Table of contents for October 2015 in AFAR

RECENTLY I WAS LISTENING TO a talk by Jonathan Tisch, chairman of Loews Hotels, when he mentioned a statistic that really grabbed my attention: Americans leave 429 million vacation days unused every year. I looked into it further. Turns out, the United States is the only developed country not to require employers to provide paid time off, and according to a study by Oxford Economics, Americans are using less vacation time than ever. From 1976 through 2000, Americans used 20.3 vacation days a year. In 2013, we used 16. This has to change. Americans need to take time off, and they need to travel. The purpose of time off is to take a break from your workday routine. To allow yourself to think about other things. To recharge. And travel…

1 THE NEW YORK EDITION BEST IF Food comes first. With its scalloped ceilings and goldleaf bar, the new Edition hotel nods to Fifth Avenue’s gilded age. The real star, however, is its Clocktower restaurant, where London chef Jason Atherton wows with sophisticated tavern food: ox cheek–spiked mac ’n’ cheese and dry-aged steak. From $725. edition hotels.com 2 TOMMIE HUDSON SQUARE BEST IF You miss college. The first Tommie hotel, set to open this winter, is like a dorm gone fabulous. Rooms are multifunctional, an on-site general store carries snacks from indie food merchant Mouth, and the restaurant is cafeteria style— though chef Harold Moore’s beer-can chicken is far from sophomoric. From $249. tommie hotels.com 3 1 HOTEL CENTRAL PARK BEST IF You always reuse hotel towels. The new 1…

Beachcombing is serious business for British designer Timothy Oulton. Along the coastlines of France, his team gathers stray pieces of wood, tossed by the tides and roughened by travels. They then arrange the sticks into a delicate tangle and encase them in smooth, solid acrylic. The resulting mod-but-rustic Spur Driftwood side tables “celebrate the imperfections in the wood and the notion that time makes things more beautiful,” Oulton says. The name was inspired by the spur of a plant, a nectarfilled tube. “There’s the idea that the wood is a living thing. And we’ve preserved it in a natural state.” In other words, it’s a fossilized reminder of a serene landscape for the home.…

DERK RICHARDSON: “The wine bar Le Vin Papillon was my highlight. The meat in their white ham salad was so thinly sliced, it was almost the texture of lettuce. And we had a minerally organic white from the French Alps.” DAVINA BAUM: “I loved the Cul-Sec wine bar, which focuses on natural wines. And at Pullman, I had a trio of burgundies and amazing salumi.” DR: “That surprised me—seeing so many artisancured meats on the menus.” DB: “But not in the Mile End, the old Jewish quarter. That’s where the Montrealstyle bagels are. At St-Viateur Bagel, you can watch them go into the wood-fired oven via a conveyor belt. The most unusual thing we tried was horse carpaccio at Maison Publique.” DR: “It was smoked but not gamy.” DB: “It…

Go for the terrace and elegant small plates—black mullet ceviche, fried chicken with kimchi, mushroom toast—at bafflingly affordable prices. Pascade raises the bar for the kind of crêpes soufflés you’d find in the Averyon region. The menu’s standouts are the umami asparagus maki and the spicy chicken yassa. In the hip 11th arrondissement, this is the quintessential Parisian bistro. Everything on the chalkboard menu is wholly satisfying—but the steak au poivre with fries? Unbelievable.…

WHO Nick English WHERE Mayfair, London THERE ARE PARTS of central London where the hustle and bustle can get you down, but Mayfair is an exception. The main shopping thoroughfares nearby—Piccadilly, Oxford Street—carry big labels and feel very touristy, but the minute you enter Mayfair, you go from being totally rammed to blissfully relieved. It’s not really on the beaten track, not really a tourist destination. For the most part, Mayfair hasn’t changed for centuries. It’s a place where locals work, and if you’re a wealthy Londoner, you hang out and shop and dine here as well. From the Bremont flagship store just off Mount Street, the U.S. embassy is round the corner, and some of the best hotels, including Claridge’s, the Dorchester, the Ritz, and the Connaught, are a…

1 SHARI ELF At Elf’s hideaway gallery, Art Queen, you can explore the World Famous Crochet Museum, buy a silkscreened “What Would Cher Do?” tank top, and wander through her found-object sculptures, such as the military vehicle turned concert stage. sharielf.com 2 ANDREA ZITTEL Her High Desert Test Sites is a combination studio, home, and public workshop that hosts artists from all over the world. Check the calendar for frequent community events or sign up for a tour of the 80 acres, where you’ll explore sculptures and installations, including a shipping container compound. zittel.org 3 BRIAN BOSWORTH A potter and longtime Joshua Tree resident, Bosworth sells his textured, geometricpatterned planters, vases, and mugs at BKB Ceramics, not far from High Desert Test Sites. bkbceramics.com…

THE GORING London 1 GRAND HOTEL TREMEZZO Lake Como, Italy The Grand Hotel Tremezzo has been the summer home for Europe’s jet set since opening in 1910. Over the past five years, the Como-based De Santis family, which has owned the lakefront hotel since 1975, has ushered the grande dame into the modern era by building eight rooftop suites, expanding the spa, and adding a hammam. Marble bathrooms and champagnestocked minibars make the rooms feel fit for aristocrats, but the hotel is far from buttoned up. Guests can splash around in one of three pools, including one that actually floats on the lake. Locals join guests at Saturday beach parties. From $420. grand hoteltremezzo.com 2 HILTON PARIS OPÉRA Paris In January, Hilton debuted its $50 million overhaul of one of…

“OK, ELEANOR,” I SAY, FIGHTING BACK A SNEEZE from the spice stalls and the other smells of Istanbul’s Grand Bazaar, surrounded by men smoking, arranging themselves like birds on a wire while their wives gawk at wedding dresses that seem to have been made of marshmallows. “OK, Eleanor. This is for you. For you, I’m going to bargain. I’m going to haggle. I’m going to buy. I owe you this one.” I’m on a mission. When I was a kid, my mom’s sister, Eleanor, would appear on our doorstep as unexpectedly as a lawn flamingo coming out of a magician’s hat. She’d confetti the air with coins from extinct countries, arm us with Gurkha knives and When I was a kid, my mom’s sister, Eleanor, would appear on our doorstep…

Think of Jessica Antola as a chronicler of the world’s closets. She has photographed everything from Vietnamese street style to the urban runways of her home base, Brooklyn, New York. But with seven trips to Africa under her belt, it’s clear she has a particular love for the fashion of the continent’s many cultures. Her latest visit was a monthlong road trip through West Africa, which introduced her to masked voodoo dancers in Burkina Faso, bejeweled women in Benin, royalty in Ghana—and the idea of fabric as a kind of currency. “I love the traditional resin-printed textiles known as Dutch wax, worn primarily in West Africa,” she says. “I learned on this trip that fabrics from Vlisco—one of the most renowned makers— are so valuable that a customary bridal dowry…

1 THE RIGHT READ Everything about CMYK invites you to linger and read, including the chai its café serves. Browse the glossy volumes on photography, design,and Indian cooking, and try to make one of the weekly readings from such authors as Bishwanath Ghosh. 15–16 Mehar Chand Market 2 TRUNK SHOW Nostalgia rules at Nappa Dori, where designer Gautam Sinha works leather into everything from ikat messenger bags and iPad-size travel organizers (pictured) to sherbet-colored trunks that are almost too pretty to use. 25 Mehar Chand Market 3 LOCAL COLOR Shades of India was one of the first shops to connect contemporary designers with traditional artisans. The bright, cheerful space overflows with nubby gold quilts, teak-accented pillows, beaded handbags, and other accessories and furnishings that allow you to bring a little…

The Sabah colors—cobalt, camel, mint—were the first thing to catch my eye. But it was founder Mickey Ashmore’s refreshingly personal approach that sealed the deal: The shoes are stitched by hand in Gaziantep, Turkey, using a 1,000-year-old shoemaking technique, then are sold at shows around the world that are more like casual house parties. (You can also place an order through sabah.am.) After kicking around in a pair for a few weeks, I can honestly say that I never want to travel in anything else. They go with everything—I tried them with dresses, shorts, and jeans—and are almost slipperlike in their comfort. Most important, they’re leather, which means that a) they’ll form to your foot the more you wear them, and b) they breathe, so you can go sockless without…

Your Home Base Rent an apartment in the central fifth arrondissement. That way you’ll always be close to the Jardin du Luxembourg, a real crowd pleaser with timeless marionette shows, a carousel, and pony rides. The Cure for Museum Fatigue In return for good behavior at the Louvre, promise your kids a morning of splashing, building, and playing TV star at the hands-on La Cité des Enfants. Feed the Beasts Capitalize on the city’s fantastic falafel. Or, for a sit-down meal, find a casual café and pack crayons for the papercovered tables. Fair warning: If you don’t bring a portable high chair, your toddler will wind up in your lap.…

IT WAS THE ART THAT SURPRISED me the most. As I drove the 60 miles from Palm Springs to Wonder Valley, I passed a towering bronze brontosaurus, a stop sign resloganed it’s your decision, and an enormous rusty pinwheel that looked like the abandoned toy of a giant. I had expected to see spiky yuccas and old-timey saloons in the former frontier towns that border Joshua Tree National Park. But the sculpture, mixed with miles of sunbaked sand and hand-lettered welcome home, troops signs—a reminder of my proximity to the country’s largest Marine base—created a kind of surreal Where the hell am I? moment. I was on my way to meet Alison and Jay Carroll, two recent desert imports hosting a release party for their new lifestyle brand, Wonder Valley,…

AFAR TRAVEL ADVISORY COUNCIL The members of the AFAR Travel Advisory Council turn their eyes towards Africa, Asia, and the Middle East this month. A new day begins in Dubai WHETHER YOU ARE HEADED TO DUBAI FOR AFAR EXPERIENCES OR AT ANY OTHER TIME, YOU can take advantage of the fact that it’s home to Emirates, the world’s biggest airline. The carrier’s many flights make it a convenient jumping-of point to Africa, Asia, and the Indian Ocean. This month, AFAR’s Travel Advisors have created exciting multiday itineraries in this fascinating emirate, plus multicountry itineraries that combine a stay in Dubai with another extraordinary destination. Whether you are interested in a safari or the seashore, exploring Petra or Pagan, AFAR’s Travel Advisors will help you travel deeper. AFRICAN ADVENTURES Betty Jo…

1 The most important step is choosing a reputable shop, Sefer says. Research places online and in guidebooks before you arrive. Look for ones that have a long history. In Istanbul, ignore the advice of your hotel concierge and taxi drivers. Everyone will say he has an uncle or a cousin who’s a carpet dealer, according to Sefer, but that’s usually a kickback cover. When you’re walking around, only visit shops that have fastidiously arranged carpet displays outside and organized interiors. 2 When you enter a store, tell the dealer what you’re looking for. Having a size, color, material, or design in mind will help him sift through hundreds—sometimes thousands—of options. As he shows you examples, he should be knowledgeable about where they came from. “Every carpet has a story,”…

WHERE TO GO RIGHT NOW Ringed by peaks, including the 23,000-foot Mount Machhapuchhre, the trekking base of Pokhara, Nepal, is best seen from the sky. Pilots with Frontiers Paragliding fly tandem with guests, taking off from 4,800 feet above sea level to ride upward air currents, the same way birds do. Short trips are packed with adrenaline-pumping maneuvers, while the longest flights can stretch to two hours and take adventurers some 15 miles into the mountains north of the Pokhara Valley. From $82. nepal-paragliding.com…

I RECENTLY MOVED into a new house, and with that came the process of packing, unpacking, and discarding. My biggest discovery? I’m loath to part with objects that I have acquired while traveling. Unlike writer Edward Readicker-Henderson, who ponders the usefulness of souvenirs in “Dream Weavers” (page 86), I actually do buy stuff. Not a lot, but at least one memento per destination, items that refresh my memory of being there. Tidying-up expert Marie Kondo preaches that you should only keep things that bring you joy, and I can honestly say that the things I buy on the road do that: the handbag from Via dei Condotti in Rome, the double ikat wall hanging woven in a village in Bali, modern glassware from Copenhagen, a wooden bird carved by an…

To shoot her fall Clare V. collection, Los Angeles–based bag designer Clare Vivier chose Seoul, South Korea, which is home to some of her biggest fans. “People on the street recognized me and said hello, which never happens in the U.S.,” she says. In between shoots, she found plenty of time to eat bibimbap, climb a mountain, and (of course) shop. KOREAN STREET STYLE “I couldn’t stop photographing the innovative architecture. Sometimes I couldn’t decide whether I liked a crazy exterior or not, but it’s refreshing to see that expression of artistic freedom. The honeycombed Urban Hive, a mixed-use space, reminds me of L.A.’s new Broad Museum [see more on page 78]. Even the stores look like museums. Boon the Shop has a minimalist gray exterior, and inside, the floors…

1 SWATCH ART PEACE HOTEL International artists live for stints of three to six months in this Shanghai hotel. The only thing required of them? They must leave a work behind. From $355. swatch-art-peacehotel.com 2 HOTEL FELLAH Stay in Marrakech’s artsiest hotel and you can hang with creatives, including directors, dancers, poets, and essayists, many of them rising Moroccan talents. From $186. fellah-hotel.com 3 ACE HOTEL NEW YORK Emerging writers, including Chelsea Hodson and Dale Peck, stay and explore a forgotten art form: the letter. They then leave the missives bedside for guests. From $299. acehotel.com/newyork…

TARTE AUX POMMES “Renowned pastry chef Claire Damon of Des Gâteaux et du Pain gets the crust perfectly crisp and the fruit juicy every time.” PARIS BREST “At La Pâtisserie des Rêves, these wheel-shaped treats are sandwiched with a hazelnut cream. Each bite truly explodes with flavor.” ÉCLAIR “L’Éclair de Génie made a genius update on the éclair au chocolat: half the size, half the sugar, and the highest quality chocolate from Grand Cru.” PROFITEROLES And don’t miss Urraca’s own Profiterole Chérie, where the creamor ice cream–filled mounds are made to order in front of you. our pick for where to stay right now: the historic HILTON PARIS OPERA, which just received a $50 million update. Read more on page 62.…

DO There are dozens of hiking options within Joshua Tree, but a ranger favorite is 49 Palms Oasis, a threemile round-trip trek that leads to a true oasis of fan palms and shallow pools. nps.gov/jotr STAY Designer Blake Simpson crafted Mojave Sands over nearly a decade, and his detail-oriented vision is evident everywhere, from the perforated metal fencing to the hand-sculpted black walnut bed frames. Amenities are slim, but what the motel lacks in room service it makes up for in sheer style. (Rooms include typewriters and solid record collections.) From $150. mojavesands atjoshuatree.com DRINK To get to Palms Restaurant, drive to what feels like the end of the earth, then keep going. There you’ll find a sprawling bar and concert venue that’s as quirky as it is secluded. The…

AFAR COLECTION – HOTELS & RESORTS – We love perks as much as you do. Book through the AFAR Collection online and see special offers that could include anything from a complimentary bottle of wine to a discounted rate. Rosewood Mayakoba Riviera Maya, Mexico Casa de las Olas Tulum, Mexico Las Alcobas Mexico City, Mexico Belmond Peru Cusco, Lima, Machu Picchu and the Sacred Valley Galley Bay Resort & Spa St. John’s, Antigua The Reefs Resort and Club Southampton, Bermuda Le Guanahani St. Barthélemy, French West Indies Belle Mont Farm on Kittitian Hill St. Kitts Grace Bay Club Turks and Caicos Dorado Beach, A Ritz-Carlton Reserve Dorado, Puerto Rico Aqua Wellness Resort Tola, Nicaragua Mandarin Oriental, Miami Miami, Florida XV Beacon Boston, Massachusetts Park Hyatt New York New York, New…

BOGOTÁ CAPE TOWN DUBAI HOUSTON L.A. MEXICO CITY SINGAPORE HOUSTON Everything—art included—is bigger in Texas The Rothko Chapel’s 24-foot-high canvases 72 ONE OF THE RICHEST STASHES of art in America is found deep in the heart of Oil Country: The 1.5-mile radius of Houston’s Museum District is home to 19 places to interact with art. And in 2016, several museums, including the Menil Collection, are planning expansions. Perhaps the most transformative experience can be found at the Rothko Chapel. The 14 abstract Mark Rothko paintings that line the walls are monumental—the construction crew actually had to crack the roof open and lower them in by crane—and that’s part of their cathartic appeal. As you’re looking up at a canvas of infinitesimal strokes, one moment, Rothko’s colors appear to be black.…

To capture the photos you see here, AFAR tapped Karen Fedorko Sefer, whose company, Sea Song (orienthandmadecarpets.com), builds customized itineraries to help travelers go deeper in Istanbul and other parts of Turkey. Here are a few of many potential highlights. Check in at the House Hotel Bosporus, a 19th-century mansion that was once the residence of Simon Balian, architect of Dolmabahce and Ciragan Palaces. See Istanbul from a private yacht cruise on the Bosporus, with views of shoreline villages and Ottoman summer palaces. Visit the Macar Feyzullah Pasa Kosku mansion, for a lunch and tour at the home of an Ottoman art expert, interior designer Serdar Gulgan. Spend a private evening in the Hagia Sophia, the former Greek Orthodox cathedral and imperial mosque. Join modern art expert Isabella Icoz on…