH: KATE WHITAKER RECIPES: JEN BEDLOE. PHOTOGRAPHS: HANNAH HUGHES. FOOD STYLING: KATY MCCLELLAND. STYLING: VICTORIA ELDRIDGE “For those weekends when you want to entertain but would really rather go to the pub for Sunday lunch, why not bring the best of the bar to your own table? With a colourful gastropub terrine followed by a winner of a fish pie and treacle tart, ladies and gentlemen: it’s time!” JEN BEDLOE, FOOD EDITOR Beetroot and goat’s cheese terrine Serves 6 Hands-on time 25 min, plus cooling, marinating and setting Oven time 45-50 min Specialist kit 450g loaf tin lined with overhanging cling film or a plastic food bag MAKE AHEAD Make the terrine at least 2-3 hours or up to 1 day ahead, then cover and chill. Use up leftovers within…

There are so many ways to connect with the delicious. community. Feast on the stream of gorgeous food photos on Instagram and Pinterest, join in the fun debate on Twitter and share your pics, tips and ideas in the popular delicious. Food Lovers Facebook group at deliciousmagazine.co.uk/foodlovers. And of course, at deliciousmagazine.co.uk you’ll find thousands of tried-and-tested dishes to cook and rate, from everyday meals to feasts for friends. PLUS! GET OUR NEWSLETTER Tempting recipe ideas in your inbox, exactly when you need them, plus competitions, offers and more... Sign up for our email newsletter at deliciousmagazine.co.uk/newsletter…

RECIPES & FOOD STYLING: ESTHER CLARKPHOTOGRAPHS: TOBY SCOTT. STYLING: SARAH BIRKS Piri-piri roast chicken Serves 4 using thighs; a whole chicken will serve 4-6 Hands-on time 10 min Oven time 50 min to 1½ hours SCALE IT DOWN If you’re using chicken thighs, it’s easy to halve the recipe to serve 2. • 500g baby new potatoes, halved • 4 large free-range chicken thighs or 1 medium (about 1.4kg) free-range chicken • 4 tbsp piri-piri spice mix • 1 tsp dried oregano • 2 garlic cloves, crushed • 3 tbsp olive oil • 1 onion, cut into 6 wedges • 4 frozen half corn cobs, defrosted • Small bunch coriander, roughly chopped • Lime wedges and coleslaw to serve 1 Heat the oven to 180°C fan/ gas 6. Bring a pan of salted water to the boil, add the potatoes…

PHOTOGRAPH: HANNAH HUGHES. FOOD STYLING: JESS MEYER. STYLING: VICTORIA ELDRIDGE “This rich, buttery bake is like a cross between a cake and a biscuit, and it’s served – usually with coffee – at any celebration in Brittany, from christenings and birthdays to wedding banquets. The classic gâteau breton is made with either peeled and sliced apple in the middle, laced with rum, or with armagnac-soaked prunes. As with most traditional recipes, everyone’s mum or grandmother’s is the best… This recipe is my grandmother Camille’s” PATISSIER ERIC LANLARD Serves 8-10 Hands-on time 20 min, plus chilling Oven time 40-45 min Specialist kit 20cm springform or loose-bottomed cake tin, lightly greased with butter and the base lined MAKE AHEAD The cake will keep for up to 3 days in an airtight container…

ROOTED MYTHS Are carrots the most misunderstood vegetable? It’s true they’re rich in vitamin A, which is known to support eye health. But this has morphed into the myth that carrots improve your night vision: they don’t. Carrots are also touted as most nutritious when eaten raw, which is also untrue. Some of their nutrients can only be unlocked by cooking. Keeps plants in mind A new long-term study by the University of Barcelona suggests a diet rich in plant-based food and drink might reduce the risk of brain impairment and dementia. Cocoa, coffee, red wine, green tea and food rich in plant compounds called polyphenols (such as apples, blueberries, oranges and pomegranates) could help stave off age-related cognitive decline. GOOD FOR BONES Dried plums – aka prunes – deserve…

May I begin with a caveat? I like fine dining. I also like affordable dining. Eating food? Easily one of my top three things to do. But do I have problems with the idea of fine dining. The main one is that we all have differing definitions of what ‘fine’ actually is. Arguably what sets fine dining apart from everyday dining are the elements beyond the food itself: décor, service, hospitality. Then again, you don’t actually need any of those to have a great meal. Some of the best food I’ve ever had came on Styrofoam plates in the hawker centres of Singapore. I found the most inhospitable places would invariably have the best dishes. Why? They didn’t need to be nice when the food was that good. “Regrettably, what…

Great sights to see The first signs of proper spring, full of cheer, are drifts of daffodils in parks, gardens and hedgerows. Seek them out for a ray of sunshine even when it’s cloudy, then walk, inhale that leafy-musky scent and anticipate longer days to come. English Heritage and National Trust properties are always a good bet – or visit countryfile.com for the best daffodil walks UK-wide. Great treat to try Fancy a night off cooking? Michel Roux Jr’s Classique menu for two, launched for UK-wide delivery by lockdown success Dishpatch, features dishes Michel loves to cook at home, from sublime soupe a l’oignon topped with more melting comté than is decent, a rich, glossy bourguignon and a rum-soaked baba with caramelised oranges and a cloud of chantilly cream. Capital…

Subject: What about the pros of food delivery apps? From: Simone de Monerri Reading ‘The dangers of instant appification’ in the January issue [p130] as a disabled person, I felt alienated by Thea Everett’s arguments. While the cons of this new system are clear, what about the advantages? It’s not easy to pop out to the shops if you have a chronic health condition, are disabled or an OAP, or perhaps shielding from Covid. Food apps enable these sections of the population to retain their independence and have as much choice as everybody else. THEA REPLIES… In a longer article I’d like to have mentioned this benefit. I always hope a neighbour or friend would be able to offer help in these circumstances, but I appreciate your point about the…

“Stirring risotto is a great way to de-stress” When did you start cooking? From a young age with my mother, who still makes the best lemon drizzle cake. Why do you love food? In a crazy world, cooking a meal that will reassure people and make them smile is a great feeling. I’m also passionate about the UK’s artisan producers. Odd food combo? The Gentleman’s Relish with Frank Cooper’s thick-cut marmalade on toast. Treasured food memory? The first time I ate white truffle in Italy, aged 17 – I was shocked it was offered simply but generously, shaved over a fried egg. Cheer-up dish? Risotto – the soothing, repetitive stirring is a great way to de-stress. Best cooking tip? Roll lemons before squeezing to get the most juice – picked…

PLANNING A SCOTTISH GETAWAY? Check out the new Lanarkshire Larder food and drink trail. The 48-mile tour of the region in Scotland’s central Lowlands lists over 25 local gems – from farm shops and restaurants to delis and distilleries (such as Biggar Gin, left) and even hotels. The line-up also includes artisan producer Errington Cheese (above left) and sixth-generation family business Alexander Taylor Bakery. Stamp your map at six locations for the chance to win a hamper worth £400*. lanarkshirelarder.com/ food-trail Calling young wordsmiths... Entries are open for The Guild of Food Writers’ Young Food Writer of the Year 2022. In this year of the Platinum Jubilee, the theme is ‘Food Fit for a Queen’. Entrants are encouraged to interpret this in their own way, with prose or poetry that…

IT’S A GIFT …for Mother’s Day or any time. Handblown glass designed by Rebecca Uth for Danish brand Ro Collection, with colours in several shades of chic. Feel the quality in the weight of it; a covetable present that does double duty as a vase and hurricane lamp. What’s not to love? Hurricane no.26 (25cm x 17cm), £43.46, blomsterdesigns.co.uk CHOP, CHOP A board for slicing and serving, made by hand from solid oak to order. The acrylic disc handles are an abstract-art point of difference – you choose the colour, from bright to monochrome. The beautifully crafted design means you’ll treasure and use it for decades. Edward board, £60, marklowe.co.uk GOOD BAG All plastic-avoiding food lovers need a tote for impromptu grocery-buying. Homesense has commissioned well-known people to design bags…

March was traditionally called the ‘hungry gap’, when winter veg was used up and spring veg yet to come. But a lean seasonal offering can be a fun challenge… Dust off the grill Cabbage, brassicas and kale give smoky, crispy results with grilling, as do onions, leeks and root veg. Spruce up the storecupboard Update your condiments to add interest. Think flavoured oils/vinegars, harissa or yuzu mustard. Jars of kimchi/sauerkraut and other ferments are another good way to bring a little funk to the familiar. Switch up your protein Seasonal highlights like shellfish and venison are an easy swap for beef and lamb.…

Kuba Winkowski is proof that it’s not always family cooking that propels people into the kitchen – but he still has his mum to thank. His restaurant Kubarn launches in the Cotswolds this year, showcasing his smoked, cured and cultured produce. @kuba_winkowski; kubarn.com “I don’t have the usual chef’s story that I got my passion for cooking by watching my mother. It’s the opposite – but my mum, in a way, was still my driving force to become a chef. My love for cooking came from the urge to make her food taste better... She treats food like fuel, and happily eats the same thing every day. It drove me mad! “Mum is still my inspiration and was my driving force to become a chef” Mum has a sweet tooth,…

• Get fruity with the terrine, where Kriek Boon’s (£1.80/250ml, Tesco) sweet and tart cherry flavours will be a great complement to the beetroot and goat’s cheese. • Fish pie likes malt, so go with a smooth dark ale or malt-forward lager like Lost and Grounded’s Helles (£2.75/440ml, Waitrose). • You need something strong to handle the sweetness in treacle tart – Tripel Karmeliet (£3.10/330ml, Waitrose) adds notes of honey, banana and spicy clove to the pairing.…

Banana and date pudding with hazelnut butterscotch Serves 6-8 Hands-on time 20 min, plus soaking Oven time 50-60 min DON’T WASTE IT Leftover butterscotch will keep in an airtight container in the fridge for 3-4 days. Gently reheat and serve with ice cream. EASY SWAPS Swap the Frangelico for another liqueur if you like, or flavour with 1 tsp vanilla bean paste to make the pudding alcohol-free. • 250g pitted dates, roughly chopped • ½ tsp bicarbonate of soda • 125ml freshly boiled water • 2 ripe bananas, chopped • 260g self-raising flour • 120g unsalted butter, melted, then cooled • 150g dark brown soft sugar • 250ml buttermilk • 3 medium free-range eggs, lightly beaten • Double cream to serve For the hazelnut butterscotch • 200g dark brown soft sugar • 100g unsalted butter, chopped • 180ml single cream • 1 tbsp Frangelico…

PHOTOGRAPH: CHARLIE MCKAY. ALWAYS DRINK RESPONSIBLY Cocktail of the month From the bar of much-loved Covent Garden brasserie Joe Allen, overseen by friend of delicious. Russell Norman, comes an update on a classic – updated in 1884, that is, by America’s cocktail godfather Jerry Thomas. joeallen.co.uk Jerry Thomas manhattan Makes 1 Chill a martini glass or other elegant glass, then put a Luxardo maraschino cherry in it. Pour 50ml rye whiskey (or bourbon), 15ml Grand Marnier (or other orange liqueur), 25ml Carpano Antica Formula vermouth (or a good sweet vermouth) and 3 dashes of bitters (such as Angostura) into a shaker/jug. Add ice, stir, then strain into the glass.…

Gin and tonic cake Swap the gin for Apple Crumble Edition and the lime juice for orange juice – just the thing for an afternoon treat PHOTOGRAPHS: RICHARD FAULKS Gin and tonic jellies Try Apple Crumble gin and use elderflower tonic for an aromatic twist on these fun jellies for adults Vanilla and ginger soufflés with blackberry gin sauce Apple Crumble gin will nicely offset the spices and rich berries in this dessert…

RECIPE: THEA EVERETT. PHOTOGRAPH: DAN JONES. FOOD STYLING: KATY MCCLELLAND. STYLING: WEI TANG “Plant-based ingredients can be pricey, but if you forage for the wild garlic, this recipe delivers punchy flavours and a fab ‘cheese’ sauce”THEA EVERETT, delicious. CONTENT PRODUCER Vegan wild garlic lasagne Serves 6 Hands-on time 45 min, plus soaking Oven time 30-40 min MAKE AHEAD Assemble the lasagne to the end of step 5 up to 2 days ahead. Cover and chill until ready to bake. EASY SWAPS Visit deliciousmagazine. co.uk/wildgarlic for tips on how to find wild garlic in the UK this spring. If you can’t find any, fry 2 chopped garlic cloves and mix with 200g spinach, prepared as in step 4. • 200g wild garlic (see Easy Swaps) • Pinch grated nutmeg • 10-12 lasagne sheets (egg free)…

PHOTOGRAPH: HANNAH HUGHES. FOOD STYLING: KATY MCCLELLAND. STYLING: VICTORIA ELDRIDGE You may not realise it, but nuts are actually seeds or fruit that comprise a brittle outer shell with an edible kernel inside. The term ‘nut’ refers to those that grow on trees, such as almonds, brazil nuts, cashews, hazelnuts, macadamia nuts, pecans, pistachios and walnuts. Although peanuts (also known as groundnuts) are technically legumes like peas and beans, they’re nutritionally similar and referred to in the same way as tree nuts. In nature, nuts do an important job of delivering the energy and nutrients a new plant needs to grow. Those same fats, protein, minerals, vitamins and plant compounds benefit humans, too. TOO MUCH FAT? All nuts are high in fat (they’re usually about 50% fat) but mostly the…

8 golden rules of bread-making 1 Water Good, honest tap water is the way to go, usually slightly warm (about 24°C). 2 Flour Consistency is everything. It’s beneficial to get to know a flour and stick to it. Flours do have a personality, so the more time you spend with them the better the relationship will be. For more on flour, see p110. 3 Salt Use unrefined, additive-free sea salt – it has all the minerals needed for your bread. If you’re using salt for flavour or texture, for example with a focaccia, use sea salt flakes such as Maldon for the best finish. 4 Dairy Use full fat for flavour, texture and a great eating experience. In most cases, you can replace cow’s milk with plant-based alternatives. 5 Why…

LIFE OF PIE Celebrate British Pie Week (7-13 March) with this pub-style creation. It has a generous filling-to-pastry ratio, the beef was tender and we loved the tang from the ale in the gravy. No need for mash – just add greens. Higgidy Steak & Sussex Ale Pie, £4 for 250g, Sainsbury’s, Ocado and Booths GUT FEELING Need to give yourself a boost? Try this zingy range of yogurts from Onken with live kefir cultures to help support gut health, and bonus vitamins B6 and B12 to aid your immune system. My favourite was the juicy strawberry and pomegranate. Onken Super Kefir, £1.50 for 350g, Tesco, Co-op, Ocado and Asda VEGAN WINNER Two years in the making, this new vegan cream cheese-style spread is highly rated by the home team.…

LAZY WEEKEND LUNCH Cheese, apple and walnut toastie p104 Cobb salad with cashew cream dressing p102 One-pot greens with barrel-aged feta p72 Gâteau breton p92 SATURDAY MOVIE-NIGHT FEAST Butternut squash, stilton and pecan pastry rolls p63 Chilli con carne meatballs with paprika tortilla chips p38 Charred cabbage with harissa butter and herb salad p29 Banana and date pudding with hazelnut butterscotch p70 REVVED-UP SUNDAY LUNCH Piri-piri roast chicken p86 Cheese and potato pie p46 Stir-fried purple sprouting broccoli with crispy garlic and shallots p28 Classic treacle tart p60…

…two boxes of Italian craft wine, worth over £50, from When in Rome. In Italy, wine lovers visit their local winery with refillable containers to hold the wine, then go home to enjoy it. When in Rome is on a mission to bring this tradition to the UK. It offers Italian craft wine from independent producers in cans, flat bottles and eco-friendly boxes that stay fresh for up to 6 weeks once opened. wheninromewine.com FOR YOUR CHANCE TO WIN... Let us know your thoughts on this month’s issue by emailing us at info@deliciousmagazine.co.uk*…

PUBBY CREDS It’s full of character, with a busy live music schedule, a sea view from the sprawling front garden and its own museum housing owner Charlie Newman and his late father Raymond’s collection of fossils and archaeological finds. THE BOOZE Cider made by Charlie in the back garden and beer from Swanage brewery Hattie Brown’s. ANY FOOD? Locally made pies and pasties keep things strictly traditional. THE WALK Join the South West Coast Path and explore scenic spots Winspit Quarry, Seacombe Cliff or Dancing Ledge along the Jurassic Coast. squareandcompass pub.co.uk…

PORTRAIT: PETER GOODBODY When you cook onions, make sure they’re just turning gold. It’s meditative – you can’t rush that process of caramelising. Onions are a fundamental building block in Indian cooking: if you want a thicker curry and more viscous sauce, chop more onions; if you want a nice high-pitched liquor that’s full of flavour, use fewer onions and more spices. In any case, cook them down until they’re as sweet as Haribos. Look for ancient paths and find a good way through life. That’s what I say to my two daughters. You won’t have sleepless nights if your heart is in the right place. It’s not about achievement or competition, it’s about treating people around you the same as you would want your children to be treated. It’s…

PHOTOGRAPHS: HANNAH HUGHES. FOOD STYLING: JESS MEYER. STYLING: VICTORIA ELDRIDGE It’s a funny time of year, isn’t it? No longer winter, but not quite reliably balmy, beautiful spring. The mornings are still crisp when I walk the dogs. It’s a transitional time, as they say in fashion. The what-to-wear dilemma – shrug off your big coat, but hold tight to scarves, cardigans, warm jackets – is matched by the question of what to eat. “Some days it’s full steam ahead with light soups and salads... Other days, it’s all fondue and fur knickers” After a winter of casseroles (which we must, apparently, always describe as ‘hearty’, in a slightly medieval-merchant manner) and thick soups, I’m longing to dive into a salad… By salad, I don’t mean a simple green salad…

PORTRAITS: CHRIS TERRY, PATRICIA NIVEN. Sarit Packer makes me think of fruit. Sitting opposite her I want to eat ripe watermelons and juicy tomatoes, the sort of ingredients – vibrant, almost alive – that she loves. Half of the duo who are affectionately known in the London food world as ‘the Honeys’, Sarit – together with her husband Itamar Srulovich – opened a tiny restaurant that went on to be very big. “Sitting opposite Sarit, I want to eat ripe watermelons and juicy tomatoes, the sort of vibrant ingredients that she loves” DIANA Honey & Co, just off Tottenham Court Road, opened 10 years ago. The place was kitted out with what looked to be garden furniture (at least I always wobbled a bit on the slatted chairs) and Sarit…

Butternut squash, stilton and pecan pastry rolls PHOTOGRAPHS: DAN JONES. FOOD STYLING: BIANCA NICE. STYLING: MAX ROBINSON “These puff pastry veggie rolls are filled with a delicious combination of sweet and nutty butternut squash, earthy sage and sharp blue cheese. They’re great for gatherings, picnics or as a snack. If you’re not a fan of blue cheese, you can use feta”AINSLEY HARRIOTT Makes 8 rolls Hands-on time 30 min Oven time 50-60 min • 850g butternut squash, peeled, deseeded and cut into 2cm chunks • Olive oil for drizzling • Pinch chilli flakes • 1/2 red onion, finely chopped • 1 small garlic clove, crushed • 1 tbsp chopped sage leaves (or thyme if you prefer) • 1 tbsp finely chopped flatleaf parsley • 1/4 tsp ground nutmeg • 50g pecans or walnuts, roughly chopped • 75g stilton or similar…

PORTRAIT: SAM PELLY. RECIPE: ELLIE & SAM STUDD. FOOD PHOTOGRAPH: BEN DEARNLEY. FOOD STYLING: KIRSTEN JENKINS. STYLING: EMMALY STEWART Crumble feta into a salad and you’re following a tradition that stretches back thousands of years. Some cheese historians claim an early forerunner cameo-ed in Homer’s Odyssey, which describes the cheesemaking exploits of the cyclops Polyphemus before he discovers Odysseus hiding in his cave. Spoiler alert: it doesn’t end well for the one-eyed cheesemaker. The cheese is a jewel in Greece’s culinary crown, with a Protected Designation of Origin (PDO), meaning it must be made in Greece with sheep’s milk, plus up to 30% goat’s milk. The higher the ratio of goat’s milk, the whiter and more piquant the cheese, while 100% sheep’s milk fetas are ivory and richer in flavour.…

PUBLIC-SPIRITED SPIRITS Hawksbill Caribbean Spiced Rum, Harrogate, England 38.8% Sweet notes of vanilla and raisins with spicy nutmeg pervade this blend of Guyana and Trinidad rums. Ten per cent of the profit from each bottle goes to the Barbados Sea Turtle Project to help endangered turtles, including the hawksbill. £23/70cl, hawksbillrum.co.uk; spiritofharrogate.co.uk Sapling London Dry Gin No.2, London, England 40% A ‘climate positive’ gin made from wheat farmed regeneratively by Wildfarmed (wildfarmed.co.uk). A tree is planted for every bottle sold of this fresh, citrussy, juniper-led spirit, which makes a fine, classic G&T. £35/70cl, saplingspirits.com Papillon Sloe Gin, Devon, England 30% This sweet and ever-so-slightly bitter ruby-purple liqueur, made with Papillon’s multi-award-winning Dartmoor gin and Devon sloes, is a warming nip on cold nights – or top it up with sparkling…

Stouts and porters are classic British ales and the most distinctive-looking beers on the bar, pouring dark browns and black with a creamy white foam. It’s the grain used for the beer that gives the colour (and a lot of the flavour), and thinking about what happens in cooking helps explain the process better. Barley is the main brewing grain, with wheat and oats also common. Barley needs to be turned into malt before it’s brewed with, and a key part of that process happens in a kiln, where the grain is roasted. As with a slice of bread under the grill, the longer the grain is cooked, the darker it gets – it’s the same Maillard/browning effect. The kiln is where a lot of beer’s base flavours come from,…

Vegan nachos Spoon the hot ragù over a tray of tortilla chips, then top with gently warmed cashew ‘cheese’ sauce. Serve with pickled jalapeños and guacamole. Vegan shepherd’s pie Put the ragù in a pie dish and cover with mashed potato made with olive oil and plant-based milk, then bake until golden and bubbling. Speedy vegan pies Put the ragù in individual pie dishes, top with shop-bought vegan puff pastry (Jus-Rol do blocks and sheets), then bake until risen and golden.…

ILLUSTRATIONS: GETTY IMAGES, ALICE CLEARY • ONE-DAY-OLD BREAD Garlic/herb bread heaven! Adding a generous spread of flavoured butter and giving it a quick bake will transform that slightly stale loaf into a new suppertime star. Consider a sweet version with warm spices, citrus zest and vanilla whipped into butter with brown sugar, honey or maple syrup. Day-old bread is also good for bread and butter puddings, French toast and apple charlotte. • TWO-DAY-OLD BREAD This is the sweet spot for all your crumb and crouton needs. Dice or tear the bread into bite-size pieces, or whizz to fine crumbs. Up the flavour by adding hard cheese scraps, nuts or herbs. Fry in oil with garlic, chilli or miso for a crunchy topping that goes with everything from pasta to seasonal veg. • THREE…

“These pages are full of knowledge that food editor Jen and I have gathered as we’ve tested recipes this month. We have two pages of general know-how and three more packed with bread tips (and a great reader offer) to help with the technical bake special on p112” JESS MEYER, ACTING DEP FOOD EDITOR // The lowdown LENTILS Here’s how to use 1 cup (200g) of the four most common varieties PRODUCE HIGHLIGHT Stinging nettles It’s the bane of gardeners and ramblers, but when handled with care, this abundant nuisance of a weed can be your culinary friend HOW TO PREPARE  Wear thick rubber gloves and protect your arms and legs with sleeves and high socks. Pick the young tips of the nettles – just the top 4-6 leaves. Wash…

Your buying choices make a difference Raised the right way The Ethical Butcher goes above and beyond to ensure the highest possible welfare standards on the regenerative farms it buys from, not being content with terms such as ‘free range’ and ‘outdoor reared’, which have no precise legal meaning. Their pork loin chops from Redwoods Farm in Devon, from pigs not fed on controversial soy-based feed, were some of the juiciest, most flavoursome we’ve ever had. Swap them in on steak night. £13.20 for two large chops (minimum order £37), ethicalbutcher.co.uk SPREAD THE WORD Though they may be a bit pricey, Nut Blend’s nut butters are palm oil and additive-free. Our favourite is the maca, pecan & almond – it has a deeply roasted flavour that kept our taster going…

You can freeze all or most of the recipe. Unless stated otherwise, freeze the finished dish for up to 3 months. Defrost and heat until piping hot throughout. Vegetarian Vegan Gluten free Dairy free Recipes with the above symbols are suitable for special diets provided you choose appropriate free-from ingredients – check the label. Other recipes can easily be adapted for special diets – see our Know-how and Easy Swaps tips. Standard kit Our recipes assume cooks will have a food processor/blender/stick blender, an electric stand mixer/ hand mixer and a selection of pans, tins and casseroles, as well as compostable baking paper and kitchen paper. We give alternative methods for combining ingredients if possible, and specify the size of dish/tin needed if it’s relevant. We also think a digital…