Beginner's Guide to Dressmaking

New to dressmaking, or simply in need of a little refresher? You’ve come to the right place! We’ve put together the kind of guide we wish we had when we started out, filled with need-to-know techniques and stylish projects, along with expert tips, tricks and hacks that’ll help you take your sewing to the next level. Plus, don’t forget to download your free PDF dress pattern (p10) to try out your new-found skills! You’ll master everything from cutting out patterns and choosing the right fabric, to inserting zips, sleeves and pockets – and then put it all into practice with 26 simple dressmaking projects. Along the way, we’ll be demystifying jargon, tackling tricky techniques (that aren’t so tricky at all!) and inspiring you to create a whole wardrobe of beautiful handmade…

MACHINE FEET With these five feet in your collection you can tackle most sewing projects. MACHINE TYPES There’s a machine option for every skill level, from beginner to seasoned pro. ELECTRONIC As you’d expect, electronic machines are powered by an electric motor that moves the needle and bobbin (and powers a light). Electronic machines are ideal for beginner sewists – they can be packed with features, but are generally easy to use. COMPUTERISED Computerised machines are suited to more experienced seamstresses or professionals – they have lots of clever stitch functions and a computerised screen, and some give you the option to input your own designs. OVERLOCKERS Overlockers finish seams by overstitching the edge and trimming away excess fabric in one go. These are a great investment, but a machine zigzag (or even pinking shears!) will also do the…

1 Use the same colour of thread in the top and bottom spools for most of your stitching – only use different colours for decorative stitching. 2 Use the same type of thread in the top and bottom spools, as this will result in a more even tension. 3 Always ensure your fabric is flat and smooth, as you will get neater stitching. Pressing before you start is always a good rule. 4 Always work a few stitches on a spare scrap of the same fabric you will be using to make sure the machine tension is correct. Different thread and fabric will need different tensions, so check it whenever you start a new project. If the stitches are loopy or overly tight then you need the change the tension so that the…

Step one Gather your manual and tools. Cleaning tools, such as a small lint brush, screwdriver and oil, often come with your machine. A quality, clean paint brush will also do the job. Tweezers are also useful, as are clean cotton buds. Don’t blow the lint out, as your breath contains moisture which can corrode the parts. 01 Step two Start by cleaning the bobbin area. Turn off and unplug your machine for safety whilst you clean, then remove the needle and the foot. Follow your instruction manual to remove the presser foot and needle plate then lower the feed teeth if your machine has this option. Remove the screw that holds the needle plate in place or lever it off. Clean the feed teeth with the brush and, using an…

YOU WILL NEED Fabric: Dress A: 115cm (45in) width fabric x 2.9m (2¼yds); 140cm (55in) width x 2.5m (2¾yds) for all sizes Dress B: 115cm (45in) width fabric x 2.6m (3yds); 140cm (55in) width x 2.1m (2¼yds) for all sizes Iron-on interfacing: 30x60cm (11x24in), to match fabric weight Invisible zip: 56cm (22in) Matching thread Basic sewing kit FABRIC SUGGESTIONS Light to medium-weight fabrics, preferably with some drape, such as cotton, cotton lawn, rayon, crepe or linen blend. NOTES Use a 1.5cm seam allowance unless otherwise stated. The cutting layout, size chart and finished garment measurements are on page 14. CUTTING OUT First, decide whether you want to make Dress A, the midi dress, or Dress B, the knee-length dress. Next, choose your size using the size chart on page 14, then cut out all of the…

Always measure yourself before you choose a pattern size. The sizing can vary greatly from pattern to pattern, so don’t just assume you’re a particular size. Take all of your measurements, then compare them to the size chart (usually printed on the pattern envelope or on the instructions sheet inside). Measure yourself in your underwear, and preferably in the bra you’ll be wearing underneath your garment as this can alter the measurements slightly. For accuracy, use a fabric tape measure as it’ll curve around your body. You can measure yourself standing in front of a mirror, but for best results ask a friend to help so they can check the tape measure is sitting in the right places. Make sure the tape measure sits snuggly around you, but that it isn’t…