Table of contents for November 2021 in Delicious UK

November is... a month of looking forward. In an era of life on demand, when events unfold at a pace on social media (places we could have been, excitement we might have missed), when a world of music is available at the touch of a fingertip and we can, if we so choose, sit and watch 10 episodes of a series back to back, there’s something missing: that charged, eager feeling of, yes, anticipation. This is your chance to bring it back – an issue full of ideas for gifts, meals to make now or plan for later, sweet delicacies to bake… And it all starts with that first fragrant bite of Christmas: a mince pie, warm from the oven. See p54 for Debora Robertson’s slow-cooked cherry mincemeat recipe and…

“I don’t want your life story as a preface to a carrot cake recipe, thank you very much” When you’re a Brit cooking from an American recipe, things can get lost in translation. Shrimp instead of prawn I can live with; cilantro for coriander is also fair enough (it’s the Spanish term). But eggplant? It sounds childish – it’s like saying ‘red ball’ for tomato. At least aubergine has a touch of class. Not for nothing have the US and UK been described as ‘two nations separated by a common language’. When it comes to the recipe preamble, though, it’s no laughing matter. The typical style of recipe on a trad UK food website speaks volumes about British culture. Instructions are direct, comfort food a priority. It’s all slow-cooker, storecupboard,…

THE FESTIVE ONE Advent: Festive German bakes to celebrate the coming of Christmas In this jewel of a book, Anja Dunk shares the rich assortment of biscuits baked to create a festive German Bunter Teller (colourful plate), plus other treats and traditions. Her photos and linocuts of cosy kitchens and snowy forests are magic: gift it early to enjoy now and for years to come. Quadrille £25 THE RIVETING ONE Sambal Shiok: The Malaysian Cookbook Mandy Yin, owner of London’s Sambal Shiok Laksa Bar, shares how to make her signature curry laksa and chicken satay burger, alongside recipes for home-style dishes, snacks and sambals – the key chilli condiment. Her delve into Malaysian food’s history, coupled with personal memories, make this a book to pore over. Quadrille £25 THE INVENTIVE…

How to tell if they’re fresh Cranberries should be shiny-red, firm and rattle in their packaging – not a trace of softness. They’ll keep well for at least two weeks in the fridge. Can you freeze them? Yes. Some advice will tell you to open-freeze the berries (that’s where you spread them out on trays so they’re not touching, freeze them, then pack into bags, label and return to the freezer). The aim of this method is to stop the fruit sticking together during freezing, but with cranberries we’ve found there’s no need. As long as they’re fresh, you can freeze them in the box you buy them in and they shouldn’t stick together (and even if they do, it doesn’t matter). Like all berries, they soften a little as…

Cut 2 discs of baking paper to fit the base, then cut a length of baking paper 10cm longer than the circumference of the tin and 5cm taller than the tin depth. Along the long edge, fold over a strip 2cm wide, then snip along the folded edge every 2cm. Butter the tin well and lay a disc of baking paper in the base. Then line the sides of the tin with the long strip of baking paper, fitting the snipped edge into the base so it rests on the baking paper and pressing the fold into the edges of the tin. Add the second disc to the base, covering the snipped edges, then brush it all with a little vegetable oil. The tin is now ready to use.…

Last year, we experienced a Christmas unlike any other. It was quieter, simpler, more contemplative. We put on a brave face, embraced Zoom and Skype, and laid the table only for those who lived under the same roof. While for some it might have been a secret relief to swerve the traditional excess and potential for extended-family tensions, for many it was a little too ascetic for our “waheeey, bring on the tinsel” tastes. So while I imagine a lot of us landed in January thinking we would be more thoughtful, less extravagant in future, I suspect this year we may not be able to resist the desire to go all out with the full bacchanalian, dancing-on-the-piano, eggnog-for-breakfast extravaganza, to make up for the lost good times. “A great many…

“With a place assured in the classic cocktail pantheon, the brandy crusta’s heritage goes back to mid-1800s New Orleans, where it was named after its crusted rim of sugar.” KNOWHOW Buy simple syrup or make it – combine equal weights of caster sugar and hot water, stir to dissolve, then leave to cool. Brandy crusta Serves 2 • Lemon wedge & twists to decorate • 105ml brandy • 15ml orange curaçao (or Cointreau) • 15ml maraschino cherry liqueur (or kirsch or cherry brandy) • 30ml freshly squeezed lemon juice • 15ml simple syrup (see Know-how) • 4 dashes Angostura bitters For the sugar rims, push a lemon wedge onto the rim of a glass, run it all the way around, then dip the rim of the glass in a saucer of sugar. Fill a cocktail shaker with…

Christmas is a key time for stilton makers, with some selling a hefty 40% of their annual production – they’re busy in late summer so the cheese can mature in time. The protected cheese can only be made in Derbyshire, Leicestershire and Nottinghamshire using pasteurised cow’s milk – and only five companies still make it today. HUNTING THE BIG FIVE Long Clawson and Tuxford & Tebbutt (Leics) are the country’s biggest stilton houses, making thousands of tonnes a year. They make a lot of supermarket own-label stiltons, which tend to be sold young at 8-10 weeks when crumbly and tangy – they can also be slightly bitter or metallic. The smallest stilton maker is Hartington Creamery (Derbys), which makes a lighter, fresher style of cheese, aged for nine weeks. In…

“It’s important to celebrate festivals in times of uncertainty because it gives hope” I grew up in Kenya. Our family was neither small nor quiet. There were six in my nuclear clan, but the tradition of living with extended relations meant there was both the cosiness and chaos of anywhere between 15 and 25 people in our house at any one time. Solitude was impossible, even in the family prayer room where the discordant crank of my grandmother’s harmonium never ceased. She was social and ritualistic in equal measure so our home played host to a multitude of religious gatherings, my favourite of which was Diwali. For a child, the festivities were particularly alluring because while they had religious significance for both Hindus and Sikhs, they also allowed for unabashed…

Chicory gratin Serves 5-6 as a side Hands-on time 40 min Simmering time 20 min MAKE AHEAD Assemble the gratin a few hours ahead. Cool, then cover and chill. Bake in a 160ºC fan/gas 4 oven for 30-40 minutes until piping hot and golden. KNOWHOW Chaource is a soft French white-rind cheese. Buy it from cheesemongers and larger supermarkets. If you can’t find it, use another similar cheese such as brie. Chaource isn’t vegetarian but British brie-style cheeses such as Somerset brie often are. Use another white dessert wine such as monbazillac if you prefer. • 600ml whole milk • 1 bay leaf • 2 thyme sprigs • 2 garlic cloves, crushed • 70g unsalted butter • 800g chicory (red, white or a mix), halved lengthways • 8 shallots, peeled and halved • 6 tbsp muscatel wine (see…

What I’m rating THE NEW MICROPLANE BOWL GRATER What it’s good for Making light work of slaws and fuelling my obsession with grated cheese on everything, plus it’s a handy tool for turning cauliflower florets into ‘rice’. You can use it over any 16cm diameter bowl – where it will anchor safely for non-slip grating – or put it at an angle in a larger bowl and let the non-slip end hold it steady. Smaller, neater and much easier to clean than a box grater. The bonus? Microplane graters are made with ultra-sharp, long-lasting stainless steel blades so they can cope with any hard veg or fruit – even frozen butter for making flaky pastry. Buy it £19.95 from John Lewis Online butchers If you don’t have a local butcher,…

“I’ve cooked in lots of fantastic kitchens but cooking outside over wood or charcoal is something far more engaging. It allows you to forge a connection with the food you eat that you could never make using a fan-assisted oven inside a house or restaurant.” Hot-smoked trout on rye toasts with beets, soft-boiled eggs and mustard & dill sauce Serves 4-6 as a starter Hands-on time 30 min, plus 45 min curing and lighting/ heating the barbecue Simmering time 6½ min Specialist kit Charcoal BBQ; sustainable smoking chips/ chunks (hickory, oak or apple) MAKE AHEAD The fish can be cured up to 12 hours ahead. Rinse and dry, then store uncovered in the fridge. The outer surface will develop a firmer texture and absorb more smoky flavour. Cover leftover fish…

Spiced coconut salmon Serves 1 Hands-on time 20 min Simmering time 5 min • ½ small red onion, sliced • Juice ½ lemon • 1 tsp coconut or veg oil • 1 sustainable salmon fillet with skin • 1 garlic clove, crushed • 1.5cm piece ginger, finely grated • 1½ tsp curry powder (mild or hot) • ½ tsp tamarind paste (or juice ½ lime) • 200ml coconut milk • ½ tsp sugar (optional) • ½-1 red chilli, sliced • ½ small bunch coriander, leaves picked • ½ tsp nigella seeds • Steamed basmati or jasmine rice to serve 1 Mix the onion and lemon juice in a small bowl with a pinch of salt. Set aside. 2 Heat half the oil in a small frying pan over a high heat. Fry the salmon skin-side down for 2 minutes, then flip and cook for…

Cooking is for everyone If we could get everyone in the world cooking we would. Food brings people together – families, friends, communities – and it’s a pleasure. Get children involved in decorating the gingerbread person on p64, because even baked goods deserve a Christmas jumper! You can trust us Every recipe is rigorously tested by our food team, at least twice, using domestic ovens, so you can be confident our recipes work every time. When it comes to reviews, we only recommend gifts for loved ones (see p18) that we deem to be good quality and worth the price tag. Keeping it simple Eating locally and seasonally, whenever you can, really is a no-brainer. We aim to use easy-to-find seasonal ingredients. We’ll tell you where to find unusual ones…

BEST NEWCOMER Woo Tan Scran, Liverpool A vegan Chinese chippie. wootanscran.info BEST RESTAURANTS In Wales Gigi Gao’s Favourite Authentic Chinese, Swansea Lesser-known Northern Chinese dishes and old favourites. favouritechinese.co.uk In Scotland Harajuku Kitchen, Edinburgh Japanese family recipes with Tokyo-inspired flair. harajukukitchen.co.uk In Northern Ireland Bia Rebel Ramen, Belfast The signature ramen takes two days to prepare. biarebel.com In England The Little Viet Kitchen, London Buy chef Thuy Diem Pham’s food UK-wide as recipe kits. thelittlevietkitchen.com BEST DUMPLING Din Tai Fung, London, It won last year too. dintaifung-uk.com Find the full list of winners at thegcas.co.uk Nearly 50% of coffee lovers, says a poll, would rather go without than let someone else make it – and 14% believe themselves to be a brewing expert 18% don’t trust their partner to brew…

Cheer-up dish? Haddock, chips and mushy peas. I make it to bring a bit of England into the house. Favourite family recipe? Venison stew with gorgonzola scones. Signature dish? I created jolanabarandgrill.com because I have too many favourites and didn’t want to forget any. I also have an Instagram account@jolana_bar_and_grill. I’m big on local produce and promoting local businesses. Treasured food memory? Lunch outside of Rome, starting with breads and olives, then mussels, roast pork and fantastic wine. Kitchen adventure? Having 14 people for Christmas dinner. Nine of them didn’t speak English, and trying to explain turkey was amusing. Thank goodness for charades! Top tip? The curved edge of a scalloped cookie cutter easily removes fish scales. Cooking disaster? Lemon meringue pie gets me every time. Favourite condiment? Mustard, especially…

“When I was ill I realised just how much food meant to me. It’s domestic and creative. It anchors me — gives me safety” Stanley Tucci has just finished lunch. “An omelette-frittata kind of thing. I didn’t have much time,” he explains. Made with olive oil or, since he now lives in England, butter? I ask. “Both,” he laughs. “But if I had to choose between them, it would be olive oil.” Tucci’s love of cooking and eating is intense. In his recent memoir, Taste: My Life Through Food (Fig Tree £20), he lists the contents of his school lunch box, packed daily by his mother when he was growing up in Katonah, a town 40 miles north of Manhattan. It would usually be leftovers from the previous night’s dinner,…

Rick’s Christmas cake Serves 12-16 Hands-on time 45 min, plus overnight soaking and cooling – then, later, overnight drying of the marzipan and icing Oven time 4 hours 15-30 min Specialist kit 20cm round deep-sided cake tin, fully lined (see ‘how to line the Christmas cake tin’ overleaf) MAKE AHEAD The cake will keep for several weeks if you ‘feed’ it. Make the marzipan and cover the cake at least a day before icing. KNOWHOW The addition of glycerine to royal icing prevents it setting rock hard when dry. The optional blue food colouring cancels out any yellow colour in the icing, giving an extra-white finish. EASY SWAPS If not eating the cake within a few days of icing, use pasteurised egg whites instead of fresh in the royal icing.…

“Stir-up Sunday – a tradition rooted in the church calendar and Victorian custom – is the day to make your Christmas pudding. It refers to the custom of stirring the mixture from east to west to signify the journey of the Three Kings. The date falls on the last Sunday before Advent – this year 21 November – and it’s the perfect opportunity to make the Christmas trilogy of pudding, cake and mincemeat before the season takes over. My family loves to stir the pudding because we love an occasion. I like a pud that’s lighter and zestier than the classic black cannonball, and this recipe is fresh from my latest set of tweaks. The citrus zest and apple give it a lift, and grated parsnip adds lightness – but…

Party-size prawn cocktail Serves 6 Hands-on time 20 min Oven time 10 min MAKE AHEAD Make the sauce up to 2 days beforehand, then cover and chill. EASY SWAPS Swap prawns and langoustines for crayfish, or use sustainable frozen lobster tails (you can buy them at Iceland). • 500g pack raw sustainable langoustines • 200g mayonnaise • 100g crème fraîche • 3 tbsp tomato ketchup • Juice 1 lime • A few dashes Worcestershire sauce • ¼ tsp cayenne pepper • 2 x 400g packs sustainable cold-water cooked peeled prawns, defrosted • 1 radicchio di chioggia (or use 3 small red chicory) • 80g bag wild rocket • 2 avocados, stoned and diced • 2 large salad onions, sliced • 2-3 tbsp sweet chilli sauce • Handful roughly chopped soft herbs – coriander, dill, chives… • Lemon/lime wedges and brown bread and butter to serve…

The big trad roast for a crowd Roast beef and yorkshire puddings with port sauce Serves 10-12 Hands-on time 30 min, plus cooling and resting Oven time 1 hour 45 min Specialist kit 12 hole yorkshire pudding/muffin tin KNOWHOW This beef rib is called a standing joint because the meat is butchered to sit upright on a platter. Unlike some bone-in cuts, it’s also easy to carve. Pre-order it from your butcher, who will french trim and tie it. Ask for some back fat tied on to keep the meat succulent. The number of ribs varies (3.7kg-4kg will be 4-5 ribs). Alternatively, order a boneless joint that’s rolled and tied. • 2 large onions, cut into chunks • 2 large carrots, cut into chunks • 2 celery sticks, cut into large chunks • 1/2…

“I know the countdown has started when those Christmassy aromas from the oven fill the house. Make these reimagined classics part of your new repertoire”JESS MEYER, ACTING DEPUTY FOOD ED Chocolate Baileys cake Serves 16-24 Hands-on time 45 min, plus cooling and chilling Oven time 30-40 min Specialist kit 2 x 20cm round cake tins, greased with butter and lined MAKE AHEAD The white chocolate sponges can be made well in advance. Wrap well and freeze for up to 3 months. Defrost at room temperature before assembling. KNOWHOW For the buttercream, the butter and mascarpone need to be at room temperature before whipping or the buttercream will split. If it does, warm a small portion of the mixture (about 4 tbsp) in a small pan, then mix back into the…

Slow-cooked chickpeas with harissa and crispy halloumi Serves 4 Hands-on time 10 min Simmering time 1 hour 20 min MAKE AHEAD Cook the chickpeas and freeze for up to 3 months, then defrost and reheat. Fry the halloumi to order. • 3 tbsp olive oil • 2 onions, halved and sliced • 1 large red pepper, sliced • 1 garlic clove, crushed • 2 tsp ground cumin • 2 tsp coriander seeds, crushed • 400g tin chopped tomatoes • 2 x 400g tins chickpeas, drained (don’t rinse) • 2-3 tbsp Belazu Rose Harissa Paste (see opposite page) • 1 tbsp tomato purée • 1 tsp red wine vinegar • Large pinch sugar • 220g block halloumi, cubed • Cornflour (optional) • Flatbreads, parsley and/or dill and greek yogurt to serve 1 Heat 2 tbsp of the oil in a hob-safe casserole (with a tight lid).…

Instant espresso powder (from chocolate Baileys cake p104) • SPEEDY SPICE RUB Mix 1 tbsp each espresso powder, chilli powder and brown sugar. Add 1 tsp salt, ½ tsp onion powder, ½ tsp garlic powder and ½ tsp cocoa powder. Add some ground cumin, cinnamon or cayenne if you like. Rub over pork ribs or steak before grilling, or add a splash of oil and toss with carrots or parsnips before roasting. • CLASSY VINAIGRETTE Whisk 1 tbsp sherry or red wine vinegar, 1 tsp honey, 1 tsp espresso powder and a pinch of salt. Slowly whisk in about 150ml olive oil. Season well and use to dress crunchy cabbage or charred greens. Amontillado sherry (from carrots with sticky sherry dressing p74) • POULTRY BOOSTER The rich, nutty flavour of amontillado sherry goes…

As well as salt and water, brining can also add flavourings The science-y bit 1 What is brining? Originally a Scandinavian technique, brining involves submerging poultry, pork or fish in a salty liquid (containing about 3-5% salt), which seasons all the parts of the meat it comes in contact with and helps keep it juicy and tender as it cooks. 2 How does brining work? The brine dissolves some of the protein structure of the meat fibres, so they contract less during cooking, keeping things tender. Food scientists have worked out that the chloride ions in the salt act on the meat fibres, opening them up so the brine can pass into the meat. The process involved is not osmosis, as many think, but diffusion – moving from high to…

1. TONY’S CHOCOLONELY COUNTDOWN CALENDAR A jumbo Advent calendar with 25 ‘Tiny Tony’s’ from the company that pays higher prices for traceable cocoa beans and aims to end slavery in the chocolate industry. Taste credentials Dark milk pretzel toffee and milk caramel sea salt are among the 10 creamy flavours. Best thing Positive daily messages include a QR code to a cocoa documentary and a prompt to help others with Christmas shopping. £12.99, Sainsbury’s, Waitrose, Ocado, Booths, Oxfam, John Lewis, independent retailers and tonyschocolonely.com 2. LAKELAND LIGHT-UP ADVENT NATIVITY SCENE This reusable wooden calendar’s Christmas story design is a reminder of the religious significance of Advent. Taste credentials They’re up to you! Fill the 24 drawers with your own treats, festive jokes or toys. Best thing Great for starting a…

DARK RUM + DARK CHOCOLATE  A wonderful marriage of rich, sweet, lingering flavours. Rum has the power to take on even quite bitter chocolate. SHERRY OR MADEIRA + STILTON  Amber, medium sherries such as amontillado and oloroso, as well as the darker sweeter madeiras, have a savoury nutty quality that’s a wow with salty stilton. SPARKLING SHIRAZ + TURKEY OR GOOSE  It’s not for everyone but this off-dry sparkling red has a pepperiness that chimes in with the sausages and bacon rolls, as well as the bird. ASTI + CHRISTMAS PUDDING  Lighter than port or spirits, sweet asti from northwest Italy cuts through the richness with its fresh, sugared green grape flavour and crisp bubbles. CIDER + LEFTOVERS  A juicy medium-dry cider makes a star pairing for cold Boxing Day…

THIS MONTH’S STAR EMAIL WINS... …two boxes of premium red and white Portuguese wine worth over £50, by the experts from The Wine Show (Amazon Prime). These delicious wines stay fresher for longer thanks to their box format, which produces less CO2 than glass bottles. For more information, visit thewine show.com/ boxed-wine FOR YOUR CHANCE TO WIN... Let us know your thoughts on this month’s issue by emailing us at info@delicious magazine.co.uk* Star email From: Catherine Addison I agree with Russell Norman (right) in Talking Point [Oct, p17]. I have the Pasta Grannies cookbook and every recipe I’ve tried works. On holiday recently, my son took us to a restaurant where the service was impeccable but the tasting portions were so minute; after each long explanation the food was gone…

Cook it like delicious. this month for a chance to win a Panasonic 4-in-1 Combination Microwave Oven Say hello to fast, fresh, gourmet cooking at home. The Panasonic NN-CS89 4-in-1 Combination Microwave Oven features powerful steam cooking, microwaving, grilling and a combination oven in one sleek, compact design. A variety of automatic programmes and Inverter technology enables cooks of all levels to enjoy healthy cooking with ease. panasonic.com/uk GET COOKING AND SHARE A PHOTO WITH US by 30 November 2021* WIN! Prize worth £519 TO ENTER and for Ts&Cs, go to delicious magazine.co.uk/ cooktherecipe…

My mum sacrificed so much to provide for me and my siblings. She was always the voice saying, “Travel and see the world – when you settle down, make sure you do it without any regrets.” She had amazing taste in food, too. She taught me how to make mushroom ragout and simple pancake batter, how to cook abalone – and I never saw her waste a thing. I was bright-eyed, bushy-tailed and ready for adventure when I came to the UK. I was 23 and it was meant to be just for a year – here I am two decades later. I wanted to discover the world, and it was particularly exciting to be able to access Europe easily, as New Zealand is on its own. But we’ve lost…

The refreshing salad starter Goat’s cheese salad with cranberry dressing Serves 2-3 Hands-on time 30 min MAKE AHEAD Prepare the croutons and toast the walnuts up to 2 hours ahead and set aside (separately) but don’t cover. Prep the oranges, cover and set aside (no need to chill). Make the dressing ahead, too – it will keep in the fridge for up to 3 days. • Sandwich-sized olive ciabatta loaf, sliced • 50g shelled walnuts • Oil for frying • 150g goat’s cheese log with rind, cut into 1.5cm slices • 2 oranges, peeled and cut into segments, any juice reserved • 80g bag watercress For the dressing • 3 tbsp cranberry sauce (see recipe, p43) • 1 tbsp syrupy balsamic vinegar • 3 tbsp olive oil 1 In a large dry frying pan, toast the bread over a…

“What I love about Christmas cake is feeding it with booze. I prefer using fortified wine because brandy or whisky are too strong, although last Christmas I used vintage port and my wife claimed you could get tipsy just from the smell of the cake. I’m a fan of proper marzipan and royal icing too. In the early days of our restaurant, I spent a winter on a cake-decorating course. I was the only man and all the women were unbelievably skilled. Why they were on the course, I don’t know. I still cringe at the memory that I chose to make a square Christmas cake, even though we all had turntables. As a beginner, if you ever think of making a square cake, don’t.”…

Makes 800g/serves 16 Make this on the day or on Christmas Eve (cover the surface with baking paper to prevent a skin forming). Melt 50g butter in a saucepan over a medium heat. Stir in 50g plain flour and cook, stirring, for a couple of minutes. Slowly pour in 600ml whole milk and bring to the boil, stirring constantly, then lower the heat to a simmer and cook gently for 10 minutes. Stir in 40-50g sugar and 4 tbsp brandy. Pour into a jug to serve. Per serving (50g) 77kcals, 4g fat (2.5g saturated), 1.6g protein, 6.6g carbs (4.2g sugars), 0.1g salt, 0.1g fibre…

The starter or lunch to share Every course is covered here, with more options besides. Serve the parmesan fritters or the salad to start; serve the salad on its own as a light lunch or as part of a buffet on Boxing Day; choose to go light for pudding with a zesty granita or more substantial with a chocolate torte… TV presenter and chef Matt’s wonderful menu ideas will help clear the decks of festive leftovers, too “Ever popular, the cobb salad is pretty substantial as salads go. Part of its appeal is in the way it’s displayed in the bowl and mixed together at the table” American-style cobb salad Serves 4 Hands-on time 40 min For the dressing • 60g roquefort cheese, crumbled • 3½ tbsp buttermilk, plus extra if needed…

“Who doesn’t love garlic bread? And this tear-and-share style is always a winner. I’ve written the recipe for 36 rolls because it’s an easier quantity of dough to work with. What I like to do is make up two trays of rolls, then whack one in the freezer, ready to bake another day – you won’t regret it.”BRITISH FOOD LEGEND JAMIE OLIVER Scrumptious garlic bread “Being with loved ones has never felt so important, and great food is the perfect excuse to get together” Makes 36 rolls; serves 12 Hands-on time 35 min, plus rising/proving Oven time 20 min MAKE AHEAD You can make the dough the day before and let it prove (have its final rise) in the fridge overnight. With the second tray of garlic bread, shape and…

Gin & tonic tart with candied lemons Serves 12 Hands-on time 45 min, plus chilling and cooling Oven time 30 min Specialist kit 22cm springform cake tin, greased and lined MAKE AHEAD Prepare the tart and candied lemons a day ahead, then cover and chill. Assemble before serving. DON’T WASTE IT Freeze egg whites, labelled, for up to 3 months. Defrost to use. For the curd • 300g caster sugar • 8 medium free-range eggs, plus 4 yolks (see Don’t Waste It) • 250g unsalted butter, chopped • Finely grated zest and juice 3 lemons and 1 lime, plus 1 extra lime, thinly sliced, to serve • 2 tsp juniper berries • 2 gelatine leaves (platinum grade) For the almond pastry • 50g ground almonds • 185g plain flour • 40g icing sugar, sifted • 125g chilled unsalted butter, cubed…

MAKE THEM GLUTEN FREE Replace the flour with plain gluten-free flour and 1 tsp xanthan gum. Gluten-free flour mixes sometimes need a little more liquid to come together. If the pastry looks dry, add more chilled water, 1 tsp at a time, to bring it together. MAKE THEM VEGAN Replace the butter with a plant-based butter alternative (Vegan Block, Flora Plant B+tter...). Omit the egg and add 2 tbsp chilled cider vinegar. Continue as in the main recipe. Brush the assembled pies with oat or almond milk instead of egg.…

Creamy mushroom soup with madeira Serves 3-4 as a starter or 2-3 for lunch Hands-on time 15 min Simmering time 15 min EASY SWAPS Use dry sherry, port or red vermouth instead of madeira – or leave it out if you prefer. KNOWHOW Plant-based crème fraîche and cream substitutes are available in larger supermarkets, health food stores and online from ocado.co.uk. • 2 tbsp olive oil • 300g chestnut mushrooms, quartered • 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped • 1 large celery stick, finely chopped • 3 tbsp madeira (see Easy Swaps) • 600ml mushroom stock (from a cube or stock pot) • 200ml plant-based cream (we used Oatly! Creamy Oat Fraiche – or use crème fraîche if you don’t need it to be vegan) • 1-2 tbsp lemon juice • Small handful flatleaf parsley, leaves picked, to serve • Toasted…

Chocolate and caramel popcorn  trifle Serves 8 Hands-on time 30 min, plus cooling and 3 hours chilling MAKE AHEAD Make the trifle to the end of step 5 up to 6 hours ahead and chill the base. Top with the whipped cream and popcorn praline before serving. Leftovers will keep, covered and chilled, for 1-2 days, although the crispy chocolate layer will soften. EASY SWAPS Don’t fancy making praline (step 5)? Use a caramel popcorn instead. DON’T WASTE IT Whisk the unused egg whites with a pinch of sugar/salt and freeze in a labelled airtight container for up to 3 months. • 150g dark chocolate, chopped • 150g Rice Krispies or cornflakes (check they’re gluten free if you need them to be) • Butter for greasing • 220g caster sugar • 80g sweet popcorn • 300ml…

Spice-brined pork chops Serves 4 Hands-on time 15 min, plus cooling and 1 hour brining Oven time 8-10 min • 4 thick pork chops (about 250-300g each) • Vegetable oil for frying • 4 tbsp salt flakes • 3 tbsp light brown sugar • ½ garlic bulb (cut horizontally in half) • 2 bay leaves • 2 thyme sprigs • 15 black peppercorns • 15 juniper berries 1 Put everything apart from the chops and oil in a large pan with 250ml water and bring to the boil, stirring. Remove from the heat, add 750ml cold water, then leave to cool completely. 2 Add the chops to the cooled brine so they’re covered by the liquid, then chill for 1 hour. 3 Heat the oven to 180°C fan/ gas 6.…

1 THE PARTY WHITES Le Manoir du Baron Viognier, Vin de France 13% is a brilliant bargain and perfect for parties. A fresh, aromatic viognier, it has an appealing apricot and orange flavour and finishes on a juicy but dry note. £4.70, Asda Adnam’s Pecorino 2020, Terre di Chieti, Italy 13% has a hedgerow blossom scent and hint of almond over peachy fruit. It’s whistle-clean, light and bound to be popular with a crowd. A sophisticated white for the price. £7.99, adnams.co.uk – minimum order six bottles Marks & Spencer Classics No.7 Vinho Verde 2020, Portugal 10% is a sprightly, lime-soused dry white made from a blend of northern Portugal’s grape varieties and delivering a really refreshing pour. Note it’s relatively low in alcohol, too. £7 2 THE POSH WHITE Hill-Smith…

1. CHEESE ACCOMPANIMENT Damson fruit cheese, Rosebud Preserves What the judges said This Yorkshire-made paste was hailed for its warm, deep plum aromas, smooth texture and well balanced sweet and tart flavours, making it “a fabulous addition to any cheeseboard”. £5.50/113g, rosebudreserves.co.uk 2. PANETTONE PLUS Tenuta Marmorelle limoncello panettone What the judges said From the “sunny yellow crumb” and light-yet-chewy texture to the rich butter flavour of the cake contrasting with the tangy limoncello cream running through, everything about this panettone charmed the tasting panel. £14.35/500g,tenutamarmorelle.com and farmshops 3. CHEESEBOARD WONDER Leeds blue What the judges said Fresh, nutty, acidic and slightly piquant flavours balance with the creamy sweetness of the ewe’s milk in this “high achieving blue cheese, the creation of an Italian living in West Yorkshire. £8.50/200g,thecourtyarddairy.co.uk; find more…

• Mix ’n’ match dishes from Michel Roux Jr, Rick Stein, José Pizarro and more • Diana Henry meets… legend Nigel Slater • Marcus Wareing’s vegetarian winners • Author Sebastian Faulks on what’s in his fridge • Asma Khan on cooking for Paul Rudd PLUS • Puddings made from Christmas chocolates • Every (good) way to cook a roastie • How to cook a turkey on the barbie • Boxing Day über-buffet ON SALE 1 DECEMBER…