Table of contents for Autumn 2021 in Dazed & Confused

Backxwash It’s an appropriately volcanic day in Montreal when I speak to Backxwash about her prize-winning debut album, God Has Nothing to Do With This Leave Him Out of It. “It had reached that point where I realised this was my sound, this was my style – it was different from anything else that I’d done,” the rapper and producer explains. A dark, bilious, scorched-earth attack on the hypocrisy of western civilisation, the record introduced the world to a brand-new mutation in the hip-hop canon, which pits metal’s eldritch howls and guitar clamour against stuttering hi-hats and 808s. Coming from a city better known for its Pitchfork-approved indie-rock than beats churned in a cement mixer, the album seemed to arrive out of nowhere. Yet in the year since Backxwash attracted…

hair KEIKO TADA at MOD’S HAIR, make-up YUKA HIRAC, models HYOU KAGOU at STANFORD, KYOYA MIYAUCHI at FRIDAY, MAO at TOMORROW TOKYO, MAYU at SOS, MOMOI KAZUNE at BARK IN STYLE, SENPING at BRAVO, URA at BE NATURAL, VIRGIN SHEN, CHELSY, NAMI, photographic assistant TENKOU MA, styling assistants MIZUKI HIRANO, DAICHI HATSUZAWA, KOICHI SAWANO, hair assistant KAORI ISHII, makeup assistants AYAKA HAMAMOTO, AYAKA KAZAMA, production and casting TAKA ARAKAWA, production assistant AZUSA NOZAKI, casting assistant INO YU…

Five designers. Five different points of view. Virgil Abloh, Maximilian Davis, Martine Rose, Lev Tanju and Florence Tétier have all approached the crafting of their labels by eschewing industry expectation and building a new type of narrative on fashion – putting community first, and catalysing the culture around them. Celebrating them as oracles of what is next, we invite their thoughts and insights into an industry and world very much in flux, and what the future may hold. Florence Tétier on being a born outsider, “unschooling” and the power of chaos Lev Tanju on skate dreams, the Olympics and embracing your fantasies Martine Rose on preserving your “wonkiness”, dodging the mainstream and true luxury Maximilian Davis on carnival maximalism, his Trinidadian heritage and freedom through clothing Virgil Abloh on junglizm,…

“ You know how hood politics go. There’s a big debate about which township amapiano originated from. The truth of the matter is, amapiano was born in the soil of the streets of South Africa. Therefore, it belongs to all of us”– Wandile Themba, Shaya! documentary It’s Valentine’s weekend 2020 at the Chimurenga Factory. A mix of locals and internationals rub against each other in the tiny makeshift club in Woodstock, Cape Town’s most racially diverse square mile. “Sukendleleni” by Jobe London and Mphow 69 has just come on, and a flood of people start chanting “Jovey! Jovey!” in the direction of a seven-foot high subwoofer. The amapiano track skips, coils and drops like fireworks popping in the skies above Woodstock, mini-explosions of magic and resistance in the weeks before…

hair KIYOKO ODO at BRYANT ARTISTS, make-up RAOUL ALEJANDRE (Valentino Beauty global make-up artist) using VALENTINO BEAUTY available at SELFRIDGES, set design AFRA ZAMARA at EAST, set design CLOUD & HORSE, models BANGALI DRAMMEH at MODELS 1, BINTA DIOP at ELITE, NIKKI KAHR at THE HIVE, lighting design JOSEF BEYER, photographic assistant RHYS GRAY, styling assistant LEONOR CARVALHO, make-up assistants MARYAM SOFIA, BERNARDO FERREIRA, production CONCRETE REP, retouching INK RETOUCH, casting MISCHA NOTCUTT at 11CASTING…

hair ALDO EK, make-up ADRIAN GONZALEZ, talents MR ZERO, YELL, WASTED, LEO COLÍN, FRANCO MORALES, CRISTIAN HAZAEL, ARAM RAMÍREZ, WISS ALYPHAT, photographic assistant ALEXIS RAYAS, styling assistant MARK MUTYAMBIZI, hair assistant ANA YARET TORRES, production IN THE PARK PRODUCTIONS, line production EVA DOMÍNGUEZ, casting EN EL PARQUE CASTING MEXICO CITY, MEXICO…

hair ILKER AKYOL at L’ATELIER NYC, make-up FRANKIE BOYD at STREETERS, models CHARLIE NISHIMURA at ELITE, INDIA SAMPSON at NEXT, SERIGNE LAM at MUSE, HAWAH JABBIE at SYSTEM, photographic assistant AMINA GINGOLD, styling assistants TAYLOR KIM, ALI MARINO, make-up assistant SENA MURAHASHI, production RYKER ALLEN at MINI TITLE, casting BERT MARTIROSYAN NEW YORK, USA…

hair OLIVIER SCHAWALDER at BRYANT ARTISTS, make-up MIN KIM at STREETERS, models SIHANA SHALAJ at IMG, CYRIELLE LALANDE at FORD, photographic assistants RÉMI PROCUREUR, ROMAIN BOÉ, styling assistants IOANA IVAN, CHRISTELLE OWONA NISIN, hair assistant DAMIEN LACOUSSADE, make-up assistant NADA BENNANI, production PRODUCING LOVE, production assistants ALICE ALESSANDRO, WENDY TRUONG, casting JULIA LANGE at ARTISTRY PARIS, FRANCE…

# 7 MONCLER FRGMT HIROSHI FUJIWARA moncler.com A A-JANE a-jane.com ACNE STUDIOS acnestudios.com ADRIANA HOT COUTURE adrianahotcouture.com ALESSANDRA RICH alessandrarich.com ALEXANDER MCQUEEN alexandermcqueen.com AMI PARIS amiparis.com ANDREAS KRONTHALER for VIVIENNE WESTWOOD viviennewestwood.com ANDREW SZEWCZYK andrewszewczyk.com ANEST COLLECTIVE anestcollective.cn ANGEL’S FACE angels-face.co.uk ANIYE BY aniyeby.com ANN DEMEULEMEESTER anndemeulemeester.com ANNAKIKI annakiki.com ANNE SOFIE MADSEN annesofiemadsen.com ASAI asaitakeaway.com ASHISH ashish.co.uk ASHLEY WILLIAMS ashleywilliamslondon.com ASSISTIVE TOUCH @assistive_touch AZ FACTORY azfactory.com B BALENCIAGA balenciaga.com BEAUTIFUL PEOPLE beautifulpeoplecollection.com BENNY ANDALLO @bennyandallo BODE bodenewyork.com BOND HARDWARE bond-hardware.com BOTH both.com BOTTEGA VENETA bottegaveneta.com BOTTER botter.world BRIONI brioni.com BURBERRY burberry.com C CALVIN KLEIN calvinklein.com CALZEDONIA calzedonia.com CAMPERLAB camperlab.com CAPEZIO capezioeurope.com CARHARTT WIP carhartt-wip.com CASABLANCA casablancaparis.com CAVA THE COMBO @cavathecombo_ CHANEL chanel.com CHARLES JEFFREY LOVERBOY loverboy.net CHLOÉ chloe.com CHOPOVA LOWENA chopovalowena.com CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN christianlouboutin.com CHRISTIAN WIJNANTS christianwijnants.com CHRISTOPHER KANE christopherkane.com…

Recrafting the limited narratives that exist around Black women in popular culture, Mickalene Thomas slices her way through pervasive images, tropes and cultural touchpoints, reassembling her findings in succinct, earnest narratives that look to a more honest future. The artist, who works mostly in collage and painting, centres her work on her own lived experience, as well as those close to her and the imagined identities and agency of women she will never get to meet. “My mother, as well as my grandmothers and aunts, were such amazing role models,” says Thomas. “My [mum], whom I featured extensively in my earlier work, showed me how to unapologetically love my body.” Ownership over the body is a theme that Thomas returns to again and again in her work across a variety…

❶ Alister Mackie Feb 2000, Bobby Gillespie cover story In February 2000, Primal Scream frontman Bobby Gillespie starred on the cover of Dazed. Shot and styled by longtime collaborators Martina Hoogland Ivanow and Alister Mackie, the shoot was, in Mackie’s own words, a “real homespun affair”. The duo worked on the set together, smashing mirrors to create the backdrop. Mackie also made the shirt Gillespie is pictured in, gathering badges, patches and archive memorabilia to create an army-style patchwork jacket. That same look went on to become the shirt Bobby Gillespie wore on Primal Scream’s XTRMNTR tour. The tour ended in August 2000 at Reading Festival, where Gillespie and Primal Scream went head-to-head with Oasis. “Bob wore my shirt, we hung out backstage with the bands and Courtney Love,” Mackie…

New York The Drunken Canal GUSH Ebony L Haynes Ebony L Haynes – who was last year appointed as a director at David Zwirner’s gallery space, 52 Walker, in New York – believes the art world needed to take a breath. “The past year has afforded more space for experimentation, whether online or in-person,” she says of the soon-to-be-opened space, which will platform the work of POC and marginalised artists. “I think innovative modes of art-making and presenting, and the way in which we critically engage with those ideas, are making their way to the fore.” The venue serves both as a commercial gallery and a fl ashpoint for conceptual and discussion-raising art. It opens its doors this October with A Line, a solo show by Los Angeles-based multidisciplinary artist…

cktrl Cktrl (which stands for “can’t keep to reality”) still makes music on an ancient Windows XP computer he’s had since secondary school. “I began making music when I got a copy of FruityLoops off my bredrin,” says the Lewisham-based, classically trained musician. Cktrl’s computer may be old, but his sound is brand-new, melding freestyle contemporary-classic duets, electronic R&B and murderblack future-pop. Featured in Beyoncé’s landmark musical film and visual album Black Is King, cktrl has also collaborated with designers Virgil Abloh, Bianca Saunders and Nicholas Daley, as well as artist and director Jenn Nkiru. But it’s the bredrin and his hometown that find their way into the spirit of his music and blissed-out singles like “Mazes”, in which synths loop backwards and forwards through time. For many, the musician…

hair YANN TURCHI at BRYANT ARTISTS, make-up HIROMI UEDA at ART + COMMERCE, nails JULIE VILLANOVA at ARTLIST PARIS, models KAYAKO HIGUCHI at SUPREME, AMAR AKWAY and TOPSY at FORD, set design IBBY NJOYA at NEW SCHOOL, photographic assistants CLARA BELLEVILLE, MATTIA MIRANDOLA, styling assistants GLEN MBAN, EMILIE CARLACH, AROUA AMMARI, make-up assistant MIKI MATSUNAGA, digital operator MATTEO MIANI, production STUDIO DEMI, production assistant ADRIAN DOHNA casting MISCHA NOTCUTT at 11CASTING…

In 1999, The Sopranos set a new kind of show in motion, with seasons that were such a labour of love to watch they became a big piece of your life. Tony, Big Pussy, AJ and Carmela all leapt off the screen and found their way into the culture. The series expanded not only the possibilities of what a show can be, but the ways TV can change the internet. Over lockdown, we all binge-watched the show while Italian mob memes, Sopranos fashion pages and longreads about Tony’s depression flooded our feeds. Now, a new prequel, The Many Saints of Newark, explores the legacy of the most loved friendship group in our lives. Enter Michael Gandolfini, who had the task of playing his own father in the film. Heavy? Forget…

make-up HUGO VILLARD at SAINT-GERMAIN, models LUCILE WINTERBERGER, LEO CIAVARELLA, ESTHER VICTORIA, SELLY TALL, SAMIA, KENDRA KITSUNE, styling assistants MEHDI BAKHTI, AROUA AMMARI, production MILES FILMS, casting DOURANE FALL at HT CASTING, special thanks EREGAL MARSEILLE, FRANCE…

hair DANIELLE ROSS, make-up FRANKIE BOYD at STREETERS, models ELIBEIDY DANI MARTINEZ at IMG, SHAHAIDA LYNCH, CARLY JORDAN and ABIGAIL DEFREITAS at CASTING BARBADOS, KEMAR JONES at GADAL MODEL MANAGEMENT INC, JAYSHON, NEIKOBE, COREY, KARL, JUANITA, DANA, TROY, ISHANA, ATARAH, set design DONNA A NADUR, photographic assistant TAREK CASSIM, styling assistants AROUA AMMARI, ANDRA-AMELIA BUHAI, JUNIOR SEALY, on-set production JUNIOR SEALY, assistant production HALEEK MAUL, casting MISCHA NOTCUTT at 11CASTING BRIDGETOWN, BARBADOS…

Performance artist JESS FRANKLAND, styling assistants ISABELLA KAVANAGH, JORDAN DUDDY post-production RAPID EYE, special thanks THIS MUSEUM IS (NOT) OBSOLETE, RAMSGATE AVEBURY, UK…

ATH Kids, Athens A network bringing the world into one sound from Greece “There was no blueprint for us coming up, we had to be the pioneers,” says ATH Kids beatmaker Taj Jamal. “So now we want to lay down the blueprint for those who come after us.” Before ATH Kids, hip hop was the last thing you would associate with Athens. But the crew, founded by rapper Kareem Kalokoh and creative director Valentin Rivera in 2015, is fast helping to establish the city as a new frontier for the genre. The collective, which also comprises DJ Joseph Mouzakitis, rappers Complex Shadow and Majin Cost, and producer Dazedboi, has created a new, cosmopolitan vision of the city, broadcasting its DIY energy to a global audience with bars as strikingly original…

all clothes and accessories worn throughout SAINT LAURENT BY ANTHONY VACCARELLO men’s autumn 2021 “I like how fast the city moves,” says Seven Strong of the Homies Network, a kamikaze crew of street-skaters staking out the sidewalks of NYC. Filmed on the fly using an old camcorder director Kei Tsuruta swiped from his parents, the 30-strong collective’s DIY videos capture the thrill of fast friends hanging out, and riding for the joy of “landing something that you’ve never landed before” talent SEVEN STRONG at NEXT, KEI TSURUTA at RICKY MICHIELS, TENZIN CHE MIYAHIRA at DNA MODELS, TROY GIPSON, AKOBI, QUINN BATLEY, KYLE, EFRON DANZIG, CHRISTIAN, KYOTA UMEKI, photographic assistants NICO KARTEL, NICHOLAS SHAYA, styling assistants ZOEY RADFORD SCOTT, NOAH DELFINER, SEVEN STRONG, production RYKER ALLEN at MINI TITLE, production assistant…

Bad Gal Riri Captain of the Navy Beauty and fashion mogul Or perhaps just Rihanna, period. There seems to be a misunderstanding. Whether one likes it or not, there is, in fact, no such thing as waiting for Rihanna. The overture, even when delivered sotto voce from her biggest fans, is inaccurate. Unwieldy. Despite recurring, matter-of-course grievances, nobody, in truth, should be marking time in this manner. It’s a fantastic delusion that neglects the pop star’s signal. Her many signals. How she administers, with regularity, her own hospitable blend of bewildering beauty, play, seduction, good humour and a superior glow, not to mention a whole regency of intense, generative style. Isn’t it the case that with each new outfit, Rihanna erects a monument, sends out a flare and lights up…

hair SOPHIE JANE ANDERSON at FUTURE REP using L’ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL, make-up BARI KHALIQUE at BRYANT ARTISTS, models KYRA KAUR at STORM, BIBI ISAKO BISALA at SELECT, ALVIN ASANTE SAKYI at YOUTH, HARRY BROWSE at ELITE, BABS at MODELS 1, ROISIN SALMON, LEAH ABRAHAM, GIULIANA ZAMUDIO, DIDDY MOEMEKE, PAUL CLAXTON, set design SAMUEL OVERS at NEW SCHOOL, photographic assistant BARNEY CURRAN, styling assistant CARI LIMA, LINGANI NOAH, hair assistants TYEESHA TAYLOR-SCOTT, CARINNE HURST-NIGHT, make-up assistants ELIZABETH OWEN PERRY, MAEVE MCELHOLM, set design assistant HARRY BEEDLE, movement direction YAGAMOTO at NEW SCHOOL, executive production BOUNDLESS PARIS, on-set production LG STUDIO, casting PIOTR CHAMIER at STREETERS, casting assistant BENEDIKT K HETZ LONDON, UK…

hair ALI PIRZADEH at CLM AGENCY, makeup CHIAO LI HSU using M.A.C, models SIENNA KING at TESS, CHERIF DOUAMBA at PREMIER, MAJOK MANYUAT at SUPA, NYAGUA RUEA at MILK, OTTAWA KWAMI at WILHELMINA, MOMO NDIAYE at SUPA, ADHEL BOL at LINDEN STAUB, KING OWUSU at THE SQUAD, LAWAL BADMUS at PRM, ALIET SARAH at STORM, EMMANUEL ADJAYE at NEXT, TOSIN OLAJIRE at SELECT, RAZAK SALIFOU at SUPA, DENNIS OKWERA at STORM, EDEM, set design IBBY NJOYA at NEW SCHOOL, photographic assistants FELIX TURNBULL-WALTER, TAREK CASSIM, styling assistants FELIX PARADZA, MARK MUTYAMBIZI, MIRKO PEDONE, ANDRA-AMELIA BUHAI, LINGANI NOAH, make-up assistant ALLIE DREW, set design assistant SAM EDYN, production CELESTE DOIG, casting MISCHA NOTCUTT at 11CASTING LONDON, UK…