For a country of such constant and varied innovation, America is largely famous for making things bigger. Skyscrapers, mass transit, SUVs, Michael Bay explosions, half-gallons of single-serving soda. It’s a sort of compulsion, a restless anxiety like standing in a sprawling new house, marveling at the echo and thinking, “Hell, we’ve got to fill it with something.”
Mega-scale has always been our great national export, in terms of both product and philosophy. That makes it, on some level, a matter of taste. Everyone is quite pleased with the mobile phones and personal computers, the rock ’n’ roll, disposable contact lenses and microwave popcorn, but we’re still in the red over fast food, which seems stingy, since it was part of the same moon-shot thinking. Take the Chicken McNugget, a snackable…