Table of contents for July/August 2018 in Britain

Hello! As the new editor of BRITAIN, I’m looking forward to a full immersion in the incredible history, heritage and landscapes of our nation. And what better time to start: we may not be able to count on the weather, but there’s something wonderfully uplifting about the British summer. This issue, we’re embracing the great outdoors in the footsteps of two of our literary greats. Explore Emily Brontë’s atmospheric Yorkshire haunts in Brontë Country (p74) or go On the Wordsworth Trail (p14) in the Lake District. If you can tear yourself away from those dreamy landscapes, the Summer Opening of Buckingham Palace is an unmissable event – especially with royal wedding fever still lingering in the air. We trace the evolution of the ultimate royal residence in Buckingham Palace (p32).…

OUTDOORS Glamp it up Who could possibly turn down the opportunity to sleep in a four-poster bed, even if it is in a tent? Warwick Castle is opening six medieval-themed glamping tents, just in time for summer. The Avenue of the Kings tents feature a four-poster bed with that essential replica stained-glass headboard. Modern additions include power points and a full-length mirror so that you can straighten up your corset and gown, or admire your doublet and hose. The new glamping tents are set in a woodland glade by the river, right next to the medieval castle. Add archery, a jester class and a banquet in the medieval dining hall to your stay. www.warwick-castle.com MUSEUMS And the winner is... The Art Fund Museum of the Year is the world’s largest…

Sadly, William Wordsworth never tasted Grasmere’s most famous sweet treat, gingerbread; it was invented in 1854, two years after his death. Its creator, Sarah Nelson, lived in Grasmere, baking for the area’s larger houses, while her husband Wilfred dug graves in St Oswald’s Church (where Wordsworth lies). Her chewy, spiced half-cake-half-biscuit, sold from a tabletop on top of a tree stump outside her front door, was an instant hit. The secret recipe, known to just one person, is still baked daily from the same shop. www.grasmeregingerbread.co.uk…

Saffron Walden mazes You can stroll between the town’s three mazes, from the turf maze on the common to the Italian Renaissance-style hedge maze in Bridge End Garden, via the modern tiled example in the Jubilee Garden. Open year-round. www.visitsaffronwalden.gov.uk/mazes.aspx Hampton Court Palace This world-famous maze has entertained visitors for centuries. Can you beat the average time it takes to reach the centre: 20 minutes? Open year-round. www.hrp.org.uk Hever Castle The castle boasts two mazes set in beautiful gardens. The historic yew maze has a quarter of a mile of pathways, while the water maze is a series of concentric stepping-stone circles set over water, with false steps that shoot jets of water; bring a towel. Main maze open year-round; water maze end of March to October. www.hevercastle.co.uk Glendurgan Garden…

• ‘Warming pans’ became a nickname for Jacobite supporters (from Jacobus, Latin for James) because of the widespread story that James Francis Edward Stuart, later known as the Old Pretender, had been smuggled in a warming pan into the chamber of Mary of Modena after her real baby was stillborn. • Riding at Hampton Court in 1702, King William was thrown from his horse after it stumbled on a molehill, and died from complications following his injuries. Jacobites toasted the ‘little gentleman in black velvet’ (the mole) that had caused their enemy’s downfall.…

The Old Forge This delightful cottage in the Snowdonia National Park is a good base for walking and biking along the old Roman and drovers’ roads. The hospitable owners live next door. www.northwalesholidaycottages.co.uk Cadwgan This beamed cottage with more than 200 years of history has beds in ‘crog lofts’ reached by a ship’s ladder, and views over the sea, islands and Ireland on a clear day. www.northwalesholidaycottages.co.uk Old Thatched Cottage This pretty cottage, its thatched roof now under tin to preserve the rare rush thatch, is set on a working farm, with scenic country walks nearby. www.breconcottages.com Pond Cottage All exposed beams and period charm, this cottage also has a shepherd’s hut in an adjacent meadow: a lovely retreat with views of the Wye Valley. www.breconcottages.com Paxton’s Tower Lodge Preserved…

Most visitors to the Scottish capital of Edinburgh head straight to the Royal Mile, the historic Old Town thoroughfare that slopes a traditional Scottish mile (exceeding the statute mile by 107 yards) all the way from Edinburgh Castle to HM The Queen’s official residence of the Palace of Holyroodhouse. Quite right they are too. Edinburgh Castle, perched on ancient volcanic rock, has stood guard over the city for 900 years and is brimming with tales, from its near destruction on the orders of King of Scots, Robert the Bruce to its role as a garrisoned fortress through the Glorious Revolution and the Jacobite Risings. Meanwhile, the Palace of Holyroodhouse, overlooked by the summit of the extinct volcano of Arthur’s Seat, is the setting for the Ceremony of the Keys each…

Sacred Britannia by Miranda Aldhouse-Green (Thames & Hudson, £19.95) As well as plumbing, the Romans brought their religion to Britain. A riveting account of ancient beliefs. The Du Mauriers: Just as they were by Anne Hall (Unicorn, £25) The surprising family history of the novelist Daphne Du Maurier, starting with a master glassblower. Seaside Hotels by Karen Averby (Amberley Publishing, £8.99) An expansive look at the rise, fall and rebirth of grand coastal resorts. The Oxford Companion to the Brontës by Christine Alexander et al (OUP, £30) A special edition to mark the bicentenary of Emily Bronte’s birth. No, we can’t get enough either. Granny’s Kitchen Cupboard: A Lifetime in Over 100 Objects by John Alexander (Pavilion, £14.99) Nostalgia galore, from post-war chocolate wrappers to children’s toys and vintage pastille…

GETTING THERE The closest station to Grasmere is Windermere, served by the branch rail line from Oxenholme, which has direct services from London Euston (journey time 3-4 hours). The 555 bus stops at Windermere and Grasmere. Alternatively, once a year in late June you can travel to the region in vintage style on the iconic Flying Scotsman steam engine. www.thetrainline.com; www.steamdreams.co.uk WHERE TO STAY “Who does not know the famous Swan?” asked Wordsworth in his poem The Waggoner. Built as a coaching inn in 1650, the Swan is one of the region’s oldest hotels. After a day’s exploring, hikers can enjoy a glass of local ale by the fireside in the cosy bar. www.macdonaldhotels.co.uk WHAT TO DO Wordsworth House Bustling with costumed servants, this handsome Georgian townhouse, once Wordsworth s…

West Wycombe, Buckinghamshire The nearest rail station is High Wycombe (about 30 minutes from London Marylebone). The Hellfire Caves are open daily April to Oct, 11am-5.30pm, and at weekends only the rest of the year. www.hellfirecaves.co.uk The Fleece Inn, Bretforton, Worcestershire Trains run from London Paddington to Evesham (two hours). The pub is open daily, 10am-11pm. www.thefleeceinn.co.uk Lacock, Wiltshire Chippenham station, three miles from the village, is served by direct trains from London Paddington (1 hour 15 minutes). www.nationaltrust.org.uk Chiddingstone, Kent Trains run from London Victoria to Edenbridge (45 minutes). Chiddingstone Castle is open from Easter to Oct, Mon-Weds and Sun, 11am-5pm www.chiddingstonecastle.org.uk…

The enduringly popular traditional Sunday roast aside, British cuisine has – to resoundingly good effect – accepted influences from across its one-time Empire, Europe and the rest of the world. But a quick glance inside any self-respecting British pantry or kitchen cupboard still yields much in the way of history and, indeed, nostalgia. What larder worth its salt does not contain a tin – or its modern-day successor, a squeezy bottle – of Lyle’s Golden Syrup? That green and golden tin, whose lid requires a spoon to winch it off, may appear simply to contain molten sugar, but the sweet stuff has a rich history of its own that dates back to 1881. That was the year that businessman Abram Lyle founded his sugar refinery on the banks of the…

GETTING THERE The island is served by its own airline, with direct flights from a number of UK airports; flights from London Gatwick take around an hour. Condor Ferries run catamarans from Poole, Portsmouth and Weymouth, a journey of just over two hours. www.aurigny.com; www.condorferries.co.uk EAT, DRINK, SLEEP For five-star luxury in the heart of St Peter Port stay at The Old Government House, while Fermain Valley Hotel is set in a lush valley in St Martin, with a path leading directly to the cliffs. The Auberge Restaurant at Jerbourg is the perfect place to recuperate after a long cliff walk, with a locally sourced menu and big windows overlooking the spectacular south coast. www.theoghhotel.com; www.fermainvalley.com; www.theauberge.gg FURTHER INFORMATION www.visitguernsey.com…

GETTING THERE The nearest main railway station is Leeds (just over two hours direct from London King’s Cross), from where there are regular services to Keighley, Bradford and Hebden Bridge. The Keighley Bus Company runs the Brontë Bus, which stops in Howarth. www.keighleybus.co.uk WHERE TO EAT For the full Brontë experience try Branwell Brontë’s local, the Black Bull in Haworth. It offers pub grub with local specialties such as black pudding and Yorkshire pudding. Sit on the outdoor terrace for lovely views over the steep main street and out to the hills beyond. www.blackbullhaworth.com WHERE TO STAY The Devonshire Arms Hotel on the Bolton Abbey Estate is a great place to treat yourself; it has a spa, plus two restaurants and does a delicious afternoon tea. For a stay in…

Having dreamed of visiting the UK since I was a girl, and being an avid reader of BRITAIN magazine for the past 10 years or more, my first trip to England in October last year (aged 62), with a friend and her husband, was a life-changing dream come true, which exceeded all my expectations. A concert at the Royal Albert Hall, the Changing the Guard, visits to the Victoria and Albert Museum, Chatsworth House, Lyme Park, Haddon Hall, Castle Howard and Blenheim Palace, Evensong in St Paul’s Cathedral, Trinity and King’s Colleges in Cambridge and York Minster, staying with friends in Chelmsford and Ashbury, a day in Oxford, the vivid green countryside, the gardens, the villages – so much beauty and history, and so many wonderful experiences. I felt like…

Meet Twizy Tours, the self-drive phenomenon combining the best sights of London with an impressive entertainment experience for locals and visitors alike. Their Driving Miss Markle Tour, allows you to celebrate the Royal union with a tour of Royal magic, romance and make-believe, fit for who else but a Duke and Duchess! To the aristocratic tones of Arthur, Harry’s trusted aide (and tinged with just the right amount of sauciness as the Royals would allow), be guided through the elegant streets of Mayfair and bustling Soho accompanied by entertaining stories and top-tips to those wishing to imagine themselves as the Royal bride, on where to shop, eat and enjoy the very best of London. Twizy’s self-drive tours provide the latest GPS technology integrated into the electric, 2-seater Renault Twizy to…

Meandering down from the forbidding towers and hulking walls of Conwy Castle, built by Edward I as part of his formidable 13th-century Iron Ring of castles around the North Wales coast, visitors step through the town walls to glimpse boats bobbing on the waves below. Just a few steps away is the smallest house in Britain – once owned by a six-foot fisherman, believe it or not; while close by is Plas Mawr, one of the finest Elizabethan town houses in the country. Reminders of the rich and varied history of Wales are everywhere, in a land where mountain peaks tower over coastal paths leading down to aquamarine seas. From mountainous Snowdonia, you can journey west to Anglesey to glimpse puffins, and south to the Llyn Peninsula where seals, dolphins…

For your chance to win this great prize go to www.britain-magazine.com/competitions/walescomp to apply online or fill in the coupon below with the answer to the following question: Q: Which is Britain’s smallest city? a) Wells b) St Davids c) Leeds TERMS AND CONDITIONS Closing date for entries is 12pm GMT 6 September 2018. Prize is available Monday-Thursday, subject to availability, and is to be redeemed by 6 September 2019. Travel not included. Due to its historic nature, Roch Castle is not suitable for guests with walking difficulties. Children must be 12 years or over. For full terms and conditions, go to www.britain-magazine.com/competitions/walescomp…

The 1928 discovery of penicillin was a lightbulb moment for Fleming, but it was some years before it gained worldwide attention Every British schoolchild knows the story. On the morning of 3 September 1928, Alexander Fleming returned to his laboratory after a month-long family holiday. Sorting through some glass culture dishes that had been coated with staphylococcus bacteria, he noticed that a ring of mould had formed around the staphylococcus. Concluding that some substance in the mould was killing off the bacteria, Fleming discovered penicillin: the world’s most powerful antibiotic. Fleming’s family background didn’t present an easy or obvious path to medicine. His father Hugh was a farmer in Ayrshire, Scotland, and Fleming was the seventh child in a family of eight, born on 6 August 1881. Hugh had four…