Table of contents for February 2019 in Delicious UK

RECIPE: JEN BEDLOE. PHOTOGRAPH: TOBY SCOTT. FOOD STYLING: SOPHIE AUSTEN-SMITH. STYLING: OLIVIA WARDLE What makes you hungry? Is it enticing, almost edible magazine pictures? Is it how a recipe is described on the page? Is it the smell of something sense-tinglingly aromatic simmering on the hob or baking in the oven? Or is it that moment of bringing the finished dish to the table where the drama of the big reveal gets everyone’s juices flowing? (A challenge on a Monday night, but it is possible.) I imagine it’s a combination of all these, and I see it as our job to entice you from magazine page to kitchen, encouraging you to dream more about the things you want to cook and love to cook,…

The hot new restaurant If you’ve never tasted Tom Kitchin’s brilliant but not showy-offy food, you might want to make 2019 the year. He and his wife Michaela (right) have opened a new joint, Southside Scran, in Edinburgh. It’s moved on a step from the open-kitchen trend: this restaurant has an open rotisserie. Imagine the smells. I can’t wait to go… Look out, too, for his new pub with rooms, The Bonnie Badger in Gullane, on the coast east of Edinburgh. southsidescran.com; bonniebadger.com Dinner on a London double-decker? It sounds gimmicky but it works. The sleek black Bustronome is no ordinary sightseeing bus – as well as serving smart, French-inspired meals, it has a glass roof so you won’t miss the central London sights. Diners are welcomed with a glass…

THE ‘WOMEN’S COFFEE’ THAT’S GIVING FEMALE COFFEE FARMERS A BOOST Fairtrade Fortnight starts on 25 February and this year’s campaign, She Deserves, is about helping women farmers grow better products – and get a better deal. The campaign is run by the Fairtrade Foundation, formed in the UK in 1992 by charities including Oxfam, Christian Aid and Traidcraft. The charity works to empower small-scale farmers in developing countries, ensuring they’re paid a fair price. GIVING WOMEN CONTROL Eighty per cent of the world’s coffee is produced in developing countries by smallholder farmers, who typically live on less than $2 a day. Many are women, but they’re often not members of co-ops and don’t receive training or direct payment. In 2012, the chairman of Kabng’etuny Farmers Coffee Co-operative Society in Kenya,…

We’ve made it a whole lot easier with the brand new delicious. Meal Planner. All you have to do is take just a few moments to tell us the following… 1 What you love to eat Italian? Thai? Indian? Chinese? A mix of everything? 2 What you want planned for you Just dinners or all three meals 3 Your dietary requrements Whether you’re looking for, say, vegetarian recipes or gluten/ dairy-free ideas, and whether you want to limit the number of calories NEXT… Once you’ve done that you’ll instantly have a batch of recipes selected just for you, to match what you’ve asked for. Even better, you can put all the ingredients straight into your online shopping basket – and edit out anything you already have. It’s as easy as…

PHOTOGRAPHS: LISA LEVART, ALEX LUCK, ISTOCK/GETTY IMAGES EARLY DAYS When we were growing up, my sister, who’s four years older than me, used to pretend she was a cook on television – I was always the sous chef! WARM WELCOME I was lucky to grow up in a family in which everything was homemade. Mum could make a fantastic meal out of anything in the fridge. My memories are of stews, soups and cassoulet. We had an Aga, and if Mum was out at work there would be a note on the table saying: “Supper is ready on the bottom shelf.” FINDING A FOCUS Initially I wanted to do something in fashion. I’d pick up a wooden spoon and bake while I thought about it. I also planned to travel,…

PHOTOGRAPH: MAJA SMEND. FOOD STYLING: LOTTIE COVELL. STYLING: TONY HUTCHINSON FILM CHOICE FOR FEBRUARY... The Princess and The Frog (2009). To get you in the mood for Mardi Gras at the start of next month, try Disney’s beautiful back-to-basics charmer. Hard-working Tiana dreams of opening a restaurant in early 1920s New Orleans. To raise cash, she caters a Mardi Gras party, only to be turned into a frog when she kisses a prince trapped by the magic of the evil Dr Facilier, aka the Shadow Man. WHY KAY LOVES IT... It’s easy to dismiss cartoons as kids’ movies, but that overlooks the craft that goes into making a film so full of ideas. The hand-drawn animation lures you in, with touches of Lady and the Tramp and Bambi, and…

“Rich in colour and flavour, pomegranates are remarkably versatile, and their jewel-like seeds and vibrant juice lend themselves to either sweet or savoury dishes. Here I’ve showcased those assets in two very different recipes, both with an eastern twist. I’ve sprinkled a whole chicken with fragrant za’atar spice, then roasted it in pomegranate juice and used  the seeds to adorn a cucumber and walnut salad. For a sweet take, I’ve used the juice to drizzle over an easy-to-make almond and polenta loaf cake.” JEN BEDLOE, FOOD EDITOR Pomegranate and za’atar roast chicken with cucumber, radish and walnut salad SERVES 4-6. HANDS-ON TIME 25 MIN, OVEN TIME 1 HOUR 15-25 MIN FOOD TEAM’S TIP Add pomegranate wedges to the roasting tin with the chicken for an attractive garnish. They’ll also add…

RECIPE, FOOD STYLING AND STYLING GILL MELLER PHOTOGRAPHS ANDREW MONTGOMERY “I associate certain months with particular ingredients. April makes me think of snappy asparagus and crinkly wild morels. June is all about fragrant elderflower and sharp gooseberries. I connect August with its sweet tomatoes and blackberries from the hedgerows, and in October quince and earthy celeriac come to mind. But what about February – a tricky between-seasons time? There’s forced rhubarb with its vivid pink stems but, on the whole, it’s a lean time for veg – just when what we dearly need is something new and exciting to cook. Which brings me neatly onto purple sprouting broccoli, or PSB. It’s a striking brassica that comes into its own during this, the bleakest time of the year. Crowning each slender…

THE IMPORTANCE OF SYMBOLIC DISHES AND INGREDIENTS Food is central to Chinese New Year, and festive dishes are chosen for their symbolism in bringing good health, long life, luck and prosperity into the coming year. The major recipe components have a role and meaning beyond their wonderful taste. At the beginning of each of these recipes, Ching explains what the ingredients mean and why they’re important, but here’s her overview of Chinese New Year symbolism: “If particular ingredients sound like the words for ‘prosperity’, ‘luck’, ‘wealth’ or ‘success’, then those dishes become symbolic. Red is a symbol of luck and is considered auspicious, so red foods are emblematic of New Year feasting, too – as is the yellow of pineapple, which is a symbol of gold or wealth.” STARTER Wok-fried…

RECIPE: SOPHIE AUSTEN-SMITH. PHOTOGRAPH: LAURA EDWARDS. FOOD STYLING AND STYLING: GEORGINA HAYDEN Ricotta pancakes with spiced pear and bacon butter SERVES 2. HANDS-ON TIME 30 MIN MAKE AHEAD Make the pancakes the day before, cool and store in an airtight container. To serve, make the butter, then warm the pancakes in the toaster for 1-2 minutes. • 60g self-raising flour • ¼ tsp baking powder • Large pinch ground cinnamon • 2 medium free-range eggs, separated • 25g butter, melted, plus extra for frying • 75ml low-fat natural yogurt • 75g ricotta • ¼ tsp vanilla bean paste FOR THE SPICED PEAR AND BACON BUTTER • 25g unsalted butter, plus extra to taste • 1 pear, cored and sliced into wedges • 4 smoked free-range streaky bacon rashers • 1…

■ Flavour the pastry with a little lemon zest, orange zest, coconut essence or vanilla extract. Or make a nutty pastry instead using ground almonds, hazelnuts or desiccated coconut. ■ For speed, make the tart case using your favourite biscuit crumb and melted butter mixture (if you fancy a bit of spice, try ginger snaps or add a few pinches of cinnamon to crumbled digestives). ■ Use a different flavoured jam: strawberry, apricot, blueberry or plum would all work well. ■ If you’d like to include a layer of sliced bananas between the jam and the custard, they can be plain or caramelised. To caramelise banana slices, melt 2 tbsp caster sugar in a frying pan, add 2 tbsp dark rum and 2 tbsp butter to make a caramel, add…

• BEATNIK HOTEL A comfortable aparthotel just down the road from Pic Bois. Mixing up the best bits of rustic and retro style, the 17 rooms and studios feature record players rather than TVs, and the folksy, sociable vibe carries into the common areas, where there’s a ping pong table, library and pool. Doubles from £80; beatnikhotel.com • LE ST-MARTIN BROMONT HOTEL & SUITES Fireplaces and mountain views are par for the course in this chateau-style hotel 15 minutes from Pic Bois. Here small comforts make a big impression, such as large, sumptuous beds, in-room coffee machines and a heated pool with bar service. Doubles from £108 B&B; lestmartinbromont.com…

The area’s culinary character is predominantly a blend of French, North American and Jewish influences. Meat and fat feature heavily (foie gras crops up almost everywhere – be warned) as do seafood, potatoes and apples. • Poutine French fries covered with squeaky cheese curds and gravy – the ubiquitous speciality of the province. • Viande fumée This smoked meat resembles something between pastrami and corned beef, and is especially prevalent in Montreal, where Jewish delis are plentiful and competition is hot for the best smoked meat sandwich or bagel. • Tourtière A simple pie of spiced minced beef, veal or pork in a thin golden pastry, this is often prepared for special family occasions and makes regular appearances on sugar shack menus. • Cretons A salty pork spread made with…

Season’s eatings What’s at its best right now – and good for you too LEEKS Combining fresh green flavour with mild, sweet oniony-ness once cooked gently and slowly, this slender member of the allium family is as flavourful as it is healthy. Leeks are good sources of fibre, folate and vitamins K, A and C, as well as iron, manganese, calcium and magnesium. HOW TO COOK THEM Leeks and butter are contented bedfellows: slice, then fry gently until tender to the point of melting. There are no flourishes required other than seasoning with salt and pepper. Leeks are also great roasted, served in creamy sauces or used as a low-key alternative to the outspoken onion. THE PREP Strip away and discard any dry outer layers, trim the top and base…

The study stands out for its scale and duration: almost 28,000 men (average age 51) had their diets monitored every four years for 20 years. The men who ate the most vegetables were 34 per cent less likely to develop poor thinking skills than men who ate the least amount. Meanwhile, the men who drank orange juice every day were almost 50 per cent less likely to develop poor thinking skills than the men who drank less than one serving a month. The study doesn’t prove that eating vegetables and orange juice reduces memory loss – it only establishes an association between the two. But it could be another reason to eat more of the green (and orange) stuff.…

RECIPE: OLIVIA SPURRELL. PHOTOGRAPH: SERGE PHILIPPI. FOOD STYLING AND STYLING: JANNEKE PHILIPPI Sausage and sprout carbonara SERVES 2. HANDS-ON TIME 20-25 MIN FOOD TEAM’S TIP It’s important that the pasta and sausages/sprouts are ready at the same time as they need to be hot to cook the egg sauce. • 175g spaghetti • Light olive oil for frying and drizzling • 1-2 leftover free-range British pork sausages, sliced into 1.5cm pieces • 10-12 leftover cooked brussels sprouts, quartered or sliced • 2 medium free-range eggs • 35g parmesan, finely grated • Finely grated zest and juice ½ lemon • 1 tbsp finely chopped fresh flatleaf parsley 1 Bring a large pan of salted water to the boil, then cook the spaghetti according to the packet instructions. Drain, reserving a cup…

RECIPE AND FOOD STYLING: SOPHIE AUSTEN-SMITH. PHOTOGRAPH: MIKE ENGLISH. STYLING: VICTORIA ELDRIDGE Blue cheese and chicken pasta bake SERVES 6. HANDS-ON TIME 30 MIN, OVEN TIME 20-25 MIN MAKE AHEAD Make and assemble the pasta bake the day before and cool, then chill, covered. Bake from chilled for 30-35 minutes until piping hot throughout. FOOD TEAM’S TIP For vegetarians, swap the chicken for roast root veg and use veg stock in step 3. HOW WE DID IT We replaced butter with light olive oil for the white sauce to bring down the saturated fat content. We only used a little cheese but it’s a strong one for a rich flavour. We also upped the veg to make sure the bake feels hearty enough for big appetites. • 250ml semi-skimmed milk…

Soba noodle salad SERVES 2. HANDS-ON TIME 20 MIN HOW TO STORE Keep the tossed noodle salad chilled in 2 separate airtight containers in the fridge for up to 3 days. Cook 100g soba noodles according to the packet instructions, adding 75g edamame beans for the final 2 minutes. Drain, then rinse under cold running water and toss with ½ tsp vegetable oil, 1 tsp toasted sesame oil, 65g sliced radishes, ¼ deseeded and sliced cucumber and 2 sliced spring onions. Mix 1 tsp grated ginger, ½ grated garlic clove, the juice and zest of 1 lime, 1 tsp soy sauce and ½ tsp pickling liquid from a pickled ginger jar, then season. Toss the dressing with the noodles. Sprinkle with toasted sesame seeds; enjoy with lime wedges and pickled…

While the delicious. team are testing recipes, they’re often debating the best ways to do things, as well as answering questions that arise in the test kitchen. Is there a way to eke out the season of forced rhubarb? Is ‘eating with the seasons’ as practical and desirable as many make out? Why are some oysters available year-round and others only from September to April? It’s the kind of information you won’t find anywhere else, and it will take your knowledge to the next level…

IS SEASONAL EATING TOO RESTRICTIVE? It depends how you define it. Whatever the time of year, most things are in season somewhere in the world. You can buy Peruvian asparagus in January or New Zealand apples in April. But ‘seasonal’ usually implies eating what grows locally. If you want to eat only British-grown food, you’ll find slim pickings in winter and early spring. You’ll also miss out on citrus fruit, bananas, avocados, coffee, chocolate... On the other hand, buying locally grown helps local farmers and the lower food miles mean the produce may have a lower environmental impact than imported stuff. SO IS IMPORTED FOOD ‘BAD’? Not at all. The UK relies on imports to fill the gaps in its seasons and to provide crops that don’t grow here. Tomatoes…

Genuine maple syrup contains only one ingredient: maple syrup, from the tree. What you buy from the supermarket in the UK will always be Grade A (retail grade) and it comes in four official flavour classifications (from left, below): Golden (delicate), Amber (rich), Dark (robust) and Very Dark (strong). Maple syrup will lose colour and flavour over time, so store in the fridge to minimise degradation. If you’re not going to use it quickly, the best way to keep the syrup tasting as good as new is to freeze it, then reheat when needed. Turn to p72 to read about how Canadian maple syrup is produced in Quebec and to try some recipes inspired by this wonderful ingredient…

THE SPECIES There are two: Pacific/rock oysters and native/flat oysters. Natives have a season: September to late April. They have a round, brittle shell and their meat is firm and sweet. Pacific oysters are hardy and available year-round. Fat and creamy, Pacifics were introduced when stocks of natives took a dive and now they represent over 90 per cent of the oysters we enjoy today. WHAT TO LOOK FOR Oysters are sold indicating where they’ve been harvested (Maldon, Poole, Menai...) and they taste different depending on where they’ve grown. They live on nutrients in the sea, which they filter, influencing the flavour, a sort of ‘terroir’. As well as metallic and nutty tones, there are lettuce, cucumber and samphire notes. To experience the diversity, taste several from different areas, raw…

DISH PREP It’s vital to coat the inside of the baking dish evenly with breadcrumbs – this prevents the mixture from sticking to the dish during cooking and will help the soufflé lift and rise in the oven. THE BASE The white sauce (béchamel) base for a soufflé needs to be considerably thicker than a sauce you’d use for a lasagne or macaroni cheese. The thickness gives stability to the cooked soufflé (the lightness of the finished dish comes from the whisked egg whites that you fold in just before cooking). DON’T HOLD BACK Season the base mixture more than you think you need to. When you add the whisked egg whites they’ll dilute the flavour, and you can’t adjust the seasoning once they’ve been folded in. DO HOLD BACK!…

Clodagh’s Suppers by Clodagh McKenna (Kyle Books £20) TESTED BY Susan Low The introduction gave me a serious inferiority complex. I thought that inviting a few friends round to share my cramped kitchen table, lighting a candle or two and serving lots of good food and potable booze was the height of hospitality. I’ve even been known to provide paper napkins (on request). It seems I’ve overlooked polishing my candlesticks, putting a scented candle in the bathroom, filling the place with seasonal flowers and providing warming pashminas when dining outdoors. Of course, aspiration and escapism are important tools in cookery publishing and, facetiousness aside, the new book from the Irish chef, restaurateur, cookbook author, telly presenter and YouTuber has both in abundance. Fortunately, it also has plenty of ideas and…

Forced rhubarb brings a showy-offy flash of vivid pink at a time of year when colour is missing outside. I love the fact that the fruit grows so fast you can hear it squeak, reaching up towards the lights in sheds in Yorkshire’s famous Rhubarb Triangle. The flavour is as sharp and bright as the colour of the stalks – outstanding as a counterpoint to the sweetness of a crumble topping, or infused in alcohol for a potent liqueur to pep up drinks – and your senses.…

525AD St Brigid was a milkmaid before becoming a nun, which is why her feast day (1 February) is marked in Ireland with freshly churned butter and a loaf of St Brigid’s oaten bread. 1897 Inventor Alfred L Cralle of Pennsylvania was awarded a patent for his ‘Ice Cream Mold and Disher’ on 2 February. His basic design for an ice cream scoop is still used today. 1960 When four African-American students were refused a coffee at a ‘whitesonly’ lunch counter on 1 February, they just sat and waited, signalling a new tactic from the Civil Rights Movement. 2010 On 5 February crates of whisky and brandy were found near a hut used by Shackleton on an attempt to reach the South Pole. The 101-year-old spirits were perfectly intact.…

• DABBLE WITH DAL The British Dal Festival returns for a second year, putting the pulses in the spotlight at eateries across the country. A ‘Grand Dal Finale’ will be held in Bristol on 16 February, with demos, talks and dals aplenty. 10-17Feb; britishdalfestival.com • HANG OUT WITH CHEFS Want to up your kitchen skills in 2019? The Chef’s Table Event brings together maestros including Ben Tish, Gill Meller and Chetna Makan with cook school tutors for a weekend of masterclasses and dining. 15-17 Feb, London, £40; thechefstableevent.com • USE YOUR LOAF The Real Bread Campaign urges you to buy bread from independent bakeries for Real Bread Week (23 Feb to 3 March). Better yet, bake some (and post on social media with the hashtag #IAmRealBread).…

RUSTIC SOPHISTICATION There’s so much to love about this earthenware crockery from Anthropologie, from the uneven edges and glazing to the insignia-like stamp on each piece, to the goes-with-anything whitewashed grey of it. Just gorgeous. Glenna crockery, from £14 for a mug to £20 for a dinner plate, either in store or at anthropologie.com MEET THE ARTIST “Painting pictures of food conjures up smells, tastes and emotions” LUCY CLAYTON is an artist and printmaker who loves to create vibrant, evocative images – particularly of food. She’s a member of the Society of Graphic Fine Art and lives in Tunbridge Wells, Kent, with her family. HOW IT BEGAN Apart from wanting to be a zookeeper when I was little, I’ve always wanted to paint and draw. I did a…

While it’s true that a rose by any other name would smell as sweet, will a cake labelled ‘scrummy,’ ‘yummy,’ or ‘to-die-for’ still taste as good? Well, yes, clearly it will, but my inclination to eat it diminishes with every infantilising adjective. Call me a grump, but my eyes itch at the words we use to describe food and its associated world. Let’s start with ‘foodie’. What do we, the happy tribe of dedicated kitchen-botherers, call ourselves? Foodie sounds so smug and twee in a way that the French equivalent, gourmand, simply doesn’t. Though we can’t call ourselves that without sounding impossibly pompous. For now, I’ll just settle for sheepishly identifying as someone who likes her dinner. ILLUSTRATIONS: ISTOCK/GETTY IMAGES It’s a sign of the relative infancy of our food…

• Sear in a hot, ridged griddle pan until blistered and tender, then serve with a good smoky taramasalata. • PSB is beautiful in a gratin. Blanch it, lay it in a shallow dish and pour over cream infused with chilli, anchovies, rosemary and garlic. Sprinkle with breadcrumbs and parmesan, then bake until golden and bubbling. • PSB and eggs are a fabulous combination. Swap your toast soldiers for tender stems of steamed purple sprouting broccoli. You won’t look back.…

Beef bourguignon pies “Instead of being crushed by the slog of February (will it ever end?) I like to inject a bit of fun into my cooking. Going out feels like a bit of a faff, it’s so cold, and the purse feels pinched from the festive season, so instead I channel my inner child and cook retro-style dishes that bring a smile to everyone’s face – including mine! Spaghetti hoops on toast has become a go-to dish in our house when all we want to do is curl up on the sofa with a good film and a brew. It’s such a joyful recipe and is much loved by my baby and husband. The beef pies are my take on Fray Bentos pies and you can easily scale…

Available from supermarkets or Asian supermarkets • SHAOXING RICE WINE Made from fermented glutinous rice, then aged. It has an amber colour and a complex flavour. Use it to deglaze the wok after stir-frying. The bitter sweetness will enhance the taste of meat, fish or veg. dry sherry as a substitute. • PREMIUM REDUCED-SODIUM LIGHT SOY SAUCE Essential for an umami-rich savoury taste. • PREMIUM DARK SOY SAUCE I use this for enriching sauces, marinades and basting during cooking rather than as a seasoning. • TOASTED SESAME OIL Drizzle over rice, soups or stir-fries. It makes a great base for dressing noodles or salads. Mix with vinegar and soy for a dipping sauce. • PREMIUM OYSTER SAUCE I like Lee Kum Kee brand, which is made from cooked-down oysters rather…

“If you’re planning a romantic feast for two, this is a fine way to round off the meal. There’s a degree of effort involved in making the crisp pastry, rich pistachio frangipane and fragrant apple roses, but I promise you it’s worth it – for Valentine’s Day or any time.” RECIPE AND FOOD STYLING OLIVIA SPURRELL PHOTOGRAPHS STUART WEST STYLING VICTORIA ELDRIDGE Apple, rose and pistachio tarts MAKES 2. HANDS-ON TIME 50 MIN, OVEN TIME 50-55 MIN, PLUS 1½ HOURS CHILLING MAKE AHEAD Make the tarts up to a day ahead, cool, then keep in an airtight container at a cool room temperature. FOR THE PASTRY • 40g unsalted butter, chilled, cut into cubes • 30g icing sugar • 1 medium free-range egg yolk • 85g plain flour, plus extra…

The deep freeze of the Canadian winter is coming to an end, and with it the thawing of snow, the first optimistic buds appearing on trees and the faint sound of honking as geese return to the lakes. Across this vast, rugged country, Canadians are preparing for what might just be the most anticipated time of the year: maple season. PHOTOGRAPHS: ISTOCK/GETTY IMAGES There’s no denying the ties that bind Canada with all things maple – it’s as much a part of the culture as ice hockey. The maple leaf is the symbol on the national flag, after all. And if maple syrup is the blood that runs through Canada’s veins, then Quebec is its beating heart. Nearly 70 per cent of the world’s maple syrup comes from this single…

IN MONTREAL • JOE BEEF joebeef.ca Steak and seafood abound at this brilliant culinary institution. The blackboard menu changes regularly, but ongoing classics include onglet boeuf with foie gras, and their famous lobster spaghetti. Dinner £95 for two, plus drinks • MAISON PUBLIQUE maisonpublique.com Popular French-Canadian gastropub with a changing seasonal menu: think succulent fried rabbit or wild cod with chanterelles. The focus is on what’s local, from the produce to the wine list. Dinner £50 for two, plus drinks OUTSIDE MONTREAL • LE CELLIER DU ROI (royalbromont.com) Don’t be put off by the golf-resort location: this elegant, well-lit restaurant in Bromont is a gem. Chef Emmanuel Godin hits all the right notes, from robust deer tartare to delicate maple-glazed salmon. Dinner £70 for two, plus drinks • RESTAURANT DU SPA EASTMAN (spa-eastman.com) Set…

THE BARGAIN WHITE Tuna Club Verdejo-Sauvignon Blanc 2017, Villamalea, Spain (£6.99, Waitrose) Two popular grapes combine to create a light dry white with notes of pineapple and yellow apples. Refreshing stuff (though better with white fish than tuna). THE BARGAIN RED Il Sarmento Nero di Troia 2017, Puglia, Italy (£5.50, Co-op) Pair up simple pizzas and tomato-based pasta sauces with this lively southern Italian, full of moreish fresh red cherry flavours. THE MIDWEEK TREAT The Best St-Emilion 2015, Bordeaux, France (£12, Morrisons) Fine, full-bodied claret packed with spicy cassis and brambles. Decant to open up its flavour and aroma, then pour to go with steak or duck. THE SPLASH-OUT BOTTLE Lismore Estate Vineyards Chardonnay 2016, South Africa (£22.95, winedirect.co.uk ) One of the finest New World chardonnays,…

OUT: MASHED POTATO IN: MASHED CAULIFLOWER Mashed potato is one of life’s great joys, but as potato doesn’t count as one of your five-a-day (it’s considered mainly starch), crank up the nutrients and flavour now and then with mashed cauli. Steam or boil until very tender – this is no time for al dente – then drain and sit the colander over the hot pan for 5 minutes to steam dry. Season with salt and pepper and perhaps add some cream, butter and/or grated parmesan, then mash or whizz until smooth. Use to top cottage, shepherd’s and fish pies. WHY CAULI IS GOOD FOR YOU It’s an excellent source of dietary fibre and potassium, as well as the vitamins C and K.…

Thai ginger beef stir-fry SERVES 4. HANDS-ON TIME 25 MIN FOOD TEAM’S TIP Most tamari is gluten free, but check the label to make sure. • 1 tsp cornflour • 2 tbsp tamari sauce (see tip) • 2 fat garlic cloves • 6cm piece fresh ginger • 1 red chilli, deseeded and sliced • Vegetable oil for frying • 300g grass-fed British sirloin or rump steak, thinly sliced • 2 x 300g packs mixed vegetable stir-fry • Large handful Thai basil (or use regular basil and add a few crushed fennel seeds) • Splash rice wine vinegar (optional) • Juice 2 limes, plus wedges to serve • Cooked rice or noodles to serve 1 Mix the cornflour, tamari and 2 tbsp cold water in a small bowl. Grate in 1…

RECIPE: SOPHIE AUSTEN-SMITH. PHOTOGRAPH: MAJA SMEND. FOOD STYLING: LOTTIE COVELL. STYLING: TONY HUTCHINSON Root vegetable tagine SERVES 6. HANDS-ON TIME 20 MIN, SIMMERING TIME 20-25 MIN MAKE AHEAD Cool, cover and chill for up to 3 days or freeze in an airtight container for up to 3 months. Defrost overnight in the fridge, then reheat and serve with the coconut yogurt and parsley. FOOD TEAM’S TIP Use your favourite seasonal veg – we chose carrot, celeriac and onion. You could also stir in spinach near the end. • 1 tbsp light olive oil • About 900g mixed root veg (see tip) • 2 tbsp dried harissa spice mix (we used Bart) • Large handful fresh parsley, stalks and leaves chopped separately • 200g dried green lentils • 2 x 400g…

The master recipe Sausage and cider casserole SERVES 4 WITH A THIRD LEFT OVER. HANDS-ON TIME 20 MIN, SIMMERING TIME 20-25 MIN • 2 tbsp olive oil • 12 British free-range or organic pork sausages • 1 large onion, sliced • 2 leeks, sliced • 3 garlic cloves, crushed • 500ml dry cider • 250ml chicken stock • 2 tbsp wholegrain mustard • 200g young leaf spinach 1 Heat 1 tbsp olive oil in a large, lidded flameproof casserole or heavy-based pan over a medium-high heat. Add the sausages and cook for 6-8 minutes, turning every few minutes, until browned. Transfer to a plate and set aside. 2 Add the remaining oil to the pan with the onion and leeks. Stir in a pinch of salt and cook gently for…

Most people with lactose intolerance can tolerate 200ml milk when consumed with a meal ❑ TRUE ❑ FALSE Hard cheeses such as parmesan contain little or no lactose ❑ TRUE ❑ FALSE Adults (in northern Europe) aren’t designed to drink milk ❑ TRUE ❑ FALSE New evidence suggests that dairy fat, when eaten in cheese, may lower your cholesterol ❑ TRUE ❑ FALSE Dairy calcium is better than other sources for developing strong bones and preventing osteoporosis ❑ TRUE ❑ FALSE…

Shocking-pink early forced rhubarb has a very short season, so it’s worth making the most of it… RHUBARB SHRUB Simmer 450g chopped rhubarb in 200ml water until soft. Stir in 200g caster sugar to dissolve, then strain into a measuring jug. Add half the volume of cider vinegar or white wine vinegar, cool, then put in a sterilised glass jar or bottle and seal. Store chilled for up to 3 weeks. To use, dilute 1 part shrub with 3-4 parts fizzy water; add mint leaves. RHUBARB JAM Put 1kg rhubarb, cut into 1cm pieces, in a pan on a low heat with 800g caster sugar and the finely grated zest and juice of 2 oranges. When the sugar dissolves, raise the heat and simmer until the rhubarb is soft. Mix…

HOW IT’S MADE Egg custard is made by gently heating a mixture of egg yolks, milk and sugar. When it reaches a certain temperature (70-80°C), the proteins in the egg start to unfurl and join together in a fine mesh, turning the liquid thick and smooth. WHAT CAN GO WRONG If the custard is overheated, the proteins clump together too tightly, forming lumps. The result: grainy custard. HOW TO FIX IT All is not lost. Here’s what to do… 1 The moment your custard starts to curdle, quickly tip it out of the pan and into a bowl – this will stop it cooking. 2 The next step is to make it smooth. Do this using a hand blender, whizzing it for a few seconds at a time until most…

Odd numbers look better to the eye than even, so next time you’re plating up meatballs, have a quick count. The human brain naturally tries to order even groups of objects into pairs, then, once it’s done that, fixes in the centre of an image. If there’s empty (known as negative) space there, you end up looking at that instead of at the food that’s meant to be the focus of the picture or plate. (Incidentally, the same odd-number principle applies to planting plants in the garden; gardeners invariably plant in threes and fives.)…

1 Choose a deep, heavy-based saucepan and fill no more than two-thirds full with a neutral oil with a high smoke point, such as sunflower or groundnut. Use a whole bottle so you can re-use/recycle it later (step 5). 2 Set the pan over a medium-high heat and bring it up to temperature (usually 180°C). A digital probe thermometer is best. If you don’t have one, drop a small cube of bread into the oil – if the oil is at the correct temperature the bread will sizzle when it hits the surface and turn brown in 30-40 seconds. 3 Use a long-handled slotted spoon or frying basket to gently lower the food into the hot oil. Fry in small batches so you don’t overcrowd the pan or reduce the…

“This wonderful rich cake-pastry is made with a layered, buttery yeasted dough (‘amann’ is the Breton word for butter), which caramelises as it bakes. It’s from my native Brittany, and everyone there has their own recipe and method for making it. At the bakery where I was an apprentice, my boss made one of the best versions I’ve ever tasted but he kept his recipe a close secret. I watched him make it many times so my version is based on his technique. A large slice of kouign (pronounced ‘kween’) amann, cut while still warm, is beautiful with a glass of good cider.” RICHARD BERTINET A BIT ABOUT RICHARD He has over 20 years’ experience as a chef and baker and is renowned as one of the best bakers…

FIRST PLACE Sainsbury’s Vanilla Crème Brûlée, £1.75 for two (100g each) Rich, silky custard, good vanilla flavour and pleasing just-set texture. Sugar topping caramelises lightly and is crisp, with residual crunchy granules. SECOND PLACE Marks & Spencer Crème Brûlée, £3.50 for two (89g each) A lighter, milkier-tasting custard with a firmer set, drawing comparisons to crema catalana. Let down by a slightly meagre caramelised finish. THIRD PLACE Bonne Maman Crème Brûlée, £2.50 for two (100g each) Sweet and thick with pronounced vanilla flavour. The topping is golden but not crisp, and the resulting flavour is somewhat closer to a crème caramel. TASTE TEST WORDS: PHOEBE STONE. BOOK REVIEWS: SUSAN LOW HOW WE TEST Our panel are taste experts. We conduct our tests without packaging, so our tasters don’t know who…

Rhubarb vodka MAKES 1.2 LITRES. HANDS-ON TIME 5 MIN, PLUS 4 DAYS STEEPING/INFUSING MAKE AHEAD Once strained the rhubarb vodka will keep in a cool, dark place (or the fridge) for several months. FOOD TEAM’S TIPS Add a drizzle of syrup from a jar of stem ginger for a warming twist. For a how-to on sterilising jars and bottles, search ‘how to sterilise’ at deliciousmagazine.co.uk. KIT YOU’LL NEED… Sterilised 1.5 litre glass jar with an airtight seal, such as a Kilner jar (see tips); sterilised glass bottle with a top Chop 600g rhubarb into thin slices and put in the 1.5 litre sterilised jar. Add 200g caster sugar, a few strips of orange zest and 1 litre vodka. Seal and store in a dark cupboard for 1-2 weeks, turning or…

SUBJECT: Don’t give up the Twiglets FROM : Carla Allen What a fabulous article from Debora Robertson in the January issue [p16]. I found myself nodding along with a smile on my face as I happily delved into my Twiglets. I’ve never been particularly good at keeping new year resolutions, feeling pressured to make them because everybody else does. How refreshing to read about Debora’s ideas for January – what better than to snuggle up, “eat your dinner on a tray” and dream of warmer days? She’s inspired me to bake a cake I’ve never made before once a month. I can’t wait! SUBJECT: Healthy eating FROM : Suzanne Rothwell Great recipes in January’s issue. I’m following a healthy eating plan, so I chose all the things I want to…

THE CREAMERIES  thecreameries.co.uk Chef Mary-Ellen McTague made a name for herself at the Aumbry in Prestwich before opening in this former creamery, in the Manchester suburb of Chorlton. THE SETTING The gorgeous Edwardian façade leads to a modern interior of concrete floors, bench seating, communal tables and hanging plants. THE FOOD The day’s menu, chalked up on huge blackboards, might combine a posh toasted sandwich (above), gutsy soup of cauliflower and beenleigh blue cheese, or mussels with burnt butter and focaccia. And there’s usually a pie: pheasant, say, encased in crisp duck-fat pastry and served with celeriac purée and sprout tops. Desserts are mainly cakes and tarts, including a peerless treacle number. VERDICT Punchy flavours and a laidback, family-friendly vibe (there’s a kids’ play area) make this a fabulous neighbourhood…

1 A lobster’s teeth are found in its… a) Stomach b) Mouth c) Claws 2 What is known as Welshman’s caviar? 3 What’s the main ingredient of a glamorgan sausage? 4 Which of these are used in Scottish macaroons? a) Whisky b)Liquorice c) Potato 5 What part of a pig is boiled, battered and fried to make Irish crubbeens? a) Ear b)Trotter c) Tail 6 What is a Manx Knob? a) Ball of fudge b)Stick of rock c) Mint humbug 7 Which 19th-century French gastronomist might also be a big cheese? 8 Where are green peas a popular pizza topping? a) Brazil b)Philippines c)Japan 9 What flavour was the first sandwich in space? a) Ham and mustard b)Cheese and pickle c) Corned beef 10 What teatime treat was supposedly invented…

Black pudding macaroni cheese toastie SERVES 4. HANDS-ON TIME 30 MIN MAKE AHEAD Make the toasties to the end of step 5 up to a day ahead. Wrap well, then chill. FOOD TEAM’S TIPS This recipe is great for using up leftover macaroni cheese. Skip steps 2-3. Instead, warm your leftovers on the hob, then continue from step 4, adding extra grated cheese in step 5. If you prefer, use chorizo or haggis instead of black pudding. For a veggie alternative, omit it and use vegetarian cheeses. If you’re short of time use red onion chutney from a jar. • 25g butter, plus a good bit extra for spreading • 2 red onions, chopped • 1 garlic clove, crushed • 1 tbsp soft dark brown sugar • 1 tbsp balsamic…

PHOTOGRAPH: MAJA SMEND. FOOD STYLING: SOPHIE AUSTEN-SMITH. STYLING: SARAH BIRKS. PORTRAIT: MATT RUSSELL.THANKS TO THE GINGER PIG (THEGINGERPIG.CO.UK) FOR SUPPLYING THE MEAT FOR THIS ROAST “I love slow-cooking meat in winter. Preparing and marinating it one day, then gently roasting it the next creates a rhythm for my perfect  February weekend at home. Pork, with its yielding fat and skin that screams to be crisped, is a perfect candidate. The accompaniments for this classic Italian roast also take their cue from Italy, with a hearty base of braised cannellini beans alongside the bitter twang of grilled radicchio leaves and a zippy blood orange dressing. Bring them all together and cosy up with friends for a hearty, wholesome midwinter feast.” NICHOLAS BALFE Roast porchetta with braised cannellini beans, grilled radicchio and…

Try your hand at Dan Doherty’s poached egg and corn fritters on the cover of this issue and you could win three pieces of gorgeous Falk Culinair copper cookware. The 24cm frying pan is perfect for fluffy omelettes or weekend steak and chips. The lidded casserole lends itself to dishes requiring slow, even heat, while the saucier is a versatile pan: the curved sides make it easier to stir sauces in a smooth movement. Each piece is oven safe and can be used on gas or electric hobs. All Falk Culinair cookware is handcrafted to last a lifetime – see the full range at falkculinair.co.uk. FOR YOUR CHANCE TO WIN… Make the corn fritters with sticky tomato relish on our February cover, then take a picture and share it with…

“Cooking for a living has been my life for almost 20 years. I’ve worked in Michelin-starred restaurants, gastropubs and brasserie-style joints. At the beginning it was important to learn the trade, which leaves little time for anything else. Over the past few years, though, I’ve found cooking at home more and more enjoyable. I recently became a dad and I find cooking relaxes me and allows me to create without the pressures and responsibilities that being in a restaurant kitchen brings. However busy I am professionally, I still do a lot of cooking at home because it makes me happy and because I know my family are getting proper, tasty, nourishing food. I can’t wait until my baby daughter Tilly is older and we can teach her about food and…

PHOTOGRAPH: MAJA SMEND. FOOD STYLING: LOTTIE COVELL. STYLING: TONY HUTCHINSON “KFC (that’s Korean fried chicken) emerged from the US influence on Korea, but it has evolved to become uniquely Korean. The key is the thin, hard, crisp coating, which comes from using cornflour instead of wheat flour. Being a New York ‘Joo’, I decided to mix matzo meal into the batter as it creates a moreish, shell-like crust. Then comes the sauce… The fried chicken is tossed in a sweet and spicy  barbecue sauce flavoured with gochujang (fermented chilli paste), sesame oil and ginger. Eat with daikon pickles and your KFC experience is complete.” Ultimate Korean fried chicken (yangnyum chicken) SERVES 4. HANDS-ON TIME 30 MIN, FRYING TIME 30-40 MIN MAKE AHEAD Make the barbecue sauce up to 3 days…

1 Put the rice in a sieve and rinse thoroughly under cold running water to remove any excess dust or starch. Run your fingers through it until the water runs clear. 2 Add just under double the volume of water to rice. For 4 people, I use 350g jasmine rice to 600ml cold water. 3 Put in a heavy-based pan (one with a tight-fitting lid) over a high heat with the lid off. 4 When the water begins to boil, turn the heat right down and put the lid on. Cook, covered, for about 15 minutes until all the water has evaporated. (It’s hard, but the trick is to leave the rice and let it cook without disturbing it, stirring it or lifting off the lid to peek in.) 5…

THE HISTORY BIT RECIPE: DEBBIE MAJOR. PHOTOGRAPH: MAJA SMEND. FOOD STYLING: NICOLA ROBERTS. STYLING: SARA BIRKS.MANCHESTER ILLUSTRATION: SUE SCOTT (SLSCOTT.CO.UK). ADDITIONAL RESEARCH: MINI SMITH If you went to school before the mid-1980s you may already be familiar with Manchester tart. It’s essentially a pastry case filled with jam and quivering custard, then sprinkled with coconut. And if you’re lucky, you might find a glacé cherry on top. There are regional variations and if you’re eating it in Manchester or Liverpool you might find a layer of sliced bananas hidden beneath the custard. The tart is believed to have originated from a recipe by Victorian cookery writer Mrs Beeton, author of the Book of Household Management (1861). Manchester pudding, as it was then called, was a puff pastry tart case topped…

VEGAN-FRIENDLY: Handfield (45 minutes’ drive northeast of Montreal) It’s rare to find a sugar shack menu that offers vegetarian, vegan and gluten-free options, but this countryside inn happily makes the effort. There’s accommodation and a spa onsite too, so you don’t have to move far after your lavish lunch. aubergehandfield.com/en/sugar-shack GOING GOURMET: Cabane à Sucre Au Pied De Cochon (45 minutes’ drive west of Montreal) Renowned chef and restaurateur Martin Picard puts a twist on tradition with this cavernous temple to meat and maple. With dishes such as suckling pig with duck fat crepes and apple crumble pie with maple taffy ice cream, this feast isn’t for the faint of heart. aupieddecochon.ca…

Roast duck with rich maple-baked beans SERVES 6. HANDS-ON TIME 20 MIN, OVEN TIME 2½ HOURS MAKE AHEAD The beans will keep covered in the fridge for up to 3 days. Reheat in a pan on the hob until piping hot to serve. FOOD TEAM’S TIPS Before serving, separate the duck fat and cooking juices, then stir the juices into the beans for extra flavour. The beans would also taste great with pork belly or sausages, or simply on toast. • 2kg whole duck • 2 tbsp sea salt flakes • 2 tbsp maple syrup • Small handful fresh flatleaf parsley, chopped FOR THE MAPLE BEANS • Splash olive oil • 1 red onion, finely chopped • 1 carrot, finely chopped • 3 garlic cloves, crushed • 2 tbsp tomato…

Champagne and a box of chocs might be classic Valentine’s Day gifts, but don’t get stuck into them at the same time – the rich texture and sweetness of chocolate clashes badly with dry, crisp, delicate bubbly. Happily there are some compatible marriages of wine and dark chocolate, but all the right suitors are luscious, sticky dessert wines. Moscatel de valencia is the best bargain buy, and widely available. Almost as good value is another pudding wine, sweet French muscat (try rivesaltes st jean de minervois or beaumes de venise). Bordeaux’s citrussy golden sweeties, such as sauternes, are pricier but a wonderful treat, as is Hungary’s majestic, peachy tokaji. Or go for a stronger fortified wine in the shape of malmsey madeira or tawny port, both of which bring nutty,…

Good food is important because it provides the body with the energy required to function well. But food is more than just fuel for the body – it’s about nurturing the mind too, and proper nutrition plays a huge part in our performance as human beings, whether that’s in sport, academe or the workplace. What we eat has an integral role in regulating immune, bone, hormonal, physical and mental health. At times, though, the way we relate to food can become fraught with anxiety. Likewise, healthy competition is an essential component of human nature, driving productivity – but when the balance tips too far in the direction of merely chasing success, the consequences for health and for performance can be negative. The result can be a depressed immune system, poor…

RECIPE AND FOOD STYLING: OLIVIA SPURRELL.PHOTOGRAPH: NASSIMA ROTHACKER. STYLING: MORAG FARQUHAR Mussels with salsa verde and olive oil chips SERVES 4. HANDS-ON TIME 20 MIN, OVEN TIME 45 MIN KNOWHOW Scrub the mussels under cold running water and pull off any thread-like ‘beards’. Discard raw mussels with broken shells or open mussels that don’t close when tapped firmly on the work surface. Once they’re cooked, discard any that haven’t opened. • 1kg maris piper potatoes • 3 tbsp olive oil • 1 onion, chopped • 2 garlic cloves, crushed • 100ml dry white wine • 1.5kg mussels, cleaned and de-bearded (see Know-how) FOR THE SALSA VERDE • Large handful fresh soft herbs, such as parsley, mint and basil, chopped • 1 tbsp dijon mustard • 2 tbsp capers, drained •…

Salmon and broccoli traybake with spring onion and chilli RECIPE: JEN BEDLOE. PHOTOGRAPH: CRAIG WALL SERVES 4. HANDS-ON TIME 10 MIN, OVEN TIME 27-30 MIN, PLUS MARINATING FOOD TEAM’S TIP If you’re only serving 2, cool the leftover salmon, cover and store in the fridge for up to 3 days. Use in salads or to make fishcakes. • 1 large red chilli, half chopped, half finely sliced • 1 bunch spring onions, chopped • 5cm piece fresh ginger, grated • 3 garlic cloves, grated • 3 tbsp dark soy sauce • 1½ tbsp rice wine vinegar • 4 small (90g each) sustainable salmon fillets • 1 large broccoli head (around 300g), cut into florets • Cooking oil spray • Micro herbs or freshly picked small coriander leaves (we used Asian…

Cumin paneer salad “I’m not a health specialist, but what I do know is that the food I cook uses a minimum of oil and ghee; that the produce, whether it’s vegetables, fish or chicken, is fresh; and that the spices I use are good for you. Follow my lead and you too will be creating healthy, flavoursome meals for your family, regardless of the odd splash of cream or occasional sprinkling of sugar here and there. These dishes are designed to bring you into my kitchen so I can share my favourite everyday recipes with you.” “If you’re craving a warming, satisfying winter salad with a massive flavour kick and a crisp, crunchy texture, it’s time to reach for this recipe. The peanut, garlic and chilli dressing will bring…

MEET OUR EXPERTS JEN BEDLOE Food editor SOPHIE AUSTEN-SMITH Deputy food editor OLIVIA SPURRELL Cookery assistant LUCAS HOLLWEG Chef and food writer THANE PRINCE Food writer, cook and queen of preserving CHEF’S STEP BY STEP Richard Bertinet shows you how to master the buttery, flaky kouign amann delicious. KITCHEN What to do with rhubarb, how to save your grainy custard and all you need to know about oysters FOR THE WEEKEND Worried your soufflé will fall? See our foolproof guide for a light and fluffy result…

PORCHETTA An Italian pork joint, it's traditionally made from a whole suckling pig, boned, salted and stuffed with fennel, garlic and herbs. These days, it’s usually made with boned middle (belly and loin) of pork – see Nicholas Balfe's recipe on p26). Either way, the result is succulent meat and crisp skin. In Italy, it’s often sliced and served in a bread roll, though it goes just as well with the trimmings of a traditional British roast. BEEF RUMP Though usually cut into steaks, rump makes a fantastic roast. Season, then brown all over in a pan on the hob. Put in a roasting tin and roast at 200°C/180°Cfan/gas 6 for about 20 minutes per 500g for rare (or until the internal temperature reads 50°C on a digital probe thermometer).…

2 CHOCOLATE + CHILLI It’s a Latin American classic. Try infusing the cream for your favourite chocolate tart or sauce with chilli flakes – or try subtle chilli heat in a chocolate cookie. If you want to go savoury, add a little dark chocolate to a chilli con carne. 3 TAHINI + HONEY Tahini’s flavour is key to houmous and other Middle Eastern savoury dishes, but its nutty, bitter notes work brilliantly with honey too. Try it in cakes and cookies, sprinkled with sesame seeds – or mix with an equal amount of honey as a spread. 1 SUGAR + VINEGAR, ONIONS AND RAISINS The Italians call it agrodolce (sharp-sweet). Classic veg for cooking or dressing with agrodolce sauce are shallots, pumpkin and spinach. It can be used to marinate…

PHOTOGRAPHS: ISTOCK/GETTY IMAGES, GARETH MORGANS. MAPLE SYRUP TEXT: CLAIRE NELSON FOOD SCRAP KIMCHI When we first started to make kimchi for our wraps we stuck to cabbage but I soon realised our spinach stalks, herb stalks and cauli leaves could go in there too, which makes kimchi the cheapest thing in the world to make. JUICE-PULP PIZZAS We don’t often use veg for juicing at Peardrop because the waste ratio is high, but if we do, we make pizza bases from the leftover pulp. Here’s how: 1 Blend the pulp with pumpkin or sunflower seeds, a dash of olive oil, a dash of cider vinegar, mustard, herbs, a bit of onion and either ground almonds, flaxseed or a little bit of buckwheat or rice flour to bind. 2 Roll out…

PHOTOGRAPHS: JEAN CAZALS. STYLING: TABITHA HAWKINS The important thing when slapping and folding the basic dough at the beginning is to relax. You need to get into a rhythm, rocking onto your front foot as you scoop up the dough and let it swing, then rocking backwards as you slap it down, then forwards again as you stretch it over itself. Let there be rock! The longer you rest the basic dough in the fridge (step 9), the more its flavour develops. Leave it overnight if you can, then layer with butter and sugar, put in the tin and bake the next day.…

Russell Hobbs Rice Cooker and Steamer 19750, 1.8 litres £18 (RRP £25), direct.asda.com TESTED BY Aggie MacKenzie WHY BOTHER? If you cook rice regularly and want to take the potential mess and guesswork out of the equation. Electric rice cookers were introduced in Japan in the 1950s and are used all over Asia. My Japanese friend often cooks with rice and uses hers all the time, though I’ve never really ‘got’ it. The cooker is made up of a main body, a heating plate on the base, a thermal sensing device underneath that, plus an inner cooking pan. WHAT’S GOOD ABOUT THIS METHOD? It’s so utterly simple to use: foolproof really. None of that messy, starchy, boiling-over onto the hob. And it’s fully automatic so there’s no guessing how long to…

A few years ago, someone discovered a hard-to-pronounce but intriguing word from Scandinavia – and the world became obsessed with hygge. Since then, we Scandinavians in the UK have been listening to Brits trying to explain back to us what hygge is and how we’re supposed to do it. The idea has been commercialised to the point where you can buy blankets, underpants and fluffy socks, all labelled hygge. Well, it’s time to get a few things straight. It’s time to reclaim hygge. PHOTOGRAPH: ISTOCK/GETTY IMAGES Let’s start with how you say the word. It’s roughly pronounced WHO-guh. There are a few regional differences in pronunciation but it never ever rhymes with ‘jiggy’, however much headline writers may want it to, so ‘getting hygge with it’ isn’t an option –…